Carburettor Flooding or running dry on abstacle, Please help

[naasburger]

We went driving this weekend at H&K in Chloorkop. When I drive my 2.4 Hilux 22R uphill at a very steep angle, as I get close to the top the engine dies on me. Some people say its a downdraft carb, which I know nothing about, and they say the float is running dry. I want to sort this out because everytime I try a big obstacle, this happens and its very frustrating to me.

Some say I must turn the carb around, but havnt tried that, dont know if it will work, and also another guy told me to do some mod in the carb with 2 pipes running into the airpipe or something.

If anybody has had the same problem, please give me some advice how to fix this. This is making me look very bad on the course with the V8 landy guys, I laughed at and thats unacceptable.

Please guys, I need an inexpensive fix.

[DOELLOOS]

Naas,

Unfortunately there is no easy fix for this problem. The more you modify your carbs, the more complicated they become, which in turn means always tweaking and adjusting, ie. frustration. If its not flooding, then its running dry... etc.

Fuel injection is the way to go, especially when it comes to 4x4 driving.

Sorry pal, this one will cost some money... if you want it perfect...

[ThysdJ]

Okay, I had a similar problem long time ago when I was running a Hilux with a Ford V6. :D

What we did was to add an additional electric fuel pump in the fuel line. When I knew I was going to go up steep inclines I flipped a switch to activate the additional fuel pump, and that sorted the problem. I dont know if this will work in your case, but it is worth a try :?

[naasburger]

Dabkie julle

Is daar EFI vir die 22R engine? Ek het gehoor daar is nie, hulle se ek moet die 22RZ insit, hy het met EFI gekom, maar dis nou weer die hele engine. Daar moet some oplossing wees

Ek sal eers die 2de fuel pump probeer, goedkoopste.

Anders as dit loop my Hilux soos n droom. Het Ironman ingesit desember, maar was nie happy met my shocks nie. Saam met die extended shacles was hulle te kort en my travel ondertoe was omtrent niks. Het toe Ironman in Australia gemail en die ouens van SA het toe vir my langer shocks gemodify, moes my voorste briekpypies langer maak, maar nou loop hy soos ni spinnekop. Moet net die Carb uitsort en n locker kry vir daai extra moeilike goed. Gearmax is R4800 fitted, spaar nou vir hom.

[naasburger]

As n mens nou n ander enjin insit, wat is die prosedure met die registrasie paier en verandering van die enjin nommer? Moet die bakkie gaan vir police clearance of iets?

[ThysdJ]

Ja daar is 'n police clearance certificate op jou horison...

[DOELLOOS]

Naas, bel vir Danie by 083 990 9400. Hy het al 'n paar EFI conversions vir die R22 gedoen.

[naasburger]

Ek sal vir Danie n lui gee, dankie!!

[CasKru]

Hi Naas, post asseblief info wat jy by Danie kry. Het self 'n 22R en sal graag wil weet wat is my opsies.

Omtrnet daai Gearmax wat jy wil insit. Ek het ook een in my bakkie. Lyk my hy is nice as hy nuut is maar sodra hy bietjie kilos begin opkry , disengage hy wanneer jy hom die nodigste het. Myne het my juis die naweek redelik boos gehad. Ek moet juis die komende naweek hom bietjie diens en kyk of ek hom nie kan fix nie. So, as jy kan spaar is dalk die moeite werd om te spaar vir 'n Detroit locker (dit is die advies wat ek die naweek gekry het). Al wat ek nie van daai idee like nie is dat dit 'n auto locker. Nou dat ek die topic klaar gehijack het kom ek terug na die punt

Ek het sover nog nie issues gehad met my standaard carb op die 22r nie.

[naasburger]

Cassie

Het nounet met Danie gepraat, Hy se die EFI op die 2.4 kos so R7500, vat so week. Dis nogals baie, ek het klaar n hoop geld op my bakkie gespandeer. Die mense se ek moet my float level check, hy moet dalk gestel word. Gewone offroad gee myne ook geen pyne nie, maar as ons die impossible wil klim (50 grade en erger met n 90 grade klip begin) dan gee my carb probleme.

Ek hou ook nie van die detroit se auto manier van werk nie, maar ek het gehoor die gearmax moet maar na gekyk word.

Die ander opsie by Danie is die 3l Cressida enjin, hy doen hom vir R28,000-00. Dis die enjin, head gerecon met nuwe gasket, ander bellhousing, BMW radiator met elektriese fans, en computer met drade. Al wat ek nie van hou nie is jy het dan nie meer aircon nie, met aircon en aircon radiator se hy mens sit met overheating probleme.

