Engine sitting at 172,000 Km's and with problems

muntu · Post by **muntu** » Sun May 25, 2014 9:45 pm

Hy guys I bought this 2001 Hilux KZTE 4x4 DUD a few months ago for ZAR 110000. As I bought it and drove it back home (around 300Km's I started to note that the turbo was on his way out, it was whistling at all RPM settings and it was loosing oil. I then got a replacement turbo through a shop in Springs, costs will labour R5600. Great truck all sorted out, i drove it to the Drakensberge and back. On the way back the "new" turbo also started his whistling

and leaking oil, so i brought it back to the garage....

The garage says its my engine, piston rings are pushing the oil out into the Turbo.He gives me 2 options: 1) replace all piston rings or option 2) an engine reboare, replace main bearings, replace water pump, replace oil pump and fix the combustion chamber crack on the head. First deal is R7000 but might not cure it and since I have pomped quite a bit of cash into the vehicle, I decided to go for option 2.

They had the car for 2,5 weeks to redo the engine and finally last week they tell my its all fixed. I drive my new machine home quite happily but just before entering my street I hear a strange whooshing sound. I drove the truck home but very gently. I phone the garage. They're telling my a boost pipe must have come loose and they will come over in the morning to fix it. Well I found the pipe that was causing it, the turbo vacuum line.....

Anyway by now the car is just leaking oil everywhere, Leaking out of the gearbox seal (cover plate or the crank seal) and its pissing out of my turbo.

The gearbox leak I can understand, but the turbo I can't. This was an overhauled turbo. My question is, what can cause a turbo to break so quickly?

I never rev over 2500RPM and when shutting it down, I let it idle for at least 3minutes. When it's cold, I keep the revs down by 1400RPM....

Any ideas what the problem might be? There is a SAC chip with intercooler installed on the truck....

Anyone please help? I'm running out of finances with this bakkie......

Cheers,

Martin

coert · Post by **coert** » Mon May 26, 2014 6:20 am

Looks to me, you and me have the same problems looks like we bought other mans s$%^t my only solution is I'm going to trade it in and buy n landy again had much less problems with my landy as with this vehicle. Sterkte met jou probleem. Ek het die punt bereik waar die uitgawes nie meer die waarde van die bakkie regverdig nie.

Post by **Baasvark** » Mon May 26, 2014 9:04 am

I can understand your frustration!!!

The sad thing is that some unscrupulous owner (before you) also traded the vehicle knowing that there was a problem and now you sit with it!

I am sitting in a similar situation - my SFA with Prado was overfueing due to dirty injectors. This has resulted in a total engine rebuild! The engineering works doing the job for me told me that they have another motor there that the owner is going to "patch" and then sell.

So it then becomes someone else's problem (and loss). :evil: :evil: :evil:

The problem is not the brand of vehicle - it's unethical sellers!

It has cost cost you a lot but the next purchase might result in similar problems.

At least you know now what you're dealing with!

Post by **Family_Dog** » Mon May 26, 2014 3:48 pm

Shane, that's bad news, sorry to hear that.

In all honesty, the transformation of that vehicle was well-documented here on the forum and I really doubt the seller was aware of this fault.

Did you replace or simply clean the injectors?

-F_D

Bushwacker · Post by **Bushwacker** » Mon May 26, 2014 4:46 pm

1.72 Million Km :wth:

muntu · Post by **muntu** » Mon May 26, 2014 10:17 pm

Dropped the Lux off this evening.... They're gonna remove the engine in order to fix the leak on the gearbox and replacing the turbo (all under warrantee). Still I wonder what's causing this turbo to pack up in such a short time (only did 2000Km's on it since replaced).

4x4BEES · Post by **4x4BEES** » Tue May 27, 2014 8:42 am

Bushwacker wrote:1.72 Million Km :wth:

JamesC · Post by **JamesC** » Tue May 27, 2014 9:27 am

obviously a typo

172 000

Rebel 4x4 · Post by **Rebel 4x4** » Tue May 27, 2014 7:41 pm

Ek dink 1 720 000km is baie goed vir 'n engine.....

