Balljoint Lift - DIY

Discuss modifications on your late 1998 to 2005 IFS Hilux here.
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BlumTRD
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Balljoint Lift - DIY

Post by BlumTRD »

Please note this is not my Pictures :oops:

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Please note SOME needs to be cut and others don't AND cut only the LIP not a big cut , or otherwise just bend the lip towards the engine
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:thumbup:
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Re: Balljoint Lift - DIY

Post by BenHur »

David

Interesting. Is it only the top joint that gets a spacer. What about the bottom should it not be spaced as well. Will it not limit the droop travel? :?
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Re: Balljoint Lift - DIY

Post by Mud Dog »

Bennie, I don't think so because that would be limited by the shock travel which is linked to the lower control arm and therefore remain unchanged. However I cannot see the benefit here without spacing both upper and lower arms. In fact it may even affect the camber during depression because the arcs of the two arms are now altered. (Might look like a tired Nissan when the wheel travels upward ... :lol: :lol: ). Furthermore, the lower control arm is the one determining the 'lift' because that's the one that is sprung, not the top.

IMHO Both would have to be done, and with bigger spacers, to be meaningful.
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Re: Balljoint Lift - DIY

Post by Mr Glan »

The second picture shows the entire bottom crosmember and lower arms are on a spacer braket ?. Will spacing the upper arm alone have any advantage ?
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Re: Balljoint Lift - DIY

Post by Mud Dog »

Old age eyesight! Sorry did'nt pick up on the spacing of the complete cross member. Obviously then that would negate my critiques about spacing the top only, which would serve no advantage.
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Re: Balljoint Lift - DIY

Post by BlumTRD »

Ek bring net gou die post op vir Piesang :) aka Oom Pieter
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Re: Balljoint Lift - DIY

Post by Piesang »

Dankie David, dis vir die ouens wat my gevra het oor die speacers wat ek in my bakkie in gesit het. :thumbup: :thumbup:
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Re: Balljoint Lift - DIY

Post by Piesang »

Ek het net nie die deel weg gesny soos die fotos wys nie, ek het die lip meer uit gerol deur dit met 'n shifter uit tebuig en met 'n stomp punsh te slaan tot dat dit genoeg weg gekrul het dat die blok inpas.
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Re: Balljoint Lift - DIY

Post by Piesang »

Die manne wat wonder of dit bo en onder moet gedoen word ek het ook eers so gedink. As ek dit in boere taal kan beskryf die veering werk net op die boonste arm en die ondesre arm hou die wile net in plek onder die boonste arm. deur dus 'n verenging tusse die wiel en die boonste arm in te sit lig jy die onderstel van die wiel af op en die onderste arm maak net bietjie wyer oop. Dis soos 'n blok tussen die bed en bedpoot in tesit, die rit raak net hoor, skies man die in klim raak net hoor.
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Re: Balljoint Lift - DIY

Post by Toni »

Sorry Piesang :? but due to my very sleg Afrikaans, I am not sure if you just said what I am.
I did this lift about 100 000km ago and it DOES work. I have 32" BFG fitted and they do not touch ever, before they did sometimes.
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Re: Balljoint Lift - DIY

Post by ThysdJ »

even I didnt understand so mooi... :twisted: :twisted:
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Re: Balljoint Lift - DIY

Post by Family_Dog »

This is why Cassie always asks for 'peekchas'! :)


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Re: Balljoint Lift - DIY

Post by Mud Dog »

Ja it must work ... simply put, the cross member which carries the lower control arm is spaced, providing the lift. The upper control arm ball joint is spaced by a similar amount to maintain the geometry. :wink:
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Re: Balljoint Lift - DIY

Post by Bundu »

Waar kan ek n stel van die Balljoint spacer in die hande kry gaan in die volgende paar dae 32" opsit en het hulle nodig het n paar plekke op die net gesien waar ek dit kan koop.
MAXXIS BIGHORN 31' THAT GRIP LIKE A BULL
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Re: Balljoint Lift - DIY

Post by CasKru »

