Luke Mitchleys supra 7mge conversion of Th0r the hilux

pampoen · Post by **pampoen** » Thu Jun 04, 2009 8:30 am

Hello all my hilux contempories

at long last my 7mge motor from boston jap tech arrived!on a crate nogul wrapped in plastic like an extremly heavy postal order!!!!!ive decided to put this thing in on my own and over the next few months i will be posting pics,asking stupid questions and generally making a nuisance
of myself.so any advice and pics you gentlemen have will be greedily processed by myself,thenks!!

.first question.what is the general rate for bell housings peticularly cressida,i live in durban and i dont want to get ripped off,im mating the 7mge which i believe to be from a supra to a std 91 hilux 4x4 5 spd gearbox,is the cressida the right one to go for?

Mr_B · Post by **Mr_B** » Thu Jun 04, 2009 8:53 am

pampoen wrote:...over the next few months i will be posting pics,asking stupid questions and generally making a nuisance
of myself...

So you'll be joining the rest of us then!

Welcome Forum Nuisance 12500221551125

Regards,
Admin

Dadz Toy BFI · Post by **Dadz Toy BFI** » Thu Jun 04, 2009 8:56 am

Congrats Luke, looking forward to the Report Backs

I'm sure you'll get plenty of help and guidance from the 7MGE owners and the "closet 7MGE fans" who secretly lust after a Supra's Heart (that's me

).

Post peekchaz after you'll pulled back the plastic asblf man

R

Mr_B · Post by **Mr_B** » Thu Jun 04, 2009 9:11 am

Dadz Toy BFI wrote:...and the "closet 7MGE fans" who secretly lust after a Supra's Heart (that's me )

Lust... now that's an understatement...

Hoppy · Post by **Hoppy** » Thu Jun 04, 2009 9:36 am

Be carefull where you buy the bell housing, most of them doesn't fit, a propper one will set you back R2736.00

You've got quite a way to go, there's a lot to be done, but you're on the right forum.

BenHur · Post by **BenHur** » Thu Jun 04, 2009 10:13 am

Luke

just a friendly request. For the sake of order keep all the posts in this one thread instead of starting a new one with each new question.

Good glad to hear your motor arrived.

1st thing. Bell housing and flywheel. As Hoppy said be very careful. I paid R 1600 IIRC a few years back from a local scrapyard for an original Cressida Bell housing and flywheel. you did not mention flywheel in your post but chances are good that your motor cam from an auto donor vehicle and will thus have a flex plate on and not a proper flywheel.

A heard of a few guys who had issues with after market stuff. Athur (Hiluxman) also had problems and then bought a new original bell housing from Gemini Spares in Johannesburg and his problem was solved. Give them a call (their details on here: http://www.hilux4x4.co.za/offroad_accessories.php)

pampoen · Post by **pampoen** » Thu Jun 04, 2009 11:10 am

:wth:

BenHur · Post by **BenHur** » Thu Jun 04, 2009 10:32 pm

If you cut your slam tray and cradle a bit and move the radiator forward and move out aircon condenser (if you have one), you may just be able to fit it with the viscose. A 50 mm body lift will also improve space inside the engine bay

pampoen · Post by **pampoen** » Fri Jun 05, 2009 10:30 am

Im looking for a 3.0i cressida bell housing so if anyone has one laying around or has seen one for sale please please let me know!!!

BenHur · Post by **BenHur** » Fri Jun 05, 2009 1:06 pm

Have you tried Gemini?

pampoen · Post by **pampoen** » Sun Jun 07, 2009 5:20 pm

The thing is im not prepared to pay R2000 for a bell housing.Im going to cut a new flexplate? or make an adaptor?Friday i spent a small fortune on petrol and telephone calls driving around trying to find a bellhousing for a Cress 3.0i!theyre like hens teeth

rather make a plan,do it my way

pampoen · Post by **pampoen** » Sun Jun 07, 2009 5:31 pm

When looking for a submersible fuel pump is 5 bar enough?

