Hilux 4x4 Forum

TheoM wrote:Looks great !

Where do you get vacuum from for the FPR guage ?

Hi Theo. Thanks

I have not connected the vacuum to the fuel pressure regulator yet. I was just gonna link it to the intake manifold. Or should it be connected some where else?

Thanks Tiaan, Shortened the propshaft last night and sent for balancing this morning. Cant wait to take it for a spin.

Workhorse wrote:I have not connected the vacuum to the fuel pressure regulator yet. I was just gonna link it to the intake manifold. Or should it be connected some where else?

Yes, connect it to the small blanked off pipe above the intake - the one with the black rubber cap which is closest to that coolant bleed screw.

Thanks Theo, that's exactly where I was thinking. Other thing is I seem to have the regulator hooked up incorrectly or I should say the place that sold me the FPR gave me wrong info. I have the fuel supply from pump at the bottom of the FPR and supply to fuel rail from the side of the FPR. Seems to me that it should be the other way round supply from side and feed to rail from bottom. Other thing is I don't seem to get my tacho to work. I am running OEM and from that there is a tacho output but seems to be non compatible with me tacho on my van. I get a positive signal from the OEM. Any ideas as to how to solve this problem.

Cheers Donovan

Most/all FPRs that I have seen, had their returns to the tank/surge tank at the bottom and the inlet on the side but I suppose yours could be different - the manual should be very clear on that so check your manual first ?

As far as the tacho is concerned, I suspect it relates to the 4 cyl signal vs new 8 cyl signal - V8 Solid should be able to help with that.I know the Spits guys have a way to do it but I am not sure about the OEM setup.Also try speaking to Mark Watson - Instrumentation is actually his thing!

TheoM wrote:Most/all FPRs that I have seen, had their returns to the tank/surge tank at the bottom and the inlet on the side but I suppose yours could be different - the manual should be very clear on that so check your manual first ?

You are correct in saying return at the bottom and inlet on the side, I have my Rotary also connected up like this. But when I got this one they told me it should be connected other way round. Not gonna mention names. I changed it last night. Manual if only I got one with it. That was the first thing I asked for when I opened the box and I was told its straight forward you don't need a manual.

As far as the tacho is concerned, I suspect it relates to the 4 cyl signal vs new 8 cyl signal - V8 Solid should be able to help with that.I know the Spits guys have a way to do it but I am not sure about the OEM setup.Also try speaking to Mark Watson - Instrumentation is actually his thing!

Apparently the Lexus OEM reads only one bank so effectively its like a 4cyl signal. Spoke with Derrick from V8 solid it seems that the 4y tacho is not gonna pick up the signal from the OEM. I will chat with Mark Watson.

Workhorse wrote:

TheoM wrote:Most/all FPRs that I have seen, had their returns to the tank/surge tank at the bottom and the inlet on the side but I suppose yours could be different - the manual should be very clear on that so check your manual first ?

You are correct in saying return at the bottom and inlet on the side, I have my Rotary also connected up like this. But when I got this one they told me it should be connected other way round. Not gonna mention names. I changed it last night. Manual if only I got one with it. That was the first thing I asked for when I opened the box and I was told its straight forward you don't need a manual.

As far as the tacho is concerned, I suspect it relates to the 4 cyl signal vs new 8 cyl signal - V8 Solid should be able to help with that.I know the Spits guys have a way to do it but I am not sure about the OEM setup.Also try speaking to Mark Watson - Instrumentation is actually his thing!

Apparently the Lexus OEM reads only one bank so effectively its like a 4cyl signal. Spoke with Derrick from V8 solid it seems that the 4y tacho is not gonna pick up the signal from the OEM. I will chat with Mark Watson.

The simple answer to this is to get an aftermarket dash which has a configurable taco, speedo etc etc etc. Its what we normally do when faced with unsupported signalling. The alternative is a very expensive "signal converter" ($900 last check). We have fitted 4 of these dash pods and in all cases they are great. They are a little "japcrap" in their presentation, but do a great job. They are also very useful when you change tyre sizes and want a speed reading that is accurate.

Cheers
Nick

Workhorse wrote:..But when I got this one they told me it should be connected other way round. .

Looking at the pic of your FPR it looks like the normal vertical spring and diaphragm type setup ie spring at the top where the vacuum inlet is with the diaphragm in centre and return at bottom .It does not look like a horizontally mounted spring etc ..

BTW all my 19voertsek OEM cruiser guages work perfectly with the Spitronics and VVTi motor

Ok so had the exhaust done Saturday. Fitted the props and took it for a spin. OMG is all I can say. The power, the sound its just absolutely freakin awesome. The only issue I have is on pull away I have a shudder. Think its coming from the center bearing on the prop. Going to mount the Gopro later and see what's happening. Should I have just made up a single prop or stick with the original setup? Otherwise everything is perfect. Runs smooth and effortless.

Looking at the pic of your FPR it looks like the normal vertical spring and diaphragm type setup ie spring at the top where the vacuum inlet is with the diaphragm in centre and return at bottom .It does not look like a horizontally mounted spring etc ..