Oupa Stig · Post by **Oupa Stig** » Tue May 27, 2014 8:14 pm

Martin, when you get that lux back, sell it. Just warn us here on the forum. The previous owner had obviously driven it like a petrol and maintained it like our govt does the roads.
Second hand diesels are only for the brave, it seems. Just too many cowboys who destroy them then sell them to unsuspecting folk.
Diesels are worse than women - you gotta take care of them, and if you do they'll give you a very, very long ride. But if you don't they turn on you like a real b**ch.
And if you do not want to sell, get proper guarantees on all work done.

Sad to hear about your 'dud', because these are über reliable trucks if treated right.

Good luck!

Bushwacker · Post by **Bushwacker** » Wed May 28, 2014 7:13 am

Oupa Stig wrote:if treated right.

So true!
Hope you come right

Post by **Baasvark** » Wed May 28, 2014 8:06 am

Family_Dog wrote:Shane, that's bad news, sorry to hear that.

In all honesty, the transformation of that vehicle was well-documented here on the forum and I really doubt the seller was aware of this fault.

Did you replace or simply clean the injectors?

-F_D

Uncle Eric I think you misunderstood me !

I wasn't referring to my purchase. The vehicle was perfect when I bought it from Zepplin and the cause (in my case) was dirty injectors a year down the line. There's no way I WOULD EVEN CONSIDER BLAMING STEVE FOR THAT!.

Coert made the comment that he was going to go back to Land Rover as his hilux was basically no good.

I was trying to bring the point across that you cannot blame the brand if the previous owner pulled it through his backside.
There are those out there who pick up problems with their vehicles, patch them up and then sell them without disclosing the true state of the vehicle. That's exactly what is happening to a vehicle here in our region.

That can happen to any brand, Land Rover, ford etc.

So please excuse me if it in any way sounded as if I was pointing my finger at Zepplin. That was not my intention. I'm extremely satisfied with my purchase and it's just a little bad luck in my case. I foolowed his conversion and he did a sterling job!

Hoppy · Post by **Hoppy** » Wed May 28, 2014 11:18 am

172K is definitely not the correct km, more like 300k+

Mine has 360K on the clock, original turbo, clutch etc. I repaced the top at 310K

I drive mine much harder, it tows a car trailer etc. and i nener let it idle before switch off.

I would rather go for a complete replacement engine from the importers, about R20k, the aftermarket parts used for the rebuild are not up to Toyota standards

Post by **Family_Dog** » Wed May 28, 2014 3:56 pm

Thanks Shane, I certainly did read it wrongly! A year already? And you still need to drive it down here to show me!

-F_D

muntu · Post by **muntu** » Sun Jun 15, 2014 1:13 pm

Finally got her back and no more leaks! When they skimmed the head, the machine had cut a small groove in the head, that's where the oil leak came from. Its been re-skimmed and has a new gasket seal on it. Problem solved. All I need to do now is do another dino tune on it by SAC as it burns too much fuel and doesn't have that extra power as it had before.

I also noticed that engine has a ticking noise when the revs go above 2000 rpm. Sounds like a sewing machine. Also it starts with difficulty, except if I prime her first. Any ideas??

Post by **Family_Dog** » Sun Jun 15, 2014 6:55 pm

The ticking sound is more than likely a sticky hydraulic valve problem. Draining and replacing the oil & filter will more than likely solve the problem.

-F_D

muntu · Post by **muntu** » Sun Jun 15, 2014 7:40 pm

Thanks Eric! The oil and filter is getting replaced in 80Km's, that's when the engine sits on 1000Km's since overhaul. Any idea why she's hard to start and giving that blue smoke on start up?

Post by **Family_Dog** » Sun Jun 15, 2014 9:27 pm

Can't help you on the diesel issues I'm afraid, I'm a petrol head ;)

-F_D

ChrisF · Post by **ChrisF** » Mon Jun 16, 2014 9:40 am

QUESTION -

would an EGT gauge not help to prevent some of this damage - at least give some early warning of high EGT temps, allowing the driver to have it checked out before damage occurs ? OR can the overfueling causing damage without actually causing high EGT's ??

