Roof Rack complete - 90%

If we can have a forum for the Amarok, I see no reason why we cant have one for Daihatsu, which is part owned by Toyota anyway.
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Ali3n
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Thu Dec 29, 2011 8:44 am

Okay, so I completed my RR a few weeks ago but have been so busy at that I never got time to upload the pics. Image Image This was a project that I had been wondering if I should build or not but my curiosity got the better of me. :blushing: After receiving a quote roughly R3000 :shock2: to build out of aluminum I nearly fell on my back so I built it out of 1.6mm steel. Total weight is roughly between 12 and 15 kg’s. I still need it to be powder coated but that can only be done once everyone is opened in the New Year. I had to make a mount for the Hi-Lift jack and under the mount there is space for my Spade and Axe. Any alterations that I need to make must be done soon before the final paint so any suggestions are more than welcome. :beg: Thanks! :thumbup:
building small.jpg
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front side small.jpg
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Side rear small.jpg
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hi lift small.jpg
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Royco
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Thu Dec 29, 2011 9:19 am

:applaud: :goodjob:
Well done! Looks very neat.
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Mud Dog
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Thu Dec 29, 2011 10:21 am

Looks good, Francisco! :thumbup:

Some things you may / may not already have considered ...... if you're going to use tie-downs, where will you attach them. Some hook positions may be useful, either permanent or "keyholes" where you can fit removable eye-bolts, in strategic positions. A couple of bolt-on / bolt-off cradles for gas bottles and jerries. A plate / bracket at the back to mount a rearward facing spot / flood light (or two).

Then I would rather hot-dip galvanise before painting and stay away from powder coating. Having used mild steel which is prone to rusting, especially at the welds, powder coating in my opinion and experience is hopelessly less than adequate as it will be very likely to develop chips and scratches. Any flexing will cause hairline cracks in the coating, which is another area where the rust will start and creep in under the coating. Once rust starts in any area, you have to sandblast the whole unit before you can proceed with repair to the coating, but a chip resistant enamel allows for easy local touch-up. M2CW.

Have fun!

;-)

P.S. If you go the hot-dip route and want to paint it immediately, ask them NOT to dip it in the pacifier solution after the galvanising. Then you just use a galvanising cleaner / etching product like "Galv-Etch" prior to a red oxide primer or a calcium-plumbate primer like "Galvogrip" .... (do NOT use a water based primer).
When your road comes to an end ...... you need a HILUX!.

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Thu Dec 29, 2011 10:47 am

Royco wrote::applaud: :goodjob:
Well done! Looks very neat.
Thanks Roy!!
Mud Dog wrote:Looks good, Francisco! :thumbup:

Some things you may / may not already have considered ...... if you're going to use tie-downs, where will you attach them. Some hook positions may be useful, either permanent or "keyholes" where you can fit removable eye-bolts, in strategic positions. A couple of bolt-on / bolt-off cradles for gas bottles and jerries. A plate / bracket at the back to mount a rearward facing spot / flood light (or two).

Then I would rather hot-dip galvanise before painting and stay away from powder coating. Having used mild steel which is prone to rusting, especially at the welds, powder coating in my opinion and experience is hopelessly less than adequate as it will be very likely to develop chips and scratches. Any flexing will cause hairline cracks in the coating, which is another area where the rust will start and creep in under the coating. Once rust starts in any area, you have to sandblast the whole unit before you can proceed with repair to the coating, but a chip resistant enamel allows for easy local touch-up. M2CW.

Have fun!

;-)

P.S. If you go the hot-dip route and want to paint it immediately, ask them NOT to dip it in the pacifier solution after the galvanising. Then you just use a galvanising cleaner / etching product like "Galv-Etch" prior to a red oxide primer or a calcium-plumbate primer like "Galvogrip" .... (do NOT use a water based primer).
Thanks Oom Andy. I did think of a few of the thing you mentioned but nothing realized from that. :blushing: That’s where I need the help, :beg: besides with the rest of the project. :blackeye:

Hooks : I was thinking of that but could not find an example of something I could build myself so wanted to get a few ideas. Where would be a good idea to mount them etc. Permanent preferably.

Gas bottle & Jerry cans : I wanted to see an example to build myself. I am not sure of what they look like. Was waiting for OUPA OOOOMS to come back from his holiday to get a few tips but anyone who can assist would be greatly appreciated. :beg:

Rearward facing spot : MMMMMM, now that is something I did not think of. :think: What would you suggest?

The Idea of the powder coating came from a friend of mine on the community forum who built his allucab frame out of steel and powder coated that for under R250 and it looked good. I want to use something to try and hide some of the flaws in the welding. What other options are there that would suite my requirements? :wth:
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Andre du preez
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Thu Dec 29, 2011 11:19 am

Nie sleg nie............ :thumbup:

