3lt D4D Waterpump (and cambelt) Replacement Step by Step

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Mars
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Wed May 09, 2012 8:03 am

Hi Guys
I have been looking around on the forum but don't seem to get any information on this. Does anyone know if it is necessary to remove the timing belt cover and belt in order to replace the waterpump on a 30lt D4D? If this is so then what are the index marks I need to align before I remove the belt?

Thanks
Last edited by Mars on Mon May 21, 2012 3:39 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Wed May 09, 2012 10:39 am

You don't have to remove the belt to do the pump, but if you ever have to, the marks are clear.
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Wed May 09, 2012 10:44 am

Dankie Hopps :thumbup:

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Wed May 09, 2012 11:11 am

Dankie Hoppy

Just an update on my water pump replacement. When I looked on Toyodiy I noticed that the waterpump assembly consists of two parts. A casing that extends underneath the timing belt and timing belt cover (obviously) and a pump assembly that attaches to the casing. The water pump on my 2006 3l D4D 4x4 is a one-piece unit and a part of it is definitely underneath the timing belt. I bought the bakkie new and the pump has never been replaced.

If the pump consists of a two piece assembly it appears as if you can remove the pump unit without even touching the timing belt cover leaving the bottom casing in place. The replacement pump that I got is of the two part design as indicated on Toyodiy. It does however seem as if I will need to remove the timing belt. I will keep you posted on what I found and further progress.

Another interesting thing I noticed is that they list the exact same part number for both the previous KZTE as well as the D4D 1KDFTV engine.
Last edited by Mars on Wed May 09, 2012 12:30 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Wed May 09, 2012 11:15 am

Could you also please add pics and part numbers :thumbup:

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Wed May 09, 2012 12:41 pm

Will do. As far as part numbers are concerned. According to Toyodiy the Toyota part number for the whole pump assembly is 16100-09260. The pump I bought is a GMB pump made in Japan. The quality of the casting, impeller and finish of the pump appear very good. The GMB part number on the box for the pump only is W19850 and for the pump with the second part of the casing is W19850A.

In the Control Instruments Parts catalogue the pump only is listed as QCP9850 and the pump with casing is QCP9850 BH. The latter is the one I got.

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Mon May 21, 2012 9:34 am

So here goes my first attempt at a report on fixing a vehicle. I did not take as many pics as I wanted too but should have enough to give a fair idea of what to do. I have never replaced a water pump on a Toyota D4D but the basics remain the same. The problem I was faced with is that the pump on my bakkie is a one-piece unit with the left hand side of the pump (when the engine is viewed from the front) is bolted down underneath the alternator bracket whilst on the right hand side there is a portion of the pump housing that extends up and to the right underneath the timing belt cover. This means that a heck of a lot of ancillaries needs to be removed in order to get the pump free. As stated in an earlier post there is another pump design with a separate casing bolted in place under all the stuff and a pump that bolts onto that. Had my bakkie been fitted with the latter it would most probably have been a 2 hour job at most. Sadly someone at Toyota decided to fit the single piece unit thus ensuring that two billable hours can be converted into about 6 to 7 hours or alternatively they managed to get the single piece units much cheaper or probably both!! I really swore at them for a while and then got over it and jumped into doing the job.

Because you need to remove the camshaft timing belt it is crucial that you get all the relevant timing marks aligned before removing the belt and tensioner. How I went about it is as follows:

First I removed the intercooler cover.
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This is to give a better view of the camshaft pulley cover and the cam pulley ultimately.
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Next step is to remove the cam belt cover. It is held down by 6 bolts and is quite easy to achieve. Also note the timing mark (arrow) on the cover (circled).
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Here is the timing belt cover with the seepage that was flung from the waterpump pulley clearly visible.
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Now I got the timing marks aligned. At first I looked at the bottom of the crankshaft pulley area to see if there is a mark but no luck.
Then I found the mark at the 3’0 clock position when the engine is viewed from the front. At the TDC position a notch in the crank pulley aligns with a very prominent ridge/line in the casing. Note the edge of the crank pulley is pink due to the seepage.
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The camshaft pulley has a line in the outer rim of the pulley and the plastic cover behind the pulley has a (not very precise) arrow pointing downwards. The marks should line up on the 12’0 clock position when viewed directly from the front. Just align the line on the pulley exactly in the middle of the arrow. This pic is taken at a slight angle.
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The mark for the injector pump pulley has an arrow on the casing behind the pulley and a notch on the pulley. The problem is that the mark is underneath a sender unit that is located there and is only visible directly from the front. I took a picture with my cell phone camera and here is the mark and the notch clearly visible and already aligned. And here I was always thinking that cameras in cellphones are a waste!
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At this point I disconnected the battery as I did not want anyone (especially my little 3 foot terrorist, who is very keen to help and likes to play in the cab while I am working) to crank the starter! You are also going to remove the alternator later and don't want any shorts.

