SFA Hilux Rebuild/3UZ Lexus Conversion

Post questions, advice and pictures of Engine conversions here
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Reinart21
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Real Name: Reinart

Mon Jun 01, 2015 3:04 pm

So this has been a long time coming. I finally got the chance of doing some real work on my own SFA.

About 3 weeks ago I could go up to Nam to buy and fetch this beaut...

Due to some lucky unforeseen circumstances, I could get an 1997 model 22R D/C for a bargain price. It was used as a research vehicle for some time, then as a holiday fishing vehicle at the coast for the last 3 years.

Now mechanically the bakkie is sound, only minor problem is the 5th gear syncros.

Has a couple of dings and whoever did the spray work I feel like kicking on the shin.

But this SFA is special, it is mine :dance1: :dance1: :dance1:

So I would like some help/recommendations on how to proceed, what to look at. Basically restoring and doing a couple of mods.

Some Pic's

Dec/Jan doing some fishing at Henties. The SFA belonged to my Father in law, and I convinced him to sell it for a project.
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The morning of driving it back from their place in Nam, was bright and early on the road to be back in Mpumalanga by night.
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Last edited by Reinart21 on Tue Sep 29, 2015 2:48 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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mcw
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Mon Jun 01, 2015 3:26 pm

Hi Reinart

somewhere on the forum is a thread about rust under the front mudguards on SFA ,and yours having spent a long time at the coast in Walvisbay ,this would be the first thing i would check


Martin

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Reinart21
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Real Name: Reinart

Mon Jun 01, 2015 3:40 pm

As on the forum, I turned my attention to RUST.

I don't know how but again I got lucky, I'll post some more pictures with the front fenders off, but the overall condition looks very good, obviously there are some surface rust, but I have already started get rid of that. The pictures now only show as we were stripping, turns out half the sand on the beach came with, so after a good wash it looks a bit better :thumbup:

Load bin off. Was a bit of a mission, the bakkie has an extra long range tank S/S not sure how much it can hold, at 160l I asked the pump guy to stop :alvarin: :alvarin: . That was after we filled up the stock tank. So the load bin is exceptionally heavy.
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Starting stripping the front end, the stock bumper (black) was rusted pretty bad, so that will need replacing, but besides that, things still look pretty good.
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After taking off the Cab, it made it a lot easier to assess the whole situation. There is a lot of work to be done, and I will need some advice. At the moment, getting rid of surface rust is not to difficult. Wire brush etc etc. But I'm looking to use NS1 and NS4 for rust convert and priming, and then either stone chip or if someone has a better recommendation, this is for the chassis and some components on the under carriage...
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Now there is a bit of an issue, before I can apply the Converter and Primer, over the years, between the grease/oil/petrol/sand/salt water, a nice mixture of "gemors" is all over the chassis and everywhere else. It'll need a good clean with strong soap degreasor is there an easier way than with soap and a lappie? I have not stripped the chassis bare, and would try to avoid if possible, as there are a lot of small pipes from fuel, braking and power steering system that i would rather not rip out and then try to re-install, else if some can suggest an alternative or plan of actions?? :subscribed: :subscribed:
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Reinart21
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Real Name: Reinart

Mon Jun 01, 2015 3:42 pm

mcw wrote:Hi Reinart

somewhere on the forum is a thread about rust under the front mudguards on SFA ,and yours having spent a long time at the coast in Walvisbay ,this would be the first thing i would check


Martin
Thanks Martin, you replied faster than I could get the next post out on that exact topic!! :thumbup: :thumbup:

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Mon Jun 01, 2015 3:50 pm

Nope ...Dirt Nurse or Blixem...then apply with a spray bottle and power wash after wards.
After that the lappie for stubborn stains :D:

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Reinart21
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Real Name: Reinart

Wed Jun 03, 2015 1:27 pm

So I got a bit of work done, just a minor update.

The fuel tank was mostly covered in surface rust, especially the top part under the cab.

