Alternator for dual batter system and fridge.

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SideKick
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Wed May 23, 2012 7:47 pm

Hi guys.

While I'm busy sorting out some alternator issues, I'm sommer looking at getting a working dual batter system set up so that I can put a fridge in the back.

Now I see the previous owner already had some kind of a dual battery system in place, but how do I test it?

In the engine bay there is this:
IMG_0242.JPG
And in the box in the back there is connectors to hook a battery up. (But they have been covered in tape, so I presume those wires are live.

Appart from how I can test this system, what I want to know is will my current alternator be enough to charge my batt in the front and one in the back? I don't know yet if it will be a normal or deep cycle battery. I still have to read up on that . . .
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Wed May 23, 2012 8:18 pm

In the box one of the cables will be live or could possibly be live i.e. carry voltage, and it should be the red one. So in the box there should be two thick wires one black (earth) and the other red (positive).

Depending on the control of the system/solenoid, on start-up the system should first charge the main battery to replace current lost through starting the truck, and thereafter start to charge the second battery. You are not making mention of a split-charge system so it is hard to tell how yours should/will work. It could also have been manual via a switch in the cabin, please confirm. But in a nutshell that is how it operates.

And to answer your question, as long as the output on the alternator is within spec, you should not have worries that the batteries will strain the alternator provided they are not connected in parallel continuously and if they are, at least one of them is fully charged. A charged battery accepts no charge voltage from the alternator and so the second one will be charged, but as much as possible try not to have them in parallel unless via a split-charger, less headache. Hope it helps.
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Thu May 24, 2012 2:59 pm

SideKick wrote:Hi guys.

While I'm busy sorting out some alternator issues, I'm sommer looking at getting a working dual batter system set up so that I can put a fridge in the back.

Now I see the previous owner already had some kind of a dual battery system in place, but how do I test it?

In the engine bay there is this:
IMG_0242.JPG
And in the box in the back there is connectors to hook a battery up. (But they have been covered in tape, so I presume those wires are live.

Appart from how I can test this system, what I want to know is will my current alternator be enough to charge my batt in the front and one in the back? I don't know yet if it will be a normal or deep cycle battery. I still have to read up on that . . .
Stefan

If you put 12v+ on the little screw on the left and you put 12V - on the little scre on the right it should make a clac sound... That means the solenoid is kicking in.. :thumbup:
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Thu May 24, 2012 3:09 pm

En onthou die rook moet binne bly, as die rook uit kom werk die solinoid nie meer nie!
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Thu May 24, 2012 3:13 pm

Johannes van die See wrote:En onthou die rook moet binne bly, as die rook uit kom werk die solinoid nie meer nie!
Geewheeze Johannes you're full of it hey? :lmao: :lmao: :lmao:
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Thu May 24, 2012 3:17 pm

Donkey wrote:
Johannes van die See wrote:En onthou die rook moet binne bly, as die rook uit kom werk die solinoid nie meer nie!
Geewheeze Johannes you're full of it hey? :lmao: :lmao: :lmao:
I agree something has definitely got him on a roll... :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2:
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Thu May 24, 2012 3:20 pm

8 weeks @ sea......what you expect?
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Thu May 24, 2012 3:21 pm

Since yesterday and it doesn't seem to be wearing down anytime sooner :mocking: :shock2:
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Thu May 24, 2012 3:27 pm

2 weeks to go so I'm trying to stay positive, otherwise I go gaga :excited:
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Thu May 24, 2012 3:29 pm

Johannes van die See wrote:8 weeks @ sea......what you expect?
Sea-weed! :lmao: Oh now I see :mocking:
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We don't stop playing because we grow old, but we grow old because we stop playing!

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Thu May 24, 2012 3:32 pm

You already gaga, unless you mean Lady Gaga? :mocking: :shock2: Not sure which is worse :lmao:
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We don't stop playing because we grow old, but we grow old because we stop playing!