Scott · Post by **Scott** » Mon Jun 16, 2014 9:50 am

Martin my Kzte became difficult to start and on inspection pump bolts were loose and timing moved did adjust and it starts much easier but still not 100% but I am in northmead so it is around the corner if you want me to show you what I mean.

muntu · Post by **muntu** » Mon Jun 16, 2014 8:57 pm

Thanks Rodney, sounds like a plan! I'm busy with work until next week, but will PM you to see if I can make a swing by you sometime next week(when it suits you). For now, the oil and oil filter is going to get replaced as it sits on 1000Km's since overhaul, I hope this will get rid of the ticking/knocking sound.

Scott · Post by **Scott** » Wed Jun 18, 2014 5:25 pm

No problem call me zero8four5two7six3six9 and if I could add my 2 cents I recommend Shell oil.

pietdevs · Post by **pietdevs** » Thu Jun 19, 2014 9:11 am

Just a few notes on how important fuel dilution is and this is caused by injectors that are worn. Viscosity decreases due to contamination, the most common source of which is fuel dilution. Reduction in viscosity results in a loss of the load bearing ability of the oil. This means that the oil is too thin to keep moving metal surfaces apart and seizure is inevitable. A very rough rule of thumb is that typically 8,5 % fuel dilution would drop the viscosity of a 15W40 by about 30% at 40°C and by about 20% at 100°C. Ideally, fuel dilution in an engine is 0%. 4 – 7% fuel dilution in oil is cause for concern while dilution greater than 7% requires urgent corrective action - oil change.
I have my injectors done every 150 000 kms on my KZ and the motor is perfect after 300 000 kms. Just something to consider on diesel engines..... I attach a report from Wear check of a vehicle with fuel dilution and you can see for yourself how bad it is.

pietdevs · Post by **pietdevs** » Thu Jun 19, 2014 9:17 am

Just thought I will show you how good my engine is after all the kms! Toyota bly koning alhoewel party mense glo daar is iets wat so aan sy gat hap!
Attached wear check report of oil analysis on my trusted KZ.

muntu · Post by **muntu** » Tue Jun 24, 2014 4:05 pm

The difficult to start problem was due to the Dastec chip, obviously the mapping is out since the engine was re-done. Chip has been blocked off as SAC won't do a dyno until the motor has at least 5000 km's on it. It starts perfect now, hardly any noticeable smoke coming out.

The engine still has that ticking/knocking sound when revs go above 2200RPM and only when the engine is warm/normal operating temperature. The shims have been checked and crosschecked by 2 different garages, both confirm the shims are perfectly in tolerance (.25).

Next up, to check the shim bucket for cracks....

Weimaraner1 · Post by **Weimaraner1** » Mon Jun 30, 2014 12:20 pm

Have you solved the ticking issue?

muntu · Post by **muntu** » Mon Jun 30, 2014 5:34 pm

Quick update:

Took the Lux to SAC this morning to make sure the engine overhaul was done ok, they performed a compression test (hot) which checks out just fine (doing a cold compression check in the morning). I asked them to look at my injectors. They just called me and told me that 2 of the injectors' tips were burned. All 4 will be replaced tomorrow. They reckon this could also be the knocking sounds as there are no cracks in the shim buckets and the shims were all within limits (intake and exhaust)

To service the injectors/replace the tips will be R2800. Hopefully this will cure the difficult starting and the knocking sound and might even cure the turbo problem.

I spoke to Turbo Direct this afternoon and they're selling a brand new turbo for R3200. Their website says they sell genuine parts....Sounds too cheap for a real 1KZTE turbo, or doesn't it? Anyone dealt with them before?

Will keep you updated once I get the vehicle back tomorrow or Thursday.

Post by **Baasvark** » Mon Jun 30, 2014 7:59 pm

Glad to hear that you're sorted

Due to some stupidity on my side my rebuild will take another 2 weeks.

When I had the opportunity I neglected to have the heads checked as the engine had never overheated so I didn't expect any problems.

Turned out I was wrong!

Engined started beautifully first swing. No timing issues etc but the started pushing water out of the radiator......

