Swaziland December 2010

[Traveler]

Here a trip report on our visit to Swaziland.

Before departing I filled the primary and secondary diesel tanks with 50ppm diesel.

On Monday 27 December left for Swaziland from Delmas at 04h00. Drove to Oshoek border post via Middelburg, Carolina, Breyton and Chrissiesmeer. Arrived at Oshoek just after 07h30. Filling in the DA65 at the border post for Customs took longer than the rest of the process with immigration at both sides of the border. There were two difference between the South African and Swazi sides of the border. South African side, all officials are looking at you through thick glass, on the Swazi side you encounter open counters. On the South African side you are disturbing the officials while listening to music on their cellphones and the look you get from them supports the fact that you are just disturbing them; on the Swazi side you are greeted and acknowledged as the reason why they are doing the job.

After the visit to Swazi emigration and paying the R50 road tax we proceeded to the Tourist information centre to pick up a copy of the Swazi Discoverer (a handy little magazine).

What is important is that you keep to the speed limit at all times, when caught speeding you will need to pay a speed fine on the spot.

Next stop was Ngwenya Glass (cannot pass through Swaziland and not stop over), looked at a couple of lovely hand blown glass items, had a good breakfast and continued onto the Ezilwini Valley via Mbabane. On the way we decided to visit Mantenga waterfalls, finding it was not as easy as this destination is not as clearly sign posted as most others we just followed the Mantenga lodge directions.
All I can say is that Mantenga falls is a must visit, there is a lovely picnic area, it is very clean and it lies in the shadow of Execution Hill and the falls a short distance up stream. With all the recent rains the falls were impressive. A visit to the falls will set you back R50pp.

From there we drove past Mlilwane to visit Swazi Candles at Malkerns (the lovely thing about Swaziland is the short distances involved). After a brief visit to the candle shop we left for Mlilwane. Unfortunately the back road I planned turned ran into a swollen river and after about three steps into the water I realized that without another vehicle in support a crossing would be foolish. We returned back to the MR103 and traveled onto a lovely green and lush Mlilwane Game Preserve, the oldest in Swaziland. Mlilwane is not the place you want to go when you want to see the big five, but it has good clean facilities and it serves as a good central point from where you can explore most of Swaziland. The check in process at Swaziland was as smooth as any 4 or 5 star hotel I have ever visited across the world. Since we used Gameparks central reservation our rooms were ready and waiting with keys ready. We only needed to sign and pay the outstanding balance for the stay.

We closed our day sitting overlooking the dam at Mlilwane watching a pod of hippo chase of a huge croc that came too close.

Day two started with another solid breakfast and then reading the coordinates into my Garmin. Our trip took us onto the MR103 through Matsapha (past the Parliament buildings) onto the Sidvokodvo using the MR9 to take us into the Grand Valley. And it does have grand vistas worth the visit. We went via Hlathikhulu onto the MR10 onto Maloma, from Hlathikhulu onwards it is dirt road driving. Just outside Maloma while taking I picture I misjudged my step and fell a short distance down a small cliff, in the process shattering my normal glasses. After Maloma you go over the escarpment and suddenly you are out of the lush green and a more drier and more hot lowveld. After Maloma you join the MR14 onto Nsoko, this dirt road is rather quite and allows you to drive at 80km/h without a problem.

At Matata we stopped at what is suppose to be the largest shopping store in Swaziland, a brand new Spar, interestingly there are two of them a small one and a large one. Prices are reasonable and we bought a few items for a picnic at Big Bend.

After a brief stop at Big Bend we traveled further on the MR8 back to Mlilwane driving through Manzini. Just a small note, be careful of those pesky speed bumps at the entrance to the sugarmill outside of Big Bend.

On day three we left Mlilwane traveling east again via Matsapha, Manzini on the MR3 onto Mafutseni towards Mpaka to stop over at the Swazi Secret factory. A very interesting community project that makes cosmetic oils from Marula seed. They use a cold press method, and your wives are guaranteed to find the visit interesting.

Next stop was our actual destination, Bhubezi camp at Hlane Royal Nature Reserve. You drive approx 20km from Mpaka to enter the Lubombo Conservancy that comprises Royal Hlane and Mluwula Reserve. Your check in at Ndlovu Camp the oldest camp in the Reserve, it has plenty camping facilities but no electricity. Again check in was quick, since central reservations again did a good job.

While I was checking in my wife and my mother had a very, very close encounter with a boomslang. It decided to make use of the bench they were sitting on to move between two trees. It left both of them with rather frail nerves and nervous laughs, just grateful that they did not upset the snake in his/her travel.

From Ndlovu you travel about 13km north to reach Bhubezi camp, a rather new camp built for the Swazi’s by SANParks. It is a much more modern camp with 6 chalets, each sleeping 4 people, and full electricity and overlooking a riverbed with amazing birdlife. On our way to Bhubezi we ran into a sub-adult bull elephant looking for someone that he could bully, I enclose a photo showing his intimidation effort (I am glad that I got to know elephant very well in the Klaserie over many years).

The reserve is split into 3 parts with the elephant, rhino and lion confined to the middle section. You can clearly see the impact of their grazing on the veld, but it is nowhere near over grazed, in the 2 sections where these animals do not get to move the veld is extremely dense and in many places it is impossible to see further than arms length.

Day four we spent driving all the roads in the reserve and say many new species of birds not yet marked in the Sasol Bird Book. Also saw plenty rhino and many other animals, clearly there is no shortage of stock in the reserve. We made a short visit to Simunye to stock up on water and again found a very neat Boxer Cash and Carry (plenty cold beer as well).

