Re: Andy's "new" LUX

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LouisZ
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Wed Mar 30, 2016 2:41 pm

Naaa Andy knows what he is doing. :thumbup:

Stef just use an on/off switch in line with the ICV, then you can decide to use it or not. For example I put mine off if going down a hill. Truth is the last time I took mine out a while back to clean and did not put it back. All I done was to play around with the fuel mix at idle speed. It don't have one currently. :silent:

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Wed Mar 30, 2016 5:18 pm

Stef wrote:Never figured you for a purist :mrgreen:
...and I was right LOL ('bout the EFi bit)


The newer Spitronics are apparently quite good. My only gripe with the EFi is crawling offroad when you have an ICV fitted...tends to maintain the target rpm ( or try) when you want to be at lower rpm's
:laugh2: Yes you were right about the EFI - that's why I said "maybe, maybe not".

I hear what you say about the ICV - we will be using a Lexus one that has a stepper motor and is therefore perhaps a lot more sensitive. Together with the Spitronics it allows us to manipulate the parameters at different revs and throttle positions a lot more accurately - right down to zero fuel on the rail / zero air from the ICV, so hopefully we will not have that problem. Time will tell. :winkx:

We will also not be making use of a CSV because with the Lexus ICV unit / Spitronics combination we can control the air fuel ratio at different engine temps as well.
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Tue Jun 28, 2016 3:52 am

We've had a number of hiccups and let-downs, but we're slowly getting there. The poor old girl looks forlorn and a little gutted.
This is the abortion of that Heath-Robinson 2nd tank that was fitted. It leaked a bit on one of the hoses somewhere, the pump never worked and the filler neck was cut into the load bin. Good riddance!
IMG_1212.JPG
The spare wheel winch and stabilizer rails were missing but I sourced some already a while back in anticipation of re-fitting the spare under the bin again. (Lying next to the old 2nd tank in a box).


Bits and bobs that we won't be re-using (except for radiator and cowl of course).
IMG_1213.JPG

This is where we are with the existing tank modification / enlargement. You can clearly see the add-on section which according to our calculations should give us close to an additional 35lit (a low grade 2.2mm stainless plate was used to match the existing tank material). The fuel guage sender was quite worn so we got a new replacement from Toyota. The old fuel feed and return lines were removed and a bigger hole cut to accommodate the basket and internal HP pump - a stabilizer bracket was welded into the bottom of the tank so there will be less stress on the silver-solder sealing the base ring to the tank - the base ring also has a few long tack welds on the outside (we didn't want to distort it with a weld all around and then the gasket can't seal against the cover. A cover was made but still needs to have the new fuel feed and return pipes fitted. Gussets will still be welded across the seams of the add on section for extra strength. Additional mounting brackets will still be fitted to the tank and chassis to support the add-on. We had to cut some of the corner away to allow access to the upper LHS rear shock mount. The exhaust will be re-routed under the add-on section with a heat shield under the tank. Once completed the tank will get some red oxide etch primer and black stone-chip before final fitment.
IMG_1214.JPG
IMG_1215.JPG
IMG_1216.JPG
IMG_1217.JPG

We will also fit a sealed inspection cover in the floor of the cab (under the rear seat) above the fuel pump position on the tank for easier access without having to drop the tank if ever needs be at some point down the line.

There was no injector rail with the throttle body and inlet manifold that I sourced, so we made a stainless steel one. The ECU is fitted high under the dash behind the glove box with an interface cable in the glove box. The wiring looms are complete and ready to be secured neatly once it's all up and running. Otherwise mostly just assembly work to be done and then the dyno and fine tuning.
IMG_1218.JPG
We also had the starter overhaued at the same time while the manifolds were out.

Will update as we go along.
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Tue Jun 28, 2016 6:16 am

coming along nicely !!

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Tue Jun 28, 2016 8:50 am

I found the tank mods to be the most painful bit of the entire conversion...and that was with an external pump.

Wasn't too keen on the rubber hose all the way to the front so I removed the std steel fuel line and had it replicated in 8mm to match the pump outlet; you can still refit it into the same chassis clamps. Just looks more factory.