Ek kan nie imagine dat die CV joints baie happy gaan wees met die change nie. Op daai fodies in die begin lyk die angles redelik kwaai :shock: :shock:
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Re: Balljoint Lift - DIY

Post by yotaman »

Please note this is not my Pictures
Haai (dis mostert na die maal hier) wat het van die fodies geword? Can someone please put them back :beg: if only for a while!
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Re: Balljoint Lift - DIY

Post by Johannes van die See »

Waar is die fotos heen, ek stel ook belang in meer inligting, die job moet gedoen word!!!
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Re: Balljoint Lift - DIY

Post by Johannes van die See »

Leesstof..........

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/Bal ... acer.shtml" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
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Re: Balljoint Lift - DIY

Post by Johannes van die See »

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These spacers are 1.5"/38mm tall and provide about that much lift over stock suspension settings as well as that much more overall travel. Actual lift height will depend upon the vehicle's weight distribution and actual torsion bar adjustment which may be 1.5" more or less than the spacer height. Whether or not you prefer enhanced compression travel for high speed trips through desert washes or a balance between compression and extension travel more suited for rocky trails, these spacers will increase your functionality and ability to custom tailor your suspension characteristics while increasing clearance between the fenders and front wheels. If 1.5" is too tall for your needs, 1" and 0.5" spacers are available on special order. An installed 4WD spacer is shown on the far right hand image, above. And also available for the 2WD Toyota pickups as shown in the lower right hand image above.

When combined with a mild rear suspension lift, either a lift shackle or block or coil spring spacer, and possibly a mild body lift, it is easy and relatively inexpensive to fit 33" tires under an IFS truck. While a full 4" - 6" IFS spacer lift can be installed and will work fine for 33" tires, for less than 1/2 the price and less than half the time and effort, you can install a milder lift that will actually work better than the taller lift. In fitting with the 4Crawler Offroad motto of "lift as much as you need, but as little as possible", why use a 4" - 6" lift when 1.5"-2.5" will work just as well, if not better? With less lift, your center of gravity will be lower, driveline angles will be less, brake lines will usually not need to be extended, and overall there will be less stress on the components.
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Re: Balljoint Lift - DIY

Post by Johannes van die See »

4WD Ball Joint Spacer Installation:

* Block the rear wheels and place the front end of the truck on jack stands and remove the front wheels.
* Remove the original ball joint hardware.
o Knock the studs out of the ball joint with a small hammer.
o This is done most easily if the joint is pressed against the arm supported with a floor jack, as shown below.
* Unbolt the upper shock hardware.
* If you have greaseable ball joints, this is a good time to give them a shot of lubrication.
o Also, if needed, you can swap out an angled grease fitting for a straight one to allow for later greasing.
Image
* Trim the outer lip of the upper control arm (UCA) as depicted in the above picture.
o An angle grinder with a cut-off wheel or a small reciprocating saw works well for this task.
o How much to trim?
+ Just enough to allow installation of the spacer.
* Alternately, you can bend out the outer lip of the UCA with a 2-4 lb. sledge hammer.
* Put the spacer in place, NOTCH FACING DOWNWARD and, using a floor jack to control arm height, align the ball joint and install the hardware.
o The notch acts as a weep hole to let any water that gets in from above drain out to prevent the ball joint from rusting out.
* Tighten ball joint hardware to 25 ft.lb. or 35 N.m.
o Note: Apply this torque to the allen head bolt and the Grade 10.9 nut only, then install the 2nd nylon lock nut and tighten it down snugly in order to lock the first nut in place. No need to toque the nylon lock nut to 25 ft.lb. value, it may strip.
o If you wish, you can spray the exposed head and threads of the bolts with some paint, as the black oxide coated hardware may tend to rust over time.
* Extend the shock to see if it needs shimming. (it likely will)
o Place the appropriate number of washers to ensure the shock does not limit down travel.
* Tighten shock hardware.
* Repeat for other side.
* Re-install the wheels.
o If the end of the upper control arm is too close to the tire at this point, there are several options:
+ You can try and grind off part of the outer lip of the control arm (area at the left edge of the red circle in the photo above)
+ You can add a 1/4" wheel spacer to move the wheel/tire away from the suspension.
+ You can swap to a narrower tire, for example changing from a 33x12.50 to a 33x10.50 tire will move the inner edge of the tire away from the control arm since it'll have less sidewall bulge on the same wheel.
+ You can swap to a wheel with less back side spacing, for example going from a 4.75" to a 4.5" backspaced wheel will move the inner edge of the wheel and tire 1/4" away from the control arm (stock wheels are ~4.75" backspacing).
* Put the vehicle back on the ground.
* For low profile bump stops only:
o Shim them approx. 1/2" with some washers or use stock bump stops.
o Failure to do so could result in damage to CV joints, shocks, or other components.
o Low profile bump stops are typically made of polyurethane and will be colored red or some other color as shown below.
+ Stock bump stops are typically a black runner material by comparison.
* Even with stock bump stops, you may experience some CV axle binding.
o To check, let the suspension hang at full droop.
+ Easy to do this when you finish installing the spacers, as the front end should be up in the air.
o Rotate each CV axle shaft by hand and check for any binding at the CV joints and also check with the wheels turned to the steering stops in each direction.
+ Also, you may want to feel the CV axle rotation before installing the spacers, just to familiarize yourself with what they feel like "normally".
o If felt, several options to fix it are available:
+ Add some shims as shown above for the low profile bump stops.
+ Or install a front differential drop kit to lower the differential and thus lessen the CV joint angles.
* Re-adjust torsion bars, if needed
o If the ride height is what you want it to be after installing the ball joint spacers, there is no need to make any adjustments.
o There are good instructions on the 4x4Wire.com Toyota page. and a separate write up on the OffRoad.com Toyota page:
In short:
+ Spray the torsion bar hardware with a penetrating lubricant.
+ Wipe all debris off of the threads.
+ Spray them again.
+ Jack up the front to unload the bars.
+ Adjust them with a 22mm wrench.
+ Lower the truck.
+ Bounce the front end and roll the truck back and forth at least 10 feet.
+ Repeat until the front is level and at desired height.
# The measurement between the fender lip and edge of rim should be about 15 - 15.5".
# This would be the case for 1.5" lift, stock height is 13.5" - 14".
* Get an alignment!
o It has been observed that some driveway alignment adjusting is beneficial and easy to do.
o Following these simple steps will make life easier for the alignment tech who, to be honest, might not be prepared for a vehicle that is any other than bone stock and only slightly out of alignment.
o First make sure the ride height is set to where you want it.
+ If not, adjust it with the torsion bar adjusters
o Loosen the adjustment cams on the lower a-arms making a note of each bolt's orientation.
o Move the lower arms outward until two things happen.
+ (It will likely be necessary to lift the front end while adjusting and roll the truck forward and backward after each adjustment.) One, the tires appear vertical.
+ Two, all cams are adjusted to mirror those on the opposing arm and in a position *closely* relative to where they started. (It is more important that the tires be vertical than the hardware be exactly relative to it's originating position)
+ For example, if the driver's side front cam is pointing straight up and the driver's side rear cam is pointing outward, the passenger side front cam should be straight up and rear outward.
+ If, before adjustment, say the rears were angles outward 30 degrees more than the front, after adjustment the rears should still be outward about 30 degrees. Again this is not as critical as trying to get the tires vertical.
o Adjust the toe by loosening the adjusters and rotating.
+ It is a good idea to lock the steering wheel in a straight position.
+ What you adjust to one side, do to the other. Typically about .5-.25" of toe is fine.
+ If you have trouble measuring, simply attempt to get them straight or angling in slightly.
o You'd be surprised how close one can get these measurements with just the eye.
+ However, perfection is not necessary, this will simply get you in the ball part and help to avoid the "blank stare" when an alignment tech sees his numbers are out and doesn't know which nut to turn which way. (you'd be surprised how often this happens with 4X4s)
o You should recheck the height after this.
+ If you find you adjust the height severely, which is unlikely, and the tires are clearly off (by the eye), repeat these steps.
o Here is a link to a description of a driveway alignment procedure
+ And another link with the same information and photos
o A visit to an alignment shop is definitely recommended!
+ You may need to shop around for a good alignment shop as some may tell you they can't align the truck because it is "modified".
+ Don't be "wowed" by the shop with the fanciest computerized equipment, either. You may find the technicians at such shops may throw up their hands if the computer says the alignment is too far out.
+ Look for a local "mom and pop" shop when they will actually understand how to align the front end and are willing to work with the available adjustments and make it work. There should be adequate adjustment range in the front suspension adjusting cams to handle the ball joint spacers and changed ride height, assuming the front end is not damaged.
* Re-check hardware torque in 2 weeks.
* If you find problems with your CV joints binding due to the steeper angles or find the CV joint boots rubbing and wearing out faster, you might consider adding a front differential drop kit.
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Re: Balljoint Lift - DIY