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Thu Dec 29, 2011 1:50 pm

Hooks : I was thinking of that but could not find an example of something I could build myself so wanted to get a few ideas. Where would be a good idea to mount them etc. Permanent preferably.
The thing about permanent hooks is that they should be placed in such a way as not to stand proud and hook up on every low hanging branch, as well as not to protrude into the load space and interfere with the load. On my work bakkie rack I mounted the hooks underneath and facing inwards. That's worked well for me over many years and the rack is now on it's second vehicle. (If it's not clear to you what I mean and you require a pic, let me know and I'll post one.)
Gas bottle & Jerry cans : I wanted to see an example to build myself. I am not sure of what they look like. Was waiting for OUPA OOOOMS to come back from his holiday to get a few tips but anyone who can assist would be greatly appreciated. :beg:
Seeing as you have the option to do this for yourself, make it using a template for the mounting bolts so that you can mount the jerry-can holder/s in any position set aside on the rack and in either the 'flat' position as well as the 'on edge' position .... the template should be used on the gas bottle holder as well. That way you can fit them where and how is best suited for a particular loading, and can be removed when not in use.
Rearward facing spot : MMMMMM, now that is something I did not think of. :think: What would you suggest?
I have always fitted rear facing spots / floods to my 4x4, even the previous one, and always with an internal switch on the dash with an LED in the switch or toggle so that you can see immediately if it's on (once was enough to forget to switch it off causing the battery to run flat quickly ..... spots are hungry energy users). The idea is very handy for a good number of reasons ....... with a raised vehicle plus canopy, rear vision is impaired and at night it's worse, so with a flick of a switch I have light that's far better than the hopeless reverse lights. Also, if you're camping, working and need some light at the back for a while, the spots are great. And then the part I really love, is when you have some a-hole driving behind you at night with his brights on, a 2 second burst is normally all it takes for him / her to dip their lights :D: . Also useful as a 'thank you' / greeting to someone behind you instead of using the hazards. A simple flat bracket welded on each end with a mounting hole in each should do fine .... try as best you can to position them in such a way that they enjoy some protection and are not likely to snag on branches etc.

IM004256.JPG


The Idea of the powder coating came from a friend of mine on the community forum who built his allucab frame out of steel and powder coated that for under R250 and it looked good. I want to use something to try and hide some of the flaws in the welding. What other options are there that would suite my requirements?
Powder coating will not fully hide the flaws and neither will galvanising, but both are ' thick' coatings and one will do as good a job of it as the other. Powder coating definitely has it's uses where it can be a serviceable option, but when it comes to applications where it will be subjected to flexing, knocks and abrasion, it's just not up to the task. Neither is the best quality paint, but as mentioned, paint is the easiest thing in the world to touch-up. It would also be possible to 'fix' some of your welding flaws with some body putty / spot putty prior to painting. Spray painting should give you a nice finish as well. Coating alone is not ideal, and that's why I suggested the galvanising .... even if it scratches, chips or wears through where a loaded item has been rubbing / vibrating, no rust will start.

;-)
When your road comes to an end ...... you need a HILUX!.

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Life is like a jar of Jalapeño peppers ... what you do today, might burn your ass tomorrow.
Don't take life too seriously ..... no-one gets out alive.
It's not about waiting for storms to pass. It's about learning to dance in the rain.
And be yourself ..... everyone else is taken!

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Ali3n
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Thu Dec 29, 2011 4:20 pm

Thanks Oom Andy for your advice. Much appreciated. I don’t mean to be a pain but could you please post a pic of the hooks? I just want to make sure I understand you correctly. I think that I will definitely be reconsidering the painting option. I understand 100% what you are saying and it has made me think. Thanks. :thumbup:
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Thu Dec 29, 2011 8:48 pm

Looking sharp :thumbup: Oom Andy is always on point.
I suspect if you have plans for an awning later, you could measure from someone who has and make provision (brackets) :think:
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Fri Dec 30, 2011 1:43 am

Sorry I've taken so long ..... supposed to be on holiday but I'm as busy as ever around the house, seeing as I'm at home.

Here are some pics then. The hooks I made with 10mm bar might be a bit big for your rack, but you can make them smaller .... even from 8mm bar should be OK.

IMG_7369.JPG
IMG_7372.JPG



With the inward facing hooks I loop my tie-downs over the outside of the bottom rail so that they cannot come off. I sometimes use home-made "stretchies" from truck tyre tubes and do the same, but sometimes I even hook it from the inside and it still doesn't come off since the tension keeps them up.

Take note also of the galvanising ..... it has worn smooth and shiny. It's already about 17 years since it was done and it's still good. Remember that the rack sees daily use and that this is also at the coast.

Just out of interest, the rear mount spots on the 'new' bakkie.

IMG_7373.JPG



;-)
When your road comes to an end ...... you need a HILUX!.

Image
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Life is like a jar of Jalapeño peppers ... what you do today, might burn your ass tomorrow.
Don't take life too seriously ..... no-one gets out alive.
It's not about waiting for storms to pass. It's about learning to dance in the rain.
And be yourself ..... everyone else is taken!

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Ali3n
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Fri Dec 30, 2011 8:37 am

No worries, I know exactly what you mean. I should have been away with Neil (Tunder02) and them in Botswana but due to my work (as usual) and a few unforeseen occurrences at home we sadly did not make it so I am on and off leave at work and at home. And we are moving next week so what a start to the New Year.

I am going to wait for the New Year and talk to a few guys regarding the galvanizing but it sounds like it would be a better option. Thanks!

I understood you correctly with regards to the hooks. I am going to plan something similar to that.

I have organized 2 jerries so I can also get started on my template and I have thee perfect gas bottle thanks to the ladies day at Bosvark 4x4 where my wife won 1 so that will also get me started on the template for the gas bottle.

The spots at the back look awesome with the color. I have also started looking at that. Online shopping.

I will post pictures of the progress and thanks for the advice!!! :thumbup:
PRESENTLY DISADVANTAGED
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Custom built Rock Sliders, Bumpers, Belly protection.... Anything you can think of
Cell: 076 122 3744 E-Mail: fpanaino@gmail.com
Bear Grylls calls it "Ultimate Survival", overlanders call it "Camping"

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Mud Dog
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Real Name: Andy

Fri Dec 30, 2011 11:43 am

:cooldude: ;-)
When your road comes to an end ...... you need a HILUX!.

Image
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Life is like a jar of Jalapeño peppers ... what you do today, might burn your ass tomorrow.
Don't take life too seriously ..... no-one gets out alive.
It's not about waiting for storms to pass. It's about learning to dance in the rain.
And be yourself ..... everyone else is taken!

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