Lexus v8 conversion

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Sat Dec 29, 2012 9:18 pm

Hi, am really keen to do a Lexus v8 conversion on my 1995 22r
A few questions?
I spoke to a guy named Pat, the owner of pats conversions
He said he would do the conversion for 48k drop off, drive out
Does anyone know how is his workmanship?
He does seem like a legit guy,

also said that I would get 10-13ks a liter
Average ,running factory ecu, can anyone confirm this.

Also should I go manual or auto, love manual but apparently the auto
Is lighter on fuel and a stronger box with smooth gear changes.

Will the v8 power warp the axles if I rape it?
Do I really need to change diff ratios

To guys who have done the conversion, is it worth the cost?
Is it as reliable as the 22 R, Or should I just opt for an efi kit on the 22r or the golf carb

I know for sure I will love it but would like to hear from someone who has done it.:D

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Sat Dec 29, 2012 10:53 pm

Welcome to the forum!

I personally think it is too much, but am sure the others will vouch the same.

There is a couple of guys that did a Lexus conversion and some that some serious issues. But it is worth it.
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Sun Dec 30, 2012 4:14 am

If you realy want to go the lexus route, you can Pm Mark Watson on the forum.
He has done a few of them and claiming to average of 13km/l on a lexus.
The most common problem with the lexus conversion is overheating.
I'd rather go the EFi route if there is nothing wrong with 22R.
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Sun Dec 30, 2012 3:24 pm

Nether heard of Pat's conversions before.
The quality of the conversion is crucial. There are guys on this forum who could nether sort out all the problems after a conversion and then there are guys who are very happy with their conversions.
So spend the time and make sure about the guy doing the conversion, the price might be cheap but it might turn out expensive if he does not do it right.
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Sun Dec 30, 2012 5:30 pm

This will always be one of those topics which you will get a split vote. :crazy:

I for one was one of the guys who were 100% against the conversion until I was sort of forced into doing one. And all I can say is WOW. Would I ever do it again? Absofreakinglutely...

Now before you decide to do it as yourself a few questions.
1: What do I want to use my vehicle for?
2: Am I willing to risk only getting 5km/l?
3: Am I willing to wait for the job to be complete?
4: What engine management?
5: Most importantly - can I handle all the fun that comes with the Lexus???

Now I did a huge amount of research before doing my vehicle and then I took the plunge.

After market or OEM management? I say Original management - reason is that toyota and lexus have spent billions perfecting their managements so they work. Why play around with that?
Manual or auto? - depends on what you want. I chose Auto as my van was originally auto. Perfect gear shifting, smooth ride, no loss of power nor speed because of not having a clutch. Also I did not need any adaptor plates or mods to get my transfer case to fit and work correctly.
Radiator and heating issues? - most will say go for a BMW 740 radiator and so on because of the heat problems. Well I didn't. I kept my std 2.4turbo diesel radiator and made a few mods to it such as adding a radiator cap and heat switch. I have already done +-5k km on it and not even a hint of heating problems. Might be too soon to tell but I doubt.
Fuel economy? - I get (or should I say my wife) gets 6.5km/l in traffic with 3.875 diff ratios and running 33" mud tires. I have heard of guys getting 11 - 13km/l but keep in mind they are few and far between.

These are just a few of my personal points. Remember that it is your choice. There are few things that can compare to the V8. Just bare in mind that there WILL be small issues and niggles to sort out as you go along and after but once all is done it will have been worth it all.

