Kaspaas - Cold Air Induction Modification

ThysdJ · Post by **ThysdJ** » Mon Jan 12, 2009 8:45 am

I have been doing quite a bit of research into this Cold Air Induction thing since I am convinced that the hot air generated by Kaspaas's exhaust branch and which is being sucked into the air cleaner saps some power and can be improved upon. Also I needed the space where the air-box was to fit my aux battery, as I need more packing space in the load-bin.

Before we go any further, I just want to say that I am in agreement that a Donaldson air filter setup is better than a K&N setup, but Kaspaas was fitted with a K&N filter setup to start with, so I kept it that way. I know, I know, small pedestians, stray cats, lesser flamingoes (especially in the Kamphersdam area) etc etc and I know 2 wrongs dont make a right. I will take every precaution to ensure that as little dust as possible gets in there...

My dilemma was as follows: Kaspaas's air cleaner was situated in the spot where the original battery was, with the opening of the air-box pointing towards the headers. I also noticed that when the electric fan comes on, a jet of hot air gets blown right across the air-box, and also the position of the air-box could prove a problem when wading. The original position:

So with all my new found knowledge I set off to start the mod. The plan was to turn the Air Flow Meter (AFM) around so it faces backwards, and bolt the air filter directly onto the AFM and position it on top of the wheel arch out of harm's way. I wanted to make an aluminium shroud that reflects engine heat away from the air filter to only allow for cold air to be taken into the engine.

Modifying the air intake pipes and lengtening the wiring of the AFM was the easy part, but due to the position of the brake master cylinder and booster bending the aluminium to make the shroud was a bit of a challenge. So I canned the idea and ended up making a "bikini" shroud and blocked the area below the brake booster with high density foam to keep the heat out.

To ensure that there is enough air for the 7MGE to breathe we cut a hole in the firewall that leads to the "I-dont-know-what" area where the vents are. This, according to my research, is a "high pressure" area where air gets forced into the vents as a result of the angle of the windscreen. Apparently NASCAR also uses this area to get the air for their engines. I must admint I looked at this area in great detail before deciding where to cut the hole as I did not want to end up with rain-water flowing into the air-intake. The lower edge of the hole is about an 30mm above the bottom of the channel and the outlet is just on the other side of the bonnet hinge. The outlet is quite big, so it will have to be a substantial amount of water to be able to overflow into the engine bay. Also if the water comes up high enough for it to be sucked into the engine, the electronics would have hopefully died already, and I will be putting on my scuba tanks. Behold the HOLE:

Finished Product:

After all was said and done we took Kaspaas for a little ride, but as the exhaust pipe is still broken after our last Dunes expedition I enjoyed the 6-prop Spitfire sound so much that i didnt notice any gains in performance. I must admit that after driving for about 20km we stopped and felt the difference in temperature of the old position and the new position of the air-cleaner. It is a vast difference. I will get hold of a suitable thermometer to actually measure the actual difference.

During the drive I checked for "hot" air coming into the cabin via the vents, but no hot air came in, which means that airflow is "into" the hole rather than "out of" it.

Hopefully once the exhaust was fixed i would be able to see if there are actually any performance gains. Although this was not my main reason for doing the modification. Now the aux battery has a home up front and I feel more comfortable driving through water.

Petroholic · Post by **Petroholic** » Mon Jan 12, 2009 3:12 pm

Hi Kaspaas

Is that cold air induction realy working,because i got the V6 EFI in my hilux, but also need space for the second battery.I used the old ford aircleaner and it is taking up alot of space!

Bosvark · Post by **Bosvark** » Mon Jan 12, 2009 3:24 pm

Lyk my daai bakkie is ook meer by die garage as by jou eie,nee man verander hom weer soos hy van sy ma afgekom het,minder probleme

ThysdJ · Post by **ThysdJ** » Mon Jan 12, 2009 3:41 pm

Bosvark wrote:Lyk my daai bakkie is ook meer by die garage as by jou eie,nee man verander hom weer soos hy van sy ma afgekom het,minder probleme

En sukkel soos jy sukkel met jou ou gedroggie? Nee dankie, dan koop ek eerder 'n KZTE...

