Nam, Caprivi and Bots..5000 klms, 3 dogs, and warm beer

Tell us about your recent trip. Please add some photographs.
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Nam, Caprivi and Bots..5000 klms, 3 dogs, and warm beer

Post by mushroom »

So, the continuation of this topic.. viewtopic.php?f=156&t=32363" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;. The ETD was extended by one day, which meant we left on a Sunday. The roads were quiet, and the drive to Lobatse uneventfull. The wait at the border was nice and short, the same cannot be said for the wait at the ATM in Lobatse, to stock up on the now stronger Pula. It seems month end Sundays are spent refilling empty wallets after Saturdays over-indulgence...the bloke in front of me certainly smelt like had indulged in the amber fluid of eternal cleverness all night on Saturday... :sick: :sick:
It was hot...very hot. Apparently October in Bots is "suicide month", and perhaps entering at the end of October and expecting cooler weather was either cheeky, or downright stupid. We cruised up to Kang, wishing I had sorted the aircon out, where we filled up with cheap petrol (R 9.something to the liter !! :thumbup: :thumbup: ), and for the first time ever, got fleeced into buying wet firewood. In a country that hasn't had rain for months they must have searched hard to find wet wood. Then off to Kalahari rest..plenty of livestock on/next to/alongside/crossing the road...
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A very nice place, we opted for the chalet as we were quite knackered.
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Reasonable at the price, with aircon and electricity. This would be the first dog encounter. We like animals, and for whatever reason (could be my stinky shoes),they seemed to find us in the strangest places. This pooch made an arrival in the dark, after we had been listening to the hyenas calling. Needless to say it was the fastest bloody move Nats and I had made all day when the pooch ran out the dark, around the corner and onto the porch. Once my sphincter had returned to normal tension the dog and I had some playtime..
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We woke up early, had coffee and said cheers to the dog. Fired up the bongi and headed north to Buitepos on the Namibian Border. Another hot day, and the beginning of my long list of excuses as to why we shouldn't have the aircon fixed. This was a daily debate, which was never resolved even 22 days later..."Imagine how hot it would be when we stepped outside the aircon car at the border love?.."
We passed through with no problems, and headed to the metropolis of Gobabis. We camped at "Die Dam" campsite. Nice campsite, with clean, but small ablutions. The peace and serenity of the campsite was slightly marred by three blokes, obviously on an extended lunch break, blasting what sounded like a collaboration of Steve Hofmeyer mixed with heavy techno out of a little Opel, whilst practicing the age old sport of pap gooi on the other side of the dam. Perhaps they had hearing problems, or it might have been the brandy..but it was quite entertaining watching them trying to drunkenly catch ducks. Eventually Pa came and rounded them up for bath time and supper in his Hilux bakkie. Heres the campsite..
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Again we were visited by the local dog (I showered in the morning so I cant understand what attracted him) - who we nicknamed Schnitzelhund, being German/Namibian an all.
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Good nights sleep, and an interesting morning packing up. It would seem the avid pap gooiers from the day before had mentally scarred the geese, who decided to stage a mutiny at the bottom of our tent ladder, to revenge the previous days wrongdoings.
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Once over their PTS issues we were on our way up the C30 to the Waterberg Plateu park. As usual, the Namibian roads are fantastic..
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. Just before Hochfeld, we saw a small dam with stuff on/in it. On closer inspection we were stumped to see that it was full of flamingo's !!! sorry, no pics, too far away and I have size issues (with my camera lens that is..)
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Re: Nam, Caprivi and Bots..5000 klms, 3 dogs, and warm beer

Post by mushroom »