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Thu May 24, 2012 3:39 pm

Thats an idea, never tried sea weed before......
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Thu May 24, 2012 3:44 pm

Suggest you make sure that you have some fuses on the + line - 1 close to each battery.
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Thu May 24, 2012 3:57 pm

SuidWes wrote:Suggest you make sure that you have some fuses on the + line - 1 close to each battery.
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Thu May 24, 2012 5:00 pm

OK. So I took the old alternator that got killed by the mud to get tested. It's not generating a field.

The new alternator's solonoids burned out.

So I'm going to put the new alternator's stator in the old one and see if I can build a working one from the two faulty ones.

Will reply tomorrow with the results :thumbup:
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Fri May 25, 2012 4:55 pm

Donkey wrote:In the box one of the cables will be live or could possibly be live i.e. carry voltage, and it should be the red one. So in the box there should be two thick wires one black (earth) and the other red (positive).

Depending on the control of the system/solenoid, on start-up the system should first charge the main battery to replace current lost through starting the truck, and thereafter start to charge the second battery. You are not making mention of a split-charge system so it is hard to tell how yours should/will work. It could also have been manual via a switch in the cabin, please confirm. But in a nutshell that is how it operates.

And to answer your question, as long as the output on the alternator is within spec, you should not have worries that the batteries will strain the alternator provided they are not connected in parallel continuously and if they are, at least one of them is fully charged. A charged battery accepts no charge voltage from the alternator and so the second one will be charged, but as much as possible try not to have them in parallel unless via a split-charger, less headache. Hope it helps.
Hi

Just looking for opinions again. Had the auto electrician take look at my dual battery system. He says it is set up in parallel with that solenoid in the middle. When ignition is turned off, the front runs off the front battery, and the stuff in the back like the fridge, runs off the battery in the back. When engine is turned on, the soleniod kicks in and then the battery in the back gets charged.

Make sense?

(No switches required. Idiot proof :thumbup: )
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Fri May 25, 2012 5:35 pm

Mine is wired exactly the same, many systems were done like that without a controller, but it really is not ideal. Depending on the output capacity of your alternator, you could run into a couple of issues.

As mentioned, the 'draw' on the alternator (if it's standard) is going to be greater than it's designed for and you could burn out the alt / diodes / regulator and if this happens far from home you could end up being stranded.

AFAIK the controller units will not connect the auxiliary battery until the primary battery is charged above a certain level (for example 80% ... this level can maybe be adjusted). This means that if your fridge has run the aux battery down or it is low on charge for any reason, and you want to start the vehicle, the starter will have only the primary battery connected, which will still be fairly full and starting will not be a problem. However, with systems like ours, the moment the key goes to ignition, the second battery is connected. Now if that battery is run down it will draw charge from the primary battery which then has to supply the starter as well. Even if there is enough charge to do both, you are straining the battery and starter necessarily, which could lead to premature failure on either.

So having a controller fitted is definitely a better option, but systems like ours can still work effectively if you put a cut-off switch on your dash that allows you to keep the secondary battery disconnected during start-up and even for the first 10 to 15 minutes of driving so that the primary battery charge level can be brought up to a point where it no longer draws too much. Thereafter you connect the auxiliary by flicking the switch and then the auxiliary can get charged. The downfall is still that you have no way of knowing when the optimal time is to connect the auxiliary for charging .... you might be too early and strain the alternator or too late and loose charging time which is no big deal on longer trips, but on the shorter hops could mean all the difference between maintaining an acceptable charge level on the auxiliary.

;-)
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Fri May 25, 2012 6:57 pm

Mud Dog wrote:Mine is wired exactly the same, many systems were done like that without a controller, but it really is not ideal. Depending on the output capacity of your alternator, you could run into a couple of issues.

As mentioned, the 'draw' on the alternator (if it's standard) is going to be greater than it's designed for and you could burn out the alt / diodes / regulator and if this happens far from home you could end up being stranded.

