Recovery Information Thread - Facts Only

Please tell us how your Hilux helped somebody in need
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HennieJ2
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Fri Aug 20, 2010 7:56 am

Hi Guys, as promised, here-with the recovery information thread. I will post some more on it here over the week-end, but this is not for stories - just facts that can be substantiated by proof or calcs, etc. Thread that fail the criteria will be removed, so do your homework, before posting here. :boss: :boss:

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Fri Aug 20, 2010 8:15 am

May I suggest we list the recovery items:
1) Winch
2) Hi-Lift Jack & Jack Plate
3) D Shackles
4) Bow Schackles
5) Tow Strap
6) Kinetic Strap / Rope
7) Tow Hitch / Hooks
8) Tree Protector
9) Snatch Block
10) Sand Ladders
11) Gloves
12) Recovery Bridal
13) Winch Blanket
14) Cable lengh / Recovery Chain
15) Spade and Shovels
16) Recovery points on vehicle
i) SFA
ii) IFS
iii) Vigo
17) Air Jack


Please pm me if you want to add equipment to this list and then we can discuss them individually.

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Fri Aug 20, 2010 8:37 am

1) Winch - Fact
- Using a single line ie from vehicle to anchor point you will be able to ie. pull 1000kg (eg only depending on your cable / rope)
-By using a Snatch Block ie. doubeling the rope it will increase to ie. 2000kg
-Tripple line using Snatch Blocks ie.3000kg

Always keep the hood / bonnet open while winching

Keep the enjine of the vehicle running while winching (1500rpm)

-When more than one person is involved in the recovery, it is important to appoint ONE person in charge, giving loud clear instructions.
-The less cable on the drum, the greater the pulling power (never leave less than 5 turns of cable on the drum)
-Winch equipment must be serviced regularly and be in a good condition
-Always wear gloves
- Keep spectators at a safe distance (rule of thumb, twice the lengh of the played out cable)
-Do not step over the cable one it is attached to the anchor point as it is now considered live
-The very last step before winching, is to plug in the control
-Never leave the controll plug unattended
-Avoid winching at an angle
-A winch under load can draw up 100amps
-Keep hands at least 1m away from the fairlead rollers while winching
-Do not slide the cable through your hands, use the hand over hand method
-Never use the winch as a tow rope, as it could damage the winch gears
-Replace frayed or damaged cable

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Fri Aug 20, 2010 8:44 am

Some safety aspects to keep in mind.

1) Make sure all recovery points are fixed to the vehicle chassis with the correct rated bolts.
2) Only use weight rated shackles (if you HAVE to use shackles).
3) Always make sure you know where the weakest link in the recovery is. If possible make sure the strap breaks before the recovery points.
4) Always use a lanyard on a kinetic recovery to absorb some of the energy should a recovery point fail.
5) Use a bridle to spread the load over 2 recovery points on a vehicle.
6) Never, ever, ever use a shackle to join 2 kinetic straps.
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Fri Aug 20, 2010 8:46 am

11) Gloves
Always use a good pair of leather gloves when winching or doing any recovery, as they protect your hands from dangerous elements.

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Fri Aug 20, 2010 8:54 am

13) Winch Blanket
The object of the blanket is to dampen cable or rope when snapping. Preventing injuries to spectators.

Other items such as heavy jackets / towels or normal blankets may also be used.

Blankets can also be used for with kinetic ropes as well.

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Fri Aug 20, 2010 9:57 am

9) Snatch Block
Ensure you have a good quality snatch block (not home made) and service frequently.

Under normal circumstances one snatch block is sufficient, but it is handy to have two.

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Fri Aug 20, 2010 10:03 am

8) Tree protector
Must be at least 2m long and 100mm wide

Used to anchor vehicle and protect tree as the name describes.

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Fri Aug 20, 2010 10:26 am

2)High Lift Jack
Please note that this piece of equipment after a winch is by far the most versitile recovery tool and much cheaper.

