Hilux 4x4 Forum

Hi guys

I did mine recently and here is a how to guide for those wanting to do the same. Don't know if you guys want to add this as a sticky or something somewhere.

The most important thing to know is that the lights are wired up negatively, if that is the correct term. The switch isn't between the battery and the light like you would think. The switch is between the lighs and the earth. So to put your lights onto relays, you have to wire everything in reverse (earth and live gets swopped).

Here is how the factory wired it: (Only the relevant wires are in colour. The black wires aren't apllicable, you never touch them)
And here is how you re-wire it onto relays:
Basicly you rewire the existing wires from the lights to the relays, and you lay new wire for the lighs from the battery and to the earth.

What you need is:

New wire:

I got 3mm wire for the common wire from the battery to the lights, and I got 4 different colour 2.5mm wires from the two low and high beams to the relay. And then I got 2.5mm wire from the relay to the earth (Should've been 3mm wire).

2 x relays. I got two 5 pin normal open dual output relays so that I can run one cable straight to each light on both low and hight beam and I don't have to splice any cables. I got one Hella relay and one Bosch relay just for the kick of it so see if there's any difference (no difference so far and they cost the same at autozone).
Then I got two inline fuses:
My H4 connectors looked a bit bad being 24 year old and all, so I decided to replace them while I'm at it. The problem now is that no matter what H4 connector you buy, they all come with crap thin wire which will make your new thick wiring redundant. Here is the difference between 2.5mm wire and the crap wire that comes with the H4 connector:
The more expensive H4 connectors can't be taken appart to replace the thin wires, so I got the elcheapo ones, took them appart and put in proper wires.
When I was done with that, I got some car silicone and sealed them up nicely. It's doesn't look so great I guess, but they will work great!!!

Here is how the connectors looked in the end:
Not TOO bad . . .

Anyway. So I pulled out all the wiring from the lights all the way back to my fuse box.
Those 4 wires you end up with that used to go to the lights, you then wire up to the two relays according to my diagram.

You then take your new wires and you wire them together with the inline fuses according to my diagram. Remember, this gets wired in reverse on your relays. Your outputs are actually your inputs from your lights and your input is actually your output to your earth. (If you use a 4 pin relay and have both lights connected to the one pin, then it doesn't matter which way around you wire them)

And that's it. There isn't much to explain there . . . wiring is wiring. Oh yes, I forgot to add terminals to the list of things needed!!!

Anyway. Mine is an extreme case I think as my headlights sucked, but here is my before:
And here is my after:
Also, please note that I do not know how this will affect aftermarket spotlights as I still have to check it myself. Will add it here in a day or two once I know.

EDIT - Replaced my spotlights' faulty relay and spots are working!

Well done Stephan, pic with wires all oose and looking messy looks similar, that's all I'm seeing last week and this one coming.

Why did you have to change them onto relays?

Donkey wrote:Well done Stephan, pic with wires all oose and looking messy looks similar, that's all I'm seeing last week and this one coming.

Why did you have to change them onto relays?

Was done to increase the voltage / power supply to the lights via thicker and more direct wiring.

Good job Stephan,

I can see whats going to keep me busy next week. Well explained.

Update

I replaced my spotlights' faulty relay and spots are working!

Nice write-up

One thing to add I think, is 2 diodes across the relay coils, i.e. one diode across pins 85 & 88 on each relay with the cathodes on the fusebox side (R-B & R-W in your diagram).

This is to counter back EMF from the relay coils so that you don't get arcing on the stalk contacts.

Stef wrote:Nice write-up

One thing to add I think, is 2 diodes across the relay coils, i.e. one diode across pins 85 & 88 on each relay with the cathodes on the fusebox side (R-B & R-W in your diagram).

This is to counter back EMF from the relay coils so that you don't get arcing on the stalk contacts.

English please?

a diode has 2 legs .Anode(+) and cathode(-)-(silver ring)

EMF-electro motive force

Im not sure if he wants you to keep the current constant :?
lets wait for his reply

Any coil will have energy when it is energised (hence the term!). When the circuit is opened, the energy will dissipate over the switch contacts with a spark, which can eventually erode the contacts. The solution is to place a diode over the coil, as shown, then the energy is dissipated through the coil resistance. It is known as a flyback or freewheel diode.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flyback_diode" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Cheers,

C

So can I do this on my '86 corolla too? Will I use the same relays etc?

I ordered some wiring looms for this. They already have all the relays and plugs. Just plug in and connect to the battery.
Only thing they don't have is that diode box for the blue light on dashboard.
Still waiting for payment to clear and then the long wait to import, but I think they should be here by Mid August
Price I still have to see, might be in the region of R350.00

Hold on there guys.