Between getting rid of the rust and applying NS1 Rust converter it came out nicely, just a heads up, NS4 for prime and then I think Duram stone chip for a final coat should keep it rust free for another 15 or so years :beg: :beg:
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This pic only shows the NS1 Rust convert, still need to do the other 2 coats.

If anybody can tell me, there was supposedly a change in fuel tank size after 95 models I think, previous models came with a 65l tank and later models with a 80l tank. Can anyone confirm?

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Wed Jun 03, 2015 1:51 pm

Daai lyk soos 'n baie netjiese custom tank. 80~100L. Maar ek kan ook heeltemal verkeerd wees. Dit lyk net nie OEM nie...

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Wed Jun 03, 2015 1:54 pm

Die ou standaard tank was 65 liter.Die heel later modelle se tanks was groter.Ek praat onder korreksie maar ek dink hulle was 80 liter
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Wed Jun 03, 2015 2:27 pm

It is an OEM tank, like Dawie said the later models came out with these tanks. IIRC they are about 90 lit.
When your road comes to an end ...... you need a HILUX!.

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Life is like a jar of Jalapeño peppers ... what you do today, might burn your ass tomorrow.

Don't take life too seriously ..... no-one gets out alive.
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Reinart21
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Real Name: Reinart

Thu Aug 20, 2015 2:11 pm

Sorry for the wait, time is seriously becoming a scarce commodity.

So received a belated birthday present to myself :lol: :lol:

ECU : LINK Fury G4+
Loom Harness, looking forward to the wiring :shock:
Igniters: 2x Twin Channel Link Igniters
Link Map Sensor 5 bar
Link Wideband o2 Sensor
20150819_165724a.jpg
This is for the plans for a new engine going into the old Faithfull, taking no shortcuts as I want it to still be as reliable as possible.

Got all the body work back after some TLC and respray etc, kept to the same colour.
20150813_172844_resizeda.jpg
Now I'm waiting for some more shiny new bits... (Walbro 255l/m external fuel pump and an AEM fuel Regulater with a 1:1 rising rate.)

But, and here I need you guys help, I have received a 50mm aluminum body lift spacer set. I need to install those next right after final coat on the chassis.

My question is, what are the High Tensile Bolt lengths or dimensions needed to do the body lift. I know someone has posted it before, took me hours and I could not find it since. Help :surrender: :surrender:

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Reinart21
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Real Name: Reinart

Thu Aug 20, 2015 2:22 pm

Just some more info/pictures. Looks like I got a bit done since last updating the posts.
IMG-20150510-WA0002a.jpg
Taking out the motor.
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Body off, then removed all the fuel lines etc for wire brush and sand blast.
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Chassis blasted and NS1 rust convert where needed, NS4 primed, didn't realize it was grey :slap:

Then 3 coats of stone chip (black).

Like I said, next step is the get the cab fitted with the spacers, need those bolts :surrender:

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Sun Aug 23, 2015 7:49 am

Just add 50mm to the length of the old bolts to accommodate the spacers, less the size of the old spacers, then you have our length for new bolts. I'm guessing about 90 - 100mm. :think:
When your road comes to an end ...... you need a HILUX!.

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Life is like a jar of Jalapeño peppers ... what you do today, might burn your ass tomorrow.

Don't take life too seriously ..... no-one gets out alive.
It's not about waiting for storms to pass. It's about learning to dance in the rain.
And be yourself ..... everyone else is taken!

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Reinart21
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Real Name: Reinart

Mon Aug 24, 2015 10:14 am

Am I understanding you correct Andy, the existing rubbers between the chassis and body are removed and only the aluminum spacers are inserted?

I was under the impressions they are stacked?

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Mon Aug 24, 2015 11:21 am

No, you will still need rubber cushions between the spacers and the body. If the old ones are still good you could re-use them I suppose, but it would be better to replace while you're there. They're a mission to replace at a later stage.

Now I'm wondering about the reason for the spacers? Personally I wouldn't do it unless it's to help accommodate 33" tyres or a motor conversion that needs the extra bonnet height. Otherwise you will be needlessly raising the COG without any benefit.
When your road comes to an end ...... you need a HILUX!.