- This simple piece of equipment can be very dangerous if handled incorrectly.
- Maintain your HI Lift Jack frequently through proper lubrication
- If the jack is used frequently you can turn the shaft around to avoid excessive 'pin wear'
- Replace the main shaft should it become bent.
- Wear your gloves and never work under a vehicle if only supported with a HLJ.
- If the jack is unattended, keep the 'lift arm' in the upright position.
- Keep hands clear of any moving operation whilst using the jack.
- When jacking up a vehicle with a HLJ ensure it secured and can not roll / move.
- Oops almost forgot....wear your gloves!

Other uses:
- Can be used to clamp something
- Can be used as 'jaws of life'
- Can be used as a de-beader
- Self recovery, if you do not have a winch using an ancor point

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Fri Aug 20, 2010 1:15 pm

When using a winch hook make sure the opening of the hook faces upwards like in the picture below. Should the hook snap or break it will be forced into the ground and not shoot up in the air. What you should not do is use a shackle like in the picture. You want to have the least amount of connections in line and connect the hook directly on the chassis recovery point.
Image
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andrevt
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Fri Aug 20, 2010 1:55 pm

thanks you guys this is good info you never know it all
ImageImageImageImageImageImage


Toyota Hilux 3.0 D4D 4x4

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Fri Aug 20, 2010 2:20 pm

There are 2 things wrong in that picture Cassie.

1) the shackle for 2 reasons. Firstly it doesnt look like there is a weight rating on it, and secondly it is an unnecessary link in the "chain" as you mentioned.

2) The recovery point in the picture is also not weight rated and therefore an unknown quantity. Usually factory fitted (welded) loops like that is meant for towing purposes only and not for recoveries, especially not kinetic recoveries.
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Fri Aug 20, 2010 2:32 pm

Thys 100% correct on your point 2. What you really want is a sturdy point bolted onto the chassis with properly rated bolts. Something along the lines of the following:
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Fri Aug 20, 2010 2:45 pm

Regso Cassie, and if it is at all possible try to eliminate shackles from the recovery rig completely. I know it is not always possible, but if it is do so. Personally I use an open ended recovery hook eliminating the need for a shackle.

Shackle = Die klip in die kettie :shock: :shock:
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Fri Aug 20, 2010 6:03 pm

Weet nie of hier die regte plek is om die vraag te vra nie.

Het julle al gehoor van 'n Superwinch ,as iemand weet van die winch wat dink julle van die winch en hoe goed is hy en wat se prys klas val die winch
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Fri Aug 20, 2010 6:13 pm

ThysdJ wrote:Some safety aspects to keep in mind.


6) Never, ever, ever use a shackle to join 2 kinetic straps.
I know this rule and never used it but what I dont understand is why a shackle is mos very strong it wont break so easy, or am I missing something here :blushing:

And then Ive seen that trick to join 2 straps with a stick but cant remember how it work again :blushing: help anyone :sos:

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Fri Aug 20, 2010 6:57 pm

Guys, we are getting OT here, but keep the posts coming - we want to see what comes out of the wash and will eventually structure our recovery information accordingly.

HJ
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Fri Aug 20, 2010 8:31 pm

17)Air Jack

The air jack is a large PVC bag placed under the vehicle and is then filled with exhaust gas or compressor to lift the vehicle.
It is able to lift 4 tons. Car mats can be used to protect the PVC bag from being punctured.
Inflate the bag until the vehicle starts lifting, then stop and check that all is in order before you proceed to inflate to the required height.
Tracks can now be filled with rocks, brabches etc.
Care must be taken while the air jack is inflated as the vehicle can be unstable. The nozzle and filling cap must at all times be clean and accessable!

Always deflate the air jack completely before it is packed away as there could still be toxic exhaust gas in the bag.

