High beam not working - 97 SFA

[zepplin]

Has any one had experience with this? When flashing the brights they work fine but when pushing stalk forwards for permanent brights they don't come on at all?
I'm thinking the switch inside the column covers is FUBAR.
Where to get one other than the stealers???

[CasKru]

Scrapyard or even Gemini.

You could probably save it. Take the unit out and clean it with some contact cleaner. Might save you a few bucks

[Borntofish]

Mine had the same issue, but strangely the spots would still come on as they are on their own circuit with a relay. So I bought another relay and wired the highbeam up trough the new relay, problem solved. I think the contact points deteriorate on the switch, but it still has enough power to send a on signal to the relay

[cprinsloo]

Or you could take the unit apart, and solder the contact points again.... worked for me.

C

[zepplin]

Thanks guys. I guess it's out with the soldering iron.

[Family_Dog]

Contact Cleaner works wonders! This is a common fault with the SFA steering column light switch.


-F_D

[2.8 d/cab SFA]

had same issue, contact cleaner and work it good couple times, and voila she fixed, tip from guys on forum, and it works :)

[rebuilder]

A relay would solve the problem and stop it from happening again. I have had this problem on numerous vehicles and trucks. I do it as a standard on most vehicles now and you get a brighter light from headlights than normal.

[mervyn]

I have same issue. Gonna try the contact cleaner 1st. will le tu guys know

[Mud Dog]

10 to 1 it's the stalk switch. The contact cleaner works, but I replaced the contacts in the switch on mine since they were a little too burnt by arcing ... not a kit that can be ordered, but a DIY job. Best of luck!

[mervyn]

Guys I stripped mine this afternoon. Used contact cleaner and looked at the contact point module. Darned thing works to flash but not to stay on if you flick the stalk stick. It was getting late and I didnt read Andy's reply by then, so I took down the part number (176336R9 if anyone wants it), in the hope of sourcing a new one. However Andy now says that we cant get it, so it looks like I have to strip it again over the weekend. Thing though is I tried to make sense of the contact points and how they work. For the limited time I looked at it, I just didnt figure it out. Understood how the driving light and 'high beam on demand' works but not the high beam in 'locked' position. But guess that if contacts are worn then I have to look at it again. Any tips Andy as to which points need to be re-built?

[Mud Dog]

Mervyn, what I meant is that there is no repair kit available. Complete stalk switches are (or were) still available from the dealers and IIRC they were in the region of about R750 at the time. This was all quite some time ago that I re-conned mine, so my memory is more than a little fuzzy as to which contacts I rebuilt. I do recall that it was confusing for me at first as well and took a little while to figure out how it all worked. What I do remember is that the mechanics of the switch worked fine ... it stayed on brights when I pushed the lever forwards but just didn't make proper contact.

If you can't get a replacement (new or 2nd hand), strip it again when you have more time to figure it out. Sorry I can't help more at this point,

Best of good luck!

[Blaps]

Im trying to find out from toyota if it is still available but the guy came back to me and said the part no: must be 9 digits ???? :wth: :?

[Family_Dog]

Autozone used to sell the Taxi Generic one for Hi-Aces, seemed to be much the same as far as I remember. Was a few years back, but the price very fair at the time. Certainly only about 20% of the price that the genuine item costs.


-F_D

[Blaps]

OK!!! it's like this
If you buy it from a person that works for yota, this person can get it for about R680. employee discounts, benefits whatever you want to call it :?
If you dont care and is very honest you will pay R1280 at yota stealers! :x

[mervyn]

Yep, I also checked with Yota. Price was R1359-00 incl. My stalk stick is working fine save for permanent high beam. Going to strip and look carefully this time.

[Mud Dog]

Merwyn, when you push the stalk switch forward to the high beam position, does it click and stay in place? In other words, Are the mechanics of the switch in order? If so, then it has to be contacts. If you've used the contact cleaner and it hasn't helped, then the contacts are burnt away.

Another thought is that it could be the relay and not the stalk switch at all .... better check that first.

[mervyn]

Andy mechanics seems fine, switch stays in place. Cud be relay, never thought of that. Where do I find that?

