PCV Circuit Modification

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Mr_B
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Tue Apr 07, 2009 10:49 am

Hi all you clever people,

I'm busy with a small mod to my PCV system, I have placed a oil collector container inbetween the PCV valve and the intake manifold... on the standard system the PCV valve sucks combustion air and oil vapour trapped in the sump into the intake manifold for reburning, the problem with these systems is that on a high performance engine this oil vapour condenses and coats the intake and eventually leads to a pool of oil lying in the bottom of the intake manifold, there is an easy way to overcome this...

So far I have implemented an oil collector container, placed between the PCV valve and the intake, this oil collector has a filter in it that catches/condenses the oil vapour, where it collects at the bottom of the container, the combustion gases are allowed to continue to the intake for reburning... at present I pour any oil collected back into the engine via the oil filler cap every so often... This mod is common practice on high performance/racing engines... then Allan said... 'Why don't you just return the bit of oil to the engine automatically?'... the basic idea is to let as little oil vapour as possible into the intake, keeping the intake clean and the engine performing tip-top!

Take a look at the diagram below, pretty self explanatory:
pcv_circuit_oil_collector.gif
(8.35 KiB) Downloaded 4810 times
To implement an auto oil back to sump thingy, I plan on putting a pipe at the bottom of the oil collector and making an input via the old manual fuel pump opening(presently blanked off). Then I will use a fuel cut off valve of sorts, so that when the engine is running, the oil return to sump is closed off... then the PCV valve can operate as intended... and the blow-by combustion gas can be routed back to the intake manifold for reburning. Then when the ignition is off, the cut off valve opens, allowing any oil in the collector to return to the sump.

A system like this is really easy to implement, I only have one issue to resolve... a standard fuel cut off valve works exactly opposite to what I need, it's open when I want it closed and closed when I want it open... so does one get a cut off valve that works the other way around? The other option is that I use a normal fuel cut off valve and a timer curcuit, so that when the ignition is switched off the cut off valve opens for 5 minutes or so, allowing any oil to return to sump, and then closes again. The circuit would also have to shut the valve off when the ign is turned on, even though the 5 minutes has not passed... Gert any suggestions/help on such a circuit? Anyone know where I can get an elec cut off valve that works the other way around to the normal fuel cut off valves?

Anybody got ideas to help??

Bretton

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ThysdJ
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Tue Apr 07, 2009 11:00 am

WTH is a PCV? :shock: :shock: :shock:
Thys de Jager
CEO and Refreshments Manager at Team Offroad.

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Mr_B
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Tue Apr 07, 2009 11:06 am

PCV = [P]ositive [C]rank [V]entilation... Valve

There is an excellent explanation of it's operation on WikiPedia:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PCV_valve

Read it, it's very interesting(at least to me)... 95% of vehicles have one, yet very few people know about this goody! If it's stuffed it can seriously reduce your engines lifespan, and performance to a degree!

B

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ThysdJ
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Tue Apr 07, 2009 11:08 am

NS :shock: :shock: I S R... :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:
Thys de Jager
CEO and Refreshments Manager at Team Offroad.

2010 Hilux 3.0 D4D D/C 4x4 with GOMAD "Brood" Canopy. Tripod.
1997 Jeep Wrangler TJ 4.0 Sport. The original SFA. AGA... Gooi kole
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Mr_B
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Tue Apr 07, 2009 12:02 pm

Ok I have figured out what I'm after....

A...

12 Volt DC Normally Open 2 Port Solenoid Valve...

That's a mouth full... going to visit HyFlo over lunch... see what they got!

B

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ThysdJ
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Tue Apr 07, 2009 12:16 pm

Oh you need a 12VDCNO2PSV ... I could have told you that.. :roll: :twisted: :twisted:
Thys de Jager
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2010 Hilux 3.0 D4D D/C 4x4 with GOMAD "Brood" Canopy. Tripod.
1997 Jeep Wrangler TJ 4.0 Sport. The original SFA. AGA... Gooi kole
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Jaws
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Tue Apr 07, 2009 12:17 pm

Easy solution:

http://khguan.fotopic.net/c976027.html :thumbup:

I have used the same solution but without the breather pipe , my pipe goes back to the inlet manifold. I sommer replace my filter when full, R15 each two months is not that bad.

Or these guys in Cape town:

http://motorcade.co.za/index.php?main_p ... cts_id=137
:thumbup:

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Mr_B
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Tue Apr 07, 2009 12:31 pm

Neat idea, then I can use a normal ball joint tap valve to allow the oil back into the sump! Cause you can see when it's getting full!

B

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CasKru
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Tue Apr 07, 2009 1:25 pm

Jaws wrote:Easy solution:

http://khguan.fotopic.net/c976027.html :thumbup:

I have used the same solution but without the breather pipe , my pipe goes back to the inlet manifold. I sommer replace my filter when full, R15 each two months is not that bad.