Spartan · Post by **Spartan** » Sun Jun 07, 2009 5:40 pm

pampoen wrote:The thing is im not prepared to pay R2000 for a bell housing.Im going to cut a new flexplate?

It is better to spent the money now and have the wright stuff than end up paying money for repairing, and the chances are 99% that you are going to break something if not using the original stuff.
Why would you cut a new flex plate?

BenHur wrote:you may just be able to fit it with the viscose

Why not go for electric fans?

BenHur · Post by **BenHur** » Tue Jun 09, 2009 10:54 pm

Spartan wrote:
pampoen wrote:The thing is im not prepared to pay R2000 for a bell housing.Im going to cut a new flexplate?
It is better to spent the money now and have the wright stuff than end up paying money for repairing, and the chances are 99% that you are going to break something if not using the original stuff.

Luke

Luister vir die oom

Learn from similar mistake many guys made before you. Buy an original bell housing from Gemini and do it right first time. If you skimp on cost now and is not willing to pay for decent stuff rather revert back to the original state and stop the conversion else you are going to cry in the long run when the conversion becomes a bottomless pit chowing all your money

Jaws · Post by **Jaws** » Wed Jun 10, 2009 6:47 am

http://www.streetracing.co.za/forum/vie ... c&start=20

When #Rotor fitted a Toyota engine to his Nissan 1400 he also thought that he got a good bellhousing. In the end it costed him to remove everything again and cut the bellhousing in two, line it up and weld it together again. All this trouble could have been avoided if he just spend a few more rand for the real thing.

pampoen · Post by **pampoen** » Wed Jun 10, 2009 5:12 pm

I think i will go origional bellhousing .where would i get an air flow meter from.?and what fuel pump woujd you advize,iwould like it in the cab so i can swop out if it breaks?

Toybox · Post by **Toybox** » Wed Jun 10, 2009 5:22 pm

Ditch the MAF idea, if you're fitting an aftermarket fuel injection controller then they'll use a MAP sensor. far more relaible and much easier to come by....

Mr_B · Post by **Mr_B** » Wed Jun 10, 2009 6:37 pm

pampoen wrote:I think i will go origional bellhousing .where would i get an air flow meter from.?and what fuel pump woujd you advize,iwould like it in the cab so i can swop out if it breaks?

You can use any decent HP fuel pump, like the Mr Turbo ones or a Bosch that is rated at 3 - 6 bar, but for the 6 cylinder engine I think a higher flow rate would be required, like 210L/H... example:

Mr Turbo 601:
http://www.mrturbo.co.za/index.php?page ... t&Itemid=1

I also much prefer the ones with metal connector pipes, much more rugged than the plastic ones... it's a very bad idea to fit the pump in the cab... serious fire hazard... a HP pump spews fuel at a rapid rate if a leak develops... and your cab will stink like fuel forever... rather mount it properly below the cab... like such maybe:

viewtopic.php?f=41&t=5429

It perfectly accessible and out of harms way, protected by the metal base plate...

B

BenHur · Post by **BenHur** » Wed Jun 10, 2009 10:25 pm

I have bought a FP 601 for uncle Mac's Safari EFI and when I got home I realised the metal outlet was actually also the one way valve and had a funny connection. I ended up paying another R 50 for a banjo fitting and special modified nut to screw the fitting on :evil: :evil: . Not sure if the FP 601 is going to be good enough for a Lexus as those moutors make lots of horses and HP = fuel so if you skimp on the fuel pump's flow rate you may end up with an under powered engine. Rather go for a mama Bosch pump that can keep the V8's thought wet.

Something like a Bosch: 0580 254 046.

pampoen · Post by **pampoen** » Fri Jul 03, 2009 1:41 pm

how have the 7mge guys got hold of wiring harnesses?im battling!