Now to get some space to work. First I removed the air cleaner to be able to get to the aircon pump and alternator.
This is a (bad) pic of the area you need to work in to remove the aircon pump and alternator.
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Then I removed the serpentine belt. You are supposed to use a Toyota special tool to pull back the tensioner but I found that using a 14 mm spanner on the bolt head securing the tensioner pulley works really well as the spring is not that strong. The tension is released in a clockwise direction (ie. as if you are tightening the bolt on the pulley) Swing back the tensioner and slip the belt off. Then I removed the aircon pump. It is held to a bracket by four M8 bolts with a 12mm bolt head. First I disconnected the wire to the aircon pump and then undid the 4 bolts. A note of warning – These bolts sat like hell. I could not believe how tight they were and nearly ended up stripping one’s head because I did not realise that my no 12 Gedore socket is damaged. (Don’t ask me how but never lend out your tools!!!!) Here is a pic of the bracket with the pump removed. (I replaced the 4 bolts with galvanised high-tensile bolts with 13mm bolt heads.)
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I then removed the aircon pump bracket. This bracket has to be removed to give access to the bracket holding the alternator. First unbolt the plate on top, holding the wires secure, and then the 4 M10 bolts with 14mm bolt heads. Tight but easy to remove. This bracket has an idler pulley attached to it. I cleaned the antifreeze deposits off the pulley and inspected for play or noisy operation. All fine.
In this picture you can see the alternator bracket against the water pump flange (black arrow) which is the reason why you need to remove everything and the two bolts you cannot get to with the aircon pump bracket in place (red arrows).
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This pic of the new pump housing in place has the flanges which are bolted under the alternator bracket circled on the left hand side for another perspective.
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Now the alternator bracket. First I removed the wires from the alternator. Then the 4 bolts holding the bracket to the engine block. Two of these bolts are at the front and are the ones bolting onto the water pump as well. Also note that the alternator itself is bolted to a brace at the bottom supporting it from the engine block to the alternator. Any one of these bolts can be removed. I removed the bolt in the alternator (arrowed).
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The bracket and the alternator is now free to be removed. It is not necessary to remove the alternator from the bracket. The two idler and tensioner pulleys were also inspected for play and noisy operation and cleaned. The alternator pulley was also cleaned.