Post by Johannes van die See »

En ek het nounet trugvoering van "4Crawler Offroad" gekry vir bestellings.......

Pricing and shipping (international to South Africa) as noted below:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/Bal ... tml#4WDBJS" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

1-1/2" 4WD ball joint spacers are priced at US$99.00 per pair
$14.00 uninsured international (minimally trackable) Priority Mail shipping
* 6-10 days typical delivery time
* For countries that accept US Priority Mail International
o This includes Canada, Mexico, most countries in Europe, Asia, South America, Africa, etc.
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Re: Balljoint Lift - DIY

Post by Johannes van die See »

En vir die wat belangstel in "Toyota Front Differential and Sway Bar Drop Kits"
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/DiffDrop.shtml" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
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Re: Balljoint Lift - DIY

Post by Piesang »

Johannes van die see, ek het gekyk na jou bydra en wil weer net byvoeg dat ek die ouens eerder sal aanraai om nie te sny vir die pas nie, maar eerder die lip verder uit terol om sterkte te hou, dis wat ek gedoen het.
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Re: Balljoint Lift - DIY

Post by Johannes van die See »

Pieter

Ek stem saam met jou, die informasie kom van"4Crawler Offroad" se site af en daar is soveel ander bruikbare informasie daar.
Omdat ek soveel belangstel in die mod het ek self ondersoek gaan doen en lyk vir my dat dit wel n goei opsie is om te oorweeg, mits jy die diff drop saam doen om stress van die CV's af te haal, en dan ook die "Sway Bar drop" vir meer rol beheer.

Die totale kit deur die manne bestelbaar kos maar $162 met shipping ingesluit, dan doen jy die "Ball Joint Lift", die "Diff Drop" en die "Sway Bar Drop" altesame.

Hoop die informasie kan ander ook meer lig op die onderwerp gee........
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Re: Balljoint Lift - DIY

Post by Piesang »

Johannes van die See wrote:
Die totale kit deur die manne bestelbaar kos maar $162 met shipping ingesluit, dan doen jy die "Ball Joint Lift", die "Diff Drop" en die "Sway Bar Drop" altesame.
Ek dink dis 'n baie goeie prys vir alles saam.
Ek het net die Ball joints gedoen en sal graag nog die res wil doen so ek sal die web site merk.
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Re: Balljoint Lift - DIY

Post by Johannes van die See »

As iemand dalk die parte in SA vervaardig sal dit nog goedkoper wees, en dit lyk baie eenvoudig....... wat van Gomad se manne?
Is iemand bereid om dit hier beskukbaar te maak?
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Re: Balljoint Lift - DIY

Post by Piesang »

Johannes van die See wrote:As iemand dalk die parte in SA vervaardig sal dit nog goedkoper wees, en dit lyk baie eenvoudig....... wat van Gomad se manne?
Is iemand bereid om dit hier beskukbaar te maak?
Ek het myne plaaslik gekry deur Blum. maar dit lyk my hy is nie meer op die forum nie.
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