Tazz using oil

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volstruis
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Tazz using oil

Post by volstruis »

Hi Gents

I need to pick your brains a bit on something other than a Hilux but still a Toyota.
I have a 1.3 1998 Tazz, it has 212 000km on the clock. My problem is its starting to use oil and I mean use oil.
In the last 5000km I had to fill the oil 6 times. I mean it was empty on oil NOTHING left this morning again.
The oil light would just go on and then I knew.
It just went for a service and the guy told me he cant find anything wrong.
I have also been over the motor and I see no oil leaks.

Thx Gents
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Re: Tazz using oil

Post by Jaws »

Does it smoke ?
:thumbup:
DOELLOOS

Re: Tazz using oil

Post by DOELLOOS »

Camel plain...

:twisted: :twisted: :twisted:
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Re: Tazz using oil

Post by volstruis »

No Jaws I also checked for it.
Maybe I got a oil thief!
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Re: Tazz using oil

Post by Dadz Toy BFI »

Loosing that much oil....

are you sure that you have a sump plug??

R ;-)
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Re: Tazz using oil

Post by Mr_B »

Check the PCV(Positive Crank Ventilation) system... the engine could have sump compression, and is pushing the oil out the PCV valve into the intake mani for combustion burning...
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Re: Tazz using oil

Post by volstruis »

Eish! Bretton I will need to google all that to know what you mean.
Thx for the suggestion.
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Re: Tazz using oil

Post by Hannes.S »

RustyRod wrote:Check the PCV(Positive Crank Ventilation) system... the engine could have sump compression, and is pushing the oil out the PCV valve into the intake mani for combustion burning...
Hi Bretton
What is the cause for sump compression? A friend of mine have the same problem on his audi.
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Re: Tazz using oil

Post by Hannes.S »

ok. found this.

http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Automobile ... re_you_buy

The sump compression of an engine must be negative. Pull out the dipstick while engine is idling, don't rev the engine. If there's any wind, gas or oil escaping the dipstick holder then the rings are worn. This condition is known as 'blow-by'.

White smoke from the exhaust indicates engine oil remaining on the bore that the rings haven't scraped off -loss of oil control. Black smoke from the exhaust indicates dirty fuel injectors on a diesel engine. Dirty fuel injectors aren't a serious problem. The rings gets progressively worn down. A slight escape of wind from the dipstick is the first stage of ring failure. It will get worse until gasses and oil start escaping the dipstick holder. Reduced compression or blow-by on the rings has nothing to do with the condition of a diesel pump.

Reduced engine compression/white smoke are the result of the piston rings not sealing tight with the bore. 'Blow-by' on the rings results in less power transferred to the crankshaft. The compression gases that escape past the rings are forced out via the sump. This results in the sump leaking oil.

First conduct a 'dry test' and then a 'wet test'. The dry/wet readings must be very close to each other. To do a dry test, unplug the spark plugs for petrol and remove the glowplugs on a diesel engine. Place compression tester inside glowplug and crank engine 10 times till the needle indicates maximum compression. Note this reading and write it down. Repeat test for remaining three cylinders. All four readings must be within 10% of the vehicle specs and very close to each other. Should a reading be out, insert 10ml engine oil into the glowplug and repeat compression test. The oil seals any faulty rings. Should the reading differ from the dry reading, it indicates a failing ring. Above sea level the compression readings on all four pistons must be within 80% of the specs.

A mechanic must perform a compression test on any used vehicle before purchase. And don't use the mechanic next door to the retail outlet - ensure you obtain an unbiased opinion.

If there's no air, gases or oil escaping the dipstick holder, but the compression readings are not correct then the cylinder head is cracked or there is a blown head gasket. Look for a white emulsification on the dipstick. It would indicate a cracked cylinder head, leaking engine coolant on the piston.Check the dipstick end for gear oil or engine oil. Unscrupulous sellers add SAE90 gear oil to mask faulty ring symptoms.
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Re: Tazz using oil

Post by BenHur »

Did it start using oil all the sudden or over a period of time and getting worse?

Start by using thicker oil, something like Shell Helix High Mileage.
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Re: Tazz using oil

Post by volstruis »

Hi Bennie
Its all of a sudden but its getting worse.
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Re: Tazz using oil

Post by Thabogrobler »

Ja, those 2E engines does that. Uses more oil than petrol, but then again, it smoked a tad when you plated you right foot

On my mums old 1300, we just swapped the motor for a jap import and gone was that nasty drinking habit!
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Re: Tazz using oil

Post by BenHur »

if its all the sudden then its not normal wear and tear, something broke
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Re: Tazz using oil

Post by Mud Dog »

With 212000 on the clock, those rings are probably worn quite thin. It's possible that one (or more) have cracked leading to the sudden oil consumption. :think:
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Re: Tazz using oil

Post by volstruis »

Eish that sounds like it could get pricy!
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Re: Tazz using oil

Post by Mud Dog »

volstruis wrote:Eish that sounds like it could get pricy!
Maybe, and I would prepare myself for repair costs, but it need'nt be that bad if you're able to do it yourself.