With the area now open this gave me space to undo the visco fan. I used an old timing belt and a vice grip to hold the pulley whilst undoing the 4 nuts.
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Next was to remove the cambelt tensioner pulley, tensioner and belt. The tensioner pulley is attached with a bolt requiring a 10mm Allen key (which was very tight too) and the tensioner with two small bolts (10mm head). All relatively easy to remove. In this photo of the tensioner assembly it is the allen key bolt in the middle of the image with the two yellow lines and the purple and green dot on. The one bolt holding the tensioner is also partially visible under the round section of the pin.
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Unfortunately the one end of the water pump is under the rear part of the cam belt cover which is bolted to the engine block and cylinder head with a few bolts. There is also a bolt and nut behind the cam pulley attaching the rear of the cover to the cylinder head. This means the cam pulley had to be removed. The bolt and nut is visible underneath the cam pulley in this pic.
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I was really hoping this would not be required as it can be a bastard to get those pulleys off. I used the old cam belt with a vice grip (same as with the water pump pulley) to remove and fortunately I managed to get the bolt off without too much hassles. (Edit: I need to state here that the correct procedure to hold the camshaft is with a spanner when undoing and tightening the bolt holding the camshaft pulley. This is achieved by removing the intercooler (which can also be very difficult as pipes connecting to the intercooler stick like crazy) and the tappet cover to expose the camshafts. The camshaft to which the pulley is bolted has a hexagonal provision for a spanner to hold the camshaft. I will look for a picture to post. This is the safest way to do it and to ensure that you do not wedge on the valves when either loosening or torqueing the camshaft pulley bolt. If you are struggling to get the bolt loose or to torque it this is the method that I advise you should follow. It means quite a bit more work but is still better than the risk of damaging the valve train). Now to pull the pulley off. Before going to get my pullers I thought I would try something quickly. I used the long extension on my socket set to gently tap the edge of the pulley – very lightly – just ringing it and within a few taps the pulley jumped clean off!!! It has a tapered shaft. Sometimes you have to get lucky. Watch out the woodruff key could be loose. It was on mine.
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I then removed the rear part of the cam belt cover and the whole water pump was eventually exposed. The section of pump which is underneath the cover is circled in this pic.
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In this pic the same area on the new pump housing is circled on the right hand side for another perspective.
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Now it was just a simple question of unbolting the waterpump and pulling it off.
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Before doing that I opened the drain cock under the radiator. Bottom left when facing the car and let the radiator and surge tank drain completely.
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Removing the water pump was a bit of a let-down after all the hassle getting there. Have a container ready to catch the coolant which will drain when you pull the pump off. Next I dried and cleaned the area where the pump attaches. Make sure the surface is completely dry and clean. I also removed the surge tank as I noticed a little bit of sediment at the bottom of the bottle. This was quickly cleaned with my pressure washer and thoroughly rinsed.

Here are some pics of the old pump the new one and the two piece design of the new one.
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Then I did a “dry” assembly to test if everything will fit. Here the water pump casing is in place and fits nicely.
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Once it was clean and dry I took the first gasket and lightly coated it with Victor Reinz RTV and placed in in position. Next the casing itself was lightly coated and then placed in position and lightly tightened with the nut and bolt at the extreme right. Then the pump gasket and pump in the same sequence and then I tightened the whole pump. I did not take pics as I was covered in sealant and didn't want the sealant to dry on the gaskets. New waterpump installed!
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Now speed is of the essence because you want to bolt the alternator bracket in place and tighten it so that the rear pump casing can be tightened there before the sealant dries too much.

The rest of the assembly is the reverse of disassembly! I always wanted to say that. :)

Some important issues to note.

It is advisable to lightly oil the bolt, washer and thread of the bolt securing the cam pulley as it is likely to bind making it impossible to get the correct torque value. I held the pulley with my vice patent so you do not want to struggle getting the correct torque and you REALLY don’t want that pulley to come off. Also don’t forget to refit the woodruff key before installing the pulley if you took it off. The torque value is 98Nm.

Refitting the Cambelt.

When my cambelt and tensioner was replaced on 150000ks I kept the tensioner retaining pin. I just threw it in the centre console bin and it stayed there ever since.
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You need to compress the tensioner in order to be able to get the cambelt back on. Take the tensioner and compress it in a bench vice.
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I used a small socket to bear against the piston/shaft whilst compressing it so as not to mar the end of the pin. The end of this pin bears up against the tensioner pulley and exerts the pressure that keeps the belt tension correct so you do not want that surface to be damaged. Push it in very slowly and gently until the hole in the shaft aligns with the holes in the housing and insert the pin or a length of wire to keep the tensioner compressed.
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You are going to pull out the pin when the tensioner and pulley are all bolted in place and the cambelt is installed. Once everything is bolted in place fit the belt. The belt has two lines across the width of it that lines up with the mark on the cam pulley and the mark on the injector pump pulley. This is what the line looks like. I was surprised to note that it comes out much clearer on the pic than to the naked eye. Must have something to do with the flash.
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Over time these marks become hard to see. This is not crucial as long as the marks on the pulleys are all in place and the top span of the belt is tight. Make sure the belt is running in the same direction as before though (if you are not fitting a new one). If you can still see the lines it just makes it easier to ensure that the pulleys are lined up. Now pull out the pin and the tensioner will push up against the pulley and tighten the belt. Here is a pic of the tensioner assembly with the pin still in place.
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Again make sure all the timing marks are all still aligned after fitting the cam belt. You really do not want the valve timing to be out. Read EXPENSIVE into this. Once the belt is fitted turn the engine a little way clockwise and then back and check if the marks are still aligned. The bolt on the crank pulley has a 23mm head. I make this sound very difficult but it is really quite simple and I really do not want you to end up with bent valves.