Turns out the heads needed to be skimmed.

Anyhow, decided to replace the valve stem seals and re-seat the valves while I wait another 2 weeks for Toyota to source new head gaskets (again).

I honestly didn't think the heads were problematic. Even checked them with a straight edge....

Anyhow, I feel your pain (especially in the wallet

) but can't wait for my truck to run again

Weimaraner1 · Post by **Weimaraner1** » Tue Jul 01, 2014 7:13 am

Ai Martin what a story, I wonder if my ticking noise is maybe my injectors. I am going to take my car to Dastek in Monument Park and they must test the injectors and remap my chip. Will also ask them about the valves.

muntu · Post by **muntu** » Tue Jul 01, 2014 9:59 am

Things are looking up, by the time I'm done with her, she should be like new. Might get her back late this afternoon from SAC, lets see if the ticking noise is gone.

Anyone familiar with Turbodirect and the authenticity of the turbo's they're selling?

muntu · Post by **muntu** » Wed Jul 02, 2014 6:55 pm

Ok got the Lux back today. Injector tips replaced and the compression test showed all is fine. As I drove away from SAC she started to jerk and the engine warning light came on with lots of grey smoke behind it. Turned around and brought it back. They put the diagnostic on her and drove her around. No faults no error codes nothing. The light is out and she drives normal now, no more smoke.

The ticking sound is still there, so it wasn't the injectors. The turbo is going to be replaced (again, number 4 now) sometime next week. Will see if that is the ticking sound.

Post by **Baasvark** » Wed Jul 02, 2014 8:05 pm

muntu wrote:Ok got the Lux back today. Injector tips replaced and the compression test showed all is fine. As I drove away from SAC she started to jerk and the engine warning light came on with lots of grey smoke behind it. Turned around and brought it back. They put the diagnostic on her and drove her around. No faults no error codes nothing. The light is out and she drives normal now, no more smoke.

The ticking sound is still there, so it wasn't the injectors. The turbo is going to be replaced (again, number 4 now) sometime next week. Will see if that is the ticking sound.

Holding thumbs. Hang in there. I know you're getting frustrated but the end is in sight.

Skilpad4X4 · Post by **Skilpad4X4** » Wed Jul 02, 2014 9:51 pm

Maybe it can be the piston protrusion that is to high

muntu · Post by **muntu** » Wed Jul 02, 2014 10:04 pm

Skilpad4X4 wrote:Maybe it can be the piston protrusion that is to high

I'm not that technical when it comes to cars, but what do you mean by that? A piston being a different length then the others? The head was skimmed too much and now a piston is banging it?

Baasvark wrote:Holding thumbs. Hang in there. I know you're getting frustrated but the end is in sight.

Thanks Pieter! I'm sure I'll get her right one day. I'm passed the point of selling and recovering my money, rather fix it and drive her for another 6 years.

Mars · Post by **Mars** » Thu Jul 03, 2014 7:59 am

Dit is baie onwaarskynlik dat die turbo die tik geluid sal maak. As die suiers te hoog bo die engine blok uitsteek en die kleppe tref sal dit net vir 'n kort rukkie klapgeluide maak...... en dan stilte en gebuigde kleppe! Hoeveel kilos het jy al gery met die tik geluid?

muntu · Post by **muntu** » Thu Jul 03, 2014 10:21 am

Daai tik geluid kry ek net as ek boe die 2700 RPM sit, onder 2700RPM is sy stil. Dis nou omtrent 500KM's.

Mr_B · Post by **Mr_B** » Thu Jul 03, 2014 10:29 am

Not sure if it's the same on a diesel, but I worked on a petrol engine some time ago where the head was skimmed to minimum because of bad pitting on the face. This cause a tick tick noise because the valve and piston on one cylinder made slight contact, clearly not a good situation.

Is it possible that the head was over skimmed to get rid of the groove? I believe it's possible to skim the top of the pistons on a diesel, may help.

Did they give the compression readings from the test? Would be useful to know if they are in spec.

