Fitting an AFR Gauge and Lambda Sensor to an SFA

Modifications to any other vehicles or things which can benefit any of the other vehicles owners.
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Dadz Toy BFI

Fri Jul 31, 2009 8:28 pm

So I finally got around to fitting my Air Fuel Ratio (AFR) Gauge to Dadz powered by the Lambda Sensor I imported from JustLambda in my home town (Hull) in the UK. :roll:

After battling to find a purpose made flange to weld onto my exhaust I went on the hunt for a lekker nut to weld on instead. :idea:

I finally found the correct threaded nut, they had two so I bought them both - so there's one going to anyone that needs to install an AFR or EGT Gauge. :thumbup:

Quite a while since I picked up a welder but all went to plan: :Geek:

1. First I blew a hole in the 50mm stainless steel free flow pipe (just after the joint with the Brospeed Manifold) with an Oxy Acetylene Cutting Torch, beats drilling with my makita :twisted:
2. Then MIG'd the nut to the pipe - all straight forward, 15 minute job. :P


I ran a 2mm wire from the AFR gauge in ripsleeving (taped to death as per the usual spec) :roll: and took it through the drainage plug in the front passenger foot-well. :Geek:

I mounted the AFR Gauge on the steering column, it fits so perfectly that one would almost think that the space was purpose made for the Gauge, or any Auto Gauge :mrgreen:

Of course I took peekchaz, peekchaz speak 1000 words in any language nê :thumbup: :mrgreen:
Attachments
P7314241- Just lambda Sensor.jpg
P7314244 - Lambda wiring through drain plug.jpg
P7314246-Couple of Cable ties and 5mm Neopreme!.jpg
P7314250-AFR Gauge cradled on Steering Column.jpg
P7314256-Driver's View.jpg

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Family_Dog
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Fri Jul 31, 2009 9:40 pm

Nice job, Rich. Hope you used silicon wire! :wink:


-F_D
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White Fang: 1999 2.7i DC Raider 4x4
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Jaws
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Fri Jul 31, 2009 9:59 pm

According to the gauge you are running Rich :problem:
:thumbup:

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Family_Dog
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Fri Jul 31, 2009 10:02 pm

Jaws wrote:According to the gauge you are running Rich :problem:
Sharp!! :clap:


-F_D
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White Fang: 1999 2.7i DC Raider 4x4
Bull Dog: 1987 4Y-EFI 2.2 DC 4x4
Pra Dog: 1998 Prado VX 3.4
Hound Dog: 2000 2.7i SC 4x4


One Staffie, One Jack Russell, One Ring Neck Screecher, 17 Fish of questionable heritage


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Dadz Toy BFI

Fri Jul 31, 2009 10:37 pm

Jaws wrote:According to the gauge you are running Rich :problem:
Yebo :!:

That's at tickover Herman, we set the Dicktators with retarded ignition right down at 750 to 1000rpm to make the Idle Control Valve (I.C.V.) pull the motor back up - it consequently over fuels but allows max. horsepower when crawling up an incline :Geek: :wink:
Last edited by Dadz Toy BFI on Sun Aug 02, 2009 8:54 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Jaws
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Sat Aug 01, 2009 8:19 am

I thought so, I was just playing with your name :thumbup:
:thumbup:

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ravenvonmolendorff
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Sat Aug 01, 2009 9:44 am

Sorry to sound stupid what is this AFR gauge for?


Thanks André

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Mr_B
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Sat Aug 01, 2009 10:45 am

ravenvonmolendorff wrote:Sorry to sound stupid what is this AFR gauge for?


Thanks André
The lambda sensor measures the air-fuel ratio(AFR), and the AFR gauge displays the results...

It's kind of like having a CO meter permanently plugged into the exhaust, you will always be able to see if the engine is running lean or rich, under all driving conditions... and then adjust it if nessecary...

Richard, BTW... if the engine is running to rich at idle, it is possible to adjust the fuel map on the Dicktator, if you get the AFR right at low RPM you will gain more power... running too rich will steal a bit of power! But first start with a proper dyno!

B

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Sat Aug 01, 2009 10:54 am

Richard, one more question from me... how do you know that the AFR gauge and lambda sensor are calibrated to work together? Are the specs for all Lambda sensors and AFR gauges the same, or do you need to match the gauge with a specific sensor, or vise-versa??

Now the next thing you need to do is fit a POT to the Dicktator and activate the AFR compensation on the Dicktator, that way you will be able to fine tune your air-fuel ratio on the fly! You can also set how fine/rough this POT adjusts...

If it turns out to be really beneficially I may consider fitting one of these myself!

B :thumbup:

BenHur
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Sun Aug 02, 2009 2:31 am

snipes wrote: Now the next thing you need to do is fit a POT to the Dicktator and activate the AFR compensation on the Dicktator, that way you will be able to fine tune your air-fuel ratio on the fly! You can also set how fine/rough this POT adjusts...