Spartan · Post by **Spartan** » Fri Jul 03, 2009 7:50 pm

pampoen wrote:how have the 7mge guys got hold of wiring harnesses?im battling!

If you buy a after market ECU you will get a harness/wiring loom with it, but if you try to go for the original ECU the law of the Tranvaal kicks in

PERS KERS · Post by **PERS KERS** » Sun Jul 12, 2009 7:45 am

koop by toyota die bellhousing, gebruik n 4y se flywheel en clutch kit, daar is nie n' wet van transvaal nie spartan weet net nie hoe om n' Totota pruduk te wire nie, ek sou eerder die 7mgte gebruik het, jy is op die regte pad met standard ecu!!!

Spartan · Post by **Spartan** » Sun Jul 12, 2009 11:17 am

PERS KERS wrote: gebruik n 4y se flywheel

Hy het n fly wheel, hy soek nie een nie en die bell houseing moet n 7M sin wees en ........ WHATEVER :roll:

BenHur · Post by **BenHur** » Tue Jul 14, 2009 12:38 am

PERS KERS wrote:koop by toyota die bellhousing, gebruik n 4y se flywheel en clutch kit, daar is nie n' wet van transvaal nie spartan weet net nie hoe om n' Totota pruduk te wire nie, ek sou eerder die 7mgte gebruik het, jy is op die regte pad met standard ecu!!!

Spartan wrote:
PERS KERS wrote: gebruik n 4y se flywheel
Hy het n fly wheel, hy soek nie een nie en die bell houseing moet n 7M sin wees en ........ WHATEVER :roll:

Ja ek wonner ook hoe gaan jy 'n 4Y flywheel en bellhousing daar maak werk. Vir 'n 7M conversion gebruik jy wel die 4y/7M clutch kit (selle ding) maar die bell housing en flywheel is anders.

En ag nee net nie weer die standard ECU storie nie ek dog ons het nou al daarverby ge-evolve. Dit is 2009 ons gebruik 2009 tegnology ECUs vir EFI, nie 1980 technology met unreliable MAF sensors en miljoene vacuum idle up circuits nie.

O ja en 7M-GTE moet jy te veel versigtig ry anners strip jy die ratkas se 4de en 5de (vra maar vir Hoppy hy het so paar gestrip voor hy van die GTE ontslae geraak het.) En jou brieke is ook heeltemal onvoldoende om 'n GTE te stop so daar gaan nog geld vir hengse briek ombouings. Nee wat die normal aspirated engine maak net soveel meer sin.

PERS KERS · Post by **PERS KERS** » Tue Jul 28, 2009 2:17 am

Enige ou kan n ratkas breek, hang af hoe jy ry, SFA se remme is in elk geval swak , dus upgrade is nodig met n ombouing, 4Y flywheel jammer ek het julle iets gedeel wat julle nie weet.

BenHur · Post by **BenHur** » Tue Jul 28, 2009 7:39 am

PERS KERS wrote:Enige ou kan n ratkas breek, hang af hoe jy ry, SFA se remme is in elk geval swak , dus upgrade is nodig met n ombouing, 4Y flywheel jammer ek het julle iets gedeel wat julle nie weet.

Nee ou die issue is nie dat jy iets deel wat ons weet nie die isue is eerder daai poefies beter-wetige houding van jou. Die res van ons hier is vriende met mekaar en hier is 'n natuurlike ekwilibrium tussen die ouens, ons verwelkom nuwe mense maak vriende met hulle en dan gesels ons oor die dinge, maar as 'n newby hier instap dink sy boude stink nie en hy weet beter as almal of dat net sy manier die regte een is dan piepie hy sommer almal hier af.