Keen to see how you are going to do the air intake from the filter to the TB, would like to redo mine at some stage.

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Tue Jun 28, 2016 8:59 am

Will just have to do a cross over pipe and the shortest route is going to be in front of the tappet cover. If we decide to modify the air-box inlet pipe, I have a spare one to play around with.
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Tue Jun 28, 2016 9:10 am

Pretty much the same as mine, would like to change it to a one piece alu pipe all the way through or even plastic, so that the air doesn't heat up too much from the radiator etc.

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Tue Jun 28, 2016 9:33 am

Yeah, I have pretty much the same concerns but there doesn't seem to be a practical way around it. Even the 22RE factory fitted pipe passes over the front of the motor. It's a pity that the throttle body wasn't directed over the centre of the motor - that would have been a breeze.
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Tue Jun 28, 2016 9:38 am

Looking good Andy... Good luck :thumbup:
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Tue Jun 28, 2016 12:33 pm

Stef wrote:Pretty much the same as mine, would like to change it to a one piece alu pipe all the way through or even plastic, so that the air doesn't heat up too much from the radiator etc.
the air moves way too fast through that pipe to heat up significantly.

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Tue Jun 28, 2016 1:22 pm

Stef wrote:Never figured you for a purist :mrgreen:
...and I was right LOL ('bout the EFi bit)


The newer Spitronics are apparently quite good. My only gripe with the EFi is crawling offroad when you have an ICV fitted...tends to maintain the target rpm ( or try) when you want to be at lower rpm's
We simply fit a pull on/off switch next to the handbrake lever. In the off position the motor ticks over at 750 rpm (you set that on the plenum airscrew), I switch off for descents and nose to tail traffic, it then crawls without the excessive pulling.



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Sat Jul 02, 2016 9:26 am

Whoo Hoo Andy its coming on nicely. :thumbup:

Do as Stef say the Ali Pipe cross to the Airbox. All needed is a 76mm 90 degree bend at the throttle body then 2 bends at the airbox. Try to get it as straight as possible. The heat over the pipe on the top cancel out the heat from the bottom.

Other way is to go big and swop the battery and air box. But that is lots of work, possible. With the ICV just but in a cab switch, once the engine is at running temp just switch it off, the dyna can help to set idling with the Icv and without.

:thumbup:

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Sat Jul 02, 2016 10:11 am

Thanks Louis. Yep, the plan is to cross the air pipe over in front of the tappet cover.

With the longer duration cam the idling is already a bit 'lumpy', so I can't bring it down too far in any event - will probably set it to about 1000rpm, but will keep the ICV cut-off switch in mind. :thumbup:
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Life is like a jar of Jalapeño peppers ... what you do today, might burn your ass tomorrow.
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Mon Jul 04, 2016 3:42 pm

Schalk couldn't get it dyno'd properly with the ICV...he disconnected it and did the idling accordingly, but had same symptoms...only idled properly when engine was warmed up.

I connected it back up & followed the instructions in the manual & voila! Sorted
These days it battles to start in the cold, especially when camping & it has to sleep outside. Starting to suspect the water temp sensor, feels like the compensation is off.

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Fri Oct 13, 2017 11:58 pm

OK. It's been a while and an update has already been way past due. I'll try make it brief.

Got it all put together and dyno'd. However not before we had an elusive headache to sort out - we were getting a dirty pulse signal from the dizzy. We had used the old dizzy, just locked it up and fitted a magnetic pick-up, so to overcome the signal spikes we added resistors to the pick-up cable until the signal smoothed out.

The idle was of course still a bit lumpy since we left the warm cam as it was because we figured that we weren't going to get significantly enough improvement with a vernier sprocket to warrant the effort (& cost).
The result was that I was still sitting with a motor that idled at 1000 rpm and had severely diminished low rev torque.

The first 'test run' was the riverbed trail that we did ( viewtopic.php?f=49&t=42152&p=498897#p498897 ) which was close to being the perfect trial by fire because of the rocky nature of the inclines / declines and the river bed itself. The Lux behaved well despite the few places where I knew I would have been better off with lower revs and more grunt. I had got used to that shortcoming over time and had adapted to it, also, I wasn't doing that much of the rougher stuff any more, so I was happy to leave well enough be.

