here to follow the topic
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I have now decided that I need to overhaul the front axle as it
has been dripping oil for a while. That is a lot of work, so I will
make it worth my labour and go all out :mrgreen:
So, planned are the following to be done over the next month:
1 Remove the front axle and completely strip it and rebuild it.
Diff is OK so no need to remove. DONE
2 Repair spring saddle perches as per Louis method DONE
3 Re-drill spring saddle perches to accomodate 35mm axle move forward
4 Fit adjustable torque rod DONE
5 Shorten steering drag link DONE
6 Extend front prop shaft DONE
7 Sandblast and respray rims DONE
8 Fit Kumho 33x12.5x15 KL71 MT's DONE
9 50mm bodylift if necessary
As a start I am gathering all the bits and pieces I will need.
Have cleaned my spare front propshaft ready to go to the propshaft
guys once I know how much longer it will have to be.
Took my spare torque rod and cut it in half. Removed 40mm and then
threaded it with left and right thread. Threaded a matching piece
of hex bar and had everything silver cadmium plated to stop corrosion.
Made up a set of 50mm x 50mm OD aluminium body spacers
in case I need them, or feel the need to lift the body anyway :D
. Had them anodised black to stop them corroding.
I have ordered all the axle seal kits etc from Toyota
on Monday, so should get them tomorrow. Worked out to about R 2050
with the 15% discount I haggled for. I don't really have the time
or want to source pirate kits from elsewhere for about a R400 saving
overall. I only want to do the axle once.
Ordered a set of Kumho KL71 MT's (R2020 ea fitted) and will have
them fitted to once I have painted the rims which are currently
in being beadblasted and primed. Will spray them at home with Acryline
Got the parts from Toyota that I ordered today for the axle overhaul
Today I started stripping the front axle out and finished this
afternoon. About 5 hours work on your own.
Got some scrap racking today and modified it to make
an axle stand to make it easy to work on the axle.
Fits perfectly :)
Checked the spring perches quickly and you can see
how warped they are. Will have to "Louis" them.
Cut the draglink today and shortened it by 35mm. Rewelded
and machined, ready to go.
Today I started to strip the front axle.
Here is the front hub before starting dis-assembly
First I removed the brake disk caliper (two bolts at the rear inner
Then I removed the bolts holding the free wheel locking hub dial
in place and removed the dial.
Locate the C shaped snap ring on the end of the sideshaft and remove
Then I removed the nuts and washers from the locking hub body.
This leaves you with the cone washers which you then need to remove.
After reading the many methods on offer via the internet to remove
the cone washers, the method I found worked best was to spray them
with penetrating oil, then using a brass drift and a hammer to hit
the studs with a sharp smack one at a time. Going in a circular
pattern from one stud to another. After about 5 to 10 smacks per
stud, the cone washers started popping loose and could then be slid
off the studs.
Now you slide the hub body off.
Now remove the front bearing lock nut using your geyser spanner,
then bend up the locking washer tabs, remove it, and then undo the
bearing adjusting lock nut. Now you grab the disk brake rotor with
both hands and slide it off the stub spindle. Be prepared to catch
all the oil and grease mixture that may pour out if your axle has
leaked as badly as mine. I had nice smelly bearing grease and diff
With the disk off, you see this
Now I removed the knuckle spindle mounting bolts
and the dust seal and brake disk dust cover
Using a brass drift, I then tapped the knuckle spindle
off the steering knuckle
Once this is off you can then remove the complete
birfield joint and sideshaft. Position one flat part of the outer
shaft upward and pull out the birfield joint and sideshaft. Again,
be ready to catch any leaking grease and oil slop.
Once this is out, then remove the top 4 nuts that
hold the swivel bearing cap in place. This also has 4 cone washers.
Tap out the bearing cap from the steering swivel hub housing.
Now remove the bottom bearing cap nuts, bearing cap
and shims. Keep the specific shims together with the same bearing
cap and bearings.