PERS KERS · Post by **PERS KERS** » Tue Jul 28, 2009 3:11 pm

Bennie ek se nie my manier is die enigste of beste nie, nog minder se ek ander forum lede sleg, ek gee my idee wat ek gebruik het en dit het gewerk so take it or leave it. Daar is nie n' wetige houding nie, ek het dit gewoontlik self gedoen of iemand gehelp doen.dis duidelik dat daar sekere forum lede erg kleinserig is of ,af kom op n' ander lid onnodig, of hulle kan hulle reply met n' beter gesindheid plaas. Indien ek op van my replies te hardegat was , was dit op iemand se aanmerking wat na my gemik was. groete

pampoen · Post by **pampoen** » Mon Sep 14, 2009 8:52 am

So what about chipping the ECU?would that help at all?And what would you guys suggest ECU wise? Dicktator ETC

pampoen · Post by **pampoen** » Mon Oct 05, 2009 8:30 pm

I found it impossibe to fit my 7mge using 2.2 engine mounts into the engine bay with standard body mounts,im in the process of installing 50mm body lifts in,will this be enough to clear the fire wall??

cprinsloo · Post by **cprinsloo** » Tue Oct 13, 2009 10:13 pm

How's the conversion going?

CP

Spartan · Post by **Spartan** » Wed Oct 14, 2009 5:37 am

What is takeing so long with this conversion

pampoen · Post by **pampoen** » Mon Oct 26, 2009 2:35 pm

Well im working away from home and only have one day to do work on Thor.Its going

you try doing a conversion by yourself!

Spartan · Post by **Spartan** » Tue Oct 27, 2009 10:37 am

pampoen wrote:you try doing a conversion by yourself!

Het al n paar gedoen 8 )

OOOOMS · Post by **OOOOMS** » Tue Oct 27, 2009 11:14 am

Het al n paar gedoen

Self, vat nie langer as 4 uur

pampoen · Post by **pampoen** » Thu Dec 24, 2009 10:44 pm

Im thinking of getting the GO TECH PRO X FMS...now im a complete rooky when it comes to this type of stuff....i would like to hook up the lambda sensor up to the system..i want complete tuneability.I also love the way it works off the wasted spark system..Are there any articles i could go through at my own speed to know more?

ThysdJ · Post by **ThysdJ** » Fri Dec 25, 2009 8:30 am

Luke, I know some guys who have had endless problems with GoTech. Hoppy will also be able to tell you more about this. I dont know if they got their act together yet, but in the past the GoTech FMS used to ony work for guys who take life a quater mile at a time. Even my good friend Carlo Voetsek (7MGE) had to get rid of his GoTech because it gave him too many problems. His Hiilux used to go like the clappers, for about 50km... then it was crap... until it got another tune-up...

He now has a Diktator FMS installed and his 7MGE was dyno'ed at 152kW on 33" tyres. He's as happy as a pig in a mud now..

Rather go with one of the other FMS option that are discussed on the forum a lot and where thee are guys who could give you a hand or advice if you pick up hassles.

IMHO GoTech really really sucks in a 4x4 setup...

Spartan · Post by **Spartan** » Fri Dec 25, 2009 10:52 am

Niks fout met gotech nie maar dit is jou keuse, lank terug het hulle probleme gehad maar soos ek sê dit was lank terug.

pampoen · Post by **pampoen** » Fri Dec 25, 2009 6:26 pm

Shot guys

..too many speed and sound mags!

pampoen · Post by **pampoen** » Fri Jan 01, 2010 2:13 pm

When installing a bigger fuel pump to run a 7mge does one need to change the fuel lines running to the engine?

Post by **Mud Dog** » Fri Jan 01, 2010 3:20 pm

As far as I know, no, the standard ones are adequate. A 6mm ID pipe should'nt leave you
with too much of a pressure drop, but the guys who've done this conversion will know
for sure.

Mr_B · Post by **Mr_B** » Fri Jan 01, 2010 8:36 pm

Andy... sorry man I'm going to disagree with you... based on my experience with efi'ing my 4Y...