AFAIK the controller units will not connect the auxiliary battery until the primary battery is charged above a certain level (for example 80% ... this level can maybe be adjusted). This means that if your fridge has run the aux battery down or it is low on charge for any reason, and you want to start the vehicle, the starter will have only the primary battery connected, which will still be fairly full and starting will not be a problem. However, with systems like ours, the moment the key goes to ignition, the second battery is connected. Now if that battery is run down it will draw charge from the primary battery which then has to supply the starter as well. Even if there is enough charge to do both, you are straining the battery and starter necessarily, which could lead to premature failure on either.

So having a controller fitted is definitely a better option, but systems like ours can still work effectively if you put a cut-off switch on your dash that allows you to keep the secondary battery disconnected during start-up and even for the first 10 to 15 minutes of driving so that the primary battery charge level can be brought up to a point where it no longer draws too much. Thereafter you connect the auxiliary by flicking the switch and then the auxiliary can get charged. The downfall is still that you have no way of knowing when the optimal time is to connect the auxiliary for charging .... you might be too early and strain the alternator or too late and loose charging time which is no big deal on longer trips, but on the shorter hops could mean all the difference between maintaining an acceptable charge level on the auxiliary.

;-)
Hi

I have a 50 amp alternator.

But my actual question if you don't mind. That controller your are talking about? Does it add to what I have in there now with the solonoid and parallel batteries? Or does it replace it? What would a setup like that cost? And can I do it myself with the limited knowlage I have about electronics?

OK, sorry. That was a couple of questions :angel:
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Fri May 25, 2012 8:39 pm

Stefan, my logic tells me that it would 'piggy-back' onto what you already have .... it's just a control unit that monitors the charge levels of the two batteries and controls that heavy duty relay (the one you posted a pic of) so that you don't have the alternator trying to charge two batteries at the same time where both are drawing a heavy charge.

Your standard alternator would then be fine for this, otherwise you would have to increase the alternator output to about 90A and in most cases that would mean a re-wire or a complete replacement.

As I said, the cheaper alternative (effective but not ideal nor completely efficient), would be the cut-off switch on the dash. It would also be prone to error though .... forgetting to activate and de-activate the relay as well as you would be guessing when to start charging the auxiliary as mentioned above.

In terms of DIY, costs etc., I have no idea .... I've been thinking of installing one as well, but haven't got as far as making all the enquiries yet. I'm no sparky, and although I have a pretty good understanding of the basics when it come to electrical stuff, I have a less than rudimentary knowledge about electronics, so I would probably end up having someone professional doing the installation if I see that it is beyond my level of capability.

Maybe the guys who have done this already might be able to give an indication of cost as well as how simple or difficult it is to install.


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Fri May 25, 2012 9:46 pm

Look here, http://www.nationalluna.com/DIY.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; , I'm yet to do this to my truck. Hope this helps :thumbup:
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Fri May 25, 2012 11:56 pm

Hoekom is die solenoids so duur

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Sat May 26, 2012 8:24 am

Willem01 wrote:Hoekom is die solenoids so duur
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Sat May 26, 2012 8:48 am

Willem01 wrote:Hoekom is die solenoids so duur
Remember it's a heavy duty solenoid relay .... not sure of the amp ratings but it's high and it switches almost the full battery load, so there's some serious contacts in there. It's worth getting a quality unit.
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Sat May 26, 2012 9:05 am

80A and it can can be activated for lang periods without overheating, quality product, that's why it's expensive.
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Sat May 26, 2012 9:07 am

SideKick wrote:]

Hi

I have a 50 amp alternator.

But my actual question if you don't mind. That controller your are talking about? Does it add to what I have in there now with the solonoid and parallel batteries? Or does it replace it? What would a setup like that cost? And can I do it myself with the limited knowlage I have about electronics?

OK, sorry. That was a couple of questions :angel:
Stephan, dis basies plug en play, jy hoof nie veel van electronics te weet nie!
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Sat May 26, 2012 10:09 am

Hi guys

Thanks for all the info so far.

