Bedrading vir 'n AMP meter

[Dorslandtrekker]

Dagsê Maats,
Ek het 'n 1995 Isuzu 280 wat met dubbel battery stelsel toegerus is. Die Isuzu het wel 'n VOLT meter maar nie 'n AMP meter nie. Nou is dit baie moeilik om te bepaal hoeveel die Alternator laai. Kan iemand vir my 'n diagram teken van hoe om 'n AMP meter op die Alternator te koppel? As ek reg gekyk het is daar twee drade vanaf die Alternator, die een is 'n dikkerige wit draad wat na die Fuse box gaan en vermoedelik die battery laai. Die ander een is 'n dunner draad en gaan in die harnas in om nugter weet waar te gaan. Ek vermoed dit voer die VOLT meter en die Alternator liggie op die paneel bord. Sou ek 'n AMP meter in lyn met die draad koppel wat gaan gebeur? Ek weet as die rook trek is daar fout!!!!!

Hoop die slim manne kan help.

Groetnis.

Frik.

[Polarbear2008]

Hi Frik

Sover ek weet word AMPS altyd "inlyn" gemeet, en nie "oor" die punte soos die Volts van jou battery nie. Ek hoop dit help.

Ek het die op die net gekry: http://www.houlihane.co.uk/amps.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

(sien ook die aangehegte diagram)

Wiring for Ammeter or Voltmeter
A short description of how to wire in an ammeter or voltmeterfor your car.

The ammeter shows direction and rate of current to and from thebattery. Under normal conditions, the meter should show a (small) charge. This will be higher after starting, but probably never more than 10A, and often about 1A. If you see a discharge reading (other than maybe at tickover) you're running on borrowed time.

The voltmeter also indicates whether the battery is being charged. A reading of ~12V indicates that there is no current flowing into or out of the battery. Less than 12V indicates discharge (typically 8V when cranking the starter) and 13-14V is a healthy charging voltage. More than 15V when charging indicates a faulty regulator on the alternator.

A voltmeter actually shows more information than the ammeter, and is also safer to wire insince it takes no current and this allows the use of a small (1A or less) fuse. The ammeter needs to take the full normal load. This is 30A or so for a Seven, but add a few extra lights etc. andit could be more.

[legend35]

Daai maak ook vir my heeltemal sin.

[Dorslandtrekker]

Dankie Theunis, ek sal dit probeer.

[Polarbear2008]

Groot plesier Frik!

Laat weet gerus hou dinge uitwerk! En moenie die fotos vergeet nie!

[Family_Dog]

Remember you're going to need a centre-biased Ammeter... something along the lines of: -60 -30 - 0 +30 +60, because the Ammeter will indicate flow into and out of the battery, i.e. either charge or discharge.


-F_D

[3RZ]

In theory the current flows throught the ammeter but in practice the total current flows through a very low resistance shunt in series with the source with a specific resistance, the current is them measured as a ratio of the true current as the gauge is in parallel with the shunt. The "ammeter" is in actual fact a voltmeter that measures the voltage drop over the shunt with the display calibrated to display this ratio in amps. The higher the current the higher the voltage drop over the shunt. The ammeters you buy at Midas and the go fast shops will never be able to handle the true current flowing through them, just have a look at the wiring of the ammeter.

Simplified diagram:

shunt_ammeter_wiring-300x139.jpg (7.96 KiB) Viewed 1958 times

[Bushwacker]

Theunis, het jy gesien wat staan geskryf onder daai prenkie:-
"If you burn out your wiring loom, please print out this web-page and tear it up into little pieces."

[cprinsloo]

In theory the current flows throught the ammeter but in practice the total current flows through a very low resistance shunt in series with the source with a specific resistance, the current is them measured as a ratio of the true current as the gauge is in parallel with the shunt. The "ammeter" is in actual fact a voltmeter that measures the voltage drop over the shunt with the display calibrated to display this ratio in amps. The higher the current the higher the voltage drop over the shunt. The ammeters you buy at Midas and the go fast shops will never be able to handle the true current flowing through them, just have a look at the wiring of the ammeter.

Simplified diagram:

shunt_ammeter_wiring-300x139.jpg

2 shunt resistors from rectifier.co.za
2 DPDT switches
some lugs
some thin wire
El Cheapo DMM
soldering iron

then you have a monitor for both batteries amps and volts.

[Dorslandtrekker]

Dankie Eric en Willem.

Chris, ek is nie mooi by jou nie. Waar kry ek die komponente soos die shunt goeters en hoe bedraad ek die storie? Jammer man, ek is vroeg uit die skool gesit weens honger pyne en het nie veel geleer nie. 'n Diagram sal welkom wees.
Groetnis.
Frik

[cprinsloo]

Frik,

Hier is 'n link:

http://www.hilux4x4.co.za/dual_battery/index.php" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Shunt weerstande kan jy kry by http://www.rectifier.co.za" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

O ja, jy kort dumpy insulators ook, 2 per shunt.

DPDT: double pole double throw toggle swith, jy gebruik hulle as selector switches

Jy kan alles by 'n elektriese handelaar kry, behalwe die shunt weerstande.

Laat weet as jy wil deurdruk en jy soek nog info/hulp. Miskien bietjie duur en bietjie moeite, maar as dit eers in is het jy altyd die regte info oor jou batterye.

Cheers,
C

[3RZ]

Jislaaik Chris daai enjin ruim van jou is besig, ek sien jy hou net so baie van gadgets soos ek

Baie goeie idee met die DMM.

[Dorslandtrekker]

Dankie Chris, dit is een lekker stelsel. Die circuit breakers, is dit gewone huishoudelike 230 volt breakers of 12 volt eenhede soos wat in sommige ou karavane gebruik word?

[cprinsloo]

Dankie Chris, dit is een lekker stelsel. Die circuit breakers, is dit gewone huishoudelike 230 volt breakers of 12 volt eenhede soos wat in sommige ou karavane gebruik word?

Myne iss 230 v, maar 12 v sal ook werk. Vir ons toepassings is volts nie vreeslik belangrik nie, wel die amps. 'n "230 v" breaker sal veiliger wees (sal nie so maklik ontplof soos 'n "12v" breaker nie)

Cheers,

C