The std fuel line ID is 6mm... with is fine for a carb fed engine, with a mechanical fuel pump... but for a high performance engine it's going to be inadequate... the inlet on any decent HP fuel pump (like a bosch) is 10mm ID and sometimes a bit larger... they are designed to accept a 10mm feed from the tank... with a 6mm feed the pump is going to be sucking too hard at the input side... this in turn causes cavitation, and eventual pump overheating and premature failure... on my conversion I replaced the 6mm line with a 10mm ID feed straight from the tank pickup to the pump... this on Alan's(Hoppy) advise... so the pump gets a decent supply at all times... my pump operates near silent and stays cool... even after hours of open road driving... then use 8mm pipe from the HP pump output to fuel rail... remember a high performance 3L 24V engine at full throttle, full load requires alot more fuel than a little 4Y...

Run it like this:

Tank pickup -> 10mm ID pipe -> inline fuel filter -> 10mm ID -> HP pump -> 8mm ID pump/line -> HP filter -> 8mm ID pump -> fuel rail

I've seen one installation with a LP fuel pump between the inline filter and the HP fuel pump... but this was an extreme machine...

mr b

pampoen · Post by **pampoen** » Fri Jan 01, 2010 10:42 pm

Forgive me for my ignorance and complete rookiness but could you please explain this to me?

What does this mean?
> 8mm ID pump/line -> HP filter -> 8mm ID pump ->

Post by **Mud Dog** » Fri Jan 01, 2010 11:09 pm

ID means Internal Diameter .... HP = High Pressure.
So what Bretton's saying is use a 10 mm ID between tank and first inline filter (before the punmp), 10mm ID from that filter to the HP pump itself, then 8mm from pump to HP filter and 8mm again from HP filter to fuel rail.

Mr_B · Post by **Mr_B** » Fri Jan 01, 2010 11:44 pm

Sorry Luke... typed that up in a hurry... corrected:

Run it like this:

Tank pickup -> 10mm ID pipe -> Inline fuel filter -> 10mm ID pipe -> HP fuel pump -> 8mm ID pipe -> HP fuel filter -> 8mm ID pipe -> Fuel rail

If you want to do it 100% correct and safe, then consider having 8mm steel fuel inline done, from the HP fuel pump outlet to the HP fuel filter and then from the HP fuel filter to the fuel rail... on my conversion we used a high quality 8mm rubber fuel hose... so far I've had no hassles with it...

On my conversion, I dropped the fuel tank, took out the pickup(3 screws) and drilled out the 6mm steel pipe, and the drilled a 15mm(or so) hole in the pickup mounting, and welded a new 10mm ID steel pipe into place... and bent the new pickup pipe to match the original's bends... pretty easy... with Alan doing the welding of course... only pain was dropping and refitting the tank...

mr b

Spartan · Post by **Spartan** » Sat Jan 02, 2010 5:19 am

What I did: Install bigger fuel line from tank to HP pump, out into a anti surge tank, out of a.s.t into a HP pump and from pump to fuel rail. It is quiet, you don't run out of fuel when going up-hill and you have enough juice for that long 6, and do use a fuel filter like Mr.B said

Mr_B · Post by **Mr_B** » Sat Jan 02, 2010 9:06 am

I also planned on installing a surge tank... but after I did the whole installation and tested it on a few 4x4 trails, I never had an issue with fuel starvation... maybe the hills weren't steep enough, but some dunes we've run up and down are pretty steep and long...

mr b

pampoen · Post by **pampoen** » Sat Jan 02, 2010 12:51 pm

Shot guys invalueble info.

BenHur · Post by **BenHur** » Sun Jan 03, 2010 7:19 am

RustyRod wrote:Andy... sorry man I'm going to disagree with you... based on my experience with efi'ing my 4Y...