Bosvark · Post by **Bosvark** » Mon Jan 12, 2009 3:53 pm

koop hom koop hom dan kan jy ook in die groen boer klas ry!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

en dan

wees van al die fumes

Kaspaas wrote:
Bosvark wrote:Lyk my daai bakkie is ook meer by die garage as by jou eie,nee man verander hom weer soos hy van sy ma afgekom het,minder probleme
En sukkel soos jy sukkel met jou ou gedroggie? Nee dankie, dan koop ek eerder 'n KZTE...

ThysdJ · Post by **ThysdJ** » Mon Jan 12, 2009 3:55 pm

ten minste bou ek nie my snorkels uit toiletpype uit nie..

BenHur · Post by **BenHur** » Mon Jan 12, 2009 4:59 pm

Thys

Is jou bonnet hinges nog gelig met die spacers? Indien wel kry van daai stroke closed cell foam en fill die gaps bo op jou aliminium plate daarmee sodat warm lug nie oorvloei nie.

Wat interessant is met Cassie se wa is dat as sy stil staan met die bonnet toe waai die fan die warem lug op die pyp net voor die throttle body and daar word hY baie warmer as reg bo die radiator waar die pyp op die cowling rus.

As jy stadig ry of die bonnet opmaak is die temperatuur baie minder so dit lyk asof die warm lug daar vassit as sy stilstaan.

Voor die heat shield het ons to 20 grade verskil gemeet.

ThysdJ · Post by **ThysdJ** » Mon Jan 12, 2009 5:47 pm

BenHur wrote:Is jou bonnet hinges nog gelig met die spacers? Indien wel kry van daai stroke closed cell foam en fill die gaps bo op jou aliminium plate daarmee sodat warm lug nie oorvloei nie.

Die bonnet is deesdae 3mm gelig. Die closed cell foam is deel van die gedagte ja, ek het net nie daarvan gehad die naweek nie. Alternatiewelik maak ek 'n tipe canister wat oor die filter pas en direk by die "gat" aansluit. Ek sal daai R&D nog doen.

Kaspaas is nou eers weg vir sy eksors..

BenHur · Post by **BenHur** » Mon Jan 12, 2009 8:10 pm

EK en Cassie het ook die naweek van daai heat shield goete oor die runners van sy branch gesit want dié word effe warm en brand die plug drade FUBAR

ThysdJ · Post by **ThysdJ** » Tue Jan 13, 2009 6:56 am

Ek het ook 'n heat shield gebou, maar sommer van gewone aluminium flashing plaat. Lekker dun, goedkoop en maklik om te buig en te vorm en dit absorbeer hitte wat jy nie sal glo nie. Selfs al staan Kaspaas en idle tot die fan aankom kan ek steeds gemaklik aan die heat shield vat sonder om te brand.

Post by **CasKru** » Tue Jan 13, 2009 7:14 am

Dit is hoe myne lyk

ThysdJ · Post by **ThysdJ** » Tue Jan 13, 2009 8:12 am

watse blink goed het jy om daai gorrel gedraai Cassie??

Post by **CasKru** » Tue Jan 13, 2009 8:41 am

Hulle roep dit cool tape

http://www.quartermile.co.za/info/produ ... rriers.htm

ThysdJ · Post by **ThysdJ** » Tue Jan 13, 2009 8:54 am

Dis nogals cool hoor!!

Post by **CasKru** » Tue Jan 13, 2009 9:41 am

Kaspaas wrote:Dis nogals cool hoor!!

My bakkie het ook nou so bietjie bling :)

2.8 d/cab SFA · Post by **2.8 d/cab SFA** » Tue Jan 13, 2009 9:48 am

:D nice

Post by **CasKru** » Tue Jan 13, 2009 9:50 am

2.8 d/cab SFA wrote: :D nice

A cup of tea is nice!

ThysdJ · Post by **ThysdJ** » Tue Jan 13, 2009 9:53 am

Petroholic wrote:Hi Kaspaas

Is that cold air induction realy working,because i got the V6 EFI in my hilux, but also need space for the second battery.I used the old ford aircleaner and it is taking up alot of space!

Danie I will have to give you an answer on gains in power once I got Kaspaas back. But according to my research it does indeed work. Google "Cold Air Induction" and you will get lots of results of people who did all sorts of weird and wonderful things in this regard, and their results.