Undo the small bolts on the back of the swivel hub
housing and remove the metal support plates, felt and rubber gaskets.
Now you can remove the swivel hub from the axle. This is one really
messy, dirty, crappy job
Here is the axle end with everything removed and wiped
With all that messy work done, I did the other side.
Still being a sucker for more punishment, I stripped and cleaned
the freewheel hubs
and cleaned and laid out the wheel bearings which
I will be replacing
For info, the original wheel bearings are as follows:
Front inner wheel bearing: JLM 104948-N
Front inner wheel bearing outer race: JLM 104910-N
Front outer wheel bearing: LM 102949
Front outer wheel bearing outer race: LM 102910
Swivel hub bearings are:
Koyo TR 0305A (did not remove the bearing outer race, so can't
see the part number)
All bearings and races looked in excellent condition after 238
000 km. Not a mark
I wanted to separate the brake disks from the hub to fit the
new disks, but after removing the two retaining bolts I see that
you also have to press out the wheel nut studs as these also hold
the disk to the hub. Will have to get hold of a press, as I couldn't
tap them out with a brass drift and hammer :(
I would hate to know what Toyota would charge you just to replace
your disks :shock: . After looking at the new disks and seeing
that the minimum thickness stamped on them reads 11.4mm, I checked
my disks and was shocked. One was 7mm thick, and the other 9mm.
The previous owners must have skimmed them on the vehicle well
beyond the allowable minimum thickness.
Gave the wheel studs a good spray last night and
again this morning with penetrating oil. After reading all the
potential stud removal methods on the internet, it seems that
the common concensus is to hit them out with a hammer
So I decided to "carefully" try again. Placed a spare
wheel nut on the stud like so
then whack it like so with a piece of square bar and a hammer
About 5 very firm whacks per stud did the trick. Once you've
got one out, you feel a bit better about the technique. With the
studs removed (and the two retaining bolts) I tapped the bearing
hub from the brake disk.
I needed to properly clean the axle outside in the
garden, but it is too heavy for one person to carry, so I removed
the diff pumpkin (good to check for dirt in the axle too) to lighten
With that out I checked the inside of the axle.
Very clean indeed, with no dirt visible. With the diff pumpkin
removed, the axle can easily be carried around. I estimate is
weighs around 25kg.
With the axle moved outside for cleaning, I carried
on washing all the small parts with engine cleaner. A real "#%!!!!"
Some 4 hours later and .... (and no, I didn't wash
them in the pool)
OK, so last update before I go to bed
Hope Pietpetoors doesn't need to buy a new server for all the
Decided to end the evening off by fitting the new brake disks.
SWAMBO said I should consider putting my bed in the garage
I cleaned up the hub/disk mating faces with a wire brush on my
electric drill, then painted the exposed metal casting pieces
with rust converter.
Applied a layer of Copperslip/Neverseize copper compound to the
Then fitted the disk to the hub with the two retaining bolts.
I will fit the wheel studs later.
I then took the time to inspect the recently cleaned
brake calipers. Will definitely have to strip them and put in
a new seal kit as the dust seals are shot.
The last job tonight was to wash out and soak the
Birfield / CV joints in paraffin. Will strip them next week and
check the condition.
I spent last night cleaning, prepping and spraying
some parts. Tonight I tackled the Birfield CV joints. The sideshaft
fits into the inner race of the Birfield joint and is held in
place by two snap rings. The outer one you can see, but the inner
one is inside the joint. This one has to be broken :shock: to
get the sideshaft out of the joint.
I tried the brass drift with hammer method from the manual, but
got nowhere fast. Method two, which worked, I got from a website
somewhere. Place a piece of pipe in the vice. The inner diameter
of the pipe should be just bigger than the sideshaft outer diameter.
Now, take the Birfield joint and sideshaft assembly and place
the sideshaft in the pipe. Lift it up in the air as high as you
can, then let it go. The sideshaft drops into the pipe, but the
Birfield inner race is too big to go in, and therefore stops suddenly.