The std fuel line ID is 6mm... with is fine for a carb fed engine, with a mechanical fuel pump... but for a high performance engine it's going to be inadequate... the inlet on any decent HP fuel pump (like a bosch) is 10mm ID and sometimes a bit larger... they are designed to accept a 10mm feed from the tank... with a 6mm feed the pump is going to be sucking too hard at the input side... this in turn causes cavitation, and eventual pump overheating and premature failure... on my conversion I replaced the 6mm line with a 10mm ID feed straight from the tank pickup to the pump... this on Alan's(Hoppy) advise... so the pump gets a decent supply at all times... my pump operates near silent and stays cool... even after hours of open road driving... then use 8mm pipe from the HP pump output to fuel rail... remember a high performance 3L 24V engine at full throttle, full load requires alot more fuel than a little 4Y...

Run it like this:

Tank pickup -> 10mm ID pipe -> inline fuel filter -> 10mm ID -> HP pump -> 8mm ID pump/line -> HP filter -> 8mm ID pump -> fuel rail

I've seen one installation with a LP fuel pump between the inline filter and the HP fuel pump... but this was an extreme machine...

mr b

Bretton... sorry man I'm going to disagree with you... based on my experience with efi'ing my 4Y/22R/7M/L28...

The pickup is 8mm, the return is 6mm. Many pumps HP pumps actually have a 13mm input only certain models have 10, I have done a few setups where their is a slight bit of cavitation on the standard pump feed, but it does not make the pump overheat and the only EFi I did with pump failure to date was yours which you did the fuel pump installation yourself with the 10mm ID pipe.

Enough teasing, the 7M I started 2 days ago still has the original tank pick-up, once the fuel system was bled no cavitation can be heard when she idles. But I do still think a surge tank just before the HP pump will be a good idea in the long run due to the fact that you can pump return fuel via the surge tank back to the main tank. What you do when you bring the return fuel from the engine back to the surge tank so that the gravity feed from the tank pick up only needs to replace the fuel the engine has used up and not everything the HP pumped to the engine A surge tank with connections in this manner literally only needs to hold 50ml of fuel or less, if you had a surge tank without the fuel return connection it will provide no benefit as the HP can not suck more fuel out of the surge tank then what the gravity feed can replace from the tank else the surge tank will implode

. Maybe the term surge tank is actually wrong and confusing maybe it should be called juntion tank or something... :? :?

Remember one other thing. Under general driving a 7M will not use more fuel the a 4Y its only when you press the volume control and start running the engine past the approx 75HP a 4Y is capable of that more fuel is used.

Here is a few things I have observed so far:

Many times a captivating HP pump means the FPR is running at too low a pressure, if you increase the fuel rail pressure (clamp a vice grip around your fuel return line as it exits the FPR) cavitation goes away and the pump goes silent.

LP inline or intank pumps provide very little benefit to your fuel system, they can even make the system more noisy as the HP pump literally such the fuel through the LP pump quicker then the LP can pump itself. The only mayor benefit a LP pump has is to bleed out air in the line before the HP pump if at any stage your fuel tank ran dry or your pick-up was exposed due to driving extreme angles with a not to full tank. That is why I never go offroad when my tank is below 1/2

My 10C ( I believe they are now going to remove 5c coins out of circulation as well)

Mr_B · Post by **Mr_B** » Sun Jan 03, 2010 10:59 am

Ahoy Bennie... that's exactly why I started my mail by saying 'in my experience'... cause I knew you were going to comment... the bakkie that I mentioned with the LP pump inline had it wired to the 4x4 switch... so the LP pump only operated when in 4x4 was engaged...

BenHur wrote:Many times a captivating HP pump means...

Are these "captivating" HP pump any better than the normal one? Never heard of these before!

I did a little research on pump cavitation... just a few reasons why any form of cavitation is undesireable:

http://www.mcnallyinstitute.com/01-html/1-3.html

mr b... awaiting another Bennie roasting...

PERS KERS · Post by **PERS KERS** » Sun Jan 03, 2010 10:17 pm

Ek het net een antwoord vir julle, gebruik std Toyota HP pomp wat in tenk pas, stil en dis n' Toyota produk!!