And that's where it would have stayed, but I was having problems on most of the first cold starts of a day - once it had started it would be OK for the rest of the day. Then one morning it just wouldn't start and we found that the pulse signal from the dizzy wasn't there, so we removed some resistors and it started easy but we were again sittibg with a dirty signal.

We contemplated swopping the dizzy out for a golf unit but decided that the easier route would be to fit a crank trigger and get the pulse from there (the Spitz ECU is configured for either). After all that work there was no improvement and now we were scratching our heads but at least we knew that the problem was not the dizzy. We replaced the battery because it was already 4 years old and getting weak, although it still had enough guts to crank the motor. We could however see the voltage drop to the ECU was on the excessive side when cranking, but the new battery didn't solve the problem. The cabling itself might have been the culprit and even though shielded cable was used it could have been picking up interference, so we swopped out the trigger cable for a shielded sound cable like musicians use. This made a bit of a difference but still didn't get rid of the problem. Poor Dylan was at his wits end and decided to redo the whole EFI wiring loom from scratch.

That did the trick, clean signal and no resistors needed.

(More to follow ....)
When your road comes to an end ...... you need a HILUX!.

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Life is like a jar of Jalapeño peppers ... what you do today, might burn your ass tomorrow.
Don't take life too seriously ..... no-one gets out alive.
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Sat Oct 14, 2017 8:07 am

Did you change your spark plugs to BPR?

BPR means it have a resistor in internally. Normal BP dont have. Resistor sparks I found it work better with the Efi's. And also choose a coller spark plug too. If it has a BPR6 go to BPR5. Combustion far better.

It perform better, idle better, no missing and better starting.

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Sat Oct 14, 2017 8:14 am

Thanks for the info Louis. Cannot remember what plugs we used but will look into that. :thumbup:
When your road comes to an end ...... you need a HILUX!.

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Life is like a jar of Jalapeño peppers ... what you do today, might burn your ass tomorrow.
Don't take life too seriously ..... no-one gets out alive.
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Sat Oct 14, 2017 2:34 pm

Glad to see your baby is running again.Time ,patience and persaverance normally pays off.
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Sat Oct 14, 2017 7:17 pm

Thanks Tony, It's been an on and off thing for a while. :D:

Another thing that we were having problems with was the Lexus ICV. We swopped it out for another one but still not responding as it should, so we stuck a BMW one in ( :crazy: ...... there goes the reliability :D:) but truth be told it behaves well. Tested it on a rocky off-road incline of about 25° to 30° in L4 with the foot totally off the noise pedal - it held it's 800 rpm and climbed into the steeper section where it stalled. I'm sure that if it was a smooth surface without the ruts and bumps, it would have crawled all the way up on it's own.

Some pics of the finished conversion .....

IMG_6133.JPG
IMG_6134.JPG
IMG_6135.JPG
When your road comes to an end ...... you need a HILUX!.

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Life is like a jar of Jalapeño peppers ... what you do today, might burn your ass tomorrow.
Don't take life too seriously ..... no-one gets out alive.
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Sat Oct 14, 2017 9:11 pm

Looking good Andy. :thumbup: :thumbup:

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Sat Oct 14, 2017 9:30 pm

Question

Why do you regulate the pressure twice?

I see the sliver settable one at the fuse box. But on the rear of the fuel rail on the OE rail there is also one. Or did it not have one?

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Sat Oct 14, 2017 11:01 pm

It didn't have one Louis. In fact we didn't have a fuel rail at all so we made one up from stainless tubing. I actually like the settable one with a gauge - you can set the pressure to where you want it and the gauge tells you at any time if there's no pressure or too little. We've set it at 3½ bar and that works well.
When your road comes to an end ...... you need a HILUX!.

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Life is like a jar of Jalapeño peppers ... what you do today, might burn your ass tomorrow.
Don't take life too seriously ..... no-one gets out alive.
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Sun Oct 15, 2017 7:03 pm

Ahh, well done.

Fuel pressure I get usually is by start up to 3.1 bar most and engine running on 2.8 bar. Driving depends on rpm on about 2.6 bar. If it fall lower you get it running too lean. Too much and you run too rich. Make sure the pressure match the cc injectors.