Good luck with your choice. :thumbup:
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Sun Dec 30, 2012 11:36 pm

Francisco summed it up very well!!

would like to add just 2c more to it!!

the 11-13km/l, have big doubts about that!!
you cant make the power without burning the fuel!! that is physics!!

have a Jeep 4.7l V8, fuel consumption is better the my V6, however its still a big motor that need to be fed!!
and V6s are better on fuel then the big bore 4pots!!

maybe the guys are getting between 11-13L/100, that sound a lot more possible!! on the open road
have gotten similar out of my jeep, and the lexus is suppose to be a more efficient motor!!

as for the Box, have much pleasure out of the Auto Jeep
reason why for the Lexus conversion I plan to stay Manual, is so that I just have to make the motor fit to the gearbox, not play with transfer cases, and prop shafts!!, and in my case with the lexus going into the courier that made even more sense to me, no relocating of gear leavers, no auto box gear linkages

and in preparation, have already fitted the bmw radiator that is doing duty with the V6 till I get around to doing the Lexus V8 conversion

hope this helps!! :cooldude:
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Mon Dec 31, 2012 8:48 am

david very valid questions.
48k if aircon and stainless zorst is included is a good price , some guys are getting quoted 80k which is ridiculous , but they are busy so there are guys out there that are prepared to pay that , i would charge around 44 - 46k in the new year , just sit down and work a rough costing yourself and you will be suprised.
motor and box R6800-00
ecu's and shifter R8550-00
service ( belts, seals ) R2500-00
adaptor for box R2500-00
rad R2500-00
oil cooler R1000-00
zorst R2800-00
pumps and surge tank R2000-00
now you are sitting on over 28k but you still have stuff like power steering pipes , mountings , stripping the motor and cleaning properly , plating , powdercoating , centre console , hoses , clamps , labour etc so at the end of the day just over 40k is not that bad.
but please if you look and the motor has not been stripped and cleaned properly , and just has the powdercoated manifold and covers then leave alone , have had so many that have neat covers but the rest looks like hell and its a case of just keep the bonnet closed , you must be proud to open the bonnet at any time.

and yes i have got 400 kays before on 30 litres but with a 2wd with standard tyres ( my own hilux ) but then im feathering the throttle. customers are getting between 6 and 11 km/l but it all comes down to driving style.
with the 4x4 double cab you will be anywhere between 6 - 9km/l depending on how you drive .
had a guy that complained that it was heavy and he said he does not drive fast 120 max but when driving with him he always had to be the first at the robot and i think he used more petrol just getting to 120 , it was foot flat all the way and then cruise.
personally the auto is the way as the standard 22r box will not hold especially if you put bigger tyres on , i did warn a member here on it but he was adamant he wanted the manual now its booked back in for the auto ( when he decides to pay me for the replacement manual box that we fitted for him over a weekend because he was going on holiday ) , but remember it is not just bolt out and bolt in the auto there is a bit of work involved contrary to what some people believe. as for ecu your choice but bare in mind if you are not happy with the gearchange and you have the standard ecu you are stuffed , then it becomes diff ratio change etc and becomes costly. standard ecu for the motor is fine , works well , but i still believe that just about everybody has a laptop nowadays and it is nice to plug in and see what is wrong and even what is happening yourself.
the standard transfer and diffs are up to the job but you can break anything if you try , as for the rad yes the beemer one is the way to go , just do a 60mm bodylift.
had a couple of guys come in now over the hols and they have had the conversion done with the spitronics but i just dont know why the guys think just wire it in and go , it has to be set up properly as all i did this hols is setup the systems for a good few people. ( gearchange etc )
but that said do your home work as its a lot of moolla and remember it is your van at the end of the day and you must be happy with what you decide to do.
the 22r is a very good motor but when the guys start going for bigger tyres and start kitting out the luxes thats when the 22r runs into a wall you can fuel inject it but you are still flogging a dead horse , it will cost money for very little gain , at the end of the day you are looking for the torque to cruise comfortably and over take so you will not get better bang for buck than the lexus , personally i would stick to the normal 1uz as its still a good motor and more than capable in the lux , you can go the vvt route but it will cost more , and at the end of the day is an extra 6 - 8k worth the extra 10kw on the wheels.
i have seen some rough ones done before so you have to check the stuff out ( thanks tim , naas did pass on the compliment from you , and it was a pleasure at lextreme the other day to meet you guys we will be seeing more of each other in the future , it was good as we both have our own opinions but there was no funny stuff just good conversation and i did enjoy myself )
even had a cussie in with a bm z3 that he had spent over 140k on the m3 motor ( turbo etc ) and at 0.6 bar it had +-260kw and 450nm on the wheels , but and its a big but he boosted it more to 1.6 bar and went through 3 motors this year at a hefty price , so he thought what the hell and i helped him drop a lexus 1uz in boosted it to 0.6 bar ( stock motor , he did not even have a chance to clean it ) and voila 280kw and 512nm on the wheels and he did the conversion in under 3 weeks so yes its rough , but in the new year we will prep a motor properly ( rods and pistons )and then fit it in and boost about 1.2 bar then take the old one fix up a bit and drop it in his hilux.
but his point is if he stuffs the motor up it will only cost him just under 7k for another one. not 30 - 40 k
Last edited by mark watson on Mon Dec 31, 2012 9:23 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Mon Dec 31, 2012 9:19 am

