OBDII ERROR CODE C1100

[Obelix and Dogmatix]

Morning All

My engine light is permanently on and the code that I get from the OBDII reader is C1100.

All indications are that is it the front left speed sensor or VSS sensor. We have checked the impedance of the senor and it falls nicely in the range that the workshop manuals recommend (.6 - 1.8 Kohms my reading 1.062kohms)
Checked the other side to get a reference and measured exactly the same. We also checked the measurements at the plug where it goes into the ABS control box and the measurements where slightly higher but still in spec.

The thing that bothers me is that the engine maintenance light is on and not the ABS light as the manual indicates that if it is sensor fault then then ABS light should come on.

So has anybody had this error code using a non Toyota reader? and if so WHAT WAS IT?

Please assist where possible as I would not like to spend my meager monies at the stealers.

Thanks

[Dirka]

Hi Quentin!

Have a look in the electronic (GSIC) manaul:
(The one that is available on the forum)

Under brake - obd II "C" codes (Chassis) and "P" codes (Power train)
So definately a problem there with the brake system (which includes the speed sensors and ABS)

You will find:

DTCs C0200/31 and C1235/35 are for the front speed sensor RH.
DTCs C0205/32 and C1236/36 are for the front speed sensor LH.

So something does not add up now..Could not find anything for C1100.
Generic obd II "C" code for C1100 = ABS Pump Switch Circuit Failure.

Ok..
So merely testing impedance on the wire harness and connectors you're only halfway there.
Speed sensors gives sinewave output on the (front)
S4: FL (Front Left)
S5: FR (Front Right)

What you may try is to swop the front sensors and see if the fault code changes.
2 x ways:
Swop S4 and S5 or..
physically remove and swop the sensors. But be careful! Those things are sensitive and also serves as airbag
actuation. So before doing that..remove Neg bty terminal and wait 2 minutes or so.
U can also try and measure the voltage on the sensors with AC meter:

From the manual:
As vehicle speed (wheel revolution speed) increases, the wavelength shortens and the fluctuation in the output
voltage becomes greater.
(So you'll see a faster ac fluctuation on the meter as you turn the wheel)
Scratches, looseness or foreign matter on the speed sensor rotor (and tip!) cause noise (errors) in the signal waveform.
And also ensure that the sensor clearances between the sensor and front steering knuckle is OK.
It is in the manual.

Since we are unsure about the C1100, I suggest you do the same with the rear ones also.
Get the speed sensors first out of the puzzle. If that shows happiness..then it might be
time maybe to look at the ABS unit.

I know this is a stone in the darkness.. but hope it helps.

Dirk

PS: I use Toyota TIS TechStream with obd II MVCI.

Another PS: It might be that the "C" series fault codes would not be displayed under the 'ABS' warning
indicator as it falls under the "Chassis" parameters..so just normal 'engine' warning light for that.

[Obelix and Dogmatix]

Thanks for your effort Dirk

Been going through the manual myself, but not a lot of joy. I think it may be time to just get toyota to diagnose the system and "quote" me the repair and then take it from there.

[Dadz Toy]

[quote="Obelix and Dogmatix]
Been going through the manual myself, but not a lot of joy. I think it may be time to just get toyota to diagnose the system and "quote" me the repair and then take it from there.[/quote]

And the Stealers rub their hands together, think of a number and times it by 10!


Rich

[Obelix and Dogmatix]

[quote="Obelix and Dogmatix]
Been going through the manual myself, but not a lot of joy. I think it may be time to just get toyota to diagnose the system and "quote" me the repair and then take it from there.

And the Stealers rub their hands together, think of a number and times it by 10!


Rich [/quote][/quote]

The quote is just to tell me where to start looking LOL and then to do it myself.

[Dirka]

[quote="Obelix and Dogmatix]
Been going through the manual myself, but not a lot of joy. I think it may be time to just get toyota to diagnose the system and "quote" me the repair and then take it from there.

And the Stealers rub their hands together, think of a number and times it by 10!


