300km on a tank???

[Koppelaar]

On average I only get 300km on a tank of pertol on my 87 SFA 2.2.
Used mostly in the farm and the odd trip to town and it cannot exeed 100km/h anyway.
Does this consumption sound about right?

[JamesC]

Size of tank?

[Rianc]

If I can remember correctly the tank size was either 40 or 45l as standard? Could be totally wrong, but back in the day a friend of mine told my the same story, het got worried driving from Pretoria to Pietersburg, 289km, so he fitted a long range tank, at that tome 80l.

[CasKru]

I get roughly 700km to 800km on 115L.

Do keep in mind that when you are in Low Range you can throw the fuel consumption figures out the window

[LouisZ]

Tank size std on a 4Y is 55lt. You only use +/- 49liter only.

300km on a 2.2 4Y carb is aboit 6.1 km/liter is about average.

[Rianc]

LouisZ, that about sums it up, like I stated the tank is very small.

[Mud Dog]

I think that the average should be a little higher than that depending on how much city driving vs highway / open road driving you do. My old 4y used to give me better than that in town and on the rare occasion on the open road when conditions were ideal (no load, wind behind me, cool day / evening when the air is denser, no big hills and not pushing it), I used to get over 10km/lit. Admittedly that was calculated on the odometer and not GPS, but it was still more than acceptable by 4Y standards.

Can go no harm to check the carb and timing. Check that the choke butterfly opens fully when the motor is warmed up - there should be no play on the butterfly shafts (wear) that it can suck air - float level must be on the halfway mark of the sight glass when the vehicle stands level - air filter must be cleaned or replaced if choked - vacuum hoses must be correctly connected and not perished / sucking air - be sure that the vacuum advance on the dizzy is working as it should. Check that the idle solenoid is working.

Check that there is no play on the dizzy rotor shaft - if the dizzy rotor contact and the dizzy cap contacts are badly arced they should be replaced - coil, condenser, HT leads and plugs to be in good order so that ignition / combustion is optimised. IIRC, ignition timing should be at about 6° BTDC at 800rpm according to the manual, but I found that it was happier at 9° BTDC with better economy.

Then, what kind of mileage is on the clock? Using excessive oil? A compression test might not be a bad idea.

Those motors can be badly worn, timing out and carb badly set / worn and the motor will still run OK, but the fuel economy will fly out the window.

[Rianc]

Now this is expert reply!

[Koppelaar]

I think that the average should be a little higher than that depending on how much city driving vs highway / open road driving you do. My old 4y used to give me better than that in town and on the rare occasion on the open road when conditions were ideal (no load, wind behind me, cool day / evening when the air is denser, no big hills and not pushing it), I used to get over 10km/lit. Admittedly that was calculated on the odometer and not GPS, but it was still more than acceptable by 4Y standards.

Can go no harm to check the carb and timing. Check that the choke butterfly opens fully when the motor is warmed up - there should be no play on the butterfly shafts (wear) that it can suck air - float level must be on the halfway mark of the sight glass when the vehicle stands level - air filter must be cleaned or replaced if choked - vacuum hoses must be correctly connected and not perished / sucking air - be sure that the vacuum advance on the dizzy is working as it should. Check that the idle solenoid is working.

Check that there is no play on the dizzy rotor shaft - if the dizzy rotor contact and the dizzy cap contacts are badly arced they should be replaced - coil, condenser, HT leads and plugs to be in good order so that ignition / combustion is optimised. IIRC, ignition timing should be at about 6° BTDC at 800rpm according to the manual, but I found that it was happier at 9° BTDC with better economy.

Then, what kind of mileage is on the clock? Using excessive oil? A compression test might not be a bad idea.

Those motors can be badly worn, timing out and carb badly set / worn and the motor will still run OK, but the fuel economy will fly out the window.

Thanks Mud Dog, will check all you referred to. She does use quite a bit of oil but does not smoke?

Does anyone know a good mechanic in Nylstroom?

[Bulletjie-3]

Doen jouself die moeite en bring hom na Louis toe in Pta, jy gaan nie spyt wees nie.

[Koppelaar]

Doen jouself die moeite en bring hom na Louis toe in Pta, jy gaan nie spyt wees nie.

My naam is toevallig ook Louis en het ook huis in PTA maar ek sal nie aanbeveel dat mense hulle Hilux'e na my toe bring nie
Waar is die regte Louis se werkswinkel asb?

[The Legend]

Hoekom wil ek al he myne is 65liter groot

[Koppelaar]

Hoekom wil ek al he myne is 65liter groot

Verstaan nie mooi wat jy bedoel nie?

[JohanM]

Hoekom wil ek al he myne is 65liter groot

Dawie jy is reg die SFA tot en met die 97 model het almal n 65L tank gehad. Meeste wat ek in myne kon kry was 60.1L nadat ek vanaf Paarl tot in Worcester gery het met die naald wat empty wys toe ek by die Paarl se afdraai kom.

As die naald op empty gaan le is daar so +/- 15L oor in die tank.

[The Legend]

Hoekom wil ek al he myne is 65liter groot

Verstaan nie mooi wat jy bedoel nie?

My tank size is 65 liters

[Haboob]

"My tank size is 65 liters"

Have you driven it until it runs out of fuel?
If I am not mistaken the tank size should be 70L

[JohanM]

Double cabs 65L capacity and single cab 73L capacity.
97 & 98 models came out with square tanks, 80L capacity on the Double cabs 4x4 and 100L on the single cab 4x4's.

[Stef]

Indeed....mine also 80l but in reality closer to 90l
Driven it past empty and dropped the tank for the EFI mod; still drained 26l out of it