Bosvark · Post by **Bosvark** » Wed Jan 14, 2009 1:54 pm

Gewoonlik lig mens n bakkie se suspension om hoogte te kry,nie die bonnet nie,seker om by die Range Rover se looks aan te pas of hoe thysie

Kaspaas wrote:
BenHur wrote:Is jou bonnet hinges nog gelig met die spacers? Indien wel kry van daai stroke closed cell foam en fill die gaps bo op jou aliminium plate daarmee sodat warm lug nie oorvloei nie.
Die bonnet is deesdae 3mm gelig. Die closed cell foam is deel van die gedagte ja, ek het net nie daarvan gehad die naweek nie. Alternatiewelik maak ek 'n tipe canister wat oor die filter pas en direk by die "gat" aansluit. Ek sal daai R&D nog doen.

Kaspaas is nou eers weg vir sy eksors..

ThysdJ · Post by **ThysdJ** » Fri Jan 30, 2009 12:32 pm

I drove Kaspaas to work today. For the first time since I did this mod I am driving on open roads so I planted the accelerator to the floor a few times. There is a definite increase in pulling power from 2500 - 6000 revs in 2nd gear. Overtaking is going to be so much fun now!! Plus it sounds killer...

I will play a little on the weekend and see what improvements there are in the bush.

Dadz Toy BFI · Post by **Dadz Toy BFI** » Fri Jan 30, 2009 3:11 pm

bia bia interesting

I've got the same prob, I've noticed a significant power drop off once things warm up. :x

As I'm missing the front facing inlet pipe off my airbox I'm sucking in air that's drawn up past the headers

I'm keen to do something similar using a K&N "Small Bird" Filter thus throwing out the standar air box; untill now I couldn't figure out where to put the K&N to avoid sucking in hot air;

so I'm keen to hear if yours is a success Thys.

I'd have to cut the hole on the passenger side, can you see any probs with doing that

ThysdJ · Post by **ThysdJ** » Fri Jan 30, 2009 4:19 pm

Dadz Toy BFI wrote:I'd have to cut the hole on the passenger side, can you see any probs with doing that

Wont work Richard, as the wiper motor and the whole mechanism that makes the wipers go swing-swing is on the left hand side and there is no place to drill "the hole"..

I was looking at Coenie's Hilux not 10 minutes ago as he wants do do the same mod, but also needs the hole to be on the left hand side.

Dadz Toy BFI · Post by **Dadz Toy BFI** » Fri Jan 30, 2009 4:30 pm

Bummer, thought as much:x

How about using the cavity between inner and outer wing

(where you'd drill through for a left hand snorkel)

Post by **PAUL NEL** » Sat Jan 31, 2009 1:38 pm

CasKru wrote:Dit is hoe myne lyk

13012009130_Resize.jpg

Hallo daar hier van Springbok,Namakwaland,
Is jou Lux ligter op petrol nadat jy die efi ingesit het.
Ek het 'n '96 dc 2.4l petrol,het branches opgesit maar brandstof verbruik nog dieselfde.

My email adres: spbbuildit@telkomsa.net

Groetnis
Paul Nel

Dadz Toy BFI · Post by **Dadz Toy BFI** » Sun Feb 01, 2009 2:07 pm

I did a fair bit of testing on Saturday afternoon using the Dicktator's A.I.T. and my multi-meter temperature probe.

I was quite alarmed to see that at Idle and Urban speeds the Air feeding the Plenum was sitting between 36' and 39'c

If I popped the hood the temp dropped off quite dramatically to 28' (the ambient outside temp)

The engine deffinately performed smoother at the lower temperature, particularly the smoothness of the Idle.

So I'm keen to get to the bottom of this too. :Geek:

I guess I should start by making a hole in the inner wing only, as if I was routing a snokel.

Otherwise I guess it wouldn't be too difficult to send a hose over the motor to mount as per Kaspaas, may just cost a bit in heat deflecting tape

ThysdJ · Post by **ThysdJ** » Sun Feb 01, 2009 5:04 pm

Richard The whole idea with the hole in the spot that it is is because the "vent box" is a "high pressure" area, and the side wings are not, so air wont be forced into the hole from the outside.

Also, dont make holes in the inner wing only, you will only get a whole lot of dust and debris into your engine bay that gets kicked up in the wheel-well. If you make holes in the wings you should go go all the way out to the outside of the fender, and then you might as well fit a snorkel.

Find a way to get to the "clean" side of the vent-box at the base of the windscreen without making the intake pipe too long and without fouling up the workings of the wipers.

Google "Cold Air Induction" to see what other people have done in this regard, and also see the reasoning behind why they did it. You will find heaps of info on it.