Rich

[/quote]

The quote is just to tell me where to start looking LOL and then to do it myself.[/quote][/quote][/quote][/quote][/quote][/quote][/quote]


Hey that sounds like a plan!!
Pse do share once u got it.

[Obelix and Dogmatix]

Just got back from Toyota and must say that the Halfway guys are great and professional. did not try an BS me about in saying i must repalce my O2 sensors, but that that is the fault I have. R2200 to replace so that can just wait a little bit till find my gold mine.

[ChrisF]

would it help to clean the sensors while your ship is outside the harbour ?

[Dirka]

That's interesting.
Just checked the manual again and the fault code for O2 sensors is definitely 'P' series code.
You sure there were no 'P' series code Quentin? What obd II reader are u using?
Is the quote for replacement of all x4 O2 sensors or just one?

[Obelix and Dogmatix]

It was one I bought from 4x4 direct and using the software that was recommended via cellphone app. And no the R2200 is only for one.

That C1100 code was the only one to appear. From the readers point the sensor does not sit on the engine so the c- chassis make kind of sense.

This sites explanation is about the best

http://www.totalcardiagnostics.com/supp ... r-meanings" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[Dirka]

Heish!
Thought that might be only one sensor. The price sounds +/- correct.

U have number of options Quentin.
Here is a link I previously explained how to test and clean the O2s:

viewtopic.php?f=20&t=39862&p=471030#p471030" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Some recommendations (to cut cost):

I have read somewhere that Midas can sell you O2 sensors at a fraction of the price.
(Think it is replacement ones)

You don't really need the downstream O2s. They are merely there for reference to the upstream
ones so that the ECU can monitor if your cats is fully functional.
You can consider replacing the rears with dummies which is even less expensive.
..and u can keep a spare.
AFAIK all x4 O2 sensors are the same with same part no.

If you know which one is faulty, then use the serviceable ones at the rear for the upstream ones
(closer to the engine) and then replace with dummy.
I think Midas and Autozone sells the dummies also. (for cheap)

Good Luck and keep us informed. This is a good learning one.

[Obelix and Dogmatix]

Thanks I have the 2006 model which only came out with 2 sensors. my main concern it to get rid of the engine management light otherwise i will not know if another new problem arises.

Will definitely go to Midas or the like.

[MCHILUX]

All the 1GR-fe engines have 4 oxygen sensors and the top and bottom ones differ.

[Dirka]

You are correct.
I took the time to research properly..so we can have the facts.



The rear ones are heated due to lower temps in the downstream part of the exhaust.
If the element is gone, (1)HT and +B will read 'open cct'
You can measure voltage when ignition is switched on.

I'll still replace rears with dummies when faulty. It is not used for Fuel/Oxy engine management.

Just a note on these. It references with external 'ambient' oxy through the wire sleeves.
So just be careful with paint/ sealers on them.

The correct Toy part numbers is included in the grey columns - starting wit 89..

[Obelix and Dogmatix]

Thanks having a look this week end

[Mylux]

"Just a note on these. It references with external 'ambient' oxy through the wire sleeves.
So just be careful with paint/ sealers on them."

So would a build up of dry mud might have an effect

[Dirka]

"Just a note on these. It references with external 'ambient' oxy through the wire sleeves.
So just be careful with paint/ sealers on them."

So would a build up of dry mud might have an effect

Less likely with the older ones.
I would not worry about that.
Pse do have a read:

http://www.autotap.com/techlibrary/unde ... ensors.asp" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

With reference to the above site:

"Older style oxygen sensors actually have a small hole in the body shell so air can enter the sensor, but newer style O2 sensors "breathe" through their wire connectors and have no vent hole. It's hard to believe, but the tiny amount of space between the insulation and wire provides enough room for air to seep into the sensor (for this reason, grease should never be used on O2 sensor connectors because it can block the flow of air). Venting the sensor through the wires rather than with a hole in the body reduces the risk of dirt or water contamination that could foul the sensor from the inside and cause it to fail."

[Obelix and Dogmatix]

Thanks, Greg byt my maar net *a* hy weet hoe vuil my bakkie op die oomblik is.

[Mylux]

Me...........never