This shock breaks the inner snap ring (see photo below) and the
sideshaft comes out. This took several attempts, but worked.
Below is the sideshaft separated from the Birfield CV joint,
with the broken inner snap ring shown.
Shaft inner snap ring: 43411B 90520-28036
Shaft outer snap ring: 43411C 90520-27091 (broken one)
Wih the sideshaft out, you can now remove the balls
and the inner and outer races.
Here is the whole assembly in pieces, after some
initial cleaning. Off to the dealer tomorrow to get new snaprings
If you had to break the inner snap-ring to get it apart, how are
you going to fit the new one if you assemble using your steps
in reverse. There has to be a way to get them in and out without
breaking. Surely there is a 'channel' to one side of the outer
casing to allow enough 'tilt' to slip the balls out?
Andy, you do have to break the snap ring to get it out. It is
a "sacrificial part", made to break. To get the sideshaft
back into the inner race, you put the snapring on the end of the
sideshaft, then compress it into its groove as if you were compressing
a piston ring to fit a piston into the block. Slide the sideshaft
end through the inner race. As soon as the shaft end comes out
the other side of the race, the the snap ring pops out and expands,
preventing the sideshaft from pulling out again. I'll take some
pics when I do it.
Got my new snap rings today from Toyota. R 16 ea.
Got all the new bearings from BMG (Bearing Man) today too.
Spent some time this evening re-assembling the locking hubs.
I must say, stripping them was a good way to learn how they work,
and they are not that complicated to re-assemble (provided you
have a good manual)
Tomorrow I will try to panel beat the spring perches/saddles
back to factory spec :mrgreen: Just got to figure out the best
way to do it.
Today was caliper overhaul day :eh:
On closer inspection of the front brake calipers I found that
the one caliper was missing all the piston dust seals and the
dust seals on the other caliper were totally torn and trashed.
Both calipers are missing the anti-rattle springs :evil: Will
have to get some from the dealer, or if someone can post a nice
pic, I'll bend my own :) Ah, just found JohanM's post with a pic
will try bend my own next week.
First I stripped the calipers. I used compressed air as per the
manual to get the first piston out. It came out with a pop and
I ended up covered in brake fluid. This method is not really advisable
as it is difficult to control, and once one piston is out, you
cannot really seal the cylinder bore to allow the use of compressed
air on the others. I ended up using a pair of waterpump pliers
on the front lip and twisting them out carefully. Took a while.
The pistons and were in quite good condition, with only minimal
rust pitting in some places near to top of the piston body. Poilished
all the pistons up with 1200 grit waterpaper and washed them.
Then painted rust converter on the rusty bits exposed to the outside
of the caliper.
The internal cylinder bores were in perfect condition.
After cleaning everything, I fitted the new seal kit. Coated
everything with Red Rubber Grease. Assembly was a lot quicker
I then degreased the calipers and painted them black with etch
primer /Jetmaster black paint and fitted the new Ferodo pads.
Still having a bit of energy, I reassembled the freewheel locking
hubs. I needed the help of SWAMBO to get the one snap ring back
that hold the freewheel hub body to the inner hub. She was not
impressed having to hold "dirty greasy" things as she
called them. I don't know what she was on about, they were sparkly
clean with new, fresh LM grease
Put the cover and dial on to the body and checked
them for correct engaging and dis-engaging. All OK!
Now I need to start the spring perch/saddle correction
work. I have looked at this from all angles, and cannot come up
with the best method to re-shape the saddles. I put the axle in
the vice earlier, and then gave the saddles a few whacks with
my square bar and hammer, but nothing moved. Tried "squashing"
the saddle sides upright again in the vice, but no joy. Will have
to think about this some more.
So I went and read Louis's post ( front
axle saddle correction ) again. I had it backwards :wth: .
