Yupiman663 wrote:Subject: 4y to 4ye conversion help!
4x4megaworldpta wrote:The ecu is the same except that computer connection is simpler.
Awaits the pics of your dizzy.
Hey Louis sorry to bother you again mate but this post sees to have died off?
But I still need a question or two answered, if you would mind helping me?
#1. will the distributor I have be appropriate for the conversion? (Picture attached)
#2. a specific dictator question where does this Small circuit board exactly go? Is this to clean up the signal as I've seen other members talk about? Where would I wire it into my distributor? (Picture attached)
Yes David,
I think Louis is a bit busy, he'll probably reply later but in the mean time I'll try to help.
I'm not the expert on that dissy, but it should work with a modification or 2. Remember that the ECU will now do the timing advance, it will not be done by vacuum/weights/stepper motor any more, so the 2 shafts of the dissy must be locked (welded) together, and all advance mechanisms disconnected. What is important is that the rotor must now be in a fixed position w.r.t. the crank/cam shaft, there must be no relative movement. It is important that the rotor is at the right position in the dissy as well (in line with the high tension terminals). If you turn the crank shaft to TDC, the rotor's trailing edge of the terminal must just be in line with the no 1 HT lead terminal. This gives the ECU the space to advance the timing, i.e. the more advanced the timing, the sooner it will fire and the rotor terminal will then still be in line with the HT terminal. I attach a pic. (Hope it makes sense!!)
It seems your dissy is a 2-coil dissy. The 2 coils are usually connected in series, which gives you a bigger voltage which the ECU can read. This voltage is only used as a trigger for the ECU. The raw signal from the coil is not a nice square wave (which the ECU needs for accuracy), but something like a saw tooth signal. The magnetic adapter converts the saw tooth in a square wave. On the mag adaptor there is a "IN", "OUT" and 2 "GND" holes. The "IN" is connected to the YELLOW wire from the dissy coil. The "RED" wire goes to "GND". The "OUT" on the adaptor is connected to the "GREEN" wire from the ECU, the "GND" on that side is connected to a "BLACK" wire from the ECu (Terminal 9 according to the drawing). I've soldered some wires into mine, then I put it in a small box on top of the engine. It should be as close as posssible to the dissy IIRC.
Connecting only 1 coil should work, but the gap between the magnet and the coil should be as small as possible. If you use 2 coils in series, the gap can be bigger, but it is important that the 2 magnets are lined up correctly to the respective coils, because they must work together. Polarity is important, otherwise they will cancel each other out. I spun mine with an electric drill, measured the coil output, it was about 2.8 v AC on a DMM.
The trigger should accur about 40 - 45 degrees before TDC, to give the ECU enough time to do the calculations and the firing. There is a setting in the software where this trigger can be adjusted as well so that 0 degrees on the software map will correspond to 0 degrees on the crank timing marks (TDC).
Have a look at the drawing, you should get the idea of how the rotor and the trigger should be set up. If you get it going, the timing will probably be out a bit, then you can fine tune it with a timing light.
Good luck,
C
- Dissy.jpg (27.02 KiB) Viewed 7252 times
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but that does sound like good news for me as I have emailed dicktator but there beer must not have run out yet.