BTW all my 19voertsek OEM cruiser guages work perfectly with the Spitronics and VVTi motor [/quote]
You 100% correct Theo.
Connected the FPR the same way as I did my rotary and problem solved. Starts perfect now.

Hi Guys. glad I found some place to get more info on these conversions. I fitted my Hardbody Kingcab with the VVT-I and so far everything is fairly well. I am happy with the much better performance than the old 3.3 V6, though there was nothing wrong with it and I sold it easily. I don't know if anyone here can answer my query as everyone seems to only do the Toyota conversion, but here goes;

1. I am struggling to connect the reverse lights wire, where does it go?

2. On cold startup, my vehicle idles, but doesn't want to move. it is as if something is telling the motor to just idle up to a certain point and then it goes. it goes into reverse and does the reverse thing, but forward, it doesn't go. it feels like the engine is not ready yet to move and something is telling it to keep idling until temperature or whatever is at it's correct setting for driving. Has anyone here experienced the same thing? The guys at Lextreme where I bought the unit, said it may be fuel pressure which is to low, or the crank censor might be wet. I have not checked anything yet. but if fuel pressure is to low, it means I have to switch the fuel pump with something stronger...what can you guys suggest.

3. can someone refer me to anyone who can calibrate my speedo and revcounter as here in Bloemfontein, it is very expensive and scarse.

thank you guys
regards

Are you running the Lexus auto box ?

M@R10 wrote:.. it goes into reverse and does the reverse thing, but forward, it doesn't go. it feels like the engine is not ready yet to move and something is telling it to keep idling until temperature or whatever is at it's correct setting for driving. ................... The guys at Lextreme where I bought the unit, said it may be fuel pressure which is to low, or the crank censor might be wet. ....

Then why is the fuel pressure/crank sensor not a problem when cold reversing but only when in cold drive ?

Hi TheoM.
Yes I have the auto box with the original ecu.

Hi All,

Just an update. since my conversion I have done just over 3500 kilos with my lux and all is working great. I had one small issue with spline linking lexus box to Sfa transfer developed play on the spline. Found out afterwards that the engineering company that made the splines for me never hardened them. Anyway replaced the spline had it hardened and all is good. With nice town driving I manage to obtain 8 to 8.3 kilos per lt. And on a trip to montagu and back I got 9 per lt. Speedo reads about 5km over to GPS.

The only other thing I can say is awesome. The five speed auto box works really well. Not sure what ratio diff I have but at 100kmh I sit on 2500rpm.

Cheers

Workhorse wrote:Hi All,

The only other thing I can say is awesome. The five speed auto box works really well. Not sure whatratio diff I have but at 100kmh I sit on 2500rpm.

Cheers

Just a quick question, if anyone with some expert advice can help. So my 3.0 D4d with auto box sits at 160Km/h at 3000 RPM, chances are it's not a good idea to keep the D4d box if I were to swop out the D4d motor for a Lexus?

Hi,I am just about to finish my project on converting my 99 hilux 2.7 with a lexus 1uz vvti. running the manual setup but with standards oem. Can someone tell me if all the engine functions and especially the air intake control valve and valve adjustment timing will still work when the computer think it is in park??

Evening Gents.

Just over two years running and she still running sweet as ever. No issues what so ever. Starts and runs like a dream. Done over 35000kilos since conversion. Average 8.5 around town and on open road when not towing average 10.3. Tows the caravan and boat like a dream.

Good to hear.
Is that km/l or l/100 km?

pietpetoors wrote: ↑Mon Feb 27, 2017 5:40 pm Good to hear.
Is that km/l or l/100 km?

km/l is pretty impressive already, can't believe that it would be l/100km?? Really got me thinking to convert as well

Hi,

Yes sorry its KM/L.

Whats really nice about the conversion is the fact that if i stood idling next to you, you would never guess she's fitted with vvti lexus V8.

Another thing is the Auto 5 speed is really an awesome box. You dont feel the gear changes. Its so smooth. And other fancy features that Derrick included was first gear lock and towing feature wired via switch on shifter alows the box to only change up to 4 while towing.

Many skepticism about these conversions i was one of them three years ago. But now i wish i had done it many years ago. If done properly then its a really amazing vehicle to drive around.

And Honestly the prewired units to me is really the way to go. Absolutely no issues no tuning issues. An really easy for the DIY guy.

I did my conversion in my garage over 8 weeks up and running sent for exhaust and job complete and in that period did a 40mm body lift aswell.

Honestly if you considering such a conversion go the prewired units from Derrick at V8solid.

Cheers

Pic that i took the weekend

Awesome write up!!

Is there any noticeable power increase to your old motor?


Rich

Well i went from the 2.2 4y to the 3uz vvti. So do the math. Lol

The power is great but most of all the torque the motor produces is brillant.

You just feather the pedal sit back and enjoy. And when you want to show off a little you just bury the loud pedal and enjoy.

Looks awesome man!