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Fri Aug 20, 2010 9:37 pm

6) Kinetic Straps

When attached between two vehicles and stretched up to one and a third of its length. The energy is released and will jerk the stuck vehicle out.
After it has been stretched to its maximum capacity, the strap should be allowed around 30 minutes to return to its original position. Essentially a strap takes 24 hours to 'creep' to its original length.

When used in mud / sand wash the strap (no / detergents) let it dry in the shade as the material is sensitive to UV rays.

When a vehicle is stuck, reverse tow vehicle into reach of the strap and attatch.
Never use tow bar goosneck for this exercise.
If two recovery points are available make use of a recovery bridle.
If the tow vehicle cannot get close enough, akinetic strap can be lenghened by joining it to the second strap. Join the two straps with a piece of wood. Never use a shackle....as it can become a missile....!!!
Important to remember, when using kinetic straps / ropes, that the weight of the tow vehicle must not be less than the casualty.
After the strap has been attached, lay the strap down in a 'S' shape +- one third the length of the strap's length.
Clear all bystanders at least twice the length of th strap away from the vehicle.
Both drivers get in their vehicles, buckle up safety belts and have enjines running.
The recovery vehicle pulls away at the signal in a straight line normally 2nd gear, low range.
The jerk should free the stuck vehicle.
If not, the process can be repeated after the strap has 'rested' or by using a new strap.
Should the 2nd attempt also fail, winch power should be used.

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Fri Aug 20, 2010 9:50 pm

CasKru wrote:When using a winch hook make sure the opening of the hook faces upwards like in the picture below. Should the hook snap or break it will be forced into the ground and not shoot up in the air.
Also if a winch is to be attached to a vehicle with a shackle, the clevis hook should be removed completely from cable, and the loop be used in a similar way as when using a shackle and rope. The bow goes through the loop and the pin through the recovery point being used.
Johan Marais

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Sat Aug 21, 2010 7:53 am

Had this in My Documents

Kinetic Tow Ropes
Your Position
Your vehicle enters an area of soft ground and starts to loose traction. The driver continues forward in the hope that the ground will improve. The ground deteriorates further and traction decreases or completely ceases in a forward direction.

The Recovery

The driver does not attempt to drive out as this only worsens the situation. The towing vehicle reverses as close as possible to the distressed vehicle. The kinetic rope is then connected. The kinetic rope must be connected directly to the recovery or towing vehicle.

The towing vehicle then accelerates and snatches the rope with its total energy.

As the towing vehicle is slowed or halted its kinetic energy is converted into the potential energy of a stretched rope. The rope then transfers the energy to the bogged down vehicle. A faster recovery can be accomplished if the bogged vehicle has power to assist the transfer of energy by the rope.

After a slight pause the bogged vehicle rises free. If the vehicle is not freed by the first attempt the process is repeated. Once freed continued towing by the Recovery Rope is possible.

Recommended sizes and lengths for Recovery Ropes according to vehicle weights.


Gross Vehicle Weight (tonnes) Diameter (mm) Break Load Reference #
2.00 & under 20 8300 kg PA220220
2.50 - 5.00 24 12000 kg PA224220
5.00 - 7.99 36 24800 kg PA236220
8.00 - 11.99 40 30000 kg PA240220
12.00 - 15.41 48 42000 kg PA248220
15.50 - 18.49 52 48800 kg PA252220
18.50 - 21.99 58 58000 kg PA258220
22.00 - 23.99 60 63800 kg PA260220
24.00 - 30.99 64 72000 kg PA264220
31.00 - 43.99 68 78500 kg PA268220
44.00 - 54.99 72 90000 kg PA272220
55.00 - 65.00 80 11 0000 kg PA280220

WARNING
Kinetic ropes can be very dangerous if used incorrectly, both to people or property. Because of the more than 20% stretch of a kinetic rope, the forces created with momentum can easily overcome the breaking limits of anchoring points, connectors (shackles), or the kinetic rope. The elasticity of the kinetic rope can create a slingshot effect, which can cause serious damage or injury to people. The manufacturer of these kinetic ropes can not be held responsible for any damage or injury caused.