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Life is like a jar of Jalapeño peppers ... what you do today, might burn your ass tomorrow.

Don't take life too seriously ..... no-one gets out alive.
It's not about waiting for storms to pass. It's about learning to dance in the rain.
And be yourself ..... everyone else is taken!

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Reinart21
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Real Name: Reinart

Mon Aug 24, 2015 3:59 pm

You caught me out...

33"'s and accommodating a V8, reason for the ECU and bits I bought...

They are still in good condition, the rubbers I mean, but if you recommend replacing I could not argue with that. Go to Toyota or look somewhere else?

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Real Name: Andy

Tue Aug 25, 2015 2:13 am

I don't think it matters too much as long as they are for body mounting (suitable density) and that they fit. Toyota may be expensive, but you never know .... ask them for availability and a price and then compare with your other local spares outlets.
When your road comes to an end ...... you need a HILUX!.

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Life is like a jar of Jalapeño peppers ... what you do today, might burn your ass tomorrow.

Don't take life too seriously ..... no-one gets out alive.
It's not about waiting for storms to pass. It's about learning to dance in the rain.
And be yourself ..... everyone else is taken!

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Reinart21
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Real Name: Reinart

Tue Aug 25, 2015 11:19 am

For a second there I thought you were talking about the spacers. The spacer set I got from Piet and 4x4Direct, so there shouldn't be any quality issues there. I understand what your saying about the rubbers, but surprisingly enough the rubbers are still in very good condition, no visible perishing or defects. But I'll compare prices and see what I can come up with.

What has me a bit concerned now, hopefully you can give some advice, the doors were taken off for body work and respray, but the hardboard covered with materiel on the inside of the doors were removed. They have clips that keep the boards to the doors. Now the hardboard just crumbled and the clips just pulled out, so I need to replace those, and the clips I think. Any chance you could get them off a shelf? Or is it measure and fab time?

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Tue Aug 25, 2015 1:32 pm

Those clips you can buy from spares places but you'll never get them to work quite as well as the OEM ones. My advice would be to use Rivnuts in the holes and use machine screws to hold the panels on.
Happy trails
Nic

SFA '97 DC affirmatively shopped
SFA '87 DC "Rooies"

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Reinart21
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Real Name: Reinart

Tue Aug 25, 2015 3:23 pm

What about the panels themselves, they will also need replacing...

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Thu Aug 27, 2015 8:55 am

Replace with alu sheet. Just put the old panel on it and trace around
Happy trails
Nic

SFA '97 DC affirmatively shopped
SFA '87 DC "Rooies"

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JohanW
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Thu Aug 27, 2015 11:12 am

niclemaitre wrote:Replace with alu sheet. Just put the old panel on it and trace around
You can even have this alu sheet covered in vinyl. Its also a good idea to add some insulation/sound proofing to the back of the panels.

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Reinart21
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Real Name: Reinart

Thu Aug 27, 2015 2:46 pm

JohanW wrote:
niclemaitre wrote:Replace with alu sheet. Just put the old panel on it and trace around
You can even have this alu sheet covered in vinyl. Its also a good idea to add some insulation/sound proofing to the back of the panels.
For the sound proofing, anything like Dynamat?

I think the Alu sheet covered in vinyl sounds like the way to go. Relative easy to mark out and cut to size. Would you recommend the vinyl part as DIY or not?

Now I remember why I post here :dance1: :dance1:

Thanks Guys

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JohanW
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Thu Aug 27, 2015 2:52 pm

Dynamat? Waaaay too expensive. 1.2mm pp foam or even isotherm like the use in the roof.

There are lots of professional companies that do reupholstering which do a great job for less than you would be able to do it yourself for.

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Thu Aug 27, 2015 4:10 pm

Happy trails
Nic

SFA '97 DC affirmatively shopped
SFA '87 DC "Rooies"

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Reinart21
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Real Name: Reinart

Fri Aug 28, 2015 8:22 am

I have a quick question regarding the body lift. It's only 2"/50mm but, I already have "unknown" amount of suspension lift form OME suspension. I want to reduce body roll and am considering Air bags/helpers. Being an SFA with leafs front and rear, I want to install the air helpers also front and rear.