I finished the whole assembly process and left the sealant to dry overnight. On Sunday morning I was going to fill and bleed the system only to discover that Toyota sold me 5 liters of pre-mix antifreeze while I asked for the concentrate. The system takes about 9.3 litres. It was already in the plastic bag when they gave it to me and I didn't bother to check. I hate pre-mix as firstly I don’t know if they actually mixed the premix 50%. Secondly I don’t want to pay a hell of a premium for their water.

Update on the Coolant. It turns out that Toyota only sells the pre-mix. As I had already started filling my bakkie I decided to grudgingly buy the other 5 litres but only after giving the parts manager a piece of my mind. They then graciously offered to give me 2 liters for free which I accepted. I don't like mixing brands of antifreeze. In future I will go to Volkswagen or Audi and buy their G12+ coolant as they sell the concentrate for the same price per litre as Toyota's pre-mix and ultimately it will be either the same or better quality.
Last edited by Mars on Fri Jul 28, 2017 8:36 am, edited 25 times in total.

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Mon May 21, 2012 9:55 am

Marius....very well documented tx :thumbup:

You don't deserve a medal....you deserve an award :wink2:

:applaud: :applaud: :applaud:

Tx for all the pics and docs :thumbup:

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Mon May 21, 2012 11:06 am

Thanks Ooooms

Even after reading and re-reading the post I still picked up some errors I made. I have tried to edit them all out. :oops:

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Mon May 21, 2012 8:39 pm

Thanx Marnus, this is a brilliant report.
Well done !!!
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Mon May 21, 2012 9:23 pm

Excellent post thanks
Were did you get the torque values for the bolts?
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Mon May 21, 2012 9:45 pm

Thanks for the report and for sharing, when I replaced my water pump two months back it also came in two parts, at a glance it looks similar (stand corrected). Nice job :thumbup: , did you have to use a sealant? Found that the steel gasket supplied was enough, no leaks since it was done.
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Mon May 21, 2012 10:13 pm

This is quite the most interesting read i've ever had...... Well done, how much did you saved by doing this yourself. Secondly, i see its a 2006 model. How much km have you done.... Sounds like you're on 240 000km, as you mentioned earlier in your post about replacing the belt 120 000km ago.
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Mon May 21, 2012 11:20 pm

A job and report well done Marnus! :thumbup: :thumbup:
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Tue May 22, 2012 7:11 am

Indeed so! I think we should start compiling a Hilux Workshop Manual with Mars as Editor in Chief! :)


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Mars
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Tue May 22, 2012 8:50 am

Thanks for the compliments Guys. :cool:

I was looking all over for the information on the Internet and found none so when Ooooms asked me to take pics I thought it would be good to share what I did. I made some more changes to the post including some pics of the old tensioner (which I also kept - bit of a pack rat actually) for the sake of completeness and I also edited out some comments so as not to detract from the value of the rest of the post (and my wife said so.) :lol:

It turns out that the pump is the same as for the KZTE. The original gasket against the engine block was a thin metal gasket with a thin rubber coating on either side and is very nicely made. With the replacement pump I got normal paper gaskets. The instructions in the pack said to coat the gaskets with sealant so I did. The original gasket had no sealant on it and I would not have used any on a similar gasket.

The bakkie has done 198 000 event free kilometres now. The only issue I had was when a rat chewed off some injector wires which I could easily replace as I had similar wiring left from a previous project. One is to expect some wear and tear over time and the waterpump was the first such issue I ever experienced. I am very meticulous when it comes to the service of my vehicles and ensure that all scheduled maintenance is done. I always let it idle when driving fast or after long distances before switching it off as well. I have found that if you look after your cars they will look after you.

I was only really concerned with one torque value and that is the cam pulley bolt. A quick call to my friendly local Toyota service manager was all it took. The rest I just tightened based on my experience gained over 33 years working on cars.