With Louis's method, you need to hammer the middle high point
down, not the bent lower ends up (which made logical sence to
me as they are the parts that bend?). Anyway I'll go off now and
hammer the Cr@p out of the saddles
Found an acceptable way of holding the axle in the
vice and supporting the saddle on a piece of steel. Marked the
high points and then smacked them down with my big hammer
When you beat the saddles flat with the hammer you
can get the middle, unsupported area flat quite easily. The sides
however need to have the high points massaged with an angle grinder,
then dressed with a fine metal file to get the sides flat.
Once that was done I gave the axle a quick sand
with a flapper wheel in the drill to remove any loose paint and
surface rust, then painted the axle with rust converter. I then
marked out the position of the new holes I needed to drill to
allow for the axle to be moved 35mm forward.
Gave the whole axle a quick coat of black etch primer
to neaten it up.
Using the sheet of Flexoid gasket paper, I used
the other gasket (Toyota was out of stock of this one and couldn't
supply for a month) as a template, and cut it out with a razor
blade knife. Fitted it to the spindle and trimmed to the correct
shape. Then I used a hole punch and a block of wood to punch the
required 10mm holes.
Here are the two completed gaskets.
I made a quick drawing of the tool I want to make
to use when fitting the sideshaft oil seals to the axle. It is
reasonably difficult to ensure that the oil seals are driven in
squarely as you have to work inside the ball end of the axle,
so this tool will make it easier. Will get the tool made tomorrow.
Last night I re-inforced the spring saddles with
steel flat bar. For my needs, the sizes required were as follows:
112 x 40 x 10mm Steel flat bar (2 pieces)
75 x 40 x 10mm Steel flat bar (2 pieces)
I then welded in the flat bars as below pics, then painted everything
with black etch primer.
**EDIT today on fitting day. I screwed up here.
I made the re-inforcement flat bar wider than the spring saddle.
Definitely not thinking. Had to cut the extra width off with an
angle grinder so the U-Bolts could be fitted. I suppose I am allowed
Once the saddle re-inforcements were done, I turned
to replacing the studs in the axle that hold the diff pumpkin
in place. The old ones were rusted and some nuts were seized on.
I first cleaned the gasket mating face, then installed the new
studs, using Loctite retaining compound.
With the studs replaced, I put the diff pumpkin
in the vice, and cleaned the gasket mating face. On close inspection
of the diff, I found the one bearing retaining bolt head and a
part of the backlash adjuster were rusted, so I had to clean them
up. This is why it is important to engage the front locking hubs
at least once a month and go for a drive to allow the diff to
turn in the diff oil and keep it coated in oil (Which I obviously
didn't do often enough )
I then had to make a gasket out of Loctite Ultra
Grey silicone, as the paper gasket I bought from Toyota did not
The diff was then installed with new washers, spring washers
and nuts, using Loctite thread locker.
I got my oil seal inserting tool made today
The new oil seal fits nice and snuggly on the tool,
ready for insertion.
Here is the tool being used to install the oil seal
nice and squarely in place. You don't need a tool like this, but
it made the job super easy.
Here is the tool being used to install the oil seal
nice and squarely in place. You don't need a tool like this, but
it made the job super easy.
I coated the oil seal inner face with red rubber grease.
Next job was to install the swivel hub bearing races.
I cleaned the recesses and then put on Loctite medium strength thread
locker to make sure they stay in place.
The bearing races were in the mean time in my freezer getting nice
and cold to shrink them a bit and make fitting easier. I drove in
the races with a hammer and a larger round piece of brass bar.
I then placed the new swivel hub rear oil seal kit
over the axle ball end. It goes on in the order of felt ring, then
rubber ring, then steel ring.
Last job for tonight was to put the new wheel bearings
into the hubs.
I used the old bearing race to drive the new inner wheel bearing
race into the hub. Worked great.
I then filled the hub cavity between the inner and outer bearings
with Castrol WB grease, and greased the inner wheel bearing and
The inner wheel bearing oil seal was then installed.