Good idea? What/where/who would you guys recommend?

I see 4x4direct has a set/of 2 for the rear for +-5K, was hoping to do all round for that amount.

Would Mikem assist?

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Fri Aug 28, 2015 11:03 am

Talk directly to the guys at airspring supply company. I have their bags in the rear. Best thing since sliced bread. And my chassis is still straight. The stories about them bending chassis are usually the first thing mentioned. With heavy overloading you can bend anything. The main benefit if airbags is the ability to adjust them to your varying load. But since the load on the front springs don't really vary at all it would be redundant installing bags in the front. Unless you use really thin leaf springs that just centre the axle and use the bags as the primary load carrying spring ala disco.

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Real Name: Reinart

Sat Aug 29, 2015 10:01 am

Call me crazy, but the reason I want to add the air suspension in the front as well, I know of some guys who have done this, and with the SFA it surely is easy with the leaf packs, but I want to negate some body roll... Will it help?

In the rear I am going to carry some load, Cattle rails, major long range tank that probably weighs as much as the load bin, if not more. Hy is moer swaar, battery and then some. Like you said, the front is not going to vary much, but like I said, want a bit less body roll.

Another question I have of the air suspension, I don't do extreme off-road tracks, but with regards to wheel articulation, and the OME suspension, will full extension pose danger to the air bags?

I got the remaining bolts at Fastner and Fluid so the Cab is going on again this weekend! Some progress.

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Real Name: Reinart

Mon Aug 31, 2015 10:00 am

Another Milestone achieved this weekend, feeling a bit more positive about the project after we got some progress done...

Started off doing the final stone chip coat on the chassis, came out a nice black. After blasting the brake lines clean and re-installing them we decided to fit the cab back onto the chassis with the 2"(50mm) body lift.

I'm still waiting for the Walbro inline fuel pump to fit then we will make up the fuel lines and if possible use the existing one as return. But with the body lift it is quite a bit easier to work in that area.

Some Pichas! It was late night when we finished so the photos aren't so great.
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Now I need to look up the topic of all the components that need to be lengthened/shortened due to the lift. :siffler:

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Reinart21
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Real Name: Reinart

Sun Sep 06, 2015 10:54 am

Small update.

Finally got round to select and take delivery of the new power plant. 3Uz :dance1: :dance1:

Would like to do a dummy fit, or test fit, but because of work, this is not going to happen very soon.
IMG-20150905-WA0001a.jpg
IMG-20150905-WA0003a.jpg
IMG-20150905-WA0005a.jpg

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Reinart21
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Real Name: Reinart

Sun Sep 06, 2015 1:23 pm

I want to get new wheels and tires for this SFA. I'm hoping for 33"s, the rims I would like to have with a bit more off set so the wheels are ever so slightly more outward. Not as outward as using wheel spaces, I'm not going to try for that look, more in the sense of having the tire a bit more away from the chassis than the current wheels on. Just for clearance sake and hopefully a bit more stable on the road. Trying to avoid the whole wheel spacer thing here.

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Sun Sep 06, 2015 4:29 pm

Also remember to move the front diff forward by 35 ~ 40mm to acommodate the 33" wheels. Otherwise they are guarenteed to rub.
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Reinart21
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Real Name: Reinart

Mon Sep 07, 2015 6:24 am

Who to recommend for the adapter between the auto box and the transfer case?

Any suggestions, I need it solid, these motors to have a lot of torque... :think: :think:

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Reinart21
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Real Name: Reinart

Tue Sep 15, 2015 9:48 am

May have hit a snag.

I took the gearbox and T/C to the guys it PTA to do the adapter. He showed me one, pretty impressive stuff. Definitely will be able to handle the power, the T/C must just hold up.