I agree with you Mark regarding the Auto which is not just a bolt in but that also depends on the vehicle. In my case it was. :thumbup:

Regarding the ecu, is it always a good idea to have take your van in every now and again to have it set? It takes time to set it exactly the way you want it? Bare in mind that the oem ecu is an "intelligent ecu". In otherwords it sets itself according to driving style and climate etc. and there is no dyno tuning required, ever. You are also able to take it to any dealer who will be able to run a diagnostics on it. Another question, according to my knowledge one does not use all the sensors on the engine and drivetrain when using an after market ecu and auto controller. You do with the oem. Is that not a better idea? Sorry, dont want to start a big discussion here, I am just really interested and am still deciding on what I want to do with my planned 3UZ.
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Mon Dec 31, 2012 10:37 am

do agree francisco , you were lucky with the surf as it makes it so much easier with the auto ,
with regards to the ecu , there is nothing wrong by putting the original ecu in , it does set itself but at the same time not all dealers will help you i have had it before , i just like to be able to setup myself and be able to tune the motor for what i want ,
have had before where a guy put a lexus motor and box in his mahindra and you had to wind it to about 150 before the original ecu thought ok im now fast enough for overdrive, all i did was fit a spitronics and voila it now drives like a dream , the other thing is speed limiters and the like that is part of the original ecu , make no mistake depending on the conversion the original ecu works fine , did a lexus gs 300 the other day and we fitted the original ecu and it works well . but horses for courses .
i just like the idea that for under 1k i can carry a spare ecu ( and it is only as big as a packet of smokes ) that has my map on already in my spare box when going on trips and if something happens i can sort out , and who nowadays does not have a laptop with them on holiday so i can plug in and check things for myself , the other plus is if the gearbox ecu plays up i can just unplug it and drive manually and it wont affect the engine ecu , but on the original ecu you cant as it goes into limp mode.
yes we dont use all the sensors but at the end of the day just go back to basics and it works well.
at the end of the day both have their good and bad points and it has to be your decision at the end of the day , there is a lot of original and aftermarket conversions running around and both run well , if you have the original ecu and want a bit more then the obvious route is the unichip but then its another 4k plus , so you have to weigh it up.

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Mon Dec 31, 2012 1:18 pm

Thanks guys,puzzle is coming together nicely


To Mark this is the quote I was given with a breakdown of costs
What do you think?


With regards to your request the following and obvious my personal favor is the auto transmission with an tunnel Adaptor for the transfer casing
 
Cost of a late model (1997 and upwards) 1UZ motor + transmission with management system serviced and bench tested with the necessary mods on the motor itself R24 800.00.
Yes you can get them cheaper obvious without the necessary mods and or serviced and obvious without a warranty.
 
1. New set of sparkplugs
2. Serviced injectors
3. Serviced starter motor (this means the entire intake has to be removed)
4. Serviced alternator
5. Mod to the spider
6. New crank seals
7. New cam belt and bearings (Cam belt kit)
8. New V- belt
9. New oil filter
10. Only the best oil
11. Color code the engine to your taste (valve covers and intake) the rest of the engine normally get sprayed silver. Or we use aluminum cleaner and bring the motor back to its original factory state.
 
