KZ-TE Clutch questions

[dust-devil]

My trusty 2001 KZ-TE has just clocked 180 000km (daily use, mainly tar, but average two or three bush trip per year - sometimes pulling a big trailer.
1. What sort of distance before the clutch needs replacing?
2. How do I know when the clutch is starting to pack up - what are the warning signs?
3. Does it happen gradually or just suddenly one day no clutch?
4. What does it cost when it goes (ball park)?
5. Any things to be aware of when the time comes to do the job?

Any info much appreciated.

[Mud Dog]

My trusty 2001 KZ-TE has just clocked 180 000km (daily use, mainly tar, but average two or three bush trip per year - sometimes pulling a big trailer.
1. What sort of distance before the clutch needs replacing?
2. How do I know when the clutch is starting to pack up - what are the warning signs?
3. Does it happen gradually or just suddenly one day no clutch?
4. What does it cost when it goes (ball park)?
5. Any things to be aware of when the time comes to do the job?

Any info much appreciated.

1. It's probably coming up for replacement soon ... a lot depends on the type of driving that you do, short hops and town driving (stop / go) will wear the clutch quicker while open road trips will wear very slow. Regular towing will also shorten it's life. Also your driving style ... do you tend to 'ride' the clutch, or do you drive with your foot resting on the clutch pedal (the latter will shorten the life of the release bearing, which if needing replacement would mean that the clutch would be done at the same time even if not yet necessary - one doesn't go to the trouble of pulling out the box without replacing the clutch)

2. If the release bearing is on it's way out it will become noisy and you will hear it when depressing the clutch. If the clutch plate / pressure plate on on their way you will notice that it starts to slip when under load, like when towing or when going up a hill.

3. It's very seldom that you will suddenly have no clutch ... mostly there are warning signs as described above. Sudden loss of clutch is more likely to be the hydraulic system, and is usually an easy fix.

4. Cost of replacement can vary depending on what's required .... release bearing would be replaced in any event (not an expensive item) and usually the pressure plate is replaced at the same time as the clutch, bit it's not really always necessary (recommended though). In some instances it's necessary to skim the flywheel ... in most cases not. To have it done in a shop would probably cost between 2 and 2.5k. If you were able to do it yourself, a clutch kit (clutch plate, pressure plate, release bearing) would be in the region of 1k.

5. Things that should be looked at at the same time are, • Check condition of spigot bearing and replace if required. • Check for leaking / weeping rear crank seal, as well as gearbox and x-fer case shaft seals. • Check clutch hydraulic system. • Check on the condition of the prop shafts ... universals and carrier (centre) bearing.

[conversion man]

PLEASE send the name of supplier that can give a KZ clutch for 1k MIDAS in Pretoria is closer to 3k

[Mud Dog]

Phew! Looks like I'm more than a little out of touch with some pricing ..... Midas quoted me R2500 incl. for a Luk clutch kit. Autozone for a Luk R 2800 incl and their House brand (Femo) R 912 incl. So it seems you can still get at R1k, but I wouldn't recommend the 'el cheapo'

However, you would still save yourself a fair amount by doing it yourself

[Hoppy]

If it doesn't slip or shudder, leave it alone, the KZ has a heavy duty clutch, i've seen them do well over 300 000kms

[Thabogrobler]

My Kz has a clutch gone on 127000km due to a leaking oil seal.

Most clutches sold is 'Light Duty' however I know SACHS sells a 'Medium Duty' which I believe is what is commonly referred to as heavy duty. Last time I checked it was about R1K more that the normal one.

SACHS 012 327 0040

[Buffalo Soldier]

I will have to change the clutch kit within this year somewhere, bearing a bit noisy, but no slipping of the clutch, and the mileage now around 220 000 km. When the gearbox needs to move backwards, do I have to lower the rear end of the engine as well? Or will the bell housing clear the firewall? I suppose the gear levers will have to be removed as well (obviously all cables and wiring also)? Then, while the gearbox is out, I need to check/replace some synchros as well. Some gear scratching going on from 1st to 2nd. Would this be an easy opening box, or are there some tricks of the trade when doing this.

Thanks for the info in advance.

[Mud Dog]

Yes, levers and peripherals all have to be disconnected. Not sure of the KZ, but sometimes the starter motor also needs to be removed if the bolts go through to the bell housing. The bell housing should clear the firewall ... might be necessary to drop the box at the rear a little so as to tilt the motor a bit on it's mounts.

[Buffalo Soldier]