Again I used the old wheel bearing race as a tool to evenly drive
in the new seal.
I then turned the hub over and installed the outer
wheel bearing and race.
Have just been accused of being anti-social by SWAMBO,
so had better go pay some attention
I did invite her to join me in the garage, but she declined for
So, Wednesday night I started to assemble the swivel
hubs. First I cleaned up all the gasket faces so they were clean
and shiny. Then I greased to swivel hub bearings with Castrol MS
grease and installed them on the axle.
I then placed the swivel hub in position and pressed
the top and bottom bearing caps with their respective shims into
place. Put copper grease on the cone washers (split dowels) and
tightened the nuts up.
I then fitted the swivel hub rear oil seal assembly (metal ring,
rubber gasket and felt seal) and checked the bearing drag with a
fish scale according to the workshop manual.
With that done I re-assembled the Birfield / CV joint
race cages and balls and greased them up with MS grease. To install
the sideshaft into the cage you need to place the Birfiled joint
in the vice, then place the sideshaft end into the inner race until
it contacts the first thin metal snap ring. You then need to compress
the first snap ring (shown below) and tap the sideshaft into the
inner race. Believe me, for this you need two people. Luckily for
me, my dad happened to ring my doorbell at this point. Unlucky for
him, he was about to get dirty
With the Birfield joints and sideshafts assembled,
I greased the axle oil seals and sideshaft inner ends with a generous
layer of Red Rubber grease, then slid the assembly into the axle
tube. Remember the Birfiled joint housing "flats" must
be at the top and bottom to get the joint into the axle properly.
Now came the messy part ! Packing the swivel hub housing
with MS grease. Pack with grease to 75% of the volume of the swivel
I lot of cleaning followed (mainly of myself ). I
then fitted the gasket I made earlier to the axle spindle shaft
which bolts to the swivel hub. I used a bit of gasket shellac on
the paper gasket.
I then placed the spindle onto the hub and tapped
it into position with a nylon hammer.
Next to go on is the brake disk dust shield. As this
is fitted to the spindle face without a gasket, I put a thin coating
of copper grease on the mating faces.
The paper gasket and dust seal go on next. Once these
are on, the whole assembly can be bolted together.
I then put a layer of wheel
bearing grease on the dust seal lip, and onto the spindle shaft where
the inner wheel bearing seal face runs. The wheel bearing hub assembly
is then slid onto the spindle and into position.
Be careful not to let the driveshaft stub push the outer wheel bearing
out when you slide the assembly on. Besides dropping the bearing on
the floor in the muck, it may land on your toes
Now you can insert the thrust washer, followed by
the wheel bearing adjusting nut. Here a geyser element spanner works
well to tighten the nut. First tighten it quite tight, then turn
the hub in the forward direction to make sure the bearings have
seated properly. Now you loosen it a bit and then use a fish scale
to measure the seal drag, the retighten and set the bearing preload
as per the workshop manual.
As the bearing preload is now set, you fit the locking
tab washer, the the wheel bearing lock nut and tighten it. Re-check
the bearing preload with the fish scale, then bend over the tabs
on the lock washer.
After cleaning the mating faces, fit the freewheel hub body gasket,
and fit the freewheel hub. I put copper grease on the cone washers
again and then tightened everything up.
In the photo above, you see a bolt sticking out of the driveshaft
end. I used this to pull the driveshaft out a bit so the snap ring
groove is exposed. The shaft stub snap ring is now fitted.
Next to go on is the freewheel hub dial face and gasket.
I coated all the sliding parts with a bit of MS grease then assembled
the dial to the hub body. I replaced all the old mounting bolts
which were a bit damaged and worn with stainless steel Allen cap
bolts and stainless washers.
Today I got home at 16h15 and went straight to the
garage, eager to finish this axle after two weeks of work. It looks
like this overhaul job took about 60 hours of labour to do it properly
Anyway, all I had to fit were the brake calipers,
and give the axle a quick touch up with some black etch paint.