Now the guy had an exact shape and model lux that he is busy with, building a 1uz over. Basically same engine, but what bothered me was the shifter for the autobox. Damn ugly and not what I had in mind. Seems the problem is such.
shifter1.JPG
OEM shifter on the earlier LS430 without the tripronic feature.
Lexus-V8-Shifter-5-310x310.jpg
Lexus-V8-Shifter-5-310x310.jpg (24.26 KiB) Viewed 1914 times
This is the type of shifters that you mostly see on these conversions here in good o'll SA, in line 6 Position shifter. Basically just controls the mechanical selector on the gearbox, but with no connection to the transmission control unit. This is the case looks like on the OEM Ecu conversions and the stand alone conversions. All using the same inline shifter.


Or maybe I just have not seen enough of them.

So spoke to a couple of providers of TCU/TMU's and basically you can set up different profiles of shifting the same as what the OEM models had, on the LS430 there is 3, Power, Normal and Snow.

But in two of the cases you can set up a profile that will allow you to control the Up/Down shift using buttons, basically trip-tronic on an auto trans with torque lock up in 3rd, 4th and OD.

R3600 for the unit with custom loom for this exact gearbox, A650 and the 2 shift buttons etc. BUT no shifter.

When I asked the guy on which shifters do these TCU's work or compatible with his response was, should be any of them that will work the mechanical selector on the gearbox correctly. Leaving me to believe that the shifter is not directly/electronically connected to the TCU. He said the shifting profiles/software is set up on the TCU and the one you select will let the gearbox behave accordingly.

Really hoping the triptronic part works out, I know it's still gona slip in 1st and 2nd only form 3rd onward can you lock up the T/C the guy says.

So, now need to look for a shifter, basically the importers and start planning on fabricating a console, and definitely getting it covered with leather same as the roof console. Hopefully it'll turn out anything but a horrible c#ck up :crazy: :crazy: :lmao: :lmao:

Thoughts welcome gents, feel free to pitch in. :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

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Agteros
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Tue Sep 15, 2015 5:23 pm

Reinart - that 3UZ looks like a serious piece of iron..... :clap:
2012 FJ Sport Cruiser
1986 Hilux DC 4x4

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Tue Sep 15, 2015 9:25 pm

Just found this thread, basically busy with the exact same :thumbup: i will be going the 1uz vvti route with auto box.

Yours looking good! Watching and learning as you are a bit ahead of me.

Who did you use for the t/box adaptor?
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Reinart21
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Real Name: Reinart

Wed Sep 16, 2015 11:06 am

Chris Mod in PTA north I think. Well he is somewhere in PTA. Dropped it off over the last weekend, had a look through his workshop, he is basically finished with an exact project. SFA, 22r out and 1uz vvti in.

His adapters look solid and really not complex, just less stuff that can break.

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Reinart21
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Wed Sep 16, 2015 11:10 am

Regarding the ECU, this has been covered many times over so I think it's just a personal matter of preference, I'm using a Link Extreme G4 on the 3uz, not going to hassle with tuning as I will be getting a map of the same model ecu also running a 3uz basically the exact setup. I know all engines are different, luckily the ECU can log and then from those files just do fine tuning.

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Real Name: Reinart

Wed Sep 16, 2015 11:15 am

Agteros wrote:Reinart - that 3UZ looks like a serious piece of iron..... :clap:
Hugo daai serious stukkie yster is onmenslik swaar...

Wie okal gesê het hy is bietjie ligter as die 22r kan maar gaan vlieg.

Engine lifter/Olifantjie was by n pel, moes die engine saam ratkas en olies als aan een met die hand aflaai. 5 mane met af rue was ons gewees. :slap: :slap:

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Reinart21
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Real Name: Reinart

Wed Sep 16, 2015 11:29 am

FYI the 3uz at 1800 rpm makes the same amount of torque a 3.0 D4d makes at peak and between 2000 - 3200 rpm makes within 25Nm of what the 5.9 hemi does...

Thinking of swapping out the diffs for a set of D4d's...

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Real Name: Reinart

Tue Sep 29, 2015 2:50 pm

Small update...
Mostly Pics...
Will be doing a oil pressure test and cylinder compression test tonight.
Then all the new parts will be going onto the motor and then the mock up can be done for the engine mounts.