Some shots on the way to the Waterberg...
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Arrived at the campsite..time for moan session #1: NWR (Namibian wildlife reservations..or otherwise Not Working, Really). Dialogue as follows:
"No ice in the shop, but you can go fetch some up at the restaurant, we dont have a freezer"..."but my tent is out, cant you ask one of the 300 NWR blokes racing around in open back vehicles, exceeding the speed limit, to please bring one bag down for me"..."eish, click, eish...." eventually fetched it myself. It was here that I heard a phrase that pretty much describes the lack of urgency or care (cos after all, we are ripping you tourists a whole new ringpiece in camping fees :thumbdown: :thumbdown: :thumbdown: ). On collection of my bag of small ice cubes I was told " the freezer is broken, but dont worry, they are coming to fix it shortly.....next week !!!" Africa time, you gotta love it.
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That evening, without meeting a dog, we were entertained by a group of hippie overlanders from Europe somewhere, doing some strange dancing in a circle to Jonny Clegg tracks blasting out a little cd player. The lip synching was interesting, cos not only do they not know the words, some of them didnt even speak English, let alone isiZulu. Then the John Lennon wannabe pulled out his six string guitar, and they proceeded to sing Kumbayaaa and other campsite hits around the fire. At least the lad could play the guitar, which was a damn sight better than their dancing and singing. I was quite happy to be on the road to Etosha the next day, but I couldnt get that damn Jonny Cleg track out my head "Osiyeza, osiyeza..." - anyway, onwards and upwards through Otjiwarongo and Outjo to Okaukuejo. On the road we met an Eland calf who honestly thought he was a cow..
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And finally the entrance gate
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After another frustrating NWR encounter at the gate we headed into the park. The campsite is okay, it has less shade than Nagasaki after the delivery of the "bomb", but a great swimming pool, and a decent shop which had ice and stuff. We headed out on a game drive and found this ol bugger, nursing a giraffe that died of old age, seeing out his last days as an old male lion with no teeth..
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On the way back to the camp, this dog (not the type I would be keen to play with) awoke from his culvert to go and scrounge around for dead things.
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Re: Nam, Caprivi and Bots..5000 klms, 3 dogs, and warm beer

Post by Donkey »

Hmmm you stirring up some lovely memories up that way last year, thanks for sharing. Now I'm itching to go now :slap:




















Eish!
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Re: Nam, Caprivi and Bots..5000 klms, 3 dogs, and warm beer

Post by Big D »

We need more
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Re: Nam, Caprivi and Bots..5000 klms, 3 dogs, and warm beer

Post by Genissie »

awesome, i am jelious, but don't stop now, continue pls...
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Re: Nam, Caprivi and Bots..5000 klms, 3 dogs, and warm beer

Post by mushroom »

Hahahaha Donkey.....I stood on the beach you blokes got stuck on last year I think...needless to say I didnt even try go down there, thanks for the headsup :thumbup: :thumbup:

Will continue the TR shortly
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Re: Nam, Caprivi and Bots..5000 klms, 3 dogs, and warm beer

Post by GI Jane »

Thanks James.... makes me wish I was on the road.... :cry: :cry: :cry: , but something to look forward to. Also must admit though those NWR officials are really getting slack. Have'nt heard any good experiences by anyone in years... such a pity...
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Re: Nam, Caprivi and Bots..5000 klms, 3 dogs, and warm beer

Post by mushroom »

As mentioned, shade is at a premium in Okaukuejo....
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Needless to say this Park delivered the goods. Its drier than Vanzylsrus biltong, and hence all the game gathers around the few waterholes scattered around the park.
I mean, where do you see 4 lion, two black rhino and two elephant drinking from the same waterhole. After a couple of cold ones, once the creativity was flowing, we agreed that there's a baboon in dark sunglasses and a directors chair hidden in the bushes, and that this is all one big act..." Hey, you black rhino buggers are running late, the crowd is getting bored...hyena, get ready ol chap, youre in the mix next"..kinda thing. Needless to say it was magic, the whole place was magic !! :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: The campsite had its resident scroungers at night, jackal. Sidestepping around the light of the campfire the little guys nipping in to a camp every now and then to nick any morsel left behind by the overweight German overlanders
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After two nights in Okaukuejo, we moved onto the shadier, and nicer Halali campsite. This was pleasant.
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On Nats' wishlist for this trip was brown hyena and honeybadger...both tricky to find at the best of times. Not so much at Halali. The evening scavengers in the campsite happen to be badgers, and lots of them !! The sunsets are wicked..
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The next day we met the Etosha ladies book club, chilling out under a tree..
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Then off to Namutoni for the last two nights, and the first clouds we had seen in days, the promise of rain...
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This campsite is shady, and funnily enough, has some grass in places. On the morning after arrival we heard heavy engine revving, followed shortly by a couple of very loud gunshots. Initial thoughts were that perhaps someone had enough of NWR, got aggro in their car and then shot the gate attendant. Lucky for him/them it was just the camp staff chasing an elephant that had broken the fence and was munching away on some of the greenery in the campsite. I have a new respect for elephants. They are clever. Somewhat brighter than the NWR folk, thats for sure. It wasnt 12 hours later and he was back in the camp again. He remebered where the hole he had made was, faster than the NWR folks could fix it... ("fixing it shortly.....next year"....)
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It was at this point, that the CTek D250S that I had installed, decided to give up the ghost. All the lights went off, and there was a distinct smell of melting plastic/pc board etc.. coming from the box...here begins the tale of warm beer.....
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Re: Nam, Caprivi and Bots..5000 klms, 3 dogs, and warm beer

