Load spreader for roof top tent. SFA DC 1996

[mix]

Hi everybody

It has been a while but glad to be back. I have just been fortunate enough to get an excellent deal on a rtt. I have searched the forum for a load spreader (if that is the correct term) and can't find anything. Perhaps my terminology is incorrect but I am trying to source a load spreader for my SFA to mount my rtt. I called 4x4 megaworld and was quoted minimum R2500.
If anyone knows where else I could get one for a better price please point me in the right direction.

Furthermore I feel that the rtt should fold out over the bonnet with ladder attached to bullbar for the reason of better stability from the vehicle suspension. Is this correct thinking? Am I missing something?

Any replies will be much appreciated especially where to source a well priced load spreader.

Many Thanks in advance for your time and advice.

Mods please forgive me if I posted incorrectly. I am new to tapatalk.

Regards,

mix

[Mud Dog]

Hi Michael and welcome back! The thing with the SFA is that there are no built in load bearers under the roof skin. What most of the guys opt for then is either a load bin frame that will take the RTT or an aluminium canopy of sorts (aftermarket or DIY). This is often better IRO wind resistance (the SFA already has a relatively poor drag co-efficient).

If you're set on mounting it forward over the roof you'll have to use the 'gutters' as mounting points .... not too bad if you're not a big oke, but you're limited IRO the amount of weight those gutters will support (even more so if they're rusted). To do this you would have to get at least 3 load bars across the roof with long 'feet' that spread the load in the gutters as well as add 'to and fro' stability. Might be a good option to make something up yourself.

[CasKru]

Micheal, I have such a frame available (for the roof of an SFA standing in the gutters). Unfortunately I am in Benoni.

You can mount it on the frame in which ever way you like. The only thing to consider according te me is that the ladder usual is part of the support structure of the RTT so as long as you keep that in mind you are sorted.

[Haboob]

Welcome back Michael,
On a 1994 2.4P I mounted 2 sets of load bars (4 X Roof Racks) over the roof onto the gutter and also had the RTT opening over the front onto the bulbar in the front of the vehicle. This will also assist in spreading the weight of the Vehicle having the RTT in the front as most of the weight is loaded onto the back. I also used the rubber covers against which the doors close, (which fit on the inside of the door sills, which are encased around a metal strengthening strip) to rest the feet of the Roof Racks on in the roof gutters. This will prevent them from eating through the roof gutters when travelling on bad and corrugated roads (This has happened to numerous people travelling on the bad back roads). This worked very well as you also only use half the ladder, which makes the RTT easier to pack away and you can move the vehicle with the RTT still open if you want to move it into the sun to dry. You just need to build a bracket on the bulbar to take the bottom of the ladder from the RTT (I just used two short pieces of about 12 mm pipe welded onto the bulbar over which the feet of the ladder fitted - If you do not want to weld onto your bulbar, then just make a bracket with the same square tubing welded onto the bracket which is then tied /bolted onto the bulbar). I also had a flat strap fastened onto the ladder which tied around the bulbar as an extra precaution, but this is not really neccessary but does give peace of mind. This also allows you to move your vehicle in an emergency without first having to fold up the RTT. Fishing on the beaches we could drive to the next fishing spot to allow the RTT to dry out before closing it for the rest of the day...
Good luck with your project which is innovative and will also be less likely to be used by wild animals in the middle of the night as a scratching post...

[mix]

Morning chaps.

I have decided on a slightly different approach for my RTT.

The RTT is approximately 200mm high when packed away. My idea is to construct a canopy 200 mm lower-than the bakkie roof , Mount the RTT towards the rear of the canopy and have a low storage basket between the RTT and cab. I want everything flush but this means I will need to cut the roll bar by +- 200 mm and re weld it. I will have an aluminium canopy made with many struts to allow for my weight in the RTT. The vehicle will look similar to the front page picture of the sfa ramping a dune with a spare wheel on top of canopy. I am unsure of how to insert a picture off my phone.
I will have side doors and obviously a rear door construcetd for easy access to the bak. I will not be doing long trips as my girls are too small and I personally and particularly like minimalist camping. One night away, maximum two nights. I will definitely have the roll bar shortened so there is still some protection.