Thursday evening we were blessed with tremendous rains turning most roads into slippery muddy trails. This did change my plans as I wanted to travel via Timbakulu onto Piggs Peak and out via Josefsdal onto Baberton. So instead I chose to drive back to the MR3 and straight through Mazini and Ngwenya.

Again our visit to to Swaziland was pleasant and memorable. It is a lovely clean country with very friendly people who at all times makes one feel welcome.

[Family_Dog]

Excellent report, Heinrich! Seems you had a whale of a time... scary part about the snake bit, could have been nasty. Good to have you safely back on board and all in one piece!


-F_D

[george]

Sounds like a awesome trip. How did you managed with the broken glasses

[Traveler]

PS. Total trip distance was 1322km. And I am left with more than half a tank on the primary tank.

Thanks F_D, the next trip is most likely Richtersveld.

[Family_Dog]

Heinrich, I *definitely* would not like to be in your truck, Hilux or not, in that photo with the ellie about to plonk his tusk through you...


-F_D

[Traveler]

Sounds like a awesome trip. How did you managed with the broken glasses

George, I suffered on that point. But luckily would have it that my sunglasses are also prescription.

But I had to get very close to 2 snakes to ID them in the early morning at Bhubezi.


F_D, I have a very healthy dose of respect and fear for Loxodonta. They are never to be underestimated under any conditions, they do kill people. However, bully bulls like this one will intimidate you for hours if given the opportunity. He came even closer swinging his trunk over the bonnet, but Nadine stopped taking pictures.

[Traveler]

Plenty white rhino. Black rhino can only be seen at Mkhaya Reserve.

[Hi-Hilux]

Very nice report, looks like an awsome trip you had

[Traveler]

Thanks very much Trevor. It was a good trip.

............ now we start planning the next one.

For Swaziland we used the Infomap series for Swaziland very convenient with precise GPS Coordinates.

[CasKru]

Nou is ek darem maar erg jaloers... Daai rural areas is waar ek leer 4x4 het

[Witblits]

Thanks for sharing, Heinrich. The photo of Elgar relaxing is an absolute winner! You should enter it in all competitions. And sell it to Toyota for ad purposes!

[Traveler]

Some more pictures.

Cassie, die land is regtig lieflik. En dit verstom my steeds hoe skoon die land is, hulle is nie 'n nasie van rommelstrooiers nie.

[Traveler]

Thanks for sharing, Heinrich. The photo of Elgar relaxing is an absolute winner! You should enter it in all competitions. And sell it to Toyota for ad purposes!

Baie dankie Andre, ek het so paar pics van hom daar geneem voordat hy gesien het ek neem hom af.

[Traveler]

Plenty more pictures

[Traveler]

[Mud Dog]

Nice report Heinrich, and Swazi is a really great place to visit. Will have to plan a trip for myself again at some point.

Nice Nyala pic!

[Traveler]

Nice Nyala pic!

Thanks Andy, that one impressed me so much that I just had to take a picture. Can see he is an old timer.

[CasKru]

We must arrange a outing to Swazi and get the Swazi 4x4 club to take us on an outing. With these outings you really experience the beautiful scenery Swazi has to offer.

[Traveler]

We must arrange a outing to Swazi and get the Swazi 4x4 club to take us on an outing. With these outings you really experience the beautiful scenery Swazi has to offer.

I'll certainly consider going on that one.

[Mud Dog]

Nice Nyala pic!

Thanks Andy, that one impressed me so much that I just had to take a picture. Can see he is an old timer.

One of the most beautiful antelope IMO ... that and Gemsbok. (I have never hunted either species.)

[Traveler]

Gemsbok and eland are the two that are on my list.

I want to one day have two stickers made with the silhouette of an eland and a gemsbok and put that on Dreadnought.

[ThysdJ]

Very nice trip report Heinrich and nice pics too. We also visited that glass and candle factory some 10 years ago, THOSE guys have talent.

the next trip is most likely Richtersveld.

When?

[Traveler]

21 April - 2 May 2010.

Option 01 is Richtersveld
Option 02 is Hwange in Zimbabwe

[ThysdJ]

21 April - 2 May 2010.

Option 01 is Richtersveld
Option 02 is Hwange in Zimbabwe

Nee jy kannie daai tyd gaan nie, dan is ons ook daar... dit gaan nooit werk nie... :razz:

[Traveler]

................... magties, daai sal nie deug nie. Ons sal nie almal daar inpas nie.

[ThysdJ]

nee vir seker... gelukkig is ek nog in die beplanningsfase, miskien kan ek tog iets uitwerk...

[Traveler]

nee vir seker... gelukkig is ek nog in die beplanningsfase, miskien kan ek tog iets uitwerk...

Toemaar, ek is ook nog in die beplanningsfase.

[Dodging]

I just love Swaziland, and it's so true what you say about the differences between SA and Swaziland at the borderpost. Can't wait to go there in my van

[george]

Defenitief op my to do list.
Hoe het die BF's hulle toe gedra

[2.8 d/cab SFA]

def on the to do list, thanks for the information and pics

[Traveler]

Defenitief op my to do list.
Hoe het die BF's hulle toe gedra

Heel goed, kan nie kla nie.

...........behalwe hulle ou trick is daar, as jy hard ankersgooi teen spoed verloor hulle kontak met die pad en sleep dadelik.