Basic Principles to keep in mind when using a kinetic rope.
• The first rule is not to expose you or your vehicle to any harm by getting stuck.
• The recovery vehicle must be of similar weight to the bogged down vehicle.
• Only use anchoring points on vehicle that are connected directly to the chassis and are rated by the manufacturer.
• Only use correct size rated connectors (shackles).
• Never use a kinetic rope on a winch or as a winch cable extension.
• Never tie knots in a kinetic rope when connecting it to a vehicle.
• Never use a damaged kinetic rope.
• Never combine or extend this rope with other ropes, webbings, chains or cables.
• Add 20% of the ropes length in the direction of pull, make a mark on the ground, and never exceed this distance with the recovery vehicle when pulling.
• Beware of bystanders in the radius of the length of the rope.
• Keep the rope clean and free from sand or grit.
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Sat Aug 21, 2010 7:57 am

A.J. wrote:
ThysdJ wrote:Some safety aspects to keep in mind.


6) Never, ever, ever use a shackle to join 2 kinetic straps.
I know this rule and never used it but what I dont understand is why a shackle is mos very strong it wont break so easy, or am I missing something here :blushing:

And then Ive seen that trick to join 2 straps with a stick but cant remember how it work again :blushing: help anyone :sos:
Image
Image

Keep in mind that shacles is made of metal and you get something like metal fatigue. If the strap breaks and somehow hit you, it will probably break a let and some serious bruising but if a shackle hits you it will take and arm, leg, head... etc clean off.
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Care of Your Ropes
Unreeling New Rope
•Remove rope properly from reels to prevent kinking. The rope should be removed by pulling it off the top while the reel is free to rotate. To proceed in any other manner may cause kinks or strand distortion. Never unreel rope from the side of the drum.
Handling
•Never stand in line with rope under tension. If a rope fails it can recoil with lethal force. Synthetic rope has higher recoil tendencies than natural fibre rope. Reverse rope ends regularly. This permits even wearing and assures a longer, useful life.

Abrasion
•Wherever possible abrasive conditions should be avoided. All rope will be severely damaged if subjected to rough surfaces or sharp edges. Chocks, bits, winches, drums and other surfaces must be kept in good condition and free of burrs and rust. Pulleys must be free to rotate and should be of proper size to avoid excessive wear. Clamps and similar devices will damage and weaken the rope and should be used with extreme caution. Do not drag rope over rough ground. Dirt and grit picked up by rope can work into the strands, cutting the inside fibres.

Chemicals
•Most synthetic fibres will withstand small doses of common chemicals. If you have any doubt please contact us for clarification. It is generally advisable to avoid exposure to chemicals where possible.

Temperature
•Temperature has an effect on tensile strength. The tensile strength charts apply to ropes tested at normal room temperature. Ropes have lower tensile strengths at higher temperatures. Also continued exposure at elevated temperatures can melt and part synthetic ropes or cause permanent damage.

Splicing
•Join rope by splicing. Knots can decrease rope strength by as much as 60%. Other terminations can be used but their strength loss with a particular type of rope and construction should be determined and not assumed.

Storage And Care
•All rope should be stored clean, dry, out of direct sunlight, and away from extreme heat. Some synthetic rope (particularly polypropylene, polyethylene, and aramid) may be severely weakened by prolonged exposure to ultraviolet (UV) rays unless specifically stabilized and/or pigmented to increase its UV resistance. UV degradation is indicated by discoloration and the presence of splinters and slivers on the surface of the rope.

Inspection
•Avoid using rope that shows signs of aging and wear. If in doubt, destroy the used rope. No type of visual inspection can be guaranteed to accurately and precisely determine actual residual strength. When the fibres shows wear in any given area the rope should be re-spliced, eliminating the damaged area.