[Mud Dog]

Not sure anymore, but I think it's one of those in the fuse box under the bonnet (driver's side). Should be marked on the diagram on the lid. If it's not there, then it may be behind the driver's side kick panel.

[Stef]

So yesterday I took the bakkie to work in order to stretch its' legs again, and on the way home I realised I now have the same problem :problem:

Pulling the stalk back everything works, pushing it forward it latches, but only the Warn spots light up, headlights completely dead. Can't be wiring, must be switch issue and reading the above it seems the train of thought is correct.

I'll check out the stalk switch & attempt a repair, but in case I need to wire an additional relay, where would the easiest place be to pick up the wire for the high beam? Thoughts are to disconnect wire from stalk to fusebox ( iow the supply side) & hook that up to the relay which will draw power straight from battery. Want to avoid splicing into harnesses.

[Mud Dog]

If the spots still come on then the stalk switch must be working ..... it's more likely to be the headlamp relay.

[Stef]

Haven't checked yet, so wasn't sure if high beams have a relay ( I know the spots have). So if you think it's the relay then howcome the headlamps work when I pull the stalk back? Unless the low beams are supposed to be off when the stalk is in the forward position, then it could be the fuse or the relay on the high beam circuit, in other words when the stalk is pulled back the low beams & spots are on but the high beams are still dead...

[Mud Dog]

Stef, as far as I know, stalk forward = spots & high beam only .... stalk pulled back (flash) = spots, high & low beam. So as you say, it indicates a fault in either the high beam relay, fuse or wiring circuit. (Probably you'll find it's just a poor connection somewhere. )

[Royco]

I had the same thing happen on my LTD.
They had to replace the whole stalk assembly (not sure what it's called).
Back in those days it was a lot of $$! I managed to get one off a Cressida, with a little "work" it fitted.
But the auto electricians could not fix the switch.

Hope for your sake its not that...!!

[Stef]

Stef, as far as I know, stalk forward = spots & high beam only .... stalk pulled back (flash) = spots, high & low beam.

Cool...it saves plenty time when one has an idea of how it's supposed to work

I managed to get one off a Cressida, with a little "work" it fitted.
But the auto electricians could not fix the switch.

Hope for your sake its not that...!!

Me too! But me thinks it's just a fuse / relay. Spots still work so switch should be fine, but I'm gonna clean the contacts anyway

[Stef]

Did some checking last night...

Fuses & Relays all fine.
The headlight switch turned to 'parklights' will actuate the tail light relay behind kick panel.
Turned to 'headlights' position the Denso relay in bonnet fusebox is actuated.
No extra relay for high beam, but additional one for spots.
The Denso relay will send 12V to 10A headlamp fuse holders.
From the other side of fuse holder the Red/white wire goes to the left lamp and the red/black wire goes to the right lamp (side contacts).
The top contacts of lamps are grounded, but also connected to spot relay coil, the other end of coil is also ground, but physically with a wire to chassis.

With stalk forward, the Denso relay remains actuated, thus still 12V to low beam (side) contacts on lamps, but the top contacts of lamp previously grounded now becomes 12V, thus actuating the spot relay.

Logic tells me tha the remaining side contacts on the lamps must now be grounded, but is also 12V , thus with all 3 lamp contacts 12V, it's no wonder they are dead, which now takes me back to the stalk switch.

So the low/high beams in the headlamps are switched by shunting the ground point of the filaments, very clever trick indeed.
Will test my theory 2day when someone can pull the stalk back (where all works fine) while I operate the Fluke front

[Stef]

No need to test my theory, it's all here http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks ... ight_Combo

Refers to a 4runner, but principle stays the same, should have looked here first Aah well...good to know the grey matter is not completel rotten just yet

[Royco]

Nice going Stef. I do hope you get it sorted.
I found my old original switch lever assembly for the LTD, I'm not going to try to fix it now, but it's available if you need spare parts...

[Stef]

Nice going Stef. I do hope you get it sorted.
I found my old original switch lever assembly for the LTD, I'm not going to try to fix it now, but it's available if you need spare parts...

That's mighty nice of you Will shout if in need.

