Rear Diff Lock for SFA 1997 22R

[hoes]

I'd need to have one fitted; I travel alone (overland).

I think I've read about every single posting I could find, but still have no definitive answers... in fact I'm getting more confused.

I am 99% sure I have a local rear diff, will check tonight (front is imported) - so ARB (R18.5k) is not an option, Gearmax (R7k) is and maybe Detroit Locker (R10k) as well, not sure. The Detroit one seems the best choice (cost, durability) but apparently have poor on-road manners.

What is the difference between Detroit Softlocker/Locker/No-spin? I'm in Pta, who might be my closest (reputable) Detroit installer/agent? And do I need to worry about the degraded handling on tar/dirt roads?

Some people have reservations about Gearmax?

Anything special about ARB? Why is it twice the price? Is it really worth it?

Thanks

[CasKru]

Welcome to the forum.

I have a gearmax locker and it's working like a charm. The only problem I've ever experience with it was that the vacuum engaging it would drop away under higher revs but a non-return valve in line (don't know if the original installer forgot to fit it or not as I bought the vehicle like that) solved that problem.

If you can open your rear diff from the back of the vehicle and not from the propshaft side, then you have a local diff and can fit a gearmax

[CasKru]

But... after saying that, if you are travelling alone a winch is much more important than a diffloc

[dantjie]

Hi Adam welcome to the forum.
I have a sfa hilux 98 model ltd if im not mistaking the came out with the gmax diflock at the back and the nice thing is that the agents is local for parts.
I recently had a problem that the difflock did not want to engage and so had a problem with the diaframe inside but just sealed it with some silicon between the two plates but must say help me a few times.
But also keep in mind a winch might also be a good investment.
Hope u enjoy it here.

[Wurmscooby]

I have a "96 2,4. fitted a gearmax difflock in the back.never had a problem so far.

[Willied]

I have a Lockrite fitted in the front and no issues here.. Hi-speed driving is soon second nature to you if you don't let the steering wheel return to centre like you are a 15 year old stuntman.. Really enjoy the locker and have to say at R5000 for purchase it was the cheapest I could find!

[LouisZ]

The ARB lockers is made for the Toyotas that share the Import diff type, here and there you find it made for other Toyota diffs aswell. On the Hilux(SFA) you only find the ARB for the Import diff(this you will take the whole diff of from the propshaft side).

If you have the Local diff(Backside of diff you have a plate where you access the diff from) you can go Gearmax.

Your ARB is made especially to be completely user selectable, you use it when you need it, no influence on tyre wear etc. They are extremely strong, you will break a sideshaft before you ever break the Locker itself.

One can try also for the import diff a OE Toyota locker, also good, these they use for example on the IFS Hiluxes.

Detriot, Auzzie lockers are of so kind you do not know when they will select, it will without warning engage when you do not want it, for example in a turn of wet road, I wont use them in the rear if this is your everyday vehicle. Other side is that they be 100% fine in the front.

Limited slip, almost the same as the detriot. Yet again I will use them in front.

Then, I wont install a front locker in my Hilux. I am a kind of person that always try my limits, if
I know I have Locker I would try more. It do not stop there, any locker type WILL INCREASE your turning circle, it will also make the steering very difficult to turn, axle windup are a certainty in most case on hard surfaces you will break something.

Most people go for the rear difflock and I know others that installed them only in the front. But remember, these guys have experience that do them in the front only. YOu have to know your 4x4.

[blom]

i agree with cassie get a good quality winch

[hoes]

Ok, so I do have the local diff, it opens from the rear; does not look like the front diff.

I'll go for the Gearmax: (1) It's the cheapest (selectable)/ (2) how bad can it be - was std equipment on Hilux/ (3) lots of agents/spares available - I do no tinkering myself / (4) It will have an easy life, will not be hammered every weekend, will probably use it once every 1000km or so - don't need to pay for Detroit/ARB quality/ And (5) my bakkie's road-holding is not that good as it is - I do not need to potentially complicate things even further with the automatic locker at the rear.

Thanks all -

Cassie: I'll make sure they fit a non-return valve. I had a winch installed 8 years ago, never used it - I will search the forum for maintenance tips

Willie/Louis: I've seen positive posts about Lockrites. Unlocking the front hubs (on-road, normal driving) will negate the negative handling? - or do I have it wrong? If so I'll consider front as well. I'm sick and tired of bouncing over rocks at high refs up rocky pathways...

[LouisZ]

I settle for the G-Max in the back, I currently have 95 SFA that have one in, by me it works well if you need it.

Then the Lockrites, I will use them in the front only if there is no option to fit a rear locker. It will work because you disengage the front axles in any case that the lock wont influence normal driving.

Remember, uphill the weight of the bakkie is in the back, the rear locker will work better.

[Willied]

Willie/Louis: I've seen positive posts about Lockrites. Unlocking the front hubs (on-road, normal driving) will negate the negative handling? - or do I have it wrong? If so I'll consider front as well. I'm sick and tired of bouncing over rocks at high refs up rocky pathways...

You will have no influence if not in 4x4 as they are then not connected to the wheels..

As Louis said, if you have one in the back there is no real need for one in the front, but if you go extreme the more the merrier..

Ps. Louis, I have an import rear diff and therefore settled to put it in the front where I can disengage it if broken and still drive home, but I have to tell you I won't be putting one in the rear as this has made a huge difference in how the van performs over harsh terrain!

[hoes]

Thanks again. To summarise; very simple: Gearmax rear diff => No choice but Gearmax diff lock. Eish.

[dantjie]

Stay local its lekke.

[Dingo]

Adam, M2CW

Go with the Gearmax rear diff lock - I got one and it's amazing the difference in traction once engaged.

Then if money allows (now that you can go the cheaper Gearmax option) fit a winch on the front and you'll be properly sorted.

Another option is to invite a couple of you're new found Luxter friends along on your next trip , then you don't have to worry about getting stuck by yourself.

[Willied]

Another option is to invite a couple of you're new found Luxter friends along on your next trip , then you don't have to worry about getting stuck by yourself.

Best advice ever..

[hoes]

Just for reference: for the Gearmax Diff lock you need to supply the Gearmax installer with a Diff Lock Switch (apparently any toggle will work just as nice but I don't like that), and there are hundreds of original part numbers in Toyota's Parts Catalog, but not a single ONE for the SFA.

After much searching and calling: what you need is Part # 8472535010 (for 2.7 of KZTE).

[Mud Dog]

Don't let them fit just a toggle switch alone .... there should also be two indicator lights, one red that shows when the vacuum solenoid is energised, and one green that shows when the locker physically engages .... remember it does not always lock or disengage immediately after flicking the switch, so the switch itself is not a true indicator of whether the locker is engaged / disengaged.

Take for example, the vac hose has come off or is torn ... you flick the switch and think you have diff lock, but you don't. OR. You flick the switch on, gun the motor a bit for some momentum for your obstacle and all you hear is one loud crack as the locker engages under full steam and explodes the spider gears in the diff. OR .... you come off a muddy or slippery surface where you had the locker engaged, turning onto tar or a hard surface ... you flick the switch off but the locker will remain engaged until the tension is off. You may think it's off because you switched it off and take a sharp turn onto the tar ... next thing you know there's a loud bang from the rear as you twist off a half-shaft or strip a spider gear.

Lockers should be engaged gently without too much stress on the drive-train components. Once engaged you can give it horns.

[Wurmscooby]

correctly so Andy..I have those indicators fitted when I did the gearmax.