Post by Donkey »

Warm beers in that heat! :shock2: :thumbdown: Geeewhez :alvarin:
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Re: Nam, Caprivi and Bots..5000 klms, 3 dogs, and warm beer

Post by Sebata »

going all nostalgic now..... :drool:
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Re: Nam, Caprivi and Bots..5000 klms, 3 dogs, and warm beer

Post by Donkey »

Neh?
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Re: Nam, Caprivi and Bots..5000 klms, 3 dogs, and warm beer

Post by Haboob »

Thanks for sharing the informative trip report. The familiarity of the places is nostalgic. The campsite at Namutoni looks like the one we used there as well. Great report so far & looking forward to the rest of the report.
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Re: Nam, Caprivi and Bots..5000 klms, 3 dogs, and warm beer

Post by mushroom »

After a couple of SMS's back home to a mate, and a quick call back from him the decision was to wire the aux battery straight up to the main battery...with explicit instructions NOT to leave the fridge running whilst the car was off for too long. I also formed a close bond to my 12 & 13 spanners, we're good mates now :lol: :lol: . Heres the fence hopping ellie
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Now, too move off subject slightly..since the existence of man, and possibly prior to that, torture has been an effective way of making someones life really miserable in order to obtain information etc...What we saw pull into Okaukuejo campsite would scare the bejeezus out of most of us. If you wanted to torture me just book me on this bugger for a 6 month drive through Africa...Ill be singing like a canary..
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Das Rollende Hotel (the rolling hotel), or Rotel, for short, came rolling (obviously) into the camp, at which point an excessive number of German tourist flowed out the door before she even stopped moving. This quantity of people made the task of daily ablutions quite interesting...
Anyway, back to business. We left Etosha after 6 nights and headed up to Rundu, via Tsumeb and Grootfontein. Having not booked accomodation we decided to pop in at a couple of places to see what was available. I dont want to bad mouth the first two places, so I would rather HIGHLY recommend Kaisosi. Great campsite, good restaurant/pub area and a lovely deck over the Kavango river..
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Stocked up on stuff in Rundu, theres a good SPAR there and in general the town has everything you would need...like ice for the beers. We then headed down the Caprivi towards Bagani, the Popa falls, and arguably the funkiest campsite in the SADC countries, Ngepi camp !! These are Cruiser folks, and take any opportunity to give the Landie guys a revving..
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Awesome campsite, free WiFi, and some interesting ablutions..
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Campsites are right on the river, allowing you to see this in the morning from your tent :thumbup: :thumbup:
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Re: Nam, Caprivi and Bots..5000 klms, 3 dogs, and warm beer

Post by mushroom »