BenHur · Post by **BenHur** » Mon Feb 02, 2009 11:32 am

Richard

The next best thing to a snorkel is to get a pipe to behind the left headlight as per the originally system. That will help the engine to suck in cooler air.

BUT

The airbox and the pipe to the throttle also soaks up heat from the engine and radiator, that is part of the reason why the IAT goes down when you open the bonnet. I saw on JohanM's van that when the is stands and idle in one place with the bonnet closed (even on a cool evening) the AIT reading goes up after a while, but the difference is that his goes down much quicker the moment you start driving again and cool air from the snorkel cools the system down.

ThysdJ · Post by **ThysdJ** » Wed Feb 04, 2009 8:00 am

Okay, after the weekend's driving I want to report that Kaspaas certainly does feel a little more alive. I cannot say if this is due to "colder denser air" that is coming into the air-intake, or the fact that the airflow into the air-cleaner is less restricted.

The previous setup allowed air into the air-box through a 50mm ID opening which was approx 30cm away from the exhaust headers. Now that restriction is gone, so logically performance should have improved already.

I have not done any measured tests yet, but by the seat of my pants, the verdict is good...

Dadz Toy BFI · Post by **Dadz Toy BFI** » Thu Feb 05, 2009 10:02 am

Kaspaas wrote:Okay, after the weekend's driving I want to report that Kaspaas certainly does feel a little more alive. I cannot say if this is due to "colder denser air" that is coming into the air-intake, or the fact that the airflow into the air-cleaner is less restricted.

The previous setup allowed air into the air-box through a 50mm ID opening which was approx 30cm away from the exhaust headers. Now that restriction is gone, so logically performance should have improved already.

I have not done any measured tests yet, but by the seat of my pants, the verdict is good...

Cool Bananas

How do you think that set-up handle the sand that blows around at Atlantis or will you take other cautionary measures (ie. I read something about using cling-film :? )

ThysdJ · Post by **ThysdJ** » Thu Feb 05, 2009 10:48 am

I put a condom on, how do you handle the sand at Atlantis?

No but seriously, the air cleaner, in it's current position, is more protected from sand than what it was before. The bikini-shroud sees to that. Also I cant remember Kaspaas's engine bay being inundated with sand after a visit to Atlantis, it is dust I am more worried about than the sand as such.

Back to the condom, remember in my first post I said that I know the K&N filter setup is not ideal, but there are some precautionary measures one can take to assist in keeping small animals out of the engine. K&N makes a "dust cover" which looks like a little flannel bag. This be the condom I refer to.

Mr_B · Post by **Mr_B** » Thu Feb 05, 2009 11:03 am

Hi Thys,

3 questions, all may be dumb, but well who cares...

1. Is it not possible to set it up so the intake only recieves air via the hole, and then to answer on own question it probably won't be able to supply enough air?? Probably to noisy??

2. On the noise issue, doesn't the hole allow extra engine noise into the cabin via the vent network?

3. Does it not steal air flow via the vents from the cabin, or does the interior fan overcome that??

This whole issue is new to me, but I'm keen to learn!

Br...

ThysdJ · Post by **ThysdJ** » Thu Feb 05, 2009 11:35 am

snipes wrote:1. Is it not possible to set it up so the intake only recieves air via the hole, and then to answer on own question it probably won't be able to supply enough air?? Probably to noisy??

Yes it is possible, and the air supply will be enough. The only reason why I didnt do it is for water that might come in thru the vents (wading and water flows over the bonnet) and might flow into the hole, will then flow into the air_cleaner.. Not Good.. At the moment the water can drain away. On the other hand, if Kaspaas is in such deep water the electronics would have probably died anyway so no water would go into the air cleaner. :? :? :?

snipes wrote: 2. On the noise issue, doesn't the hole allow extra engine noise into the cabin via the vent network?

There is some induction noise, but not that much. Kaspaas is very noisy anyway, so a little extra noise makes no difference.

snipes wrote: 3. Does it not steal air flow via the vents from the cabin, or does the interior fan overcome that??

Nope, the air flow is enough. I have not experienced any feelings of asphyxiation while driving with the windows closed and the aircon on...

