Hilux 4x4 Forum

Well Knupple even though your journey is not over yet. Thanks for sharing with us. It made the loss of my Hilux a little easier to deal with. Keep up the pics!

Only found this thread now ..... well done Marius !

Dankie Theo, you still happy with your conversion?

Very much so Marius.
We just replaced the thermostat, which got stuck in a slightly open position just outside of Calvinia coming back from Kgalagadi in 45 deg temps towing my Metalian Midi.Olive now has 48 000 kms on the clock since the restoration.

I have also just replaced the thermostat. Had some very strange behaviour but is now sitting at 93 deg running temp no matter what in throw at it. So happy i decided to run a set of VDO temp gauges instead of believing the OEM one. That's the reason I lost the 2uz some years ago.

Great stuff on Olive doing well!

Kannie wag om die eind produk te sien nie. Gaan een van die mooistes daar buite wees!

Sal nog bietjie moet wag!

Have a small problem at the moment with one of the panels in the load bin.
The PO had a suitcase on the back, he chucked his stompie out the window and it landed on said suitcase on the back. It caught fire and burnt the rubberising off that panel. Do you think we can get paint to stick to that panel without lifting peeling or doing all sorts but look decent

Have had it to bare metal several times now but after each attempt it's a failure.

Try lining it with toilet paper Marius.................. most $h1t sticks to that........

First clean with Xylene and then use a good quality self etch primer ...

TheoM wrote:First clean with Xylene and then use a good quality self etch primer ...

Either that or sand-blast the exposed area, etch prime and have the rubberising re-done.

Mud Dog wrote:............................... and have the rubberising re-done.

you r

Theo Will try

Knuppel wrote:

Mud Dog wrote:............................... and have the rubberising re-done.

you r

Theo Will try

I take it that you don't like rubberising.

Andy, ruberising on a work vehicle is a must, otherwise the load body gets destroyed within 2 to 3 years.

On my pride and joy that took a hell of an effort to get the bin sort of presentable again I think that ruberising it is not the way to go. Those load bodies are scarce and don't think it would make another round of rust creeping around under the rubber.

I am still contemplating on how to protect it, strongly thinking of putting in some marine ply that is fast to remove.

It is not the rubberising itself that causes rust but rather the procedure followed during - most companies just grind of the oem paint to roughen up the area and then go at it and so any moisture that gets in will cause rust as the metal underneath is totally unprotected.I chose a urethane based product but after sandblasting the area I firsts sprayed it with Rust Bullet which is also urethane based.The combo of the rough metal and urethane compatabillity made it the perfect solution for inside Olive's tub. Like always do your homework first ...

2c

Marius, it might not mean much, but my experience over the years with different efforts to protect the load bins included stone chip, rubber matting, heavy duty carpeting, those clip together type hard rubber mats and rubberising.

The stone chip or any other coating is only as good as the ability of the coating to resist abrasion and chipping (the quality of all prep work is an obvious given). The loose rubber matting sweated underneath and dust / dirt / fine grit used to get in under there and not only retained moisture but caused abrasion of the paint and subsequently rust spots. The carpet was worse - although no sweating or moisture retension, it trapped dirt having the effect of becoming a scourer - again, paint abrasion. The clip together stuff also scuffed it's way through the paint in places where heavier items were normally loaded. Rough or gravel roads didn't help either.

Rubberising was the most effective - it eliminated the tiresome need to regularly remove matting / carpet and clean underneath and of course stood up to more than a fair amount of abuse.

As Theo said, proper prepping of surfaces is the key. If you were to do all the prep yourself to your standard and satisfaction with a couple coats of rust inhibiting etch primer before sending for rubberising, you already have a matt finish as a 'key' for the rubberising to grip - no need for them to roughen it up and expose metal.

That said, with rubberising you have to occasionally check the edges that it's not lifting / separating (this will normally only happen at points of 'heavy traffic' or if application was done to dirty / oily surfaces.

You might want to reconsider.

Ok, so here are some pics.

I still have the ceiling and the carpets to do, all when time allows and I will update as I go.