•Check the line regularly for frayed strands and broken yarns. Pulled strands should be rethreaded into the rope if possible. A pulled strand can snag during a rope operation.
•Both outer and inner rope fibres contribute the strength of the rope. When either is worn, the rope is compacted or hard which indicates reduced strength.


General Care
•Ropes can be damaged in many ways. The main causes are UV rays, chemicals, oil, sharp objects, and abuse.

•Don't store your rope in direct sunlight.

•Avoid excessive exposure to oil, chemicals, and chemical fumes.

•Using a rope bag will prolong the life of your rope.

•Never step on your rope. This grinds particles of dirt into the rope's core causing abrasion.

•Give your rope a bath on occasion.

•Retire your rope, when it shows signs of wear.

•Inspect each line before use. It is impossible to state when to replace a line, but if you have any doubts, about the integrity of the line, replace it.
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Sat Aug 21, 2010 12:07 pm

CasKru wrote:
A.J. wrote:
ThysdJ wrote:Some safety aspects to keep in mind.


6) Never, ever, ever use a shackle to join 2 kinetic straps.
I know this rule and never used it but what I dont understand is why a shackle is mos very strong it wont break so easy, or am I missing something here :blushing:

And then Ive seen that trick to join 2 straps with a stick but cant remember how it work again :blushing: help anyone :sos:
Image
Image

Keep in mind that shacles is made of metal and you get something like metal fatigue. If the strap breaks and somehow hit you, it will probably break a let and some serious bruising but if a shackle hits you it will take and arm, leg, head... etc clean off.
Dankie gaan sommer kyk of ek dit kan print en in bakkie bere!! :goodjob: :goodjob:

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Sat Aug 21, 2010 1:20 pm

Het op die afgekom op die net
Attachments
KINETIESE TOU.pdf
(42.15 KiB) Downloaded 114 times
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Dankie Nick, interessant :thumbup:
merwn wrote:Het op die afgekom op die net

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Wed Sep 29, 2010 8:31 am

Here is what I consider to be the minimum safe setup
24092010618.jpg
As you can see the shackle is connected to the bull bar. Not ideal but the bull bar is fitted with properly rated bolts and the point it is attached to is in line with the chassis. As you can see the snatch strap is fed through a loop in the lanyard and the other end is attached to another point on the vehicle. Ideally you want to attach the lanyard to another structure than what the snatch strap is connected to. The snatch strap is rated at 8Tons and the lanyard at 4T. you will also notice that the bonnet is open to protect the occupants in the event something should brake
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Wed Apr 18, 2012 10:37 pm

Sorry I know this is a facts only thread, but does anyone know what the rating is of the of the front recovery hooks on the Hilux Vigo / Fortuner?

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Wed Apr 18, 2012 11:40 pm

Common sence.....
If something can go wrong... IT WILL :cry:

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Thu Apr 19, 2012 6:39 am

Bushwacker wrote:Common sence.....
If something can go wrong... IT WILL :cry:
OOOOMS wrote:Sorry I know this is a facts only thread, but does anyone know what the rating is of the of the front recovery hooks on the Hilux Vigo / Fortuner?
Dankie Piet..... :blackeye:

Maar is daai punt gerate :?:

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Thu Apr 19, 2012 7:02 am

OOOOMS wrote:
Bushwacker wrote:Common sence.....
If something can go wrong... IT WILL :cry:
OOOOMS wrote:Sorry I know this is a facts only thread, but does anyone know what the rating is of the of the front recovery hooks on the Hilux Vigo / Fortuner?
Dankie Piet..... :blackeye:

Maar is daai punt gerate :?:
Ek dink die standaard punte op 'n voertuig is glad nie gerate vir recovery nie. Dit is om die voertuig mee te sleep sou iets verkeerd gaan.
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Thu Apr 19, 2012 7:43 am

Dankie Cassie :thumbup:
Recovery points - Toyota Hilux 05 on ( Current Shape )

Rated to 8.0 tonne, The All Terrain Recovery hooks are a must for all Toyota Hilux 05 on ( Current Shape )

Beware - Original hoops which are welded onto plates and bolted onto the chassis rails are only used by the manufacturer for tie down points in transit, these are NOT load rated recovery points.