However, we're jumping the gun a little. The first step would be to do a compression test, a simple procedure. (If you don't have a compression tester yourself, compare the cost of buying a basic one against having it done at a service station. For a few more rands it might well pay to have your own for future use. Alternatively a friend may have one you could borrow.)

Good luck. :wink:
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Re: Tazz using oil

Post by Dadz Toy BFI »

I'm still mistified by this oil usage, just how much oil have you put in during that period :?:

Ps.. when we Efi'd my original Jap 4Y and found that Cylinder 1 was vrot - turned out to be a compressed oil scraper ring - it wasn't using so much oil - must be more than rings me thinks :think:
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Re: Tazz using oil

Post by Mud Dog »

Rich, just remember that worn valve stem seals will also contribute significantly to oil consumption, but far more as a result of buggered rings. Not only will excessive oil be left on the cylinder walls after each intake stroke which is subsequently burned, but there will be a lot more crank case pressure that will vent into the carb / EFI manifold, carrying oil droplets with it. If the motor is using oil and ther are no external signs of leakage, it's got to be going out through the exhaust or into the coolant which would also be glaringly evident. :wink:
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Re: Tazz using oil

Post by Dadz Toy BFI »

Mud Dog wrote:Rich, just remember that worn valve stem seals will also contribute significantly to oil consumption, but far more as a result of buggered rings. Not only will excessive oil be left on the cylinder walls after each intake stroke which is subsequently burned, but there will be a lot more crank case pressure that will vent into the carb / EFI manifold, carrying oil droplets with it. If the motor is using oil and ther are no external signs of leakage, it's got to be going out through the exhaust or into the coolant which would also be glaringly evident. :wink:
Andy I'd be right with you if we were talking about an Opel, VW or the like but we're talking Yota man the real deal :confused:

(or has it got a Chinky Chonk knock off moutor in it) :o:
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Re: Tazz using oil

Post by Mud Dog »

212K is a fair amount for a Tazz .... it's a higher revving motor than the 4y, and one does'nt always know the history .... how it's been treated, what grade oils have been used, has it been run with a low oil level, more short hops than longer runs etc. :think:
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Re: Tazz using oil

Post by volstruis »

Still original motor and haven't missed a service.
But I got it on 80 000km'sso before that I have no idea.
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Re: Tazz using oil

Post by BenHur »

Andy

Normally if a motor is burning that serious amount of oil out the exhaust there will be evidence i.e smoking, oily residue in the exhaust etc.

But ja if it was me Id rather see if I can get a jap import because if a ring broke normally a simple hone is not enough and you need to have the block bored and fit oversized pistons and that is going to be expensive.
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Re: Tazz using oil

Post by Jaws »

Unfortunantly the 2E engines as quite expensive at the import places. Last have I have seen where in the region of R5000 to R7000. There are always cheaper 3E (1500cc) engine but getting spares for them is a problem as they where never sold over here so I would stay away from those.

Personally I would rather just rebuild the current engine (rings, bearings and head recon). Should cost the same as an import but then at least you know it is good for the next 200 000km.

But like Bennie has mentioned this would only be true of the bores are still in a good condition. Better to have it looked at properly before you damage the engine beyond repair.
:thumbup:
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Re: Tazz using oil

Post by volstruis »

Well maybe its just time for a new car.
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Re: Tazz using oil

Post by Hoppy »

My wife had a Tazz a few years ago, i had the same prblem on 180 000 km, i did the head and fitted new rings, didn't work, i had to rebore and replace the pistons.
Because of the short conrod design, the sleeves wears oval, so it doesn't show a ridge on top, but its worn in the middle, much like the 4Y.
I sold the car, as a 1.3 it was heavier on fuel than my 2L Jetta and my wife couldn't get used to the performance and handling, so i bought another 2l Jetta.
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Re: Tazz using oil

Post by Mr_B »

Warren... speak to Thys... it may be time for consider a 7MGE... 3L 24V... really sweet motor... and they are pretty cheap! :twisted: :thumbup:
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Re: Tazz using oil

Post by Hoppy »

7 M in a Tazz??????????
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Re: Tazz using oil

Post by BenHur »

Alan

I remember your signature once said something to the effect of can someone ever have enough horsepower?
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Re: Tazz using oil

Post by volstruis »

Eish maar so baie?
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