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Tue May 22, 2012 9:04 am

Mars wrote:Will do. As far as part numbers are concerned. According to Toyodiy the Toyota part number for the whole pump assembly is 16100-09260. The pump I bought is a GMB pump made in Japan. The quality of the casting, impeller and finish of the pump appear very good. The GMB part number on the box for the pump only is W19850 and for the pump with the second part of the casing is W19850A.

In the Control Instruments Parts catalogue the pump only is listed as QCP9850 and the pump with casing is QCP9850 BH. The latter is the one I got.
Forgot to ask, what was the cost of all the parts ?

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Tue May 22, 2012 11:12 am

I don't have the invoices with me but about R1300. If I had to buy the full 10 litres it would have been closer to R1400 and if I bought the concentrated coolant from VW in stead R1150.00

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Tue May 22, 2012 11:27 am

Why did you use coolant from VW?
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Tue May 22, 2012 12:29 pm

Rebel 4x4 wrote:Why did you use coolant from VW?
Probably because the pink one from Toyota cost R250 for 5l, you need 2 bottles for d4d engine, so that is R500 just for coolant!
:thumbup:

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Tue May 22, 2012 1:06 pm

No I did'nt use coolant from VW because I had already bought and put some from Toyota in the engine when I realised that they gave me pre-mix i.e. already mixed 50% with water. Like I said above I dont want to pay a premium for their water. Buying the pre-mixed coolant from Toyota cost me exactly double what it would have cost had I bought the concentrate from VW. I ended up buying the rest of the coolant required, less 2 litres courtesy of Toyota as I do not like mixing coolants. Had I known Toyota only sell pre-mix I would have gotten the G12plus concentrated coolant from VW. It is very good coolant...... and it is also pink so it looks right ;-) :lol:

At least now I know I have the real Toyota coolant in my bakkie.
Last edited by Mars on Thu Aug 30, 2012 11:38 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Tue May 22, 2012 6:20 pm

So pink is the accepted "muscular" colour when it comes to coolant? :mocking:
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Tue May 22, 2012 8:01 pm

You've got it! Just look at the colour of the Bulls Jerseys!!! Need I say more? :lol: :lol:

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Real Name: Tumelo Thebe aka Baas John
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Tue May 22, 2012 8:22 pm

:silent: :mocking: :shock2:
Tumelo Maketekete
Donkey, simple and often misunderstood.
We don't stop playing because we grow old, but we grow old because we stop playing!

2002 - 3.0KZ-TE Toyota Hilux (Letebele)
1994 - 1.6i Gl Toyota Corolla (Platkar)
1990 - Gli TwinCam 16v (ZuluBoy)

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The Legend
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Vehicle: 1)1989 Toyota Hilux 2.2 4y EFI D/C 4X4 Full Mikem suspension ,extra long range tank,Duel battery system,31 Bridgestone Duelers 697 A\T FJ 75 front disc with KZTE calipers ,Kurisun PT 8100 two way mobile radio Hi-Lux call sign HC 121
Real Name: Dawie
ORRA Call Sign: X93-

Wed May 23, 2012 5:46 pm

An excellent report.Wish i can get the same report to relace my 2 liter Jetta 5 TDI cambelt.
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“A BAD DAYS FISHING IS BETTER THAN A GOOD DAYS WORK”

“Do what you do so well, that the people that see you do it, will want to see you do it again,and will bring others to see you do it”

Bedford
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Vehicle: Hilux 2.5D4D SRX D/C 4X4
Real Name: John

Fri Jun 08, 2012 12:05 pm

:applaud: Thanks Mars for your post and pictorials re the waterpump change and cam belt replacement on your Hilux. It made the cam belt replacement on my 2.5 D4D a cinch. We need more posts like this to help out the DIY weekend warriors.

Mars
LR4WD, Lockers, Crawler Gears
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Mon Jun 11, 2012 5:52 pm

Hi Bedford.

Always a pleasure to help a fellow weekend warrior. You are very welcome.

rexx
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Town: Hillcrest
Vehicle: Fortuner D4D 4x4 07
Real Name: Chris

Sun Mar 03, 2013 6:49 pm

Just did my 07 fortuner waterpump, the directions were spot on, replaced the origina toyota 1 piece unit with a Aisin wpt-109 that is a 2 piece and comes with a steel/rubber gasket. All for R975. Not bad for what i presume is an original part...