Installation cost of R33, 200.00 includes the following
12. Custom made branches
13. New Exhaust system ( you to decide if you want some noise or quite)
14. Lamda sensors into both banks.
15. Custom made engine mountings
16. Custom made transmission mounting
17. Custom made adaptor tunnel with carrier bearing for the transfer casing.
18. Radiator mod if needed (If the radiator seems good it will in anyway be removed send for servicing)
19. Mod to the power steering configuration (pipe work)
20. Aircon mod (pipe work) and filled
21. Modified Sump if needed
22. Distance oil filter if needed
23. We always try and keep your original air intake filter but with some conversions we have to done away with it, although with your car it will not be an problem (This is to keep the noise down)
24. Piggy back into your exciting ECU in order to keep the dash alive
25. A 1” to 1½” body lift if desired @ extra cost.
 
 
You can roughly round it off to about R58, 500.00 for a 1UZ FE conversion then
 
 
 
 
All our work carries a three month warranty and we need between 2 to 3 weeks to have the conversion done, however we can do such a conversion in 2 weeks time depends on that all logistics to be in place. If you have booked your car and a holding deposit is paid, a complete serviced motor and gearbox will be allocated to you and prepare in advance for the conversion.
 
Not only will you save on time with regards to your conversion but you will also ensure that you will receive an only the best.
 
Now why do I say original ECU with Auto transmission??  
• Fuel consumption
• Performance
• And just the relaxing way of not changing gears specific in traffic and believe me that there is no better option with an auto transmission when do off road driving.
• This transmission is an intelligent select transmission (it preselect the next gear even before the selection was done)
 
Fitment of motor includes the following:
 
 
• A complete serviced motor with all necessary seals and gaskets replaced
• New Exhaust system (Performance System)​R 2, 900.00​
• Oil Cooler​​R 3, 850.00
• Pipe work ​R 2, 500.00
• Aircon connection and filled​R 1, 600.00
• WSS​R 1, 200.00
• New Flywheel to fit 1UZ with manual gearbox​R 4, 450.00
• Modified Bell housing ​R 6, 800.00
 
Total price all inclusive ​R58, 500.00
 

This Quote excludes any unforeseen and or hidden defects on your vehicle.
 
We can also cut the price by almost R10,000.00 by not doing point 1 - 8, 23 and obvious then I cant give you an warranty on the motor, apart form the initial warranty that I receive of 1 month from my suppliers to the engine and gearbox.


 
Last edited by Motive on Mon Dec 31, 2012 1:32 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Mon Dec 31, 2012 1:26 pm

on the original ecu it does not have the function , have not tried yet to wire it in , but you only want the torque convertor to lock up in 1st and 2nd but only in low range , the spitronics has the function when you select low range and you physically put the shifter in 1st or 2nd and you select low range on the profile switch it will lock the torque convertor and also make the gearbox think it is only a 2 speed box , if you need 3rd gear in low range then go back to high range 1st gear.

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Mon Dec 31, 2012 1:38 pm

after Mark's comment of carrying a spare ecu when going away. . . .

and me not trying to start anything on here, just wondering

how reliable the spitronics is?

so

so many broken/caput spitronics ecu have the guys heard about?

. :cooldude:
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Mon Dec 31, 2012 2:06 pm

good point fernando as what has been said is do your homework and see for yourself , i just had a guy in now at the shop and he is doing his own sfa lux at home and we helped him with the harness and the transfer adaptor - he was just asking about the alt wiring , i have had a lot of guys come through just to see whats what and they tackle it themselves and i will gladly give help or advice when they need it , i can only speak for myself but i have had 2 failures 1 was my fault in not paying attention when doing the wiring ( school fees of note ) , the other was a cussie that connected his bat the wrong way round , the unit still powered up but would not switch the main relays on , so to get him home from lesotho we just connected the wires together at the relays and it fired up , but when he stopped he had to disconnect the bat , but in both cases it cost 500 bucks for a replacement board ( swop out ) ,
as for keeping one as a spare for overlanding trips just gives you peace of mind knowing that you have it ,
at the end of the day it comes down to installation as to how reliable it is , i suppose its the same for anything electronic or electrical on a vehicle