Here are the calipers fitted with the new pads, and the anti rattle
springs which I found on my spare front axle.
And ....... ALL DONE !!!
I fitted the wheels, and lowered the axle down to
the floor, ready for installation tomorrow afternoon.
This was a big job. Not that difficult at all, but
time consuming. I learnt a lot about the working and assembly of
the front axle though. Quite a bit of fun, but I won't do it in
a hurry again, or for anybody else
Here are the costs so far for the axle overhaul portion of the
project. I've included all the part numbers I could of the spares
here to download the costs spread sheet
Did not get much done until we got home after lunch. I cleaned
up the U-Bolts and axle / spring clamps and then marked out and
re-drilled the holes in the bumpstops. The holes must be moved
35mm back to allow for the nut of the bolt that holeds the leaf
spring pack together. Here is the bumpstop mounted with the leafspring
pack nut showing through the new relocated hole.
My mate arrived later and so I roped him into helping me fit
the front axle in position.
Once it was in and lined up, I fastened the U-Bolts then lowered
the Lux onto its wheels and removed the tressels it was supported
on. Did a final position check then tightened everything up.
With all that done, I was itching to see what the new 33"
MT's would look like, so I fitted one
Looks pretty darn good
This morning I started to reconnect all the bits
and pieces to the axle.
I started by re-installing the shocks to their lower mounting
points on the axle. Because the axle is now 35mm further forward,
I needed to bend the lower mounting brackets at a slight angle
to accomodate the new angle of the shocks.
Next I refitted the shortened drag link. Went on
OK, but I need to check the clearance between it and the rear
U-Bolt to make sure it is still OK after the mod, as it will now
run at a slightly steeper angle.
I then moved on to reconnecting the brake lines,
and I then bled the entire system and flushed it out with new
brake fluid to all the wheels and the load proportioning valve.
While I was at it I also replaced the clutch fluid and bled it
I also re-filled the front diff with new oil (Castrol
EPX 80W90 GL-5) and then drained and refilled the rear diff too.
Then for the moment of truth. Would my home designed
adjustable torque rod work ?
Well, it fitted first time :thumbup: Made some small adjustments
to the length and then tightened the bolts and fasted the lock
With all that done, I fitted the rest of the wheels
with the remaining 33" tyres, and here's the result.
I then temporarily installed the front propshaft
so I could measure the exact length I need to lengthen it. It
worked out that I need to make it 45mm longer. 35mm for the axle
move + 10mm for the extra height from the OME springs.
With all that done, I called it a day. Some time next week I
will take the propshaft in to have it done.
So, almost there ! I will drive the Lux a bit first, before I
see wether the body lift will be necessary, but from what I can
see, the front edge of the front tyres are possibly going to snag
on the rear of the front bumper plastic corner during maximum
I went and had the propshaft made longer by 45mm today. They
cut the old tube off and then welded in a new longer tube, balanced
it, greased it and painted it. All in one and a half hours, and
only R 250 :D
At this point, I must say I can really recommend Vasco at PE
Propshafts. Really customer oriented and fussy about a quality
job. I even got a cup of tea while I waited (and watched what
they were doing in the workshop :mrgreen: )
Here is the modified propshaft being balanced
Here is the modified front propshaft next to the
Since it looked a bit bare, I found a place for
my left over forum sticker
I then cleaned up all the flange mating faces, wiped
them with a small amount of copper grease and fitted the front
propshaft, and here's the result
I took the Lux for a quick spin around the neighbourhood
to check everything still works :think:
No problems that I could see, hear or feel, but... I parked the
Lux half on the pavement to articulate the front axle and check
the draglink to u-bolt clearance, and the draglink just touches
the u-bolt when the drivers side suspension is hanging down. I was
not fully at the suspension downward travel limit either, so I can
see this being a problem.
Anyway, here is the long awaited final result