Next round of stupid questions:

In the kit is listed pretty much 2 important components:

Dual-battery isolator (Intelligent solenoid)
Dual battery controller (monitor)

What solenoid do I have? A "dumb" one?

This is their one:
large_543_Solenoid.jpg
large_543_Solenoid.jpg (19.43 KiB) Viewed 2032 times
This is my one:
IMG_0242.JPG
IMG_0242.JPG (49.58 KiB) Viewed 2032 times
And if so, then what? I buy that kit. Replace my dumb solenoid with theirs. Add the little controller/monitor somewhere on my dash and viola? Like this?
split-charge.jpg
PS. I see Willem asked why it's so expensive. Where did he get the price?
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Sat May 26, 2012 10:32 am

Yes you have a dumb one, :laugh2:
Doesn't mean its low quality, yours is not controlled by a electronic monitoring system, it must have been controller by some switch inside your cab.

The intelligent controller is a solinoid (isolator), combined with isolator controller.
This controller monitors the state of the main battery and also that of the Aux battery.
Say for instance the Aux battery is not connected, the controller will sense no voltage on the
aux side of the isolator and therefore will not switch on the solinoid. It also senses for a blown fuse and it also
controlles the 5 min delay before automatically switching on the solinoid to connect the aux battery.
It also switches the isolator off when you turn you vehicle off, something that does not happen if you forget
to switch your manual switch off. Forgetting to switch it off will cause your battery to run down due to the solinoid draining power to operate!

Additionally you can add the dual battery monitor that will display the voltages sensed by die intelligent controller, BUT, the dual battery monitor can also send an override command to the intelligent controller to bypass the 5min delay before switching.
The dual battery monitor also has high and low voltage alarms for both batteries and this alarm can also be activated or deactivated.

So, this is why it is called an intelligent system, it senses everything and controls everything automatically.
Your old system can do the job, but you need to manually switch it on and off and you will have no way of knowing what the status of both batteries are.

All n all this is what its all about and its worth spending the money and everything is plug n play, that easy!

Good luck!
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Sat May 26, 2012 10:42 am

My installation..........
Two components, one cable between monitor and controller, and two cables connected to the solinoid, one + from Main battery and one + from the Aux Battery.

Remember to ground your Aux battery to the negative terminal of your Main Battery and not the vehicle ground!!!!!!!
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Sat May 26, 2012 10:43 am

Well, as far as my knowledge goes, the stand alone CH Solenoid is the dumb one. See my post in this thread, viewtopic.php?f=102&t=23060" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;. From what I understand as soon as there is current on the two small points, the circuit closes and current will flow on the large points thereby producing charge to the second battery.

So question then is what to use as a connection point for the small red wire to avoid the circuit being closed the whole time. For this you can connect it to the starter, I have also heard that it can be connected to the wiper motor (on the vigo) with an inline fuse (apparantly this gets charge as soon as the ingnition is turned on). I have not tested any of the above, I am still in the process of acquiring all the necessary components.

As far as prices go, the lowest quote I could get for the "dumb" CH Sol was around R350~R400. I then just decided to pay a bit extra for the smart one. The reason for this (and I maybe wrong) is that when one battery is drained and the other is charged and the circuit is closed there could be massive current flow. I would like to delay this flow after starting my vehicle. The NL provides this function...

Buffel in the above quoted post sorted his system for very cheap...

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Sat May 26, 2012 11:15 am

Johannes van die See wrote:Yes you have a dumb one, :laugh2:
Doesn't mean its low quality, yours is not controlled by a electronic monitoring system, it must have been controller by some switch inside your cab.
Nope. No switch . . . Can't find . . .
Stress: :irate: The confusion created when one's mind overrides the body's desire to choke the living $H!t out of some asshole that desperately deserves it!
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Sat May 26, 2012 11:22 am

Ditch this system and start over, spend the money and buy the NL components it'll set you back little over R1k but you'll
have a reliable automated and safe system, trying to cut back on costs now might cost you more in the long run.