So focus point for the next couple of days will be wiring up the harness to the Link Loom (damn me) and then need to install:
-Fuel pump
-Regulator
-Fuel Lines
-Get the engine mounts fabricated so I can see how much space I have for the radiator and fans.
-Radiator

Then I need to get pipes made up for the aircon pump/condensor, oil cooler for auto trans and power steering pump to the unit.

Feels like progress, albeit it very slow... :siffler: :siffler:
20150927_152511a.jpg
20150927_152524a.jpg
20150927_150053a.jpg
IMG-20150927-WA0007a.jpg
IMG-20150927-WA0009a.jpg

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Thomo82
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Wed Oct 21, 2015 2:48 pm

Hey Reinart,

Looks like you are making good progress. I have recently picked up a 3UZ that I will be putting into a SWB70 Landcruiser so will be following your progress closely.

Why did you choose to go with the Link G4+ Fury as opposed to sticking with the stock ECU? I am trying to figure out which route to go so interested to know why you went that route.

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Real Name: Reinart

Fri Oct 23, 2015 8:45 am

Thomo82 wrote:Hey Reinart,

Looks like you are making good progress. I have recently picked up a 3UZ that I will be putting into a SWB70 Landcruiser so will be following your progress closely.

Why did you choose to go with the Link G4+ Fury as opposed to sticking with the stock ECU? I am trying to figure out which route to go so interested to know why you went that route.
Slight change actually, the G4+ Fury is manufactured to run a 6 Cylinder, but with 2 extra injector drivers making it usable in a 8 cylinder full sequential injection, however it only has 6 ignition drivers so I would have to run wasted spark, not going to happen.

So ended up with a Link G4 Extreme which is their top range Ecu, has 8 Injection and 8 Ignition drivers, so sequential on injection and spark, they are expensive however, getting one here and setup will set you back close to 30k (Wide-band O2 sensors and MAP sensors included)

Initially decided to go aftermarket engine management because I wanted a First Gen Square Rail 1uz with the beefy rods, low compression and just turbo it. But on account of the tuner he was leaning towards the newer motors, which after taking a drive with his 3uz Hilux Vigo using the exact same Link G4 ECU, manual however, I'm glad I decided on this ECU rather than the OEM management, definitely makes a lot more power, and I doubt you'd be able to tell it's not OEM management, it's very smooth, shifts, low en torque. No local ECU comes close with Knock Control, Flat shift function, runs the vvti like if not better than OEM, and LOW END TORQUE like you won't believe.

Most people knock our Jap V8's with it's multi-port multi-valve, won't make torque you have to wring it's neck to get any power out of it, where as the Ford or Chev basically American V8's are not and make extreme torque down low, well let's just say the Japs did something right with the 3u because it packs a real punch on low end for a 4.3 l. (Rant over) :surrender:

I won't recommend going aftermarket if you don't have confidence in your ECU AND TUNER. The guys with the thick glasses do know their story. But for my application I don't want the OEM setup. Personal choice. Plus, so much less sensors and wires and hassles if something is not connected, plus base maps and error codes via OBD etc etc. Again, personal choice. Not knocking anyone.

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Fri Oct 23, 2015 8:49 am

Can we get a MOD to move this thread to the engine conversions forum?
Or can I do it myself? Tried but don't see where to.

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Real Name: Reinart

Fri Oct 23, 2015 9:43 am

So the motor is in for a mock up and to get the engine mounts made up.
IMG-20151018-WA0007a.jpg
I think there is not going to be enough space for the Thicker 36mm core KZTE radiator and a Proper SPAL or FAL electric fan. Engine has to move further back.
IMG-20151018-WA0004a.jpg
Checking clearences.
IMG-20151018-WA0009a.jpg
Checking clearences.
Now, regarding the height of the engine, on the front where the power steering box sits, the engine's power steering pump it clashing with it, unless I lift the motor a bit. Have done the 50mm body lift, so not too much of an issue, would like to know from the guys who have done this conversion what to look out for.