Dog #3 made an appearance at Ngepi, and the ol girl stayed in our campsite for two days, popping off to eat (and do other dog things) now and then, and bark at the hippos if they came to close.
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We did a day drive into Mahango NP which is just down the road. Saw a decent herd of Roan antelope and a couple of other things. We then headed back across the river, and stopped in at what I think was the infamous "beach" that donkey became well acquainted with at Popa falls. Theyre more like rapids, but still worth seeing..
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Having learnt from Donkeys lesson I did not try and venture down into the soft stuff. We headed down the strip to Kongola, and the turn off to the C49. Theres a petrol station here, and a toilet that costs N$ 2 for either type of relief that is sought. Theres also a comprehensive trading store, and this chicken place...
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We figured that you might want a pocket full of N$ 2 coins after eating there, could be wrong, but wasnt going to try...from here we headed down the C49 towards Mudumo. This road is currently being tarred, which is a pity as it weaves through some nice country. We opted to stay at Namushasa campsite that night. Great little campsite right on the river. Well run by a colorfull bloke called Eugene, who "almost have 4 children, and almost 3 oxen...and it will almost rain on the 15th Nov at which point I will plough..thank you"
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After chatting to the lodge folk, it was decided to rather get back onto the tar at Kongola, and head on the B8 to Katima Mulilo, as the road works would make for a VERY long day driving the C49. We followed this advice, and arrived in a sweltering Katima 2 hours later.
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We booked into the Zambezi river lodge, a Protea hotel thingy, for the night in order to refreeze bottles and food, and also to enjoy some aircon...it was hotter and more humid than a Bombay longdrop in mango season in Katima. If youre in for a decent meal head down to the Baobab Bistro in the main street. Elda does good chow, and also has a self catering cottage if you need it.
From here we took the short drive to Ngoma bridge back into Botswana.
Time for moan session #2:Being of reasonable intelligence, and having an understanding of crop/livestock diseases and how they are spread, Im always stumped at the Botswana vet fence procedures, or lack of them.We had no fresh foodstuffs on us, nor did we have any "hidden", but relieving me of my firewood....thats excessive :thumbdown: :thumbdown: especially considering that most of it was the wet Botswana wood I had bought 2 weeks earlier in Kang..Interestingly enough the pile that I had to put my wood on looked pretty slim, either no-one was bringing wood across (unlikely), or it was being sold to people going the other way, or used. This would be the first of many interesting debates at vet control points....
Anyhow, moan over, onto Chobe, our favorite reserve, and Ihaha campsite for 3 nights..
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Re: Nam, Caprivi and Bots..5000 klms, 3 dogs, and warm beer

Post by mushroom »

After witnessing a lion kill here last year (viewtopic.php?f=4&t=27646&start=0" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;) I honestly thought we had seen it all. Well, Chobe is special. We sat and watched these two girls, and one of them woke up and started taking interest in a herd of zebra on the floodplains.
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What follows is the stalk, the crouch, the chase...which turned out to be unsuccessful, but still amazing to watch :thumbup: :thumbup:
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There was plenty of game around. What did leave a sour taste in my mouth was the poachers huts on the Namibian side that have "mushroomed" up. We witnessed them chasing a herd of buffalo on the other side. Initially we thought they merely wanted them off their grazing, but were shocked when two blokes started spearing a young buffalo as the herd crossed back over to the Bots side. We had to sit and listen to this beast gurgle a slow bleating death for about 2 hours. They came back under the cover of darkness to butcher the meat up. My moer meter topped out and I was giving both the DWNP and the camp officials stick about this horrific incident...the answers I got back?..."eish, ja, those people...we cant do anything.." My suggestion is to visit this place fast, cos the future doesn't look bright for Ihaha campsite and the Chobe NP.
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Re: Nam, Caprivi and Bots..5000 klms, 3 dogs, and warm beer

Post by Big D »

Baie Nice! Do you have the route on google earth format?
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Re: Nam, Caprivi and Bots..5000 klms, 3 dogs, and warm beer

Post by mushroom »

Hi Deon, working on that somehow...for whatever reason my trip log on the GPS didnt record all the trip. Will make a plan though
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Re: Nam, Caprivi and Bots..5000 klms, 3 dogs, and warm beer

Post by Donkey »

Yea James it was him right there, that beach :mocking: :shock2: , awesome trip report and as I said lots of awesome memories you are bringing. Reason we didn't do Katimamulilo was that someone advised us we would need fuel for around a 1000 km's. We then turned towards Rundu, where we discovered literally a 5km stretch of road with shebeens all the way, needless to say we stopped and explored a bit :laugh2: :drinks:
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Posts: 29857
Joined: Tue Apr 29, 2008 2:18 am
Town: East London
Vehicle: '90 SFA Hilux DC 4X4, Full OME, 110mm lift. Brospeed branch, 50mm ss freeflow exhaust. 30 x 9.5 Discoverer S/T's on Viper mags. L/R tank. (AWOL) '98 LTD 2.4 SFA, dual battery system. Dobinson suspension, LR tanks, 31" BF mud's.
Real Name: Andy
Club VHF Licence: HC103

Re: Nam, Caprivi and Bots..5000 klms, 3 dogs, and warm beer

Post by Mud Dog »

Thanks James, great report and entertaining read! :thumbup: :thumbup:
James wrote:Once over their PTS issues ......
Is that Post Traumatic Stress or Pap Gooiers Sideshow :D:

Looking forward to the rest! ;-)
When your road comes to an end ...... you need a HILUX!.