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Pora
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Vehicle: corolla 1.6 96' Hilux 2.5 d4d Custom AluCab'
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Location: JHB

Sun Mar 03, 2013 9:19 pm

I have a question did anyone one here after replacing the water pump send the radiator in for pressure testing?

Had mine replaced and the Tech'y advised me to send it in while the pump was refitted
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Mars
LR4WD, Lockers, Crawler Gears
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Mon Mar 04, 2013 9:06 am

Happy that it helped rexx.

Its maybe not a bad idea to have the radiator checked as the coolant is drained and it is easy to remove the radiator but I did not do it. It is not losing any coolant anymore.

Keith I
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Tue Nov 19, 2013 8:21 am

:thumbup: to the forum. Mars you were spot on thanks for the detailed report i just replaced my 2008 fortuna WP folowing your blog step my step :D: . Judging by the amount of blogs on water pumps i feel that Toyo actually got a missnomer on this one, my vehicles only got 115,000km on the clock since new and the WP already packed up. :oops:

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Tarquin
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Tue Nov 19, 2013 10:02 am

very nice and detailed post :thumbup: only thing is you threw some money and time into the wind, nothing ever happens to the second half of the water pump, like hoppy said you could've left the belt and everything on and just changed the front impeller piece, thats the only one that leaks over time

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Masekind
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Real Name: Drikus
Location: Lichtenburg

Tue Nov 19, 2013 11:15 am

Dit is goed gedoen dankie
Ek soek ook iets goedkooper vir die radiator maar moet werk, daai peink blou bul sous is duur. :surrender:
If you don’t build your dreams someone else will hire you to build there’s
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Mars
LR4WD, Lockers, Crawler Gears
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Real Name: Marnus

Tue Nov 19, 2013 3:47 pm

Tarquin wrote:very nice and detailed post :thumbup: only thing is you threw some money and time into the wind, nothing ever happens to the second half of the water pump, like hoppy said you could've left the belt and everything on and just changed the front impeller piece, thats the only one that leaks over time
If you reread the post carefully you will notice that my bakkie had the one-piece pump on and that is why it turned out to be such a major undertaking. I replaced it with a two part unit so next time it will be much easier. Thanks for the compliment.

Mars
LR4WD, Lockers, Crawler Gears
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Tue Nov 19, 2013 3:49 pm

Masekind wrote:Dit is goed gedoen dankie
Ek soek ook iets goedkooper vir die radiator maar moet werk, daai peink blou bul sous is duur. :surrender:
Jy kan die G12+ konsentraat by Volkswagen of Audi gaan koop. Dit werk net mooi die helfte goedkoper uit!

Mars
LR4WD, Lockers, Crawler Gears
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Real Name: Marnus

Tue Nov 19, 2013 3:51 pm

Keith I wrote::thumbup: to the forum. Mars you were spot on thanks for the detailed report i just replaced my 2008 fortuna WP folowing your blog step my step :D: . Judging by the amount of blogs on water pumps i feel that Toyo actually got a missnomer on this one, my vehicles only got 115,000km on the clock since new and the WP already packed up. :oops:
You are very welcome Keith! Glad it worked for you!

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Tarquin
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Tue Nov 19, 2013 10:09 pm

Mars wrote:
Tarquin wrote:very nice and detailed post :thumbup: only thing is you threw some money and time into the wind, nothing ever happens to the second half of the water pump, like hoppy said you could've left the belt and everything on and just changed the front impeller piece, thats the only one that leaks over time
If you reread the post carefully you will notice that my bakkie had the one-piece pump on and that is why it turned out to be such a major undertaking. I replaced it with a two part unit so next time it will be much easier. Thanks for the compliment.
i apologize Marnus, i didn't see the old pump :oops: :oops:
that's what i get for skimming over a post :blackeye:

Mars
LR4WD, Lockers, Crawler Gears
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Wed Nov 20, 2013 7:07 am

No apology necessary. :thumbup:

steery21
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Town: Mandurah
Vehicle: Hilux
Real Name: Greg

Mon Dec 23, 2013 5:17 am

I just want to say a big thankyou to Mars and everyone on this thread for the detailed instructions on how to change a hilux water pump.