B :thumbup:
No please dont. If it was properly dynoed use the AFR only for info purpuses do not scratch where it does not itch..

BTW Bretton you do not always have to achieve a stoichiometric mixture (14.7) at idling, your engine may run better at leaner or richer values depending on its state (age / modifications and the ambient air density etc.) The name of the game is not fuel efficiency rather effective effort. Give the engine what she needs to calm her down rather then to worry about AFR. Unplug the ICV and play with the mixture values upand down and see at what value the RPM drops when going richer as well as leaner and find a spot in the middle of those 2 values as the perfect spot. Redo the test once or twice at different atmosphric conditions ( note your previous values) and find the best all round spot. Effective effort is an average value that works well under all conditions rather the being at optimal AFR all the time

What you rather need though is once an engine is cruising (finished accelerating and settling down) is to achieve as close as possible to 14.7 at your normal average driving speeds or at light throttle (low load) she can actually run way lean and and hard acceleration and high RPMs you want her rich again as fuel cools down the engine. You do not want a lean mixture at 3/4 throttle at 4500rpm (except if you are not fond of your head gasket :twisted: )

Rich You missed a spot when welding the nut in place :twisted: :twisted:

Dadz Toy BFI

Sun Aug 02, 2009 9:12 pm

BenHur wrote:
snipes wrote: Now the next thing you need to do is fit a POT to the Dicktator and activate the AFR compensation on the Dicktator, that way you will be able to fine tune your air-fuel ratio on the fly! You can also set how fine/rough this POT adjusts...

B :thumbup:
No please don't. If it was properly dynoed use the AFR only for info purposes do not scratch where it does not itch..

BTW Bretton you do not always have to achieve a stoichiometric mixture (14.7) at idling, your engine may run better at leaner or richer values depending on its state (age / modifications and the ambient air density etc.) The name of the game is not fuel efficiency rather effective effort. Give the engine what she needs to calm her down rather then to worry about AFR. Unplug the ICV and play with the mixture values up and down and see at what value the RPM drops when going richer as well as leaner and find a spot in the middle of those 2 values as the perfect spot. Redo the test once or twice at different atmospheric conditions ( note your previous values) and find the best all round spot. Effective effort is an average value that works well under all conditions rather the being at optimal AFR all the time

What you rather need though is once an engine is cruising (finished accelerating and settling down) is to achieve as close as possible to 14.7 at your normal average driving speeds or at light throttle (low load) she can actually run way lean and and hard acceleration and high RPMs you want her rich again as fuel cools down the engine. You do not want a lean mixture at 3/4 throttle at 4500rpm (except if you are not fond of your head gasket :twisted: )

Rich You missed a spot when welding the nut in place :twisted: :twisted:
Hey Bennie, my mate no longer owns the fitment centre so I was sweating Big Time hey - it's "been a while" since I studied at tech nê :shifty:

I can give some good feedback nou Manne:

Most Importantly:
An AFR Gauge is purely for "Intel Only" Manne, no way could you try and tune with it, it's a second or two slow to re-act to throttle changes.

I'm only considering fitting a Pot for Altitude Correction with my "Big Africa Trip" approaching enol :roll:

1. Dadz tends to run "just rich" most of the time; on the highway this weekend the gauge was showing on the last bar or two of "Optimum" at 3500RPM+ :thumbup:
2. At Urban speeds she runs in the early bars of "Rich"
3. Crawling is well into the "Rich"
4. AFR Gauge misreads if plugs foul-up/stop start-cold start scenario, comes right after a quick cruise.

I bought a Single Wire Lambda that means that it creates an Output only, multi-wire Lambda's have heaters which bring them up to temp faster and regulate temp, only necessary for Lambda's that talk to Engine Management Systems. My Lambda takes 3 minutes or so from cold engine start to send an Output. :Geek:

Bretton - Lamba's and AFR's need no calibration it's dependant on the Lamda's Output Voltage Range :Geek: :wink:

BenHur
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Sun Aug 02, 2009 10:08 pm

I was pulling your leg but I sure made you look didn't I ? :twisted: :twisted:

Dadz Toy BFI

Sun Aug 02, 2009 10:18 pm

BenHur wrote:I was pulling your leg but I sure made you look didn't I ? :twisted: :twisted:

Have stared, felt, listened (sweated) for leaks since taking the plunge the other day.....

all the time I couldnt help thinking about a very naughty joke with the punch line -Am not really a welder Sir :!: :!: - :twisted: :twisted:

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Dadz Toy
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Sun Jul 03, 2016 4:34 pm

Almost 7 yrs to the date I have finally fitted a POT to my Dicktator.
I'm chose the range of -12% to +12% from the Dicktators menu.
I'll feed back after we do a long run the Coopers Tire Night Challenge.



Rich :cooldude:
Back from the Dead!
I dream of a 3UZ, but my 4Y just keeps going 100%
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