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Mon Dec 31, 2012 3:45 pm

sorry david did not see the quote you posted

the quote seems to be for a vvt motor , price fair with management , my only concern with the 5 speed box is the transfer gets pushed quite far back and this opens another can of worms with regards to props etc , naas has the same issue now with luxi .

as for the rest not bad just a few things , 1 - radiator ( your one will not work period ) now are they gonna fit a new one and which one , there is a big price diffs between cleaning a rad and supplying a new one . who foots this bill .
2 - fuel pump/s and surge tank
3 - wssr for 1200 ( dont have a clue what this is )
4 - oil cooler for 3850 , crikey wish i could sell coolers for this price ( hayden transcooler 1405 , extreme heavy duty is only about 800 bucks )
5 - flywheel and bellhousing for 11250 , somebody is making a killing , my flys are between 1800 and 2500 depending on the vehicle , i think the bellhousings are going for 2800. but you are going auto so i dont know why its in.
6 - use the original cast iron manifolds , they fit the lux , the front sump also fits with no mods , the oil filter is a z87 and fits no problem.
7 - cooling fans , no mention , and remember the aircon will have to get electric fans if the viscous is not used , pretty much no space to fit the viscous.


i would just ask these questions

1 - supply and fit motor ,gearbox and management system ( 1uz vvti )
2 - fully serviced , plugs , oil , antifreeze , cambelt and tensioners , front and rear crank seal , oil filter , new ancillary drive belt
3 - service alternator and starter motor
4 - check and service injectors
5 - low pressure fuel pump , high pressure fuel pump , surge tank , filters , piping
6 - all mountings , engine and gearbox
7 - strip clean paint electroplate powdercoat
8 - exhaust system ( go stainless you are at the coast )
9 - oil cooler for gearbox with all piping
10 - power steering pipes and bottle , the vvt does not have the canister on the motor
11 - aircon pipes and regass ( while doing it change the receiver drier )
12 - transfer adaptor
13 - propshafts , they will have to be modified
14 - air filter , with the vvt you are going to have a problem with the size and with the routing of the pipe , to overcome the guys move the battery across , but if you have a snorkel it now becomes obsolete .
15 - radiator , if you want the bm 740 rad you have to do the body lift otherwise it wont fit.
16 - cabling , starter / alt etc
17 - fuel pressure regulator ( the vvt does not have one )

and i would push for 1 year guarantee on workmanship.

but that said for a vvt conversion the price is pretty fair , ive seen some for over 100k.

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Mon Dec 31, 2012 9:38 pm

kfxnando wrote:after Mark's comment of carrying a spare ecu when going away. . . .

and me not trying to start anything on here, just wondering

how reliable the spitronics is?

so

so many broken/caput spitronics ecu have the guys heard about?

. :cooldude:
Original vs aftermarket ECU will always be a contentious issue.

Keep in mind that an original 1UZ-FE ECU will now be at least 15 years old (manufactured up to 1997), and they also fail.

Do yourself a favour and do some research om lextreme.com and clublexus.com forums w.r.t. OEM ECU's that pack up, with guys spending a lot of money to try and find the problem.

Do the guys that install OEM ECU's install them as is, i.e. no refurbishment? What about guarantees? What happens if it packs up in the bush, how readily available are those OEM ECU's? Where do one find an ECU on short notice? What about all the sensors that must be 100% for the ECU to function properly?

I agree that the OEM ECU is an extremely refined and optimized piece of equipment, on which billions have been spent with R&D, and it made the Lexus one of the best vehicles produced, which caused the engine to perform optimally under all conditions. Aftermarket ECU will probably not give the same performance, but if and when I go for the conversion, I will go aftermarket, but luckily everybody can decide for himself.

Just my 1c,

Enjoy!!