My panel beater used vinegar to clean the panel that would not take paint, all hunky dory now

This build is not the effort of just one person but many people have either worked on it or given moral support during trying times or provide info or spare parts. I want to in particular thank my panel beater for the effort and pride he has put into helping me build this fantastic vehicle. Then also my Boss for allowing me to build it at his work premises. Last but not least..........you guys on the forum and the forum platform for having this thread. This forum and its people has provided me with invaluable information, without it I would still be paying school fees.



For now the engine and body outside is done.


























And the last picture has a rare glimps of the owener I see

Looking very good Marius, you can be very proud of this masterpiece.

Baie baie netjiese werk daardie Marius.Jy kan jouself op die skouer klop. Ek hou van daardie rollbar van jou.Van watter bakkie kom hy af - of moes jy een modify om te pas?

WOW !!

netjies werk !

Dawie, ek het die bakkie gekoop met daai roll bar op. Ek het hom net 2duim korter gesny sodat hy nie bo die dak uit steek nie.

Marius wat is die rede dat jy nie die voorste nommer plaat op bumper vas maak nie? Beter lugvloei vir die Lexus engine ?

Looks brand new, very nicely done, Marius!


-F_D

Dawie, ja, jy sal ook sien daar is n extra gat in die bumper

Ek ry elke dag werk toe met die bakkie. My roete klim 400m en daar is n paar taai bulte. As ek by die werk stop dan kan ek nog aan die onderste radiator tank vat met my hand.

In my jong dae het ek seker meer as n miljoen killos in SFA hiluxe gery. Dit was meestal 80 % off road en off tar en het altyd gesien dat die oomblik as jy bullbar en extras voor op die voertuig sit dan begin die oorverhittings probleeme. Die temperatuur van die radiator gaan sommer 5 grade op agv n nudgebar.
Het op n stadium duur skoolgeld betaal met n 2.8d wat ek ge-turbo het. Die oomblik dat die bullbar op gaan dan klim die engine se temperatuur. Jy sien dit sommer binne die eerste 40km

Die ventilasie op daai SFA is ontwerp vir rondom 70kw, nou sit daar rondom 200kw in, die hitte opwekking is aansienlik meer.

Op die stadium kan ek met full open throttle ry vir 30 km sonder dat ek n probleem kry.
Ek het my off road toets so 40 % voltooi en sover geen issues. Moet nog bietjie gaan vas sit en bietjie lowrange werk doen om 100 seker te wees dat die fans hulle werk kan doen.

Marius, if you ever consider selling please keep me in mind!
She is an absolute stunner!

My 87 SC has one of those woven rubber mats in it, the original bak (& paint) is still in beautiful condition - nil rust. Just needs regular removal and cleaning.

Thanks for all the compliments Guys, I feel honored . I pride my self in doing a job to the highest stardard I can get to. But its still a long way off a Chip Foose job, maybe I make a good aprentice

Louis, thanks
Good to hear a rubber mat works. I really dont mind cleaning on a regular basis and should it get damaged then I have enough spare paint to fix. But still thinking and considering the options.

Stunning! Well done!

One of the best SFA Hilux builds I have ever seen.


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That looks awesome. You need to post a video or two so that we can hear the motor.

Ryan, will try but need to find a willing camera man first.

Very very nice Marius, congrats !

Thanks Theo!

As you know i put an in tank pump for the Lexus motor

When it was built I chucked a magnet in the tank at the same time.
I developed a very small leak on the tank and this morning I removed it to close the leak.

After 6000Km this is what I found on the magnet.
My tank was rinsed a couple of times before it was assembled the first time so there would not have been many shavings left after working on it. I can't say nothing was left but NOT the amount you see in the picture.

This demonstrates the value of an in-tank magnet, whichever way you want to argue, own metal shavings or metal shavings from outside, it stops right there

After close inspection of the shavings it is clear that some magnetic stuff comes out of a fuel tank (Underground) that has rust in.

Clean outside but filthy inside...tsk tsk.

Go play in some mud man!!

Nice Marius.

This is exactly why I fit inline filters at both of Olive's tanks prior to the surge tank ... costs nothing and I change them out every 5K kms.If I ever decide to go internal pump on the main tank I will also fit a magnet.

Al wat ek kan se is hierdie is 'n "beaut".

Marius, help gou as jy kan asb.