Also, the 22Re was about 180 to 200 cc injectors, also the very old ones the impedance was 2.5 ohms and the newish ones was 12.5 ohms. The older ones one had to run extra resistors inline to let them work correctly. It basically means the amps that reach the injectors have to be correct, if not they will work perfect when started then as the engine gets warm it start to miss and then the engine will stop.

or

The engine will start difficult or not start at all. Always know what injector impedance you have, that the Ecu give in ohms. This also makes life easier. :thumbup: :thumbup:

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Mon Oct 16, 2017 8:46 am

Thanks for the advice, Louis.

Went for a bit of an outing yesterday. On the open road going there it had less legs than before, but that's now because of the standard cam. However in the rough at low revs it was a completely different animal - in 2nd L4 it crawled through swampy / marshy areas on it's own with the foot off completely and maintained it's target revs. Obstacles were done mostly in the same gearing except for where crawling was necessary and then I used 1st, but nowhere did I have to use revs like I had to before. So it's behaving pretty good.
When your road comes to an end ...... you need a HILUX!.

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Life is like a jar of Jalapeño peppers ... what you do today, might burn your ass tomorrow.
Don't take life too seriously ..... no-one gets out alive.
It's not about waiting for storms to pass. It's about learning to dance in the rain.
And be yourself ..... everyone else is taken!

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Mon Oct 16, 2017 12:44 pm

Hi guys. Been a while since I've been on. But Andy's bus has come on nicely albeit with some headaches.
The target for the efi was to have as much oem functionality and practicality as possible. We wanted as few additions as possible. The more you add the more there is to go wrong.

The removal of the external tank was a must as it was never going to work properly. Having a fuel tank in your load area is dangerous especially when it hasn't been thought through properly. Andy removed that long time ago. We added the section onto the LTD oem tank which was stainless to begin with. So now it just extends to the other side of the chassis. We modified the tank to take an in-tank pump in a basket to stop fuel surge.
For the efi we chose Spitronics as there a few more options available with these systems that other systems don't offer. There was no fuel rail and injectors. We fabricated a stainless steel rail with extended mounting tubes to suit the Mitsubishi injectors which are a 15ohm resistance so no resistor block was needed. We locked up the oem distributor and utilized the existing magnetic sensor for the reference for the management system. Again, disturb as little as possible. But somewhere there was a gremlin in the mix causing interference with the trigger signal. 25+ hours of trying various things to get it sorted saw me climbing in with a side cutters and rewiring with a fresh loom.Problem sorted!!!
We did a base tune on the dyno finding the optimal timing and base fueling values. We finished off with 40km road tune getting it right for real world driving conditions. With a few off-road climbs to check driveability. As a tuner a good dyno graph doesn't always translate into good economy or driveability. I prefer to do both for these types of applications. We still have a few small issues to sort out but this can only be done with seat time. The idle control is always a must for me. Especially for over landing . Setting it up can be a pain but the rewards are great. Obviously the bigger the motor, the more torque is available off of idle the better it works. Which is why we opted for the std cam. The majority of the terrain we ride here (the rough stuff anyway) is a slow crawl. So it needs to be smooth off idle.

The costs of going efi properly are never cheap and Andy never wanted a throw together which is why there are the extras we did. I think all in all the benefits are massive. Andy wanted it as oem as possible which I feel he has. The only thing I would change is the restrictive oem Donaldson type filter housing. But Andy's still being a bit of a purist in that sense. I hope he sees the light... But if mommy had her way it would be running a big noisy v8! But I suppose somebody's has got to be responsible in the family...


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Tue Oct 17, 2017 10:34 am

Which Spitronics model did you get? The Saturn?

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LR4WD, Lockers, Crawler Gears
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Vehicle: Range Rover Classic V8
Real Name: Dylan
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Tue Oct 17, 2017 10:44 am

Yes we Fit the Saturn exclusively now and the mercury for the advanced installations. Found them to be almost idiot proof.