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Thu Apr 19, 2012 8:41 am

Mark, I unfortunately don't have exact figures but I can tell you it is to be used for towing only. I had one that broke off after very little pulling power was applied (Fortunately it just fell to the ground due to the slow speed and low pulling power used)

OOOOMS
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Joined: Tue Jul 16, 2013 7:09 am

Thu Apr 19, 2012 8:45 am

venom38 wrote:Mark, I unfortunately don't have exact figures but I can tell you it is to be used for towing only. I had one that broke off after very little pulling power was applied (Fortunately it just fell to the ground due to the slow speed and low pulling power used)
:thumbup: Dankie

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Oubaas
High Range 4WD
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Posts: 62
Joined: Wed Feb 13, 2013 10:21 am
Town: Rustenburg
Vehicle: 2008 Toyota Hilux Raider 3.0 D-4D D/Cab
Real Name: Dewald

Thu May 09, 2013 2:43 am

Ek het hierdie gekry en gedink dit kan dalk help.

Sien julle slim manne enigiets fout hiermee?

phpBB [video]

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http://youtu.be/nyNwtPW0w4k" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Every little boy wants a toy truck...
When the boy grows up it's only natural to want the TOY truck!


All I ask is the chance to prove that money can't make me happy.

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CasKru
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Posts: 24216
Joined: Tue Dec 04, 2007 11:52 am
Town: Benoni
Vehicle: '94 Hilux Raider 2.4i (22RE) DC 4x4
Real Name: Cassie
Club VHF Licence: B15
Location: Rynfield

Thu May 09, 2013 6:34 am

I think the recoveries were done quite safely. Two things I did notice however which I believe to be wrong.

With the first winch attempt (double line), the guys walks over the line. Even though it wasn't under tension it's bad practice.
In the second attempt, they should have opened the vehicles bonnet when they started to winch.

But overall I think it was done quite excellently with all the necessary gear
To God be the glory

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CasKru
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Posts: 24216
Joined: Tue Dec 04, 2007 11:52 am
Town: Benoni
Vehicle: '94 Hilux Raider 2.4i (22RE) DC 4x4
Real Name: Cassie
Club VHF Licence: B15
Location: Rynfield

Wed May 29, 2013 4:05 pm

James (mushroom) forwarded this very informative piece on winching to me.

Click here to download

To God be the glory

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mushroom
LR 4WD Rear Locker
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Posts: 412
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Town: krugersdorp
Vehicle: '16 Legend 45 DC 4x4M
Real Name: James

Wed May 29, 2013 4:38 pm

:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: thanks Cassie
Q20 if its stuck, duct tape if it moves :shock2: :shock2: :shock2:

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Mud Dog
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Joined: Tue Apr 29, 2008 2:18 am
Town: East London
Vehicle: '90 SFA Hilux DC 4X4, Full OME, 110mm lift. Brospeed branch, 50mm ss freeflow exhaust. 30 x 9.5 Discoverer S/T's on Viper mags. L/R tank. (AWOL) '98 LTD 2.4 SFA, dual battery system. Dobinson suspension, LR tanks, 31" BF mud's.
Real Name: Andy
Club VHF Licence: HC103

Wed May 29, 2013 7:02 pm

Sjoe! A long read, but very interesting and comprehensive (a bit overly so in places, but better having the info than not).

Tip: If you want to save the document to your PC, right click on the link supplied by Cassie ("click here to download") and choose "Save link as".

;-)
When your road comes to an end ...... you need a HILUX!.

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Life is like a jar of Jalapeño peppers ... what you do today, might burn your ass tomorrow.
Don't take life too seriously ..... no-one gets out alive.
It's not about waiting for storms to pass. It's about learning to dance in the rain.
And be yourself ..... everyone else is taken!

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