C
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Tue Jan 01, 2013 5:47 am

A nother big concern that I don't see on 1 of these quotes is the water pump.
They also take a beating while in use. I speak under corection, when you want
To change the water pump you need to take out the motor because of space issuses. :roll:
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Wed Jan 02, 2013 7:37 am

valid point nico , but when stripping you check these things , very seldom that they are an issue , i think out of 100 motors we might have had 1 that was buggered , but you can change it in a lux with out removing the motor.
but they are not priced bad at 1250 bucks.

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Tue Jan 08, 2013 1:53 pm

Mark, thanks for your honest and informed responses and posts.

Having done a fair amount of research on Lexus V8 conversions, I reckon Mark gives a good balanced view and doesn't try and punt his services.

Well done!

Motive
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Tue Jan 08, 2013 10:32 pm

I agree thnx mark and all the guys who gave well informed info
But another question, if I go the auto route will I still have my 4x4?

mark watson
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Wed Jan 09, 2013 1:42 pm

thx guys , pleasure , david yes you still have 4x4 , there is an adaptor between the transfer and gearbox.

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Fri Jan 11, 2013 4:35 pm

Die conversion wat ons gedoen het
Parte R55 000
Arbeid 100 uur @ R300 per uur vir goeie werk

Betaal peanuts en kry ape om die werk te doen

mark watson
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Sat Jan 12, 2013 9:23 am

johan i do agree to a point , its not cheap and ive seen some conversions that guys try do in their garage and its a nightmare but on the other hand i have seen some very good ones , the guys must remember its not the old days where you could whip out your motor overhaul it for a couple of k and voila its done , but we can keep our prices good as we do everything including machining and exhausts inhouse , the only thing done outside is the aircon pipes and gassing , and all my dynos are done at jms motorsport in benoni , steve has got the spits system down to a t.

doppies
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Sat Jan 12, 2013 2:44 pm

Mark Watson, jy wil nie asb jou kontak nr vir my pm nie ? Ek sit in Namibia en die ouens hier het nie die nodige kennis nie. Dankie. Willie

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TheoM
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Thu Jan 24, 2013 9:55 am

kfxnando wrote:after Mark's comment of carrying a spare ecu when going away. . . .

and me not trying to start anything on here, just wondering

how reliable the spitronics is?

so

so many broken/caput spitronics ecu have the guys heard about?

. :cooldude:
Not a single one.I think the point is that the Spitronics ECU is so much cheaper than the OEM ecu(R2000.00 vs R15000.00) that you can realistically afford to keep a spare Spitronics ECU in the spares box when doing long overlanding trips into remote areas.If you only drive around the cities etc then this will not be needed but those of us who use our vehicles in the intended manner, need to take precaution.

2c

Motive, forget about 11 to 13 km/l - the best you will see is 10km/l but that will not be at normal speeds and also not easily with an auto box.If you like manual go with it but remember the LUX manual box is weak compared to a Cruiser box.I have not had any dealings with the other conversionists but I sent my cruiser all the way from Cape Town, to Mark Watson.If I ever need to do another 1UZ conversion albeit into a car/truck/tractor/plane or boat it will only go to Mark.

mark watson
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Thu Jan 24, 2013 6:46 pm

and it was a pleasure to work on olive theo , will see you and mark soon when you fetch shorty , put up a pic of olive

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Hangover
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Fri Jan 25, 2013 8:52 am

TheoM wrote:
kfxnando wrote:after Mark's comment of carrying a spare ecu when going away. . . .

and me not trying to start anything on here, just wondering

how reliable the spitronics is?

so

so many broken/caput spitronics ecu have the guys heard about?

. :cooldude:
Not a single one.I think the point is that the Spitronics ECU is so much cheaper than the OEM ecu(R2000.00 vs R15000.00) that you can realistically afford to keep a spare Spitronics ECU in the spares box when doing long overlanding trips into remote areas.If you only drive around the cities etc then this will not be needed but those of us who use our vehicles in the intended manner, need to take precaution.

