Bester wrote:Some nice ideas here, I'm also redoing my system as the NL solenoid is not nearly adequate for charging the two extra batteries I have. I believe a dc to dc charger would improve the charging, so I'm looking at the 30A HCDP or the CTek 250 - both allowing solar input. Anyone with experience on these, which is best option?
The spontaneous answer would be : TWO extra batteries, thus get the extra charge capacity of the 30A HCDP unit.
Looking a bit deeper there may be other things to consider - -
30A HCDP :
R3225 -
http://www.4x4direct.co.za/dc-to-dc-cha ... &results=4" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Excellent unit, auto switches between alternator and pv. BUT, needs a clean environment - NO water allowed !! Try to avoid excessive dust as it has a circulating fan and will draw the dust into the unit. Reasonably bulky unit, and remember it needs clear space around it for the ventilation fan to work.
Has been the unit of choice in trailers and caravans for many years - until the power panel models were launched.
Ctek250S :
R5500 -
http://www.4x4direct.co.za/dc-to-dc-cha ... &results=6" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
I LOVE this little unit !! It has given me excellent service. it is dust and splash proof. Small compact construction. BUT at only 20A charge rate it was actually built to handle one battery at the back .... and the price is not so nice ....
THIS is what I would recommend for this application -
HCDP Power Panel Mark4 (with OUT the inverter)
R 5 405 -
http://www.4x4direct.co.za/dc-to-dc-cha ... &results=6" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
It now actually costs LESS than the Ctek, AND does so much more !!!
You bring your two wires from the front, plug it into the HCDP
PV panels has an input
Even a 220V input for campsites with power - also includes a 220-to-12V battery charger
Light switch with output points
Pump switch with output points
Fridge switch with output points
Volt and Amp meter included
no need for any solenoids ...
You can see why this is now the standard in almost all 4x4 trailers and campers.
its weak points:
- not splash proof
- bulky, BUT way smaller than all the components it replace !!
- it only charges the batteries at 12A ..., BUT it uses the bypass technology, so the battery gets the FULL 12A to charge while you drive, your alternator driving the fridges directly for this time. Thus actually not too bad, especially as you go this route because you DO have solar.
Bester there is also a THIRD option ....
HCDP 12A
R 1675 -
http://www.4x4direct.co.za/dc-to-dc-cha ... &results=6" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
SPLIT your circuits ...
The one fridge and some lights on one battery, with its own HCDP 12A unit, even with its own PV panel ...
Second circuit for the other fridge, water pump, etc, again with its own HCDP 12A unit, with its own pv panel
This will cost LESS than the Power Panel or the Ctek, but the same as the 30A unit. It DOES give you total flexibility !!!!
Sarel of Blinkgat products have been using this layout in his Amarok for about 75 000km through many SADC countries. And during the load shedding he ran his house of these batteries when needed.
). I needed a new battery box .... got three of them but all are too short, so I set about making one from some old material lying about. The only things I had to buy were the battery pole connectors, some battery cable, a pair of cigarette lighter sockets and some speaker type connectors.
