rear gearbox oil seal

Some useful articles on doing it yourself
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lukestrugnell
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Tue Sep 18, 2007 6:18 pm

Hi all

My new lux has a leak on the rear gearbox where it joins the prop shaft.
I have sourced the seal and it was R9 (wow)

My question is:

Is this a job I should attempt myself or should I get a mechanic to do it for me?

If I do it myself anything I need to bear in mind or is it fairly straight forward?

Thanks guys

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SYRON CONVERSIONS
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Tue Sep 18, 2007 9:09 pm

First of all, Luke, do not fit that seal, rather go to your local Toyota Hilux agent and buy the genuin seal from them, but it is for the rear output of the transfer case, what you are actually refering to is the transfer case, you must also buy a new special lock nut from them, do not re-use the old nut.

You must also check and see what is the condition of the drain and filler plugs of both the gearbox and the transfer case, if they look rounded off, rather buy new plugs and new seals.

When you slide the flange off the rear of the transfer case, look and see if there is a small shallow grove in the surface where the seal runs, if there is you have two options, you can have the flange repaired at an engineering business or you can buy a new flange from the agents (cannot remember the price, but I think the last one I bought was in the region of R600.)

If there is a grove and you just fit a new seal and do not repair the grove, the seal will leak again very soon, when you fit the new seal, make sure that it is in the correct position, look at the old seal before you remove it, also smear a little oil or grease on the seal sealing edge before you slide the flange back on, you will have to Re-Torque the flange nut, cannot remember the torque now, but have a look in one of the downloads here.

You must also consider what actually caused the seal to leak, does your vehicle have a vibration on the propshafts?
What is the condition of the transfer case mounting?
When you have removed the rear propshaft, what or how much play is there on this rear flange if you move it up or down or across?
1992 Slightly Modified Hilux, 2008 VW Caddy panelvan work, 2010 Isuzu 2.5 td bakkie for work, a pair of big 'balloons' as well hanging at the rear of my Hilux

simoan

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Riceburner
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Wed Sep 19, 2007 6:05 am

Its a comon problem on hiluxes for the nut to loosen. Just change the seal and tighten the nut to spec. Keep an eye on it afterwards.

davemech
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Wed Oct 03, 2007 3:32 pm

HI,
Maybe a bit late but,,
If the seal surface is worn you can very esily fit a speedy sleve to it.This will be staineless steel and the chance of it re wearing is slim to none.When we replace output seals ,we use a HP seal designed for hydraulic use, (HP is high pressure)
these are a double lipped seal , and are far more robust than a genuine seal.The price difference is not worth talking about.
If you remove your old seal it will have a series of numbers on it ,lets say its 655508 this means that the seal is 65mm outside diameter ,55mm internal diameter and 8mm in height.With this informaton, just contact your local hydraulic parts supplier an buy a seal of these dimentions , ensuring it is a HP seal.Genuine seals are simply a single lip seal that you will ,pay lots for , and will almost surley leak again.
Filler and Drain plugs.........????Still trying to get my head around that.
Cheers,
Dave

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Sifu-Lux
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Real Name: Andrew

Tue Oct 16, 2007 6:58 pm

From an old thread I saved somewhere, not sure who wrote this:

Quote:
To repair this problem is easy, but it just depends on a few factures.Do you have the correct tools

First of all, remove the propshaft, send it away to be checked and re-balanced by a propshaft business THAT YOU TRUST Send them the complete propshaft.

Then drain all the oil from the transfer case,but first, see drain plug at the bottom, but you must first loosen the filler plug but do not remove it completely, then loosen the bottom plug,sometimes you will see that this drain plug has a magnet on it to collect all the loose pieces of metal in the transfer case, make sure you have a container to drain the oil into, once the bottom plug is removed you can then loosen the side filler plug, the oil will then run out easier.

Then use a small centre punch just tap the locking tab on the output flange nut and then use a socket on a heavy duty strong arm or an impact air wrench and socket and loosen this nut, you may have to make yourself a special tool to hold the flange but you can also just use two bolts through the flange holes and get your friend to hold a flat bar between the bolts to prevent the flange turning.

Okay you shood have the nut removed,first check if there is any play on the splines, if not now you can remove the flange,but if there is play then you must buy a new flange from Toyota.

However sometimes these things do stick, you have two option here.

1) Use a puller and remove the flange.

2) Use two tire bars and lever the flange off.

Once the flange is removed, clean it and inspect the seal surface for any marks where the seal runs, sometimes there is a shallow groove.You have two options here as well.

A) Buy a new flange from Toyota.
B) Send it to an engineering firm to be resleeved, but I still prefer option A)

Then remove the seal inside the housing, but be careful to not damage anything, I find that by using an old screw driver, weld a lip on the one side and then by using this tool you can get the seal out between the shaft and inside of the seal lip.

Clean all dirty oil even use a little thinners. But do not smoke when you work on your vehicle

Then fit a new seal, but only fit a genuine Toyota seal, those other cheaper options may be cheaper but do not give you the peace of mind.

Also use a new nut.

There is a torque that must be used when re-fitting the flange and nut, I loaned my workshop manual to a friend thus I cannot give you the specs now, once you have knocked the locking tab in, you can replace the drain plug and refill the transfer case with new oil.

Then refit the rear propshaft.
Sifu-Lux....I will miss you

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Family_Dog
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Tue Oct 16, 2007 7:15 pm

If I remember correctly, Simon was the original author of that helpful thread.

Very nicely explained.

-F_D
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SYRON CONVERSIONS
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Tue Oct 16, 2007 8:17 pm

:)
1992 Slightly Modified Hilux, 2008 VW Caddy panelvan work, 2010 Isuzu 2.5 td bakkie for work, a pair of big 'balloons' as well hanging at the rear of my Hilux

simoan

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Bullet
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Tue Mar 25, 2008 4:54 pm

HI guys
could anyone please assist with the following:What type/spe of oil do I use on a 22R 2,4 petrol gearbox transfercase and diffs.Can I use a synthetic oil and if so which one

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CasKru
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Tue Mar 25, 2008 5:13 pm

Hi. According to my manual you need SAE90 for the diffs and I think for the gearbox and transfer case too
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