My heart sunk on Saturday and saw a nice pink stain of coolant down the side of the timing cover. I could not get the car in anywhere to be fixed before christmas, but I could get the parts locally from Toyota. Yesterday afternoon I followed these instructions and now I have a brand new pump fitted. I can now take the family away for christmas like we had planned.

Thankyou again, and Merry Christmas to all

Greg

Mars67
High Range 4WD
High Range 4WD
Posts: 37
Joined: Thu Nov 19, 2009 10:03 am
Town: Pretoria
Vehicle: Hilux 3.0 D4D DC 4X4
Real Name: Marnus
Location: Pretoria

Mon Jan 06, 2014 10:09 am

You are very welcome. I am very happy that I could have been of assistance.

Hardus
Newbie
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Joined: Fri May 02, 2014 11:27 am
Town: Witbank
Vehicle: Hilux d/c 3.0 d4-d
Real Name: Hardus

Fri May 02, 2014 1:04 pm

I noticed the same little pink line on the timing belt cover's side facing the water pump and if it wasn't for this post from Mars I wouldn't have known whats up. After noticing it I also saw that the cooling fluid level has dropped a little from normal.

:thumbdown: So yes, also have to replace the water pump. Thank you Mars for your posts. I will be taking on this job next week. I will also be fitting the GMB pump as their prices are quite good (R785 from Midas). Has anybody had any trouble with the GMB pumps?

My bakkie is at 138 000km so I will also replace the timing belt while I am at it! Once again so happy I saw these posts!

Mars
LR4WD, Lockers, Crawler Gears
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Real Name: Marnus

Sun May 04, 2014 7:34 am

Groot plesier Hardus. Die pomp het nou so 50 000 kilos gedoen sonder 'n probleem.

Hardus
Newbie
Posts: 2
Joined: Fri May 02, 2014 11:27 am
Town: Witbank
Vehicle: Hilux d/c 3.0 d4-d
Real Name: Hardus

Mon May 05, 2014 12:34 pm

My Hilux grom weer en alles is reg! Waterpomp, timing belt, drive belt en anti freeze vervang en dit het R1600 gekos. By die agente sou dieselfde parte my R5700 gekos het so ek is heel in my noppies!

Nogmaals dankie Marnus en ek is bly om te hoor die GMB pompe doen hulle job! Soos jy ook sê, as die pomp nou moeilikheid gee is dit 'n baie maklike werkie om weer reg te kry.

Mars
LR4WD, Lockers, Crawler Gears
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Mon May 05, 2014 1:32 pm

Mooi man. Bly om te help.

Mars
LR4WD, Lockers, Crawler Gears
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Real Name: Marnus

Mon Jul 07, 2014 11:23 am

I just added a comment on the correct procedure to loosen and tighten the camshaft pulley bolt for the purpose of completeness and accuracy.

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Philly
High Range 4WD
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Posts: 54
Joined: Wed Dec 15, 2010 11:52 am
Town: Jhb
Vehicle: 2009 Toyota Hilux 4l V6 4x4
Real Name: Phillip

Sun Nov 09, 2014 5:48 pm

Hi Mars.

Awesome report vir die replacement. Waar het julle manne julle water pompe gekoop? Dit is sulke tyd vir my vrou se Fortuner ook. So volgende naweek sal ek dit graag wil doen. Ek het prys by Gemini gekry vir R1750!!byaan Desember Botswana toe so wil nie kanse vat nie..
Dankie
Phillip

Mars
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Real Name: Marnus

Sun Nov 09, 2014 10:08 pm

Ek het myne by Autozone gekoop.

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Philly
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Mon Nov 10, 2014 5:48 pm

Dankie Mars. Myne ook daar gekry vir R990 pomp en housing. Net vir interresant omthalwe. Ek het ook pryse by Midas R910 net vir pomp, Gemini R800 net vir Pomp en Toyota was R1850 (kan nie heeltemal onthou nie) ook nie seker of dit vir die pomp en die housing was nie. Dankie


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mars
LR4WD, Lockers, Crawler Gears
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Tue Nov 11, 2014 7:14 am

Dankie vir die terugvoer. Sterkte met die joppie.