Ek wil baie graag my outjie opstart, maar ek benodig radiator pyp, en n mens sukkel jou dood om te kry wat gaan werk tussen die kzte rad en die lexus masjien.

Hoe gemaak? Let wel Secunda is aan die gat kant van MP en hier lyk nie na mense met hulpsame vaardighede wat dit aanbetref nie.

Ek hoor graag.

Reinart, ek het 70% van my bestaande pype gebruik. My bakkie het n WL conversion gehad en die pype was nog nuut Die ander het ek staal tussenin gesit en ek is in die bevooregte posisie om n stoor vol allerhande pype te he.

Miskien moet jy stuk draat vat en dit buig soos benodig en draf jy scrap yard toe en gaan krap daar. Onthou nuwe voertuie val ook om. Kyk by die toyota's, hulle pype is min of meer almal dieselfde size.

Die pype wat van my KZ radiator afkom was die selfde size as die pype wat nog op die lexus was toe ek hom gekoop het.

Ok some feedback:

I have travelled 10 000 km now since first startup.......according to the odometer I have done 110 000km
Evidence that someone had his fingers in there at some time to facilitate a haircut, but i knew that when i bought the vehicle. No ways a 29 year old SFA with the amount of use only has 250 000km on.

So far i have only had one breakdown when a fuel hose clamp poped, It was a wurth clamp and did not expect that.
5min later i was up and running again.

We have removed the tank about 9 times due to a fuel leak. eventually figured that the fuel was creeping along the threads of the bolts that hold the fuel pump canister onto the tank. Braised the heads so that the bolts now became studs and problem solved.

Now came the suspension upgrade.
What a mission, in out in out in out...... change blades, change shocks, change blades again, new u-bolts, new blades and so it continued.
Too hard too soft, bump steer, wandering on the road, you name it we did it and changed it 20 times. Eventually we got to a point where it became acceptable. Problem with these old SFA hiluxes is that if you make it soft then the vehicle needs stabilizer/sway bars which all modern vehicle have that have a nice soft ride. So we made the ride harder until the point we had good a balance between ride comfort and sway.

Somewhere in between the bakkie also got a Gearmax Diff with gearlock that was bought from Claud here on the forum.

Next on the list was the rear propshaft. Had some strange vibrations although it was a newly built propshaft.
had the prop shaft rebuilt and rebalanced 4 times at the same place. Eventually I went to two other propshaft rebuilders and one guy stood out and promised to work with me to fix the prop shaft.

Two days later I had a vibration free shaft. I also made a solid shaft but the competence of the first rebuilder went into making that so it vibrates. Will send it to the good guy when I have some time.

Other than the above and a few rattles that have been sorted out the vehicle is my daily ride and I am a happy camper. I get 7.5km / lt if driving sensibly. Will change the diff ratios as time allows and the right deal comes past.

Hier is darem blerrie harde werk in die bakkie.

Regtig n mooi voertuig waarop jy met reg kan trots wees. Kleur pas hom 100% hy staan sommer uit!

Well done Marius.

Dankie Tertius!

Yep, a real beaut. Drive it with well deserved pride!

Marius GELUK met n puik voertuig !!

Marius - nice bakkie die!!

Daai body work is net AWESOME, man, al die panels line 120% op - jy moet daai panel beater toesluit, ons gaan hom kom haal!!!

Marius, how many GTiIs have given you "the look" when you left them standing at a robot after it turned green? Priceless!! :)


-F_D

Dankie Petri!

Eric, daars niks lekkerder as om die manne op hulle neus te laat kyk............maar die agter tyres raak nou al bietjie klaar van al die pak uit deel

maar die agter tyres raak nou al bietjie klaar van al die pak uit deel

Doesn't matter - it's FUN!!!


-F_D

Hi Knuppel,

Het jy die body en die bak gelift of net die body?

Laat my my weet asseblief.

Dankie,
Soutie

Craig, dit lyk of Marius 27 Jan 2020 laas op die forum was.

Ek vermoed jy sal dieselfde spacers op die bak moet gebruik as onder die body.

Marius loer nog so nou en dan, en hy kry nog boodskappe as daar vrae is.

Craig, bak en body gelig, anders pas die lyne nie so lekker oormekaar.
50mm voor en agter gelig.