Buggered myself around a bit with the testing ...is best to remove fuses, relays & disconnect bulbs before tracing the wiring with a multimeter..Duh! Only after I did that I figured out the ground switching bit, and the other point to remember is the bulb common contact ( which I thought was the low beam contact) is wired to 12V when the relay is actuated.

Just future reference for whoever might need it.... :wink2:

[GeorgeJvR]

Stefan i'm startin on the end of your topic her and i'm not one for a lot of reading, but

My LTD had toubles with the brights
Dimm and driving lights were fine but when i switch to brights, only the spots worked and the headlights went of.

I removed the stearing wheel, cluster at steering coulom and the whole swith part (Indicators , wipers ect) cleaned it and re fitted every thing, and whala all is working 100% seems like there was a bad conection on the bright's switch

[Stef]

Tx George, managed to fix it last night. The contact was actually burned, more like a residue from the switchin arcs.

In short (pardon the pun), the contact was not making a solid zero resistance connection, so if measured with a multimeter while the globes are unplugged you get 12V between batt + and the high beam contact, but with the globes plugged in the resistance is too high and you don't get a proper ground.

I took some pics during the repair:

The make shift steering puller

The steering wheel inside, note the threaded holes either side of the centre hole; this is where the bolts of the puller go in. The socket pushes against steering column shaft ( with the lock nut place, just loosened a turn or two)

Unscrew this plug from it's bracket to het slack on the harness in order to pull the switch assy. off the column

The contacts

The culprit...

Just sanded with very fine sandpaper and voilla!

[Family_Dog]

Job well done! :)


-F_D

[Mud Dog]

Those contacts carry a fair load and I think that the resultant arcing gives rise to this fairly common problem. A relay (or two) up front for the headlamps is definitely on the cards, so that the stalk switch only has to operate a relay and nit the switching.

[Stef]

I must say looking at the gauge of the wire (red/yellow) on those contacts as well as the contacts themselves they are adequate for the headlights. The contactacts were not burned/pitted, more like a residue that increases resistance. Given the age of the vehicle it's actually not that bad.

Definitely considering the additional relay on the ground line, just need to figure out where to hook it up. I think the fuse box might be the best place, can actually mount it inside as well.
So the red/yellow wire from the plug in the fuse box would be removed and hooked up to the relay coil, while the realy contact would replace the wire in the plug.

Alternatively one could just tap a feed of the spotlight relay

[Whatson]

Thanks, had same problem, found this topic which has saved me a lot of time

[Stef]

Good to hear...the pics were worth the effort then

[TOYFORD]

Hi guys, to cut a long story short i had the same prob with my high beam,stripped all down and used fine water paper between high beam contacts,never had a prob again.

[OOOOMS]

Hi guys, to cut a long story short i had the same prob with my high beam,stripped all down and used fine water paper between high beam contacts,never had a prob again.

Tx Shawn & welcome

[Mud Dog]

Hi Shawn ..... good to see yet another East Londoner here.

[Bulletjie-3]

I bought a new switch harness with cable and plug from ONE Tonner in Pta for R150.

[TOYFORD]

TKS MUD DOG

[Mountain Man]

Those contacts carry a fair load and I think that the resultant arcing gives rise to this fairly common problem. A relay (or two) up front for the headlamps is definitely on the cards, so that the stalk switch only has to operate a relay and nit the switching.

Andy,
My Hilux has a relay for this purpose as standard in the fuse/relay box under the bonnet. It is the only relay there and this opperates the lights. Therefore it is not required to add another relay as you suggested.

[Rider]

519franco and I having the same problem. thanks....gonna try sort mines out.

[mushroom]

Hi gents, I added some photies cos mine had a funny plastic thingy covering the contacts - this required removing the hazards switch to get the cover off..

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IMG_0440.JPG (69.71 KiB) Viewed 6784 times

The sad thing is, even after I did all of this, the sanding, the spraying etc...the bloody thing still didnt work, brights okay to flash but the minute I push the stalk forward everything goes off. - now I'm stumped...did I sand them enough? I used 800 grit which is quite a fine sand paper.