Then, getting the motor aligned and level, method to use?
I stripped the chassis, cab, engine bay clean to get everything overhauled body wise etc. Should I reassemble everything and lastly drop in the motor? Or get the motor in and then just mod everything that clashes afterwards?

I want to get the motor aligned properly, so I can get engine mounts measured and made up. :frustrated:

Some wise words from the older folk :siffler: :subscribed: :subscribed: :subscribed:

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Fri Oct 23, 2015 1:10 pm

I am in the EXACT same position at the moment.

Did you remove the manifolds?

We are at the stage of "little bit up, little bit down, little bit forward little bit back"
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Real Name: Reinart

Fri Oct 23, 2015 3:21 pm

Knuppel wrote:I am in the EXACT same position at the moment.

Did you remove the manifolds?

We are at the stage of "little bit up, little bit down, little bit forward little bit back"
Please finish up with that so you can instruct me what to do! :lmao: :lmao: With Peechas! :beg: :beg:

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Real Name: Reinart

Fri Oct 23, 2015 3:22 pm

Yeah, took of the manifolds, but in hind sight maybe that was a bad idea. now if everything fits and mounts made up, install the mani's and then something doesnt fit right :surrender: :surrender:

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Fri Oct 23, 2015 3:26 pm

I can't get the motor to fit with the stock manifolds on! They hang up on the chassis and then my motor still has to drop.
:shock2: It bloody well just wont go :twisted:

Now trying to find a different one or make my own.
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Real Name: Reinart

Fri Oct 23, 2015 3:31 pm

Another thing, how the hell is everything supposed to fit in that small engine bay, The KZTE rad is 60mm, the electric fan close to 90mm(Motor part quite thick) with the engine you have 100-110mm max. HELP!!! Lol

One option is to go for the Behr D4d rad, got a 17mm core, very thin, but is it going to cool enough.

Possible to fit everything without cutting??.... Really don't want to go that route unless absolutely necessary.

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Fri Oct 23, 2015 4:54 pm

I have 170mm from the front of the Visco drive to the cross member, So have to fit a Visco and coupling into 100mm and then still have 25mm clearance between fan and radiator!

A mechanically driven fan it WILL be, now to find the right visco and fan blades.
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Sat Oct 24, 2015 9:05 am

Reinart21 wrote: ...Initially decided to go aftermarket engine management because I wanted a First Gen Square Rail 1uz with the beefy rods, low compression and just turbo it. But on account of the tuner he was leaning towards the newer motors, which after taking a drive with his 3uz Hilux Vigo using the exact same Link G4 ECU, manual however, I'm glad I decided on this ECU rather than the OEM management, definitely makes a lot more power, and I doubt you'd be able to tell it's not OEM management, it's very smooth, shifts, low en torque. No local ECU comes close with Knock Control, Flat shift function, runs the vvti like if not better than OEM, and LOW END TORQUE like you won't believe.

I won't recommend going aftermarket if you don't have confidence in your ECU AND TUNER. The guys with the thick glasses do know their story. But for my application I don't want the OEM setup. Personal choice. Plus, so much less sensors and wires and hassles if something is not connected, plus base maps and error codes via OBD etc etc. Again, personal choice. Not knocking anyone.
Thanks for the response. I have been doing a fair bit of research on the link G4+ units and they do look impressive. I also like the idea of fewer wires and sensors to deal with than required. It just seems like more to go wrong at the end of the day.

Also good to hear some first hand feedback regarding this setup. Does your tuner have any Dyno figures? Would be interesting to see the torque curve for what he is running. Also any idea on his fuel consumption? If this swap goes well I may have to consider it for my 80...

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Real Name: Reinart

Sun Oct 25, 2015 11:25 am

You won't have problems with it.

There is only one LINK agent in SA, Ian Obelholzer, lives in PE.

If I tell you he knows he's product and does a fair bit, have a look on youtube, Rezlo Racing, he has a fast S14 200SX kicking out close to 450kw, that's on a 2litre 4 cyl. Has done many builds and when it comes to management, just wow.