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Stef
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Vehicle: '98 LTD
Real Name: Stefan
ORRA Call Sign: X107

Mon Oct 23, 2017 5:39 am

Ok tx, also got the Saturn. At the same time I got new injector plugs and replaced the coil wires with longer ones from the molex connector. Still waiting for the coil plug and tps plug

Would the standard 4 cyl map start the 22R or should I load something else?

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Mud Dog
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Town: East London
Vehicle: '90 SFA Hilux DC 4X4, Full OME, 110mm lift. Brospeed branch, 50mm ss freeflow exhaust. 30 x 9.5 Discoverer S/T's on Viper mags. L/R tank. (AWOL) '98 LTD 2.4 SFA, dual battery system. Dobinson suspension, LR tanks, 31" BF mud's.
Real Name: Andy

Mon Oct 23, 2017 8:48 am

I think if you lined your dizzy up to TDC compression on no1 cyl, it should fire up. I know Dylan likes to advance it a little but he can elaborate.
When your road comes to an end ...... you need a HILUX!.

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Life is like a jar of Jalapeño peppers ... what you do today, might burn your ass tomorrow.
Don't take life too seriously ..... no-one gets out alive.
It's not about waiting for storms to pass. It's about learning to dance in the rain.
And be yourself ..... everyone else is taken!

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Stef
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Mon Oct 23, 2017 9:28 am

Where did you mount the ECU? I have the dicktator hidden in the dash but I'm tempted to mount the Spitronic inside the engine bay against the firewall somewhere..

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Mud Dog
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Vehicle: '90 SFA Hilux DC 4X4, Full OME, 110mm lift. Brospeed branch, 50mm ss freeflow exhaust. 30 x 9.5 Discoverer S/T's on Viper mags. L/R tank. (AWOL) '98 LTD 2.4 SFA, dual battery system. Dobinson suspension, LR tanks, 31" BF mud's.
Real Name: Andy

Mon Oct 23, 2017 9:39 am

I wouldn't put it in the bay, keep it inside under the dash behind the glove box (that's where we mounted mine). Less prone to moisture ingress and of course, engine heat. You can hook up a USB interface lead for your laptop that you can leave coiled inside the glove box for easy access and fine tuning on the road.
When your road comes to an end ...... you need a HILUX!.

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Life is like a jar of Jalapeño peppers ... what you do today, might burn your ass tomorrow.
Don't take life too seriously ..... no-one gets out alive.
It's not about waiting for storms to pass. It's about learning to dance in the rain.
And be yourself ..... everyone else is taken!

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AM Racing
LR4WD, Lockers, Crawler Gears
LR4WD, Lockers, Crawler Gears
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Vehicle: Range Rover Classic V8
Real Name: Dylan
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Mon Oct 23, 2017 10:27 am

Stef, rather mount the ecu inside the vehicle. I made a hole on the left hand side and fitted a big grommet to seal the loom. When you ready I'll send you a map to use for start up. Please note. Get the car tuned for your setup.


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Stef
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Mon Oct 23, 2017 11:51 am

Tx Andy/Dylan,

Most certainly will dyno it again....I believe I'll get better performance with the Spit than the red box

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AM Racing
LR4WD, Lockers, Crawler Gears
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Mon Oct 23, 2017 1:18 pm

It always depends on the tuner.


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Mud Dog
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Vehicle: '90 SFA Hilux DC 4X4, Full OME, 110mm lift. Brospeed branch, 50mm ss freeflow exhaust. 30 x 9.5 Discoverer S/T's on Viper mags. L/R tank. (AWOL) '98 LTD 2.4 SFA, dual battery system. Dobinson suspension, LR tanks, 31" BF mud's.
Real Name: Andy

Sun Jan 21, 2018 7:24 pm

Ok, so as I mentioned in another 'slider' thread, my steel arrived to build 4 x sliders (one set for 'Sifu-Lux' who doesn't have any and a replacement set for the LTD).
IMG_1387.JPG