BenHur · Post by **BenHur** » Mon Jan 04, 2010 1:26 pm

Toemaar Britney moenie worry nie ek like ook nie cavitation nie dis flippen irriterend as die ding heeltyd so raas. Maar ek dink die hele 10mm feeder pyp is over rated. Die 7m wat ek die naweek gestart het se pomp is stil met die origional pickup net so in plek en die 4Y met 'n 10mm pickup het baie cavitation gehad (ek het nie een van die twee conversions gedoen nie net die electronics) Dit bewys net weereens my punt dat cavitation niks met die feed na die pomp se size te doen het nie maar met hoe vrylik die petrol vloei wat die pomp verlaat. As jy die druk op die outlet kant van die pomp verhoog gaan die cavitation weg.

Alex

Toyota is te duur en in-tank pompe het 3 groot nadele, jy kan nie 'n service-interval replaceble filter op die input van die pomp sit nie en as jou pomp foutief gaan moet jy die tank eers drain en afhaal om by die pomp by tekom, nie iets wat ek dalk in die middel van die woestyn of soortgelyke plek wil doen nie. En 'n plain submersable pomp sonde behoorlike baffels in die tank om die petrol rondom die pomp se pickup te trap is niks beter as 'n externe pomp as dit by lug suig kom nie.

Post by **Mud Dog** » Mon Jan 04, 2010 1:47 pm

Just an added snippet of info .... fuel temp also can cause cavitation in an otherwise sound setup. Fuel has a very low boiling point and the closer it gets to that the easier it will cause the pump to cavitate. The heat from the motor passing through under the vehicle on a hot day together can raise the fuel temp considerably. I remember the older BMW's (late 80's) used to have this problem regularly ..... one had to stand and let the fuel cool down or add cold fuel to get going again.

BenHur · Post by **BenHur** » Mon Jan 04, 2010 1:57 pm

That is another reason why it is advisable to fill up once you tank goes past half as the more the fuel the cooler it will remain

Mr_B · Post by **Mr_B** » Mon Jan 04, 2010 3:18 pm

Sorry... my tank pickup pipe is actually 12mm... not 10mm... not sure if that makes a difference...

mr b

BenHur · Post by **BenHur** » Mon Jan 04, 2010 7:59 pm

RustyRod wrote:Sorry... my tank pickup pipe is actually 12mm... not 10mm... not sure if that makes a difference...

mr b

Yes its too big that's why your first pum failed, and the second one...

Mr_B · Post by **Mr_B** » Mon Jan 04, 2010 8:23 pm

The first one was an elcheapo Ryan... R399 brand new... it was what I could afford at the time... from the word go it was noisy and cavitated... eventually it overheated and failed... the Bosch HD is great... no cativation... no noise... no heat... just R1600... point is get a decent pump!

mr b

BenHur · Post by **BenHur** » Tue Jan 05, 2010 1:46 pm

So what your are thus saying is what I have always said... A cheap pump is the problem not the size of the tank pick up. You proved that a bigger pipe does not help to stop cavatation if the pump is gagga. I am sure if you revert to a normal pick up your Bosch pump will still not cavitate and work fine, just like the others I did.

pampoen · Post by **pampoen** » Tue Jan 05, 2010 4:59 pm

ok more questions does anyone know where the fuel inlet and outlet pipes are exactly on a 7mge engine?

Mr_B · Post by **Mr_B** » Tue Jan 05, 2010 5:18 pm

Is there not a fuel rail... inlet should be on the one side... outlet on the other(with a FPR)??

mr b

Spartan · Post by **Spartan** » Wed Jan 06, 2010 5:15 am

The inlet sit closest to the firewall and the return to the tank on the fan side of the fuel rail (the thing that the top of the injectors are attached to), at the inlet side you will have a fuel pressure regulator and on the outlet side you will see a fuel pressure damper. Normally the regulator will have a plastic cover on and the damper will be black. On top of the regulator you will find a small screw, do not tamper with it.