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Philly
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Tue Nov 18, 2014 9:54 am

Water Pomp gedoen Vrydag middag en het amper droog gemaak met die timing, nie gecheck of als weer behoorlik op line toe die belt terug op gesit was nie nie. So dit is baie belangrik om die timing merke te check na die belt weer op is en die tensioner ook op is. Die engine klink sommer nou beter as wat hy geklink het van te vore en trek defenitief beter. (of miskien voel dit net so omdat ek aan die kar gewerk het)
Baie happy met hoe dinge uit gewerk het. Dink dit is ook baie belangrik om die water level te check elke dag vir so paar dae na die pomp gedoen is, want die level mag dalk sak met so bietjie gery.
Weereens dankie vir die raport Marnus, dink sou baie langer gevat het as wat dit het as dit nie vir jou raport was nie.2007 Fortuner is ook 1 unit, so die hele proses soos jy verduidelik het is 100% spot on!

Mars
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Real Name: Marnus

Wed Nov 19, 2014 7:50 am

Philly wrote:Water Pomp gedoen Vrydag middag en het amper droog gemaak met die timing, nie gecheck of als weer behoorlik op line toe die belt terug op gesit was nie nie. So dit is baie belangrik om die timing merke te check na die belt weer op is en die tensioner ook op is.
Ja dit is baie belangrik. Dit is hoekom ek sê draai die enjin kloksgewys en dan weer terug en kyk of die merke nog oplyn.
Philly wrote: Dink dit is ook baie belangrik om die water level te check elke dag vir so paar dae na die pomp gedoen is, want die level mag dalk sak met so bietjie gery.
Goeie punt
Philly wrote:Weereens dankie vir die raport Marnus, dink sou baie langer gevat het as wat dit het as dit nie vir jou raport was nie.2007 Fortuner is ook 1 unit, so die hele proses soos jy verduidelik het is 100% spot on!
Groot plesier. Bly jy het reggekom.

DMH
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Vehicle: Nissan Hardbody & Patrol
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Wed Aug 05, 2015 3:13 pm

thanks for the guide

Mars
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Thu Aug 06, 2015 7:08 am

:thumbup:

Mars
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Fri Jul 28, 2017 8:44 am

Thanks to the idiotic situation with Photobucket (which was never a good user experience to start with and I am being kind here) now requiring the payment of monthly subscriptions for third party image hosting/publication I had to move everything over to imgur and redo all the links to the photo's. I used the opportunity to clarify some issues and tweak the post a little. Hopefully to be more complete and informative.

Imgur is much better and faster than Photobucket could ever hope to be and I am actually grateful to them for forcing me to move to imgur.

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Jaws
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Posts: 479
Joined: Fri Dec 14, 2007 11:41 am
Town: Sharonlea
Vehicle: 2009 D4D 4x4
Real Name: Herman

Wed Aug 02, 2017 8:08 pm

Mars wrote:Thanks to the idiotic situation with Photobucket (which was never a good user experience to start with and I am being kind here) now requiring the payment of monthly subscriptions for third party image hosting/publication I had to move everything over to imgur and redo all the links to the photo's. I used the opportunity to clarify some issues and tweak the post a little. Hopefully to be more complete and informative.

Imgur is much better and faster than Photobucket could ever hope to be and I am actually grateful to them for forcing me to move to imgur.
Thanks Mars
:thumbup:

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Jaws
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Posts: 479
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Town: Sharonlea
Vehicle: 2009 D4D 4x4
Real Name: Herman

Wed Aug 02, 2017 8:08 pm

Mars wrote:Thanks to the idiotic situation with Photobucket (which was never a good user experience to start with and I am being kind here) now requiring the payment of monthly subscriptions for third party image hosting/publication I had to move everything over to imgur and redo all the links to the photo's. I used the opportunity to clarify some issues and tweak the post a little. Hopefully to be more complete and informative.

Imgur is much better and faster than Photobucket could ever hope to be and I am actually grateful to them for forcing me to move to imgur.
Thanks Mars
:thumbup:

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