Mr_B · Post by **Mr_B** » Thu Feb 05, 2009 11:46 am

I think if you connected it straight to the hole then noise may become an issue, as well as air loss at the vents. So if you have your aircon running then that cooled air is also available to the intake. On the water issue, I would probably make a cylinder type container around the filter, with the bottom open, so that any water would just drain away and you maximise the flow of cool air. With the way it's setup at the moment I would think you are getting 40-50% of the possible gains, the air turbulence in the engine bay would mean you are getting a mixer of hot exhaust mani air and cold air via the hole.

B

ThysdJ · Post by **ThysdJ** » Thu Feb 05, 2009 11:58 am

That is possible Bretton, I will investigate further, but for now I am quite happy. Somehow I doubt that a direct connection will cause an "air starvation" in the cabin.

Mr_B · Post by **Mr_B** » Thu Feb 05, 2009 12:38 pm

I found this reference on the internet:

'3000 liters per minute with the smart 999cc engine in top gear at 60mph'...

So I would say that the 7MGE sucks 7500 litres+ of air through the engine per minute, so forcing the engine to suck the majority of the air it needs through the ventilation system hole would be a bad idea, in fact I think it would suck air out the cabin quickly...

B

ThysdJ · Post by **ThysdJ** » Thu Feb 05, 2009 12:53 pm

snipes wrote:I found this reference on the internet:

'3000 liters per minute with the smart 999cc engine in top gear at 60mph'...

So I would say that the 7MGE sucks 7500 litres+ of air through the engine per minute, so forcing the engine to suck the majority of the air it needs through the ventilation system hole would be a bad idea, in fact I think it would suck air out the cabin quickly...

B

I will be wearing my scuba gear from now on...

ThysdJ · Post by **ThysdJ** » Mon Feb 09, 2009 9:59 am

Bretton. Here is an interesting article on Cold Air Induction, specifically from the cowl vents:
http://www.britishv8.org/Articles/MGB-C ... uction.htm

Mr_B · Post by **Mr_B** » Mon Feb 09, 2009 10:37 am

I took a better look at the area(under the vents, below the window) you are getting air from(on a lux standing at Alan's place). It looks like a feasible idea! What i thought about doing was trying to separate the area(below the vents) into a larger middle, and smaller left and right chamber, so the pressurised air can feed the vents(left and right), and the centre section can supply cold pressurised(depending on speed of vehicle) air to the intake manifold, I think the pressure will be best at the centre, based on air flowing off the sides of the windscreen. That way you could lessen the potential impact on the cabin vents and lessen the noise passed through the air vents. Also by doing something like this you could channel much more of the cool air into the intake(even less of the heated engine bay air)! Of course this is all theory, but very interesting theory to say the least!!!!

Bretton

ThysdJ · Post by **ThysdJ** » Mon Feb 09, 2009 10:54 am

I agree it is interesting. My initial thoughts were not so much to get cold air in (although this was an added benefit) as it was to keep water out of the air cleaner and not drowning Kaspaas. In the original position the air cleaner was prone to flooding even when wading even at a moderate depth. With the air cleaner up there the chances of water getting into the engine are pretty slim...

The mini shroud that I built around the air filter should eliminate most of the turbulence in the engine bay, but I plan on enclosing it completely by sealing the top of the shroud against the bonnet, which would mean that 90% of the air comes from "the hole"

Mr_B · Post by **Mr_B** » Mon Feb 09, 2009 11:18 am

Thys that sounds like a plan! I will investigate and see what I can do with this idea on a 4Y layout, where the air filter box is on the right side!

B

Mr_B · Post by **Mr_B** » Mon Feb 09, 2009 11:12 pm

Hi guys,

I took a look at the standard setup on a 4Y, the position of the air intake pipe is in an interesting position, right behind the right side headlight, I'm sure this headlight produces quite a bit of heat when operating so I can't imagine this is a really good spot for cold air induction.

The simplest solution I can see is to make a hole in the inside fender, at the top of the wheel arch(right back). Then you insert/install a U pipe in the fender cavity(above the wheel arch), so the U pipe doubles back into the vent channel below the windscreen, another hole is made between the top of fender cavity and vent channel. This looks to me like the neatest solution on a 4Y config. It may not even be nessecary for the U pipe because the top of the fender is seperated from the lower wheel arch by covers, so not much dirt will get through.

Another option would be to just run a neat bit of piping to the center of the vent channel and just make a hole there. The opening of the original air pipe is not wide at all, 5cm to 6.5cm, so the pipe doesn't have to has a big diameter! This can all be done using the original Donaldson filter housing!