Mars · Post by **Mars** » Thu Jul 03, 2014 1:54 pm

Bretton het dalk 'n punt beet. Namate die revolusies toeneem "rek" die conrods meer so dit kan dalk een piston wees wat die kleppe of 'n klep raak as jy oor 2700 rpm gaan. Het die engine so gemaak voor die tweede skim? Wat sê die manne wat die engine gedoen het oor die geluid?

muntu · Post by **muntu** » Thu Jul 03, 2014 3:55 pm

Nee die geluid het gekom na die tweede skim. Die kompressie:

Cold: 1: 25 Bar 2: 28 Bar 3: 28 Bar 4: 30 Bar
Hot: 1: 34 Bar 2: 34 Bar 3: 34 Bar 4: 34 Bar

SAC says the compression test is perfect and the other garage where I had the shims checked said they're all perfectly in limits, except for 1 on the #4 exhaust which is 1.49 but still that is ok.....

muntu · Post by **muntu** » Thu Jul 03, 2014 5:41 pm

There's a guy on the other 4x4 forum with a Prado 1KZTE that has the identical problem. He hasn't been able to find out what his problem is and has since driven 95,000KM's with that same ticking noise:

His video:

phpBB [video]

View Original

muntu · Post by **muntu** » Thu Aug 07, 2014 9:05 pm

Ok UPDATE:

Engine knocking was caused by the pistons banging the valves (skimmed too much). The turbo (number 5 now) keeps on failing due to high compression from the engine (according to Toyota). The (new) piton rings were worn (causing blow by) on the number 1 cylinder (same one which was hitting the valves the hardest) due to oil contamination (from blow by and erratic combustion from the pistons banging the valves)...

Engine taken out again. Crankshaft tested, making sure it wasn't bend, all 4 piston rings replaced with new ones, engine block honed out, con rods/pistons tested for cracks, head replaced and valves and seals replaced. Took it back to SAC to test for blow by (all fine), compression test (all between 400-410 PSI) and water gas test (negative gas traces) and injectors again readjusted.

Just got 500Km's on the clock now since the second overhaul and my oil is still clean (golden brown). SAC advised me not to rev above 2500RPM so the rings can settle (haven't done more than 2000RPM just to make sure) and drive it like that until the engine has 1500Km's on it. Then it will go back again for all the tests as above.....

Although this job is under warrantee, it has become a pain in the ass. I don't blame the vehicle but myself for taking it to a dodgy garage. Looking back at it, I should have forked out an extra 15K's and let SAC do the job from the start.

Positive experience out of this, I got to know my Lux pretty well and have nothing but good to say about SAC Boksburg, I recommend these guys any day.

4x4BEES · Post by **4x4BEES** » Thu Aug 07, 2014 11:01 pm

Glad you're finally sorted out. Hopefully the headache is now gone for good.

Sun Chaser · Post by **Sun Chaser** » Fri Aug 08, 2014 7:31 am

Wow

Martin, what an ordeal. i feel your frustration. im so glad you got to the bottom of the problem, and well done for sticking it out and getting it sorted. Im not sure there are many guys out there that would have gone thru with it.

I think this is a huge learning curve for alot of us out there with diesel bakkies. I know I am one of them that will take alot from all you have posted.
My KZTE, same year model as yours, still has problems with low power and high fuel consumption. it has been a long road with no result. I had it at Allan a few times and he did get the overheating problem sorted and managed to get more power, but that only lasted a few months and after a trip to Namibia, the power was down again.He has done a sterling job but also has tried various things including the throttle. The one thing the guys that rebuild the pump said was, the accelerator was not giving full acceleration.We then replaced it with another good one he had but it still isnt good. I have had the vehicle perform much better and the consumption was better in the past.
The diesel pump was overhauled, injectors replaced and valves shimmed and still no good increase.
When driving and one accelerates,the vehicle pulls , but only on the first third to half pedal movement, after that if you accelerate more then the nose feels like it dips and the engine actually looses power.
Anyway, I see more bills coming my way aswell.
Im glad to hear your LUX is running much better.
Cheers
Ian

muntu · Post by **muntu** » Mon Oct 13, 2014 2:05 am

Sun Chaser wrote: The diesel pump was overhauled, injectors replaced and valves shimmed and still no good increase.
When driving and one accelerates,the vehicle pulls , but only on the first third to half pedal movement, after that if you accelerate more then the nose feels like it dips and the engine actually looses power.
Ian

Ian just a stupid question, have they ever checked your ECU?