2c

Motive, forget about 11 to 13 km/l - the best you will see is 10km/l but that will not be at normal speeds and also not easily with an auto box.If you like manual go with it but remember the LUX manual box is weak compared to a Cruiser box.I have not had any dealings with the other conversionists but I sent my cruiser all the way from Cape Town, to Mark Watson.If I ever need to do another 1UZ conversion albeit into a car/truck/tractor/plane or boat it will only go to Mark.
:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: Agree
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Leone
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Tue Feb 12, 2013 7:20 pm

Hi Guys

I am new to the forum and I currently own 2 Surfs, but 1 vehicle is for spares.

I couldnt find an Intro section, so please forgive me for jumping in.

I am very interested in the conversion, as the V6 warped the heads, but I also have an auto in the spares vehicle.

Just a couple of questions:

Motive, where is this Pat chap based as I have been looking for someone local to do the conversion. Have you decided what you are going to do?

Alien, you mentioned that the transfer case from the 2.4 auto box fits straight onto the Lexus auto, is this correct?

Mark, please can I have your mail address, if I dont find anyone local, I am considering trucking the vehicle inland

Thanks, my apologies again for jumping straight in.

Rich

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Ali3n
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Wed Feb 13, 2013 6:59 am

Leone wrote: Alien, you mentioned that the transfer case from the 2.4 auto box fits straight onto the Lexus auto, is this correct?
You are quit correct but you must keep in mind that the input & output shafts as shorter on the lexus so I hat my old 2.4 auto rebuilt into the lexus casing. Bolted the transfer case on and voila. No propshast issues. Stays the same length. No vibration issues. No nothing. :thumbup:

You say you have 2? Gen 2 or Gen3?
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Leone
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Wed Feb 13, 2013 7:43 am

Thanks Alien

I have the gen 2, as far as I know, the same as yours.

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Ali3n
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Wed Feb 13, 2013 8:31 am

Leone wrote:Thanks Alien

I have the gen 2, as far as I know, the same as yours.
It is soooo damn easy to put the lexus in there. :thumbup:
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Masekind
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Mon Jul 22, 2013 7:57 am

Wat sal julle se sal die beste wees om in n V6 se plek te sit (2005 1GR)
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Hoppy
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Mon Jul 22, 2013 8:00 am

n 1GR
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Mars
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Thu Jul 25, 2013 7:51 am

Klink dalk nou vir jou snaaks maar Hoppy is reg. Die bakkie is ontwerp met daardie enjin dus geen conversion probleme nie en jy het basies dieselfde uitsette, indien nie beter nie, as die V8s. Is jou enjin moeg of jeuk dit net?

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Masekind
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Thu Jul 25, 2013 8:02 am

Ja hy is op lol , ek sal like om weer n V6 in tesit baie minder mods. Het ook gedink dat ek dalk iets kry met beter branstof verbruik oor die lang termyn maar weet nie wat is die V8 het gehoor is rondom 8km/l. Weet regtag nie wat gaan die beste wees op die lang termyn nie :blackeye: Ek sal julle hulp baie wardeer
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rovcra
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Mon May 07, 2018 9:30 am

Masekind wrote:Ja hy is op lol , ek sal like om weer n V6 in tesit baie minder mods. Het ook gedink dat ek dalk iets kry met beter branstof verbruik oor die lang termyn maar weet nie wat is die V8 het gehoor is rondom 8km/l. Weet regtag nie wat gaan die beste wees op die lang termyn nie :blackeye: Ek sal julle hulp baie wardeer
Hi Guys, New to the forum but have a distraught Lexus conversion, my downshift from 2nd to 1st is very rough, I've been told it is not coming out of lock up mode that's why it's hard changing to first from second, has anybody has this issue and how do you fix it. Thanks

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LouisZ
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Tue May 08, 2018 8:12 pm

Carlo if its an Auto try replacing the Auto Transmission oil 1st.

rovcra
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Tue May 08, 2018 8:36 pm

I have already, no change. Tried a different gearbox, ecu and wiring loom, no change. Tomorrow we are looking at the throttle position and also the speed that the vehicle is actually doing and what the ecu thinks it doing......


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