Or these guys in Cape town:

http://motorcade.co.za/index.php?main_p ... cts_id=137
Ag gooi us with a peecha of yours please :)
To God be the glory

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Jaws
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Tue Apr 07, 2009 3:20 pm

Don`t think you really want to see mine - it`s on my Conquest added small boost ( I see Isuzu calls it an altitude compensator) and then started having the problem with oil coming out of the top, after this little mod my intake is much cleaner for longer.
:thumbup:

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ThysdJ
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Wed Apr 08, 2009 1:36 pm

I spoke to Allan about this last night Bretton. After he explained it all to me in plein afrikaans I understand the logic behind your reasoning better and it makes sense. :clap: :clap:

After debating it for a while though, we came to the conclusion that my 7MGE is in no way going to benefit from this, and therefore we are not going to install any such devices to Kaspaas. I will concentrate on insulating the floor-panels of the cab, increase the blowing capacity of the interior fan and rebuilding my rear bench seat to allow a 60/40 split, for easy removal. :twisted: :twisted:

Also I need to build a set of cool roof-racks for the canopy. :thumbup: :thumbup:
Thys de Jager
CEO and Refreshments Manager at Team Offroad.

2010 Hilux 3.0 D4D D/C 4x4 with GOMAD "Brood" Canopy. Tripod.
1997 Jeep Wrangler TJ 4.0 Sport. The original SFA. AGA... Gooi kole
email: thys@teamoffroad.co.za

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Mr_B
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Wed Apr 08, 2009 3:26 pm

Cool, this weekend I will implement my plan of action, I did a whole lot more research on the subject, and have devised a decent plan... I bought a steel container(old powersteering reservior from a Jetta 4(IIRC)) with the correct connections... bought a plastic 90deg thread elbow, a threaded adapter and steel filter/spark arrestor... this assembly will be fitted into the cap of the reservior... I've had the blank off plate of the manual fuel pump housing mod'd with a 10mm pipe as a block breather... I also found out there is no need for the solenoid valve at all... the breather system will work 100% without it!

As will take pics of the job, as I am sure some of you guys may be interested in a similar mod...

B :thumbup:

BenHur
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Wed Apr 08, 2009 6:37 pm

Britney

I have a much better solution for you. Fit a thicker HG to lower your compression to spec and you will have less issues and no need for this cape flats conversions of yours :twisted: :twisted:

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Mr_B
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Sun Apr 19, 2009 11:01 am

I completed my breather system mod, here are 2 pics of the reservior used, it's from a IFS hilux...

With spark arrestor in place...
Image

Spark arrestor removed, filter below...
Image

When the rainy weather lets up I'll take pics of the mod in place in the engine bay.

B :thumbup:

BenHur
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Sun Apr 19, 2009 11:05 am

So where is the pic of the complete installation.

Sorry I see I missed your calls yesterday, I muted my phone in during a meeting on Friday and forgot to switch it back , only realised it last night when we went out as I normally dont use the thing too much over weekends.

Dadz Toy BFI

Sun Apr 19, 2009 11:21 am

Peekchaz :!: :!: :!:

(and of those shiny new Mikem shackles) :!: :mrgreen:

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Mr_B
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Sun Apr 19, 2009 5:24 pm

Ok... the installation picture...

Image

The PCV valve doesn't have to be connected, but it looks better than having a blanked off pipe.

B :wave:

art248
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Tue Jan 05, 2010 8:51 am

cool. so is urs like on oil trap or wat? coz i saw sum of my nissan frontier frens using it. its sold here in my country
i wonder if i shud install it as well?

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CasKru
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Tue Jan 05, 2010 8:53 am

It is an oil trap. Don't think it is necessary but can not do any harm if you do m2cw
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Jan Ferreira
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Wed Aug 10, 2011 8:39 pm

Does the charcoal canister (engin bay left hand side) on the 2700i do the same job as this modification. I was thinking of taking it out and installing an extra battery in the place occupied by the cannister. Good idea or not?

JWM_Jankowitz
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Tue Sep 03, 2013 9:36 pm

Mr_B wrote:Neat idea, then I can use a normal ball joint tap valve to allow the oil back into the sump! Cause you can see when it's getting full!

B
Don't take the oil back into the system. I also have one of these in my 2012 Dodge Ram with a 5.7 Hemi. Our american friends call this canister a Catch Can ;-)
There are a few videos of what a catch-can is supposed to do and most of them will tell you not to re-use the oil.

Check out https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-g2crfnfuKo" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Who wants to push oil back through the throttle body anyway ;-). Don't know why certain manufactures do this...?


Regards,

Mouritz

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