Please scroll back up and see that I did my headlights on relays, and added my spotlights on their relays, and the high beam indicator is working. Everything 100% all without diodes or coils or any of these complicated things you are talking about . . . I just wired it up like in my diagram . . .

Stephan, I will see when those looms arrive here. The manufacturer assured me that it works on all vehicles without any problems. So if it works correctly it will be a bonus, I hope it does.

cprinsloo wrote:Any coil will have energy when it is energised (hence the term!). When the circuit is opened, the energy will dissipate over the switch contacts with a spark, which can eventually erode the contacts. The solution is to place a diode over the coil, as shown, then the energy is dissipated through the coil resistance. It is known as a flyback or freewheel diode.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flyback_diode" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Cheers,

C

Flyback Diode.jpg

Unless you are operating the relay coil with a solid state device which can be destroyed by the induced EMF (unlikely with a SFA!!), I would not bother with the diode. It is used in high-energy circuits (the TV flyback example above, which "switches" on & off 15,625 times a second) but in this case, nothing fancy, and all it would protect is the actual original light switch contacts which were built to handle high amperage in the first place. The relay coil draws minimal current.


-F_D

I received some of those harnesses today. They are very well made and comes complete with 2x relays.

I installed mine in 10 minutes.
Only problem is, the blue light on dash is not working so I will have to build the little box Cassie was talking about.

Light meter readings:
I just use it for comparison values. The light is very uneven, so I tried to get the brightest spot one meter from the light.
Values was on the 10,000 scale on light meter.
Before:
Dim = 620
Bright = 810

After:
Dim = 860
Bright = 1050

Above is with Osram nightbreakers

For those who cannot wait for us to manufacture the fix, I added it to my shop so long.
I've put it up at a lower price as originally planned. When we get the fix we will sell it is a separate plugin unit for the vehicle which need it.
The harness is at
http://www.4x4direct.co.za/shop/index.p ... cts_id=394" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I see most places recommend a 30A relay for up to 100 watt, I bought some 40A relays just to make sure they last longer.
I opted for 5 pin, do same work as 4 pin, only one pin you ignore if you need 4 pin.
Relays at
http://www.4x4direct.co.za/shop/index.p ... cts_id=393" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

For the guys who wants to build their own I have H4 plugs
http://www.4x4direct.co.za/shop/index.p ... cts_id=391" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

And sockets to fit the 5 pin relay, no more loose wires
http://www.4x4direct.co.za/shop/index.p ... cts_id=392" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

pietpetoors wrote:I received some of those harnesses today. They are very well made and comes complete with 2x relays.

I installed mine in 10 minutes.
Only problem is, the blue light on dash is not working so I will have to build the little box Cassie was talking about.

Light meter readings:
I just use it for comparison values. The light is very uneven, so I tried to get the brightest spot one meter from the light.
Values was on the 10,000 scale on light meter.
Before:
Dim = 620
Bright = 810

After:
Dim = 860
Bright = 1050

Above is with Osram nightbreakers

Pics and Price PLEASE.......

MOFASA wrote:

pietpetoors wrote:I received some of those harnesses today. They are very well made and comes complete with 2x relays.

I installed mine in 10 minutes.
Only problem is, the blue light on dash is not working so I will have to build the little box Cassie was talking about.

Light meter readings:
I just use it for comparison values. The light is very uneven, so I tried to get the brightest spot one meter from the light.
Values was on the 10,000 scale on light meter.
Before:
Dim = 620
Bright = 810

After:
Dim = 860
Bright = 1050

Above is with Osram nightbreakers

Pics and Price PLEASE.......

Now if you followed the links you would have seen this

CasKru wrote:Now if you followed the links you would have seen this

SORRY Cas......

MOFASA wrote: SORRY Cas......

All I can say is WOW!!!!

Believe it or not, but I only got to try my new headlights for the first time this weekend at the Bridgestone night challenge (two months after I installed them ) I was a bit scared doing the challenge without nice spotlights, but not once I needed anything other than my new headlights!!!!

pietpetoors wrote:For those who cannot wait for us to manufacture the fix, I added it to my shop so long.
I've put it up at a lower price as originally planned. When we get the fix we will sell it is a separate plugin unit for the vehicle which need it.
The harness is at
http://www.4x4direct.co.za/shop/index.p ... cts_id=394" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Just installed this loop/harness and what a difference . Didn't measure the improvement but it is literally night and day. I noticed my spots are working now, but will figure that out another day...

Spots working or not working?
If NOT working, and if your spots are wired via a relay, move the power wire which activates the relay to the blue wire on the H4 Harness. That should fix it.

Sorry not working. Thanks for the info!


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thanks for the tips and tricks