Gooi weg tjom, spaar jouself n klomp kopseer.
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Sat May 26, 2012 11:30 am

Stephan

Sien jou foto, volg die positive draad, dit moet na een of ander control toe gaan om die solinoid aan te skakel.
Dit kan n switch erens wees of die ACC draad op jou ignition switch of iets wat krag kry sodra jy jou voertuig aan skakel
soos die ignition coil of die exciter draad van die alternator.
Volg net daai draad hy moet jou na iets toe vat tensy die iets verwyder is.
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Sat May 26, 2012 8:16 pm

SideKick wrote:
Johannes van die See wrote:Yes you have a dumb one, :laugh2:
Doesn't mean its low quality, yours is not controlled by a electronic monitoring system, it must have been controller by some switch inside your cab.
Nope. No switch . . . Can't find . . .
Stephan, does that solenoid "click" when you turn your key to 'Ignition'? If so then it's already wired correctly.

As I said previously, it's not an ideal setup and as Johannes suggests the best is to install an 'intelligent' system. However, like I said you can manually control that solenoid with a switch on the dash while leaving it connected through the same 'Ignition ' circuit .... by interrupting the circuit with that switch. I think you guys may have misunderstood me, because like that there is no possibility of running your main battery down by forgetting the switch on ... it still isolates when the ignition is off. ;-) All this does is substitutes some of the "intelligent" functions of the controller with a manual function that's controlled by your own intelligence. :D:

Again, like I said, not ideal, but workable.

Furthermore, what you can do is use one of those led switches that will indicate if the switch is either open or closed (whichever you choose) so that you don't forget to operate it.
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Sun May 27, 2012 9:56 am

Hi

I think the simplest way to modify the existing installation, is by adding a timer (most call it a 555-timer) which is a small circuit board, that is easily assembled with a little knowledge of electronics, and installed on the positive side of the small connectors of the CH solinoid. This will allow you to adjust the time that the solinoid stays off after the ignition is turned on, which is similar to what the NL unit does. It does this through transistors that activate a relay, which is what you would use to "switch" the CH solinoid. The NL one goes a bit further, to measure the voltage of the main battery, and will only connect if the main battery is at around 12.7 volt AND it senses a second battery connected - else it will reset.
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Sun May 27, 2012 10:09 am

Mud Dog wrote: All this does is substitutes some of the "intelligent" functions of the controller with a manual function that's controlled by your own intelligence. :D:
My own intelligence deteriorate quickly during n BRAAI....... :laugh2:
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Sun May 27, 2012 10:18 am

Polarbear2008 wrote:Hi

I think the simplest way to modify the existing installation, is by adding a timer (most call it a 555-timer) which is a small circuit board, that is easily assembled with a little knowledge of electronics, and installed on the positive side of the small connectors of the CH solinoid. This will allow you to adjust the time that the solinoid stays off after the ignition is turned on, which is similar to what the NL unit does. It does this through transistors that activate a relay, which is what you would use to "switch" the CH solinoid. The NL one goes a bit further, to measure the voltage of the main battery, and will only connect if the main battery is at around 12.7 volt AND it senses a second battery connected - else it will reset.
Theunis

Ek het al agter gekom dit help nie die van ons wat van electronics weet vertel vir ander van 555 timers en so aan nie, dis grieks vir mense wat nie elektronies georienteerd is nie.
Beste is om voor te stel waar hulle die timer module kan koop en hoe om hom te installeer.

Mens kan baie geld spaar as jy die kennis het van die goed, dis waar, ek het vir twee jaar my dual batery system geloop sonder die NL system en ek het nooit probleme gehaad nie en gese ek het nie daai duur goed nodig nie ek kan my eie ding doen, maar nou dat ek dit aangeskaf het omdat ek wou "fancy" wees, :lol: nou kom ek agter hoe gereiflik en betroubaar dit eintlik is.