R28000 is ook baie om an so ou bakkie te spandeer, as ek dit self doen sal ek seker weg kom met so R15,000 dink ek, maar dis n storie om dit self te doen.

My 2.4 het net te min krag en torque vir daai wille goed waar die V8 manne ry. Ek wil ook daar ry!!

[naasburger]

Cassie ek sien jy bly in Rynfield, eks hier in Pomona, dis net om die draai van my. Ons moet bietjie gaan saam ry!!

[CasKru]

Ek self sal ook nie omgee vir die meer krag nie maar ek myself gaan eerder met die betroubaarheid. Sover kon ek nog meeste obsticles doen wat die ander gedoen het, net saterdag nie omdat my diff-loc bly uitskop het en omdat ek all terrain tekkies opgehad en nie modder tekkies nie en dit was probably so 35-40 degrees snot-slope.

Ek sal se as jy eers die diff ding gedoen het sal die krag wat jy het beter toe gepas word en sal jy dalk nie 'n groter enjin nodig nie. Ek wil kyk of ek die naweek my diff kan service, miskien is daar wel net iets kleins fout.

[BenHur]

An auto locker or positive locker will pull both wheels when the engine is applying power to the wheels but when you turn the outer wheel is free to run faster. So it is always locket when driving in a straight line and it will "disengage when you turn.

A simplistic way of describing it is to compare it to the "freewheel ratchet" of on the rear sprocket of a bicycle. If you gou downhill the wheels are free to turn faster than what you paddle. Now think of an auto locker as two of these ratchets connected side by side onto the sideshafts turning each wheel.

Both wheels will at least turn the minimum speed that the engine drives it but when you turn the vehicle the outer wheel can turn faster.

An auto locker is not just two ratchets though, but the principle above is basically how they will work. Because you are applying equal force to both wheels your vehicle might feel like it is under-steering a bit but most guys using them says that having it on the rear only is not that bad and that you do get used to it quickly.

[freeflyd]

Back to the carb problem: I had the same scenario once. I saw a carb specialist, who also has a Lux. He recommended a Weber 32/36 which apparently has a rubber float, which in some way can solve this problem. This was on a 4Y though. To replace my current 38 weber with that would cost about R2 500... The owner of 4x4 Megaworld in Menlyn in Pretoria also has a 4y and he has also solved that problem by playing around with different carbs. I think he also has the 32/36 now..

So before spending the big bucks, I'd see a carburetor specialist...

[BenHur]

The owner of 4x4 Megaworld in Menlyn in Pretoria also has a 4y and he has also solved that problem by playing around with different carbs. I think he also has the 32/36 now..

Danie

Louis actually drove with us yesterday at Mahem and he told me that he reverted back to his original 4Y carb which he had overhauled recently. He was able to climb a fairly long and steep climb with it yesterday. Cassie also did this climb with his 22R on a stock carb. I have seen many carb vehicles choke on this specific climb before.

Naas

Give Louis a call on 012 348 0826 and ask him who serviced his carb.

[naasburger]

Thanks for the help guys!

I phoned a carb place yesterday and they told me that if I look at the little glass window on my carb, which shows the float level, the level must be in the middle of the window. My window is filled with petrol, so maybe I just need a float adjustment and a carb service.

I will let you guys know what happens.

[pietpetoors]

Either float adjustment or new needle and seat

[Knersus]

Naas ek hoor jou lied as jy se jy wil ook daar ry en dan spoeg en spartel die ou onder jou voet. Ek het al ondervind dat die enjin so sluk gee as ek 'n duin storm en daar is so paar gate in die duin getrap( sekerlik deur n LR) en dit breek ook jou spoed. Ek glo jou probleem kan net wees dat jou float level van die carb dalk nie lekker is nie of dat jou petrol pomp dalk besig is om te groet. Kyk of daar olie dalk onder die pomp uitkom, indien wel dan moet jy hom vervang. Aan die ander kant moet jy dalk toets of die petrol pype van die tenk af oop is...Daar is dalk 'n verstopping iewers wat keer dat jou carb petrol kry.

Ek sal nie die raad volg om 'n webber op te sit nie :roll: Webbers het miskien so bietjie meer performance maar hier begin jou probleme net meer raak as jy wil obsticals klim. Laat weet wat jy ondervind het wat fout was asb.