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Life is like a jar of Jalapeño peppers ... what you do today, might burn your ass tomorrow.
Don't take life too seriously ..... no-one gets out alive.
It's not about waiting for storms to pass. It's about learning to dance in the rain.
And be yourself ..... everyone else is taken!
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4x4BEES
Monster Truck
Monster Truck
Posts: 3447
Joined: Wed Nov 20, 2013 10:13 am
Town: Brackenfell
Vehicle: Hilux 4.0V6
Real Name: Kevin

Re: Nam, Caprivi and Bots..5000 klms, 3 dogs, and warm beer

Post by 4x4BEES »

Wow, what an awesome read. :clap: :clap: :clap: :subscribed:
And the photo's are epic :thumbup: :thumbup:
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pietpetoors
Moderator
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Posts: 10650
Joined: Thu May 17, 2007 9:12 pm
Town: Langebaan
Vehicle: 2.7 Hilux 4x4 DC
Real Name: Pieter
Club VHF Licence: X27
Contact:

Re: Nam, Caprivi and Bots..5000 klms, 3 dogs, and warm beer

Post by pietpetoors »

Ag lekker man, mooi fotos, maak ons skoon jaloers
Only Dead Fish Go With The Flow!
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1999 Hilux 2.7i 4x4 Raider DC with 3.4 Prado V6. Rear diff-lock, Bull Bar and rock sliders, 31" Cooper ST Maxx, Snorkel, Alu-Canopy, VHF Motorolla radio, West Coast Rust, Mikem Suspension, Ball Joint Spacers in front and Mikem extended shackles at the rear, 25watt LED Spots
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Sebata
LR4WD, Lockers, Crawler Gears
LR4WD, Lockers, Crawler Gears
Posts: 1317
Joined: Tue Mar 15, 2011 5:31 pm
Town: Cosmo City
Vehicle: '06 Hilux 4.0l V6 auto 4x4, Iron-Man front bumper, Ali3n Rock-sliders, Old man Suspention, Snokel, 31" Pireli Scorpion Muds
Real Name: Tau
Club VHF Licence: X125

Re: Nam, Caprivi and Bots..5000 klms, 3 dogs, and warm beer

Post by Sebata »

glad you stayed away from the beach :mocking: , else your nearest help would have been a prison tractor :laugh2:
Tau Sello
Sebata, Lion enjoys hunting with Hynas...
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mushroom
LR 4WD Rear Locker
LR 4WD Rear Locker
Posts: 408
Joined: Sat Oct 10, 2009 12:31 pm
Town: krugersdorp
Vehicle: '16 Legend 45 DC 4x4M
Real Name: James

Re: Nam, Caprivi and Bots..5000 klms, 3 dogs, and warm beer

Post by mushroom »

Wow...time flies..so to finish up this TR..where were we..ah, yes, Chobe..We left Chobe and headed down towards Senyati, after stocking up and quenching the thirst of an old Hilux with a long range tank...ouch..
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We could have probably done two weeks in Mauritius just on the petrol bill, dont ask consumption figures, I try not to look at those so havent got a clue..but it was lots..
Senyati has been receiving some bad publicity on the forums recently, we had no issues and Oom Louw was really helpful as we hadnt booked. We spent a night, and then headed south to Francistown. We stayed at the Cresta Marang campsite, nice and lush, with plenty of shade and very neat ablutions. From there we headed south to Sefope, and then to Selebi Pikwe. We found Sally's butchery here, and the fillet was going for R72/kg...needless to say we stocked up and got going again...destination Limpopo river lodge.
This piece of heaven borders the Thuli block, and the drive along the river road is magic. We came bumbling over a rise doing 60 klms/hr (its an 80 zone..), and almost had an altercation with a big elephant who was crossing the road.. Hiluxes dont have good brakes at the best of times, and definitely not when loaded to the hilt for overlanding...it was close, and reverse was selected in record time..we backed off whilst the trumpeting, and ear flapping continued..turns out there was a whole herd in the bush, and this isnt even a game reserve...you gotta love Bots !! :thumbup: :thumbup:
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After two nights here we crossed back into RSA at Platjan over the "great, grey,greasy Limpopo"....and headed for Jozi.
Heres a couple more pics that I forgot to add in.....Now to plan the next one...
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Q20 if its stuck, duct tape if it moves :shock2: :shock2: :shock2:
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