Bretton

ThysdJ · Post by **ThysdJ** » Tue Feb 10, 2009 7:10 am

Bretton, please take pictures and explain yourself with schematics and diagrams. I was under the impression the Donaldson setup on a 4Y is on the left hand (passenger) side of the engine bay, yet you refer to the right head light giving off enough heat to impede engine performance? The pipe under the fender idea can also work, but I would not terminate it just under the fender, those plastic covers over the wheel wells are pretty flimsy and not exactly dust proof....

Mr_B · Post by **Mr_B** » Tue Feb 10, 2009 8:24 am

Sorry Thys, my left/right is looking from the front of the vehicle into the engine bay, I know to be 100% correct I should refer to left and right from the drivers position! I'll put together a quick diagram of my 2 options.

Bretton

Post by **george** » Tue Feb 10, 2009 8:26 am

Bretton, please take pictures and explain yourself with schematics and diagrams. I was under the impression the Donaldson setup on a 4Y is on the left hand (passenger) side of the engine bay, yet you refer to the right head light giving off enough heat to impede engine performance?

Britney was facing the bakkie head on and then it is the right head light on the passenger side.

Mr_B · Post by **Mr_B** » Tue Feb 10, 2009 9:33 am

Ok here we go 2 basic options illustrated...

Something to remember Thys, according to the British V8 article you posted, the high pressure/ forced air induction only gives a max gain of 0.5%, and this is at cruising speeds(say 100 - 120km/h), so offroad/crawling the forced air gains would be useless, in a racing scenario where the vehicle is running flat out and very bit of extra HP counts, forced air would be desirable. On the other hand getting cold air to the intake gives much better results a 4 to 5% gain, so the position the opening into the top of the wheel well could be an option, I would then install a cleanable course air filter inline upstream, so that only the finer dust get through to the main filter...

Here are the 2 options I'm looking at(please excuse the crude illustrations):

Left hand(right hand in pic

) fender option:

Windscreen vent option:

Oh the base pic is a carb'd 4Y, but the air piping is the same.

Bretton

Scorpion · Post by **Scorpion** » Tue Feb 10, 2009 9:51 am

Looks good, Bretton, but I spot two possible problem:

1.) On the second pic your pipe goes in where the vehicle ID plate(?) is. I would NEVER touch it. The moment it's moved, our esteemed Police would regard it as being tampered with, ie, stolen, etc. You will have endless problems with them...

2.) I can't remeber how my Donaldson looks, but it seems on your illustrations that the new inlet pipe is extended from the outlet going to your carb/EFI. The uncleaned air will go directly to your engine and bypass the filter?

ThysdJ · Post by **ThysdJ** » Tue Feb 10, 2009 10:05 am

snipes wrote:the high pressure/ forced air induction only gives a max gain of 0.5%, and this is at cruising speeds(say 100 - 120km/h), so offroad/crawling the forced air gains would be useless

It is not MY fault if your 4Y cant crawl at 100-120km/h!!

It's looking good Bretton. I agree with Johan though, dont move that VIN plate..

Dadz Toy BFI · Post by **Dadz Toy BFI** » Tue Feb 10, 2009 10:34 am

Britz

I'm thinking that the best option is through the wheel arch as there would be too much ducting to get into the HP/cool air Area.

Just now I'm gonna be back talking about stompie snorkels again :roll:

For all intents and purposes I'm discarding the HP Factor cos as you rightly say it's only a consideration at high speeds - and who does that in a Lux

ToyX4 · Post by **ToyX4** » Tue Feb 10, 2009 11:00 am

Jammer nou as ek n dom vraag vra, maar hoekom sit julle nie net n snorkel op nie?

ThysdJ · Post by **ThysdJ** » Tue Feb 10, 2009 11:02 am

My hele gedagte was om nie R x000 vir 'n snorkel te betaal nie, omdat ek nie so diep deur water gaan ry nie, en ek 'n vinnige oplossing gesoek het.

ToyX4 · Post by **ToyX4** » Tue Feb 10, 2009 11:10 am

Nee, dan verstaan ek. Het gedink dit het iets met geld te doen.
Die BMW moet ook seker weer amper nuwe bande kry, so geld uitgee op n snorkel is onnodig

Mr_B · Post by **Mr_B** » Tue Feb 10, 2009 11:16 am

Ok a small fix up for the vin plate... Scorpion it's the intake pipe in the pic, before the air filter, the post air filter pipes exits the housing right below the inlet pipe.