As for mine....well back to the shop again. sitting with blow by of 24% on number 3 and 26% on number four. Once that's fixed (either short block being oval or rings broken) I'm giving my Lux the boot. I had enough of it. I've had the D4D and the KZTE, I will never get a Toyota again.....

4 runner oldie · Post by **4 runner oldie** » Wed Oct 15, 2014 5:27 am

Martin . Hope you win lotto etc all the best youve

had enough bad luck .

JohanW · Post by **JohanW** » Wed Oct 15, 2014 9:32 am

Hi Muntu

From what i have read on the other forum and what Francois of 4xlux told me, I think SAC gave you bad advice. Those cyclinder walls in your kz are probably glazed to a mirror finish due to good oil and light work. New rings need to bed in to seal.

My kz got new rings and a hone in the beginning of the year. Francois told me to load up the family or some lekker weight and go drive some passes and make it work a bit without driving it like I stole it.

30K km later I have about 100ml of oil use over 5000km. Compared to 3L per 5000km before.

http://4x4community.co.za/forum/showthr ... t=delo+400" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

muntu · Post by **muntu** » Thu Oct 23, 2014 3:06 pm

Thanks kenskind! You were right, all glazed up like a mirror, the piston rings were fine though. I got the lux back yesterday. When the engine is hot (sitting at robots or in traffic) it appears that it has no power at all. It has plenty of power when the engine is cold. I drove it to Witbank and back today at 2300 RPM (on cruise control) and it worked a bit going uphill etc. I managed to get 200KM's out of a quarter tank, best I have had so far.

The only concern I have is the lack of power when the engine is hot.....The needle is always in the middle and doesn't go up so it sort of shows the engine isn't really overheating (I guess). Any advise anyone?

JohanW · Post by **JohanW** » Thu Oct 23, 2014 4:29 pm

Intake air temperature.

The ecu retards or advances timing on the pump (this is the only thing our fancy electonic pumps can do compared to a mecanical one) and adjusts the amount of fuel via the electric motor on the injector pump (not adjusting the amount of fuel injected but how much you are allowed to flex your big toe).

Do you still have the stock airbox? with the bend to the fender?

I did a couple of tests in april may comparing the difference in intake air temperatures. Without the bend to the fender, intake air was about 50~60 C. With the bend 40~50 C and finally 20~30 with a snorkel depending on ambient temps.

At 60 C the kz does not want to go, even a NA 2.5 diesel isuzu beat me up the hill on a warm day.

I measured it all via a ELM327 OBD2 plug and OBD2 car doctor (android app).

muntu · Post by **muntu** » Thu Oct 23, 2014 4:44 pm

Thanks for the reply kenskind! Yes I still have the original airbox, the one with the bend towards the left wheel well. SAC told me that the engine is running way to lean. With the engine running that lean, that in itself wouldn't cause the glazing, would it?

I noticed today after driving in traffic (stop/go) that the sides on my bonnet are very hot. When I open the bonnet I can feel the heat in the engine compartment.

JohanW · Post by **JohanW** » Thu Oct 23, 2014 4:55 pm

In your first post you mentioned that the KZ is running with a intercooler and a chip from SAC.

It puzzles me that SAC say its running too lean if the can just up the fuel via the chip. With a intercooler and standard map it will run lean. If the boost is too high and fuel too low it can also run lean. Not working hard enough glazes up a engine in my opinion.

I ran my KZ for 25k km with just the intercooler on, ie lean with no problems or glazing.

I'm no expert on these things. I have just read up a lot on it and from personal experience with my KZ.