I like the appearance of the original LTD sliders and in replacing them I want to keep it as close to original as possible. The first problem is that they're just not up to the task as an effective slider and I've already had to make repairs. Additionally, they were powder coated and rust started to set in. So a slight modification to beef them up with gussets is needed.
IMG_1388.JPG
IMG_1389.JPG
Had a little spare time yesterday without having to worry about upsetting the neighbours and no sooner got started before running into a problem.
IMG_1376.JPG
The 45° weld-in bends were of the cast variety .... the extruded bends with a wider radius were not available. This meant that I suddenly needed an extra 380mm of tubing per slider. Times 4 = 1,2 metres. My calculations with extruded bends called for a single 6m length of 60mm tubing (the innermost pipe is 50mm o/d).
IMG_1377.JPG
Not a total trainsmash - I had some identical gauge 60mm tubing laying loose, BUT, it was galvanised. Wouldn't have been a problem if I was going to powder-coat or just spray paint and the reason for having to replace the one set was because of rust. I was having none of that - the new units would all be hot dip galvanised and then sprayed (no more rust issues).

The thing is that you cannot successfully hot dip over old hot-dip. There is an electrolysis reaction between the two metals over time that creates a thin layer which does not come off in a tank of molten zinc. The outer zinc layer dissolves, no problem, but the thin darkened layer remains intact and as a result there is no adhesion of new material.

You can see what I mean in this pic. There is still a small amount of silvery galvanising but the rest is the darkened under layer that causes the problem when re-galvanising.
IMG_1384.JPG
Here it is in the acid and you can see that the dark layer comes off in small flakes floating about.
IMG_1385.JPG
Just a useful tip here - if you are hot dipping something that has a threaded stud / bolt and you don't want the galvanising to adhere to the thread, just tape the thread with some masking tape or coat in with a bit of grease. It burns off immediately when dipped but the small amount of soot that it creates, coats the thread and no zinc adheres. I prefer masking tape - it doesn't accidentally get wiped off during handling prior to dipping. With a threaded hole or nut, just wipe some grease into the thread and the same happens.

Getting back to the sliders - I cut the four long straight sections at the new longer measurement with enough off' cut to do the bent extensions on one slider and cut the remaining six required from the galvanised spare pipe. Those six had to be stripped of the zinc, so I stuck them into acid. I had no sulphuric, so had to use hydrochloric (pool acid). See pics above.

No such luxury of a TIG welder in my shop - everything gets arc welded (MAW).
IMG_1378.JPG
And then ground.
IMG_1381.JPG
And then sanded with a flap disc.
IMG_1380.JPG
IMG_1386.JPG
So all in all so far I have cut all my material (cleaned the old galvanised pipe), and completed one outer rail except for the step cut-outs that will also be internally braced.
IMG_1382.JPG
I'll see how far I manage to get in the next week.
When your road comes to an end ...... you need a HILUX!.

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Life is like a jar of Jalapeño peppers ... what you do today, might burn your ass tomorrow.
Don't take life too seriously ..... no-one gets out alive.
It's not about waiting for storms to pass. It's about learning to dance in the rain.
And be yourself ..... everyone else is taken!

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Stef
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Mon Jan 22, 2018 10:16 am

I also need to replace the outer parts of the LTD sliders....one rusted & one bent. The tubes right under the seams hold up very well, it is the "steps" on the outer tubes that that weakens it and also where I bent the one. Thinking of rather having one continuous length with ends bent as opposed to welding the bends on, but a project for later this year hopefully ;-)

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Mud Dog
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Vehicle: '90 SFA Hilux DC 4X4, Full OME, 110mm lift. Brospeed branch, 50mm ss freeflow exhaust. 30 x 9.5 Discoverer S/T's on Viper mags. L/R tank. (AWOL) '98 LTD 2.4 SFA, dual battery system. Dobinson suspension, LR tanks, 31" BF mud's.
Real Name: Andy

Mon Jan 22, 2018 11:00 am

Looks like it's a common problem then Stef.

I also originally wanted to have a continuous length bent to shape but to get someone here that can do it competently with 60mm 3mm gauge pipe is where I ran into a snag. It would have to be exactly the right length and angles on the same plane when they're done - nobody wants to give that kind of a guarantee. That's when I decided I'll do it myself with weld in bends.