See pics:

Do you folks know where I could get flexible air con piping, I see Afripex make something that looks viable:
http://www.afripex.com/catalogue.asp#Group30

Why am I looking at a snorkel alternative... well first a snorkel is really expensive so it's out of the question, secondly just after purchasing my lux, I drowned her in water, the water was pretty deep, but if I had moved the intake position higher up the engine would not have swallowed water! Fortunately no serious damage occured.

B

ThysdJ · Post by **ThysdJ** » Tue Feb 10, 2009 12:19 pm

ToyX4 wrote:Nee, dan verstaan ek. Het gedink dit het iets met geld te doen.
Die BMW moet ook seker weer amper nuwe bande kry, so geld uitgee op n snorkel is onnodig

Dis eerstens ingatgeit Riaan

, en tweedens glo ek nie daaraan om sulke pryse te betaal vir 'n overpriced stuk pyp met die woord "Safari" of iets dergeliks op nie... Dis ongehoord. :evil: :evil:

Bretton have you tried Good Hope Spares in Brackenfell? I seem to remember they have all sorts of ducting and pipes and stuff.

Mr_B · Post by **Mr_B** » Tue Feb 10, 2009 12:34 pm

Goeie Hoop Onderdele is a fantastic spares dealer, but the ID size piping I would require would cost an arm and a leg from them, as usual I would like to prototype this mod first, use inexpensive materials, once I'm sure of myself and the concept I will commit more finances... I know the air con industry uses the type of flexible pipe I need(think it's called aircon conduit), hey wait what about using old pool kreeping/vacuum cleaner pipe

just for the prototype??

B

Dadz Toy BFI · Post by **Dadz Toy BFI** » Tue Feb 10, 2009 12:49 pm

snipes wrote:Goeie Hoop Onderdele is a fantastic spares dealer, but the ID size piping I would require would cost an arm and a leg from them, as usual I would like to prototype this mod first, use inexpensive materials, once I'm sure of myself and the concept I will commit more finances... I know the air con industry uses the type of flexible pipe I need(think it's called aircon conduit), hey wait what about using old pool kreeping/vacuum cleaner pipe just for the prototype??

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If you can't get hose, then you can use irrigation pipe and bends, I think some place like Brights should have the hose and pipes

Mr_B · Post by **Mr_B** » Tue Feb 10, 2009 4:22 pm

I managed to find a hose and rubber products supplier in Brackenfell, they are around the corner from Goeie Hoop Onderdele... called Roraski Rubber Products, the chap says the have PVC flex hose that will probably work well.

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Dadz Toy BFI · Post by **Dadz Toy BFI** » Tue Feb 10, 2009 4:30 pm

snipes wrote:I managed to find a hose and rubber products supplier in Brackenfell, they are around the corner from Goeie Hoop Onderdele... called Roraski Rubber Products, the chap says the have PVC flex hose that will probably work well.

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What I.D. is that

Mr_B · Post by **Mr_B** » Tue Feb 10, 2009 4:56 pm

I believe it's 50mm, I am going to measure the standard one this evening. They stock a wide range of ID's and stock the GoodYear Spiraflex® Ducting which I may consider using for the final product, depending on cost(

):

http://www.goodyearep.co.za/ProductsDet ... axid=14222

Anyway I'm going to investigate further this evening, do I little recon job!

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Dadz Toy BFI · Post by **Dadz Toy BFI** » Tue Feb 10, 2009 6:55 pm

snipes wrote:I believe it's 50mm, I am going to measure the standard one this evening. They stock a wide range of ID's and stock the GoodYear Spiraflex® Ducting which I may consider using for the final product, depending on cost( ):

http://www.goodyearep.co.za/ProductsDet ... axid=14222

Anyway I'm going to investigate further this evening, do I little recon job!

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I think the 63.5mm ID. is more suitable.

Mr_B · Post by **Mr_B** » Tue Feb 10, 2009 11:31 pm

Hi guys,

It 23:20, so no time to post pics, will do that in the morning. I did the investigation, IMHO the best spot for the pipe on a 4Y is, looking from the front of the vehicle into the engine bay, on the left of the wiper motor. I opened the vent cover and checked out what's inside(took pics), and theres only the connector rod from the wiper motor to the arm pivot. Theres more than enough space for a 60mm dia hole... Richard you are correct a 63mm pipe will fit perfectly.

Night...

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