I have contacted alucab and they were exceptionally unhelpful. I did however zone across berserker canopies and saw almost exactly the same as what I want. Reynard from berserker was incredibly helpful and quoted me R 13500.

Is this a fair price and does anyone else know where else in Somerset West and surrounds I can look for quotes?

Many thanks.

Mix

[Mud Dog]

I don't see the need to shorten and re-fit the old rollbar if you have a steel frame made up for the back .... a front and rear 'end-stop' incorporated into the frame would more than suffice as a rollbar replacement and the RTT should still fit nicely between.

[mix]

Thanks Mud dog. My thinking is that it might be cheaper to just cut and re-weld the roll bar. I am on a budget so Please let me know which you think would be the cheapest option. I need to get a secondary battery fitted for an Engel fridge that my friend gave me. I have all the recovery equipment I need bar a winch buy I think a tirfor will be cheaper. I am so desperate to get out into the bush, I can't contain my self!

Many thanks as always for your swift responses.

[niclemaitre]

You could ask at GoMad in Brakenfell too

[mix]

Thanks, quote requested from GOMAD

[Mud Dog]

My thinking is thus ..... if you cut the rollbar down, it becomes much less effective as a safety feature. The rear passengers might certainly still have a lot more protection than the front seat occupants, but it will still be significantly compromised. The front is the more important consideration .... draw an imaginary line from the the top of the roll bar to the top of the 'hoop' on the bullbar and you will see how far the front of the roof can be compressed in the event of a roll-over - now do the same exercise with where you think the rollbar will be cut down to. You will see what I'm getting at.

Aluminium is deceptively strong, but not near as strong as steel, so an alu frame canopy is not going to give you as much protection, particularly if it's lower than cab roof height with front and rear "end-stops" that have less support than the frame. They can be made sufficiently stronger with some extensive gussetry (nothing is impossible), but this will all add to the cost. A steel frame with alu panels might then be the more affordable option.

[mix]

Thanks mud dog. Your thinking is sound and has made a huge impact on the way I am going to do the canopy. I have been thinking of other ideas like building over the roll bar and down until I reach the 200mm mark for the RTT, but that is fiddly and I don't want to cock it up.

I have finally decided to do a normal aluminium canopy with side doors etc and have the RTT on the canopy. My thoughts are that I need to mount the RTT sideways otherwise I cant get in and out of the canopy but then again I have side doors to the canopy... A conundrum indeed.

Before all this I will have the roll bar removed, the front and rear bullbars and the rock sliders removed, blasted and coated black. I am also in need of some new tyres so I will also re-condition my aftermarket mags and have them sprayed black too
I am busy removing the side stickers from the doors with a hair dryer as I don't have a heat gun. The driver's door was so easy but the offside passenger door has proved to be an absolute bastard. I can and have pulled the sticker off with the heat but the glue residue is stuck. I have resorted to a tooth brush and thinners, and old credit card as a scraper and I am still battling. I had to stop as the thinners was making the paint soft so I will begin again when I get home in December from work overseas.

The final look to the bakkie will be silver and black, no other colour, maybe some flared arches just to make it look a little more mean. I have a Safari snorkel, KC spots and I'm going to get 2 small stickers for each front door - HILUX RAIDER 4X4 - in black.

When I get home I have a friend who has a pencil blaster and I am an offshore coating specialist so I am going through the entire body and blasting out the minimal rust, coat it and seal it correctly and then have everything sprayed to freshen up the silver look. I won't let anyone deal with the rust, it will irk me not doing it myself and knowing it is done correctly!

So that is my project at the moment, thanks to you all for your advice and comments, they have made my mind up for the ideal look I want.

If anyone has a solution to remove the deadly glue please let me know!

Thanks to you all you have really helped me make my mind up.

All the best.

mix