Hilux 4x4 Forum

Morning gents

I recently purchased a 2001 Hilux 3.0 KZTE 4x4

The person i bought it from told me the bakkie overheated and a resulted he overhauled the motor. Replaced, mains, big ends, pistons, head, injectors etc..

However the bakkie then went into "limp mode" and was down on power and starting building pressure in the cooling system, causing the radiator hoses to swell.

Anyways, i bought the bakkie as i got it for a steal and was sure i could fix the problems.

I found that the reason for the cooling system building pressure was due to the heater core being block. I then bypassed the heater core and the bakkie has no issues with overheating or swelling radiator hoses. Problem sorted.

Now, the issue with the bakkie in "limp mode"..No boost, would not rev up and dead donkey slow. I sent the bakkie to an auto electrician who found a Unichip on the bakkie which i instructed him to remove (im more of a factory standard type of guy). The bakkie ws still in limp mode. We then plugged in the dianostic tool and it through out error code 14. I researched error code 14 and found a host of problems which could lead to this code being kicked out by the ECU.

We suspected it was the diesel pump, but before jumping into the deep end and spending 15k to overhaul the pump i decided to rule out any other issues which could cause the error code.

I checked the crank angle sensor on the diesel pump and found that one of the plugs was in a bad shape. I repaired it and the light went off. Bakkie is now boosting okay, but still does not have the power which my other KZTE has.

So my question is..

What else could be causing the bakkie to be low on power?
Can it be fuel pressure related? Is there a way that fuel pressure could be turned up? If so, are there any repercussions if the fuel pressure is turned up?

Have i overlooked anything?

Is it possible to clean the injectors with injector cleaner thrown into the tank?

Im trying to rule out any other possibilities before i go ahead and replace/overhaul the very expensive diesel pump.

Help will be appreciated

Hi. If the pump timing is out the bakkie will be down on power. The fact that the motor was opened (and the pump runs off the cambelt) it could be out. Have it checked by a dieselshop.

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Definitely check the injection timing.

A worskhop Manager at Toyota told me to use the Wynns Turbo and injector cleaner. The one in the orange bottle so I would definitely try that as well.

Mars wrote: ↑Mon Jun 05, 2017 10:15 am Definitely check the injection timing.

A worskhop Manager at Toyota told me to use the Wynns Turbo and injector cleaner. The one in the orange bottle so I would definitely try that as well.

I have checked the engine timing with relation to the cam, injector pump and main pulley.. All of them are on their marks.

Is the injector pump timing a separate system which needs to be checked? How does one go about checking this?

The injection timing is electronic so should be fine if all the timing marks on the belt and pulleys line up.

Well, the only way to up the fuel pressure or flow woould be with a Unichip...

Maybe get it on a Dyno? or pop in at Hoppy's?

I had the same problem after a service which included new timing belt, injectors, radiator flush and check, new water pump, turbo housing replacement and a few other things. I got it back and it was pap, the difference was dramatic and it would not pull on hills, forcing me to drop back a few gears and mollycoddle the vehicle because it started to overheat under the load. Long story short, drove me nuts and was checked and double checked.
I finally took it to Jeff at Tuneserve in Westmead, Durban. Diagnostics showed no error codes. He put it on the Dyno, and it was way below spec on power. Finally ended up putting a basic chip into the vehicle. Viola, power was back up to par, 89kw at 3000rpm. Truck goes like a dream, uses less fuel, no heating issues.

sasafaris wrote: ↑Wed Jun 07, 2017 9:16 am I had the same problem after a service which included new timing belt, injectors, radiator flush and check, new water pump, turbo housing replacement and a few other things. I got it back and it was pap, the difference was dramatic and it would not pull on hills, forcing me to drop back a few gears and mollycoddle the vehicle because it started to overheat under the load. Long story short, drove me nuts and was checked and double checked.
I finally took it to Jeff at Tuneserve in Westmead, Durban. Diagnostics showed no error codes. He put it on the Dyno, and it was way below spec on power. Finally ended up putting a basic chip into the vehicle. Viola, power was back up to par, 89kw at 3000rpm. Truck goes like a dream, uses less fuel, no heating issues.

But what would cause the stock computer box to just go full retard and stop the vehicle from making power?

If all was well before, why does the computer box suddenly not work to its full efficiency that a chip would need to be fitted to make up for the shortfall?

This is very puzzling.

Not unheard of for electronic gadgetry to give trouble .......

I would do the aftermarket chip and dyno.

You say there was a chip on your truck? Is there a intercooler between the turbo and the intake? Standard there wasn't but I know a lot of owners added an intercooler and then a chip to make it run without huge lag.

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Polarbear2008, I would disagree with the pump timing. Pump timing runs on gears direct from crankshaft. Its only the camshaft running on the timing belt.

Hennie Nel wrote:Polarbear2008, I would disagree with the pump timing. Pump timing runs on gears direct from crankshaft. Its only the camshaft running on the timing belt.

Hennie not to start a slug match but mine looks like the attached photo.

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Pollbear, your picture are 100% right, but it is of the cam timing. (Valve timing)
I have just stripped my mod 2002 KZTE engine. The injector pump got driven by gears from the crankshaft. What you are looking at on your picture is the drive from the injector pump to the camshaft by means of the timing belt. The crankshaft drives the injector pump thru gears. First to a spring loaded idler gear, then to the gear on the injection pump. Then with the cam belt pulley bolted onto the gear of the injector pump with a timing belt drives the camshaft.
Looking at your picture, what drives the timing belt.?
I got a Haynes Repair Manual, and on page 2D-27 there is a good explanation on pump timing.
It is not to start a argument , it is to help with correct info.

Thanks Hennie. Enjoying my large slice of humble pie!

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Your timing may be right but your pump dwell angle may be out. There is 2 screws on the outside which adjust the angle.

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