Ek se steeds, gooi weg die ou gemors en kom op datum met tegnologie!
Almal wil altyd spog oor n nuwe PC of cell foon se specs maar wil met ou stront soos die sukkel.

Hoeveel dae vra Stephan nie nou al vrae en krap oral rond op sy trok nie.
Hy kon eenvoudig na die naaste Safari Center gery het en die goed gekoop het vir net oor R1000 en dit die selfde dag nog self geinstalleer het, done!

My opinie! :D:
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Sun May 27, 2012 11:38 am

Apologies for the hijack. Thuenis, Johannes, you guys sound pretty clued up. Could I ask that you post a materials list, including that 555 timer, for the semi challenged like myself? (new thread?) As I understand it, I could then build an intelligent system for just over R1K. Thanks

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Sun May 27, 2012 4:22 pm

dax021 wrote:Apologies for the hijack. Thuenis, Johannes, you guys sound pretty clued up. Could I ask that you post a materials list, including that 555 timer, for the semi challenged like myself? (new thread?) As I understand it, I could then build an intelligent system for just over R1K. Thanks
You can purchase a National Luna Dual Battery Controller & Monitor for just over R1K
A self built system shouldn't cost you more than R500

Will look into slapping a self built DIY system together........... :thumbup:
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Sun May 27, 2012 7:17 pm

dax021 wrote:Apologies for the hijack. Thuenis, Johannes, you guys sound pretty clued up. Could I ask that you post a materials list, including that 555 timer, for the semi challenged like myself? (new thread?) As I understand it, I could then build an intelligent system for just over R1K. Thanks
Here is roughly what is all needed:

- NL solonoid kit. Approx. R700.00 http://www.nationalluna.com/intelsol.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
- Fuses (get the larger type) x2 R80.00ea http://www.nationalluna.com/newproduct2.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
- 16mm cable @ say R30.00p/m (buy it from electrical wholesaler) could be a bit cheaper...been a while since I last purchased some) you will neep approx. 11/12m. I use something like this: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1m-METRE-RED ... 4ab6ce9712" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
- Cable insulation (the black stuff wrapped around the cable for insulation) +- 15m (R30.00 for lot)
- Terminal connectors (approx. x6) connectors you connect onto the cable 16mm, pnto the battery @ R2.00 each http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/6-COPPER-TUB ... 4ab69a701b" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
- Cable ties, loooong ones are better (prob only 10 are sufficient)
- Battery box, for the battery R120.00 http://www.pioneerplastics.co.za/battery-boxes" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
- x2 Cable glands (for SFA / IFS if you gave to access he load-bin) seel glands are better! Plasic approx. R7.00ea / steel R25ea http://electriciansupplies.com.au/shop/ ... ts_id=1222" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Optional
- Anderson plugs x2 around R50.00ea (50Amp) http://www.4x4direct.co.za/shop/index.p ... cts_id=230" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
- Spare 50 or 100Amp use (R60.00ea)
- Battery monitors (From R300 - R500ea) http://www.nationalluna.com/newproduct3.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

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Mon May 28, 2012 7:39 am

There is another way of making your setup work without a timer. I had it on Kaspaas. The ign 12v+ that switches the solenoid on must be on a wire that is only charged after the engine only after the engine started. In other words, it does not have power when the "liggies" comes on, only when the engine is running. You could possibly find something like that on the back of the alternator? Maybe some sparky guys can help here..

A little bit of investigation with a multimeter will find you such a wire. Use this wire to trigger a low current relay, which in turn triggers the Cole Hersey solenoid. Easy as pie.. :twisted: :twisted:

In that case you have 90% of the system right there as it is, provided that the solenoid works. :thumbup: :thumbup:
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Mon May 28, 2012 8:30 am

Good idea, Thys! Oil pressure sender unit might do it ... maybe even the temp sender unit, then there is even a longer delay allowing the main battery to get some charge first. ;-)
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Mon May 28, 2012 1:48 pm

Still best to operate a timer or some such, as the Alternator will work hard to top up the original starting battery immediately after start-up. Hence, a 5 - 10 minute delay, when the Alternator has finished this task and now has some spare capacity to charge auxillary batteries.