With the thicker pipe gauge and an extended gusset inside the step cut-away's, it wont just bend that easily (all that's in there on the original is two sections of 30mm wide flat bar where the rivets are that hold the moulded tread piece in place). The I/D of the tubing is roughly 50mm so I can just use a single 5x50mm flat inside the tube that extends about 70mm into the pipe beyond the cutaway on both ends and properly welded.

In addition I will put in two more gussets between the outer and inner pipes, like an extension of the two mountings in the centre that only go as far as the inner pipe. After that it won't be able to twist or bend easily at all.
When your road comes to an end ...... you need a HILUX!.

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Life is like a jar of Jalapeño peppers ... what you do today, might burn your ass tomorrow.
Don't take life too seriously ..... no-one gets out alive.
It's not about waiting for storms to pass. It's about learning to dance in the rain.
And be yourself ..... everyone else is taken!

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Rebel 4x4
LR4WD, Lockers, Crawler Gears
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Mon Jan 22, 2018 1:53 pm

The best way to ensure that rust won't be in your vocabulary when talking 'Hilux', is to e-coat before you powdercoat.

During the process, the part will be sandblasted. e-coating will be done afterwards. You either have the option of leaving it (where the black will turn grayish due to UV) or use a clearcoat. I am a fan of powdercoating, so this will have a nice finish.

e-coating actually lasts longer than galvanise parts.
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Tim86
High Range 4WD
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Vehicle: Hilux
Real Name: Tim

Mon Apr 09, 2018 3:17 pm

You've probably picked up on this mod already Andy but here's a link to stop the Weber flooding at extreme angles if it ever occurs - http://www.lcengineering.com/LCNewslett ... HNOTE.html

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Mud Dog
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Vehicle: '90 SFA Hilux DC 4X4, Full OME, 110mm lift. Brospeed branch, 50mm ss freeflow exhaust. 30 x 9.5 Discoverer S/T's on Viper mags. L/R tank. (AWOL) '98 LTD 2.4 SFA, dual battery system. Dobinson suspension, LR tanks, 31" BF mud's.
Real Name: Andy

Mon Apr 09, 2018 5:42 pm

Thanks Tim, good to know and perhaps will help someone that has that problem. My maroon lux (22R) now has EFI, so there's no problem there and the white one with the 3lit V6 (Weber carb) doesn't seem to have a problem on inclines. I have had it on extreme angles using crawler gears - that means that it sits at such angles for a much longer period of time with the slower gearing, and it hasn't stalled yet.

The 3lit conversion was done by JT Conversions, so it must have been done properly and perhaps they already did something to the carb at that time. I have done steep inclines and descents as well as some hairy RHS side slopes but no LHS ones yet by some strange coincidence, however, it's my understanding that it's more the inclines that the Weber has a problem with, so I'm not too phased about it at this point.

If it ever becomes a problem, I'll address it then, for now I'm good. Thanks all the same. :winkx:
When your road comes to an end ...... you need a HILUX!.

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Life is like a jar of Jalapeño peppers ... what you do today, might burn your ass tomorrow.
Don't take life too seriously ..... no-one gets out alive.
It's not about waiting for storms to pass. It's about learning to dance in the rain.
And be yourself ..... everyone else is taken!

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Sifu-Lux
LR 4WD Full Lockers
LR 4WD Full Lockers
Posts: 642
Joined: Tue Sep 11, 2007 9:46 pm
Town: Mount Vernon Illinois
Vehicle: GMC Sierra SLT Z71 (Used to drive a '91 SFA Hilux YN67R 4x4 ,Full OME, ARB lockers front and rear, Ford 3L V6, 35mm axle move, 33" General Grabber X3's and dual transfer cases....... Keep her safe Mud Dog!
Real Name: Andrew

Mon Apr 16, 2018 3:04 am

Greetings from the USA.