The rings will bed in with time and power will increase. 5000-10000km and it should start to pull nicely again.

muntu · Post by **muntu** » Thu Oct 23, 2014 5:37 pm

Thanks for all the advise kenskind, its highly appreciated!!!! I had the chip taken out after they did they engine. Now the chip is back in (did that this afternoon) to compensate for the lean engine. I'm not sure what to do, drive it with the chip in (the engine sounds smoother with the chip in) or take it out and run it as a standard KZ. Going to run it for another 200 km's tomorrow on the highway and see what the fuel consumption is with the chip in.

Mars · Post by **Mars** » Fri Oct 24, 2014 6:52 am

You need to get the rings to expand and bed in when you first run the engine. This is best achieved by doing a couple of acceleration runs in 4th gear. You slow down to the lowest speed the engine won't stall. Then you accelerate full throttle. The idea is to labour the engine, not to rev it. Take it up to quite high revs but don't overdo it. Do this 5 or 6 times. This allows the rings to expand properly. After that you drive it lightly for 1500 ks. During running in the emphasis should be on varying the revs rather than maintaining constant revs. Don't rev it too high and don't let the engine labour. It is lacking power because the rings still need to bed in and the tolerances are quite tight. This is normal and will come right. It is better to run slightly rich than to run lean, especially when running in an engine, bearing in mind that other than a petrol engine a diesel runs hotter when it is running rich. Repalce the oil and filter after 1500ks

Mr_B · Post by **Mr_B** » Fri Oct 24, 2014 11:39 am

I agree with Marnus, babying a newly overhauled engine often leads to glazed cylinder walls. Believe me, it happened to me! It's important that the engine is put under some stress to assist the rings in bedding into the cylinder walls.

Here's some excellent reading on the subject: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

muntu · Post by **muntu** » Fri Oct 24, 2014 4:12 pm

You slow down to the lowest speed the engine won't stall. Then you accelerate full throttle.

That's going to create high EGT, something everyone warns you of here. I've put it up for sale. The engine is redone and everything on it is new. No blow by, no faults on it so selling it with a clear conscience, Somebody else can have fun with it, especially running it in.

Mars · Post by **Mars** » Sat Oct 25, 2014 5:38 pm

You've gone through all that trouble and cost and now you are going to sell a really nice bakkie to someone else? The vehicle did'nt fail you, service providers did.

Joe-Tech · Post by **Joe-Tech** » Sun Oct 26, 2014 10:11 am

Howzit..........can you tell me if you replaced the pistons on your vehicle

Scott · Post by **Scott** » Sun Oct 26, 2014 11:05 am

I think it is the luck of the draw.I got a motor from a mate with a manual pump and it runs well(touch wood or something) and have towed the wilk but still need to do a proper test.As to not revving the motor I helped someone start a Isuzu last weekend and he gave it revs so that it would not become lazy.I am a bit sceptically on that.My thoughts is that let it idle for 6 to 8 hours then drive normally.
Started a strip down on my spare KZTE motor and did they cook it.

muntu · Post by **muntu** » Wed Oct 29, 2014 7:47 pm

Joe-Tech wrote:Howzit..........can you tell me if you replaced the pistons on your vehicle

Yes I did, when they first did the engine.

Joe-Tech · Post by **Joe-Tech** » Thu Nov 06, 2014 1:04 am

Just a quick question.......was the piston hights checked when they replaced the pistons

muntu · Post by **muntu** » Tue Jan 13, 2015 7:03 pm

Update:

Engine glazed up 3 more times. SAC (stay away from them) over fuelled the chip causing the engine to glaze up, yet they deny it. The turbo they made me replace turns out to be fine, nothing wrong with it, so they caused me an extra expense of R11,000.

I found out that the guy who rebuild my engine (several times) never send my injector pump in for calibration. I didn't know that the pump had to be recalibrated after an overhaul. Anyway, went to Bosh in Centurion, got the pump checked and calibrated (R2100) and the engine was rebuild again. Sitting on about 800Km's now with no bollie. So all this was caused by an injector pump which was way out of calibration and SAC over fuelling the motor with that damn chip.

Chip removed and she seems to drive just fine with lots of power.

The rear diff was sweating oil a bit so I had that taken care of. Turns out the previous @sshole who owned her had taken the diff apart and never installed a proper Toyota diff seal. They just used some sort of sealant which was causing the diff to leak.