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Mon May 28, 2012 2:03 pm

Family_Dog wrote:Still best to operate a timer or some such, as the Alternator will work hard to top up the original starting battery immediately after start-up. Hence, a 5 - 10 minute delay, when the Alternator has finished this task and now has some spare capacity to charge auxillary batteries.


-F_D
No arguments there. But with what Stephan has in his truck, without any other expenditure, he can make it work. :thumbup: :thumbup:
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Mon May 28, 2012 2:21 pm

LM555 Power On Delay Circuit

Circuit #2 or #3 is what you need for the time delay.
#2 triggers a relay and #3 triggers a transistor

I built circuit #3 last night for a quick test and it works 100%

To change the delay time you have to calculate the values for R1 & C1

The formula:

t = 1.1 x R1 x C1
= 1.1 x 600KOhm x 470uF
= 1.1 X 600000 X 0.00047
= 310 Seconds
= 5min 10 sec

It's an easy but reliable 7 component circuit used to control the Cole Hersey solenoid.
Enjoy.........
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Mon May 28, 2012 9:26 pm

Johannes

I hear what you say about a National Luna system, as I also went that route after some serious deliberation with what I found in my bakkie when I bought it (much like what is in the thread owner's bakkie at present!)

One can however, with a little knowledge (and patience) save quite a bit of money and have something that you can be proud of. They always say necessity is the mother of invention!

You would add a relay to that circuit of yours, with the coil part of the relay across the positive and negative outputs of it, so that the resistance of the CH does not fry your timer.

The one I bought from Yebo Electronics (here in Cape Town) had a relay as part of it, and there are dozons of applications for it, right out of the box! It is also very simple to assemble as it comes with very clear instructions. Once could even used it for a dome light timer (should your Lux not have one).

See here: http://www.fort777.co.za/index.php?main ... ts_id=8066" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

All for under R100!
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Mon May 28, 2012 9:41 pm

Theunis

Yip I've also come across that specific delay timer, nice one and R70 is not to bad.

Now look at what another person achieved with the same components I used in last nights test.
And it works!
And its allot cheaper than R70

There are so many options......
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Tue May 29, 2012 8:20 am

Ek like julle manne se planne :thumbup: Nou met julle dit net mooi verpak :idea:
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Wed May 30, 2012 10:15 am

Thanks okes, for the diagrams and component lists. As Murphy would have it (in my favour for a change), when I mentioned this thread to a friend, he says " Oh I've got one of those in my car, if you take it out, all I want to keep is the battery and inverter, you can have the rest." Wallah, one slightly used NL intelligent solenoid and loads of cable mahala. I already have a deep cycle, so now can't wait to get home to start installing.

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Wed May 30, 2012 10:38 am

dax021 wrote:Thanks okes, for the diagrams and component lists. As Murphy would have it (in my favour for a change), when I mentioned this thread to a friend, he says " Oh I've got one of those in my car, if you take it out, all I want to keep is the battery and inverter, you can have the rest." Wallah, one slightly used NL intelligent solenoid and loads of cable mahala. I already have a deep cycle, so now can't wait to get home to start installing.
Great :!: Your luck :wink2:

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Wed May 30, 2012 7:51 pm

@Peter: Good shot! Just make sure you run BOTH cables to the battery - don't use the body as earth, as firstly it is a poor earth and secondly, there are other things attached to that (body) earth that would not cope with the possible loads that you will be (even inadvertently) shifting across that circuit [should you turn on the car with a very low second battery, and the solinoid kicks in]. Because it is in a battery's nature to want to be equal, the moment you connect them together, the higher charged battery's charge would want fo flow to the lower charged battery, and like I say, if there is a huge difference, you could shift up to around 90Amps (I've been told). Nothing the system cannot handle, if it is installed correctly.

Do yourself the favour and download the install manual from the National Luna website. Yes it reads like common sense, but they make valid remarks about fuses and distances from the main battery, as well as other little pieces of info that is worth while.
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Wed May 30, 2012 7:54 pm

@Johannes: I think you should start a separate post (sticky please!) with all these nice to have circuit ideas! I tell you it will be a HUGE hit! Especially for us folk who like to help Toyota make their Hiluxes even BETTER!

I made and installed a simple lights on reminder, after 2 flat batteries, and never again was I stuck like that!
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GME Gx300 29meg & Vertex VX2200 VHF radio
Mikem load springs with greasable shackles and polybushes
Monroe Gas Magnum shocks
Kumho Road Venture AT - 30x9.5x15
National Luna Dual battery system
Frontrunner roofrack with s/steel table
Twin rear high lift jack points
Hilux4x4club sticker! ('nuf said!)
Echo3 4x4 offroad trailer with NL 74 Litre Fridge/Freezer
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Zandyl
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Wed May 30, 2012 9:56 pm

Polarbear2008 wrote:@Johannes: I think you should start a separate post (sticky please!) with all these nice to have circuit ideas! I tell you it will be a HUGE hit! Especially for us folk who like to help Toyota make their Hiluxes even BETTER!

I made and installed a simple lights on reminder, after 2 flat batteries, and never again was I stuck like that!
Plenty nice to have circuits.
http://www.satsleuth.com/schematics.htm

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Tim86
Low Range 4WD
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Vehicle: Hilux
Real Name: Tim

Tue May 08, 2018 9:13 am

Can anyone tell me if this is an 'intelligent' battery isolator i.e. will it charge up the primary battery to near full capacity prior to commencing with the auxiliary battery or is it a 'dumb' isolator - it charges both at the same time??
IMG_20180507_194053.jpg
This is out of interest for future possible use as I want to pull it out as it appears to be reducing the charge voltage going to the battery:

At the alternator side of the isolator I get a juicy output of 14.7V
IMG_20180507_194402.jpg
At the battery side of the isolator it is reduced to 13.9V
IMG_20180507_194349.jpg
I have no aux battery or aux wires connected at the moment..
Any idea of why this voltage drop occurs over the isolator?

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Mud Dog
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Vehicle: '90 SFA Hilux DC 4X4, Full OME, 110mm lift. Brospeed branch, 50mm ss freeflow exhaust. 30 x 9.5 Discoverer S/T's on Viper mags. L/R tank. (AWOL) '98 LTD 2.4 SFA, dual battery system. Dobinson suspension, LR tanks, 31" BF mud's.
Real Name: Andy
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Tue May 08, 2018 1:37 pm

I think that's just a heavy duty solenoid / relay switch, nothing intelligent about it. It's probably there to isolate the spare / 2nd battery if you have one fitted.

It may be being triggered by the ignition switch ... if that's the case I would rather put a toggle switch in the cab that triggers the solenoid.Then you can engage it any time you want to. If you have thick enough cables to the 2nd battery you can use the 2nd battery as a booster if the main one runs a bit too low to start the vehicle.

My set up is like that, with the difference that I have a solar panel and controller keeping my 2nd battery charged and the solenoid keeps the systems divorced. By flicking a switch I can connect them to either
• use the 2nd battery as a booster to the main one as mentioned above
• let the solar panel shunt charge over to the main battery
• use the main battery to boost the 2nd if I'm running a heavy draw off the 2nd (like soldering, welding, extra light or whatever)
• or I can use the main battery / alternator to charge the 2nd if I ever need to, especially like when travelling at night and there is no solar power. (I would probably only need to do this if I want stuff in the Fridge / freezer to remain deep frozen since I have run the fridge continuously 24/7 for about 3 months without any shortage of power - thermostat was of course turned down so that it was nice and cold but not freezing).

You might want to consider utilising that solenoid for such a purpose.
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