Glad to hear old Sifu-Lux is performing well, I stripped and completely rebuilt that Weber carb when I put this engine in. Took some time to get the float level tuned, and with the electric fuel pump it seems to have not problems.
One mod I did make was to drill out the one blank port in the casting for the return fuel line. I then connected up the return line to the Weber carb.
That helped a lot to balance the fuel pressure and supply and stopped it flooding, which may also cause the stalls on inclines.
Sifu-Lux....I will miss you

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Mud Dog
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Joined: Tue Apr 29, 2008 2:18 am
Town: East London
Vehicle: '90 SFA Hilux DC 4X4, Full OME, 110mm lift. Brospeed branch, 50mm ss freeflow exhaust. 30 x 9.5 Discoverer S/T's on Viper mags. L/R tank. (AWOL) '98 LTD 2.4 SFA, dual battery system. Dobinson suspension, LR tanks, 31" BF mud's.
Real Name: Andy

Mon Apr 16, 2018 1:52 pm

Hi Andrew, yes I noticed that the return line was 'made operational'. I didn't look but there must be some form of restriction in that port or on the line so as to maintain some pressure on the needle valve. One can also hear the electric fuel pump pulsing quite rapidly to fill the float chamber if the vehicle has stood for some time, which then slows down as the needle valve shuts off. After that it pulses once every 2 or 3 seconds without the motor running - obviously with return fuel.

About 2 months or so back the pump just kept pulsing rapidly when I turned the ignition on and I got a huge scare, thinking that a fuel line had ruptured or come adrift. I hopped out as quick as my ageing frame allowed me to and looked under the vehicle to see if there was fuel being dumped - nothing. The pump you will remember is fitted to the chassis rail under the driver's seat and that's exactly where I was at the time, so I gave the pump a whack and it immediately started pumping (the change in the tone of the pulse was noticeable), and then it slowed down as per normal as the float chamber filled. Could be that a klack valve in the pump got stuck due to minimal use - whatever the cause, it hasn't done it again but I'll keep an eye (or rather an ear) on it.
When your road comes to an end ...... you need a HILUX!.

Image
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Life is like a jar of Jalapeño peppers ... what you do today, might burn your ass tomorrow.
Don't take life too seriously ..... no-one gets out alive.
It's not about waiting for storms to pass. It's about learning to dance in the rain.
And be yourself ..... everyone else is taken!

User avatar
Sifu-Lux
LR 4WD Full Lockers
LR 4WD Full Lockers
Posts: 642
Joined: Tue Sep 11, 2007 9:46 pm
Town: Mount Vernon Illinois
Vehicle: GMC Sierra SLT Z71 (Used to drive a '91 SFA Hilux YN67R 4x4 ,Full OME, ARB lockers front and rear, Ford 3L V6, 35mm axle move, 33" General Grabber X3's and dual transfer cases....... Keep her safe Mud Dog!
Real Name: Andrew

Sat Apr 21, 2018 3:25 am

The brass fitting on the return line of the carb has a pin hole diameter (I took it off a spare weber 36 I had.) May old carb may be in the spares box I gave you.
It's enough to balance the pressure.

If the bakkie stands for a while (more than a week or so)the fuel seems to evaporate in the line near the fuel pump, or it syphons back into the tank a bit. The pump then pulses rapidly when it has no fuel in it trying to pull fuel from the tank. Once fuel reaches it it slows down.

I once had to pull off the feedline and prime it manually as it would not draw the fuel on it's own. That pump is about 2 years old. The last one (same model) lasted 20 years.
Sifu-Lux....I will miss you

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Mud Dog
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Joined: Tue Apr 29, 2008 2:18 am
Town: East London
Vehicle: '90 SFA Hilux DC 4X4, Full OME, 110mm lift. Brospeed branch, 50mm ss freeflow exhaust. 30 x 9.5 Discoverer S/T's on Viper mags. L/R tank. (AWOL) '98 LTD 2.4 SFA, dual battery system. Dobinson suspension, LR tanks, 31" BF mud's.
Real Name: Andy

Sat Apr 21, 2018 8:51 am

Thanks for he feedback Andrew. Pretty much what I suspected and I keep the tank on the full side so that the pump will be gravity fed even if the lux sleeps on a slight 'nose-up' incline. :winkx:
When your road comes to an end ...... you need a HILUX!.

Image
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Life is like a jar of Jalapeño peppers ... what you do today, might burn your ass tomorrow.
Don't take life too seriously ..... no-one gets out alive.
It's not about waiting for storms to pass. It's about learning to dance in the rain.
And be yourself ..... everyone else is taken!

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