SFA draglink mod

[3vilc]

Has anyone heard of a mod to get the standard steering to flex more without the expense/complexity of x-over steering, which involves cutting the end of the drag link off, and tapping the rod to accept a tie rod end from an IFS hilux? With the ball joint on top of the J arm and J arm hole re-tapered.
Just wondering if anyone else has tried it and benefits/drawbacks. Obviously the torque rod would have to stay so thats one drawback, but it would allow a lot more suspension travel at least.
I do have a photo of it if anyone is interested, but no further info on it but thinking of trying it

[CasKru]

An easier mod is to cut the end off on one side and replace with a rose joint

[Mud Dog]

I don't think that the draglink in any way inhibits suspension flex. I would only consider doing something like this if the balls were buggered on the pitman and "J" arms, otherwise you're wasting your time and money.

The main advantage of x-over steering is that it eliminates bump steer and axle wrap steer ... this means that there is no longer a need for the torque rod which when removed improves axle articulation.

[CasKru]

I was refering to the torque rod this does hinder flex to the one side

[Mr_B]

I've seen guys modify the torque rod with johnny joints, allowing much better articulation on the front axle!

Take a look here: http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestor ... oints.aspx

I'm not sure where you could get these joints??

[Mud Dog]

Pretty much like a rose-joint, just encased. I think I would prefer a rose-joint .... easier to keep it clean from muck build-up. The encased version may tend to retain the muck which turns the grease into a grinding paste.

[3vilc]

Ok prehaps 'flex' was the wrong word to use. I was refering more to the lack of down travel on drivers side because of the limit the balljoint at the J arm end will flex. On my truck this is only about 20mm beyond the length of the standard shocks (with the shocks and springs disconnected). So no point fitting better longer shocks since the axle isnt going to drop down much further anyway. I have seen the drag link cut and flipped to bolt in the top of the J arm, but probably similar price and stronger to thread it and use an tie rod end.
I do like the idea of the rose joints in the torque rod tho, that solves the side to side articulation problem without changing the whole steering to get rid of it.
Dont know why toyota didnt just make them with x-over from the factory! haha

edit: another idea that just popped into my head, since new zealand is a big agriculture country and they are readily available and cheap, why not just replace the torque rod with a tractor hitch link? They are adjustable and have heavy rose joints both ends! I dont know if they would be available in the right length and with the right pin sizes, but an idea worth looking into

[Mud Dog]

...... why not just replace the torque rod with a tractor hitch link? They are adjustable and have heavy rose joints both ends! I dont know if they would be available in the right length and with the right pin sizes, but an idea worth looking into.

Definitely a good option if you can get one to fit .... adjustable is good too!

[Hoppy]

Been there, done that mod a few times many years ago, it's fine for a race truck, but the two springs in youir current arm serves a purpose, if you remove them, you get a constant "kicking" of the steering wheel over every bump and corrugation, very tiring on a long road.
Pro comp makes a "S" type adjustable rod that still has spring joints or you can make it yourself.
To much front articulation makes a SFA unstable, keep it stiff in front and give the rear more flex or fit a front locker.

[3vilc]

Well after finally getting around to changing the front springs and pulling the torque rod out to check the bushes, I would say they have seen better days. With no torque rod I can easily get an extra 60+mm drop with the shocks disconnected before the draglink maxes out. And having taken it for a careful drive without the torque rod on the wandering and brake steer is no worse than with the rod on so bushes must be stuffed. And as luck would have it you can get a rose jointed tractor link exactly the right size to replace the torque rod ..so will pick one up during the week and give that a try

[Willied]

Please post pix and the relevant part numbers..

[3vilc]

Will put up a pic when I get around to doing it..hopefully can get some extra money and get it done this week. Just had an extra expensive holiday out of town with wife ending up sick in hospital.
Tractor link NZ$40, Adjustable hilux torque rod NZ$110 (rubber bush version), so for the money its worth a try, its not like its actually taking much load its only keeping the diff upright so I don't see why it wouldnt work