Did a lot of racing on our local tracks, and I can tell you, the very expensive porche twin turbo's had their hands full with him. Not sure the class but it is way up there.

The best about the LINK management is, your car NEVER has to see a DYNO.

ECU logging, send it to him, he does his magic, sends it back and you load it on to your ecu.
(The log file get's sent back and forth, not the ECU).

He has got a forum of his own, RAW, Rezlo auto works, can join and have a look.

If you want to contact, Ian@rezlo.com

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Real Name: Reinart

Sun Oct 25, 2015 11:32 am

Got a couple of stories where the LINK management saved his engine, once when a newly installed thermostat did not open, LINK sensed the water intake temp too high and cut the fueling and ignition, would've sat with a blown motor, another stage the fuel line partially came lose in the engine bay, fuel got sprayed all over including the windshield, management sensed a loss in fuel line pressure, also cut ignition and switched off the fuel pump, luckily did not catch fire, would've lost his car as there weren't fire martial around the track, only at the pits. But like I said, have a look on youtube, some of his vid's are on their, but you will have to join his forum to have access to more of his stuff. It's basically like this forum, just register obviously free and then you have access.

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Real Name: Reinart

Sun Oct 25, 2015 11:36 am

Knuppel wrote:I have 170mm from the front of the Visco drive to the cross member, So have to fit a Visco and coupling into 100mm and then still have 25mm clearance between fan and radiator!

A mechanically driven fan it WILL be, now to find the right visco and fan blades.
Hang on, your also doing a 3U or the 1U? Either way the the engine size is identical, how do you have so much clearance, that's enough for me to fit everything... The rad is s 60mm and the fan is 85-90mm :shock2: :shock2:

But I must add, my motor is not aligned and in place, but not much to go further back...

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Real Name: Reinart

Sun Oct 25, 2015 6:45 pm

Knuppel wrote:I have 170mm from the front of the Visco drive to the cross member, So have to fit a Visco and coupling into 100mm and then still have 25mm clearance between fan and radiator!

A mechanically driven fan it WILL be, now to find the right visco and fan blades.
My engine is sitting quite low at the moment, not much space between the tappet covers and the firewall have about 125-130 mm between idler pulley and the front bracing on the body where the bonnet catch sits.
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20151025_181756a.jpg
How can you have so much space??? lol

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Sun Oct 25, 2015 7:33 pm

I will take some pictures in the morning but my motor is definitely a lot closer to the rear.
Also still busy with mockup but the T/Box was exactly 70mm further back from the original mounting bolts on the cross member

I am also relocating the hand brake. My body lift is 55mm and was playing with washer to get the ideal lift.
Output shaft at the rear of the t/box is 10mm higher than the original height. Distance from chassis to block where i removed the original mount is 115mm on both sides. Can also just get my fingers between the steering box and pump.

I think we may not quite be measuring from the same point so will take pics to show.

And your solution to the manifolds is ???? :beg:
Last edited by Knuppel on Mon Oct 26, 2015 7:59 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Real Name: Reinart

Mon Oct 26, 2015 6:08 am

Knuppel wrote:
And your solution to the manifolds is ???? :beg:
I have not touched the manifolds :silent: :silent:

I'm going to pull the motor, get the mani's on, and put it back...

So you are not using the original mount on the hilux chassis? Wouldn't mind seeing a pic of your solution there. :surrender: :surrender:

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Mon Oct 26, 2015 9:29 am

Hope this helps but I think we may have the same measurements, my engine is still "As is" so I have the wiring harness at the back that fills the gap by the firewall.

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Extension plate welded onto the gearbox mounting.
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Mon Oct 26, 2015 9:31 am

Reinart21 wrote:..............

Hang on, your also doing a 3U or the 1U? .................
1 UZ VVti with visco drive.
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Reinart21
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Real Name: Reinart

Mon Oct 26, 2015 10:03 am

Knuppel wrote:
Reinart21 wrote:..............

Hang on, your also doing a 3U or the 1U? .................
1 UZ VVti with visco drive.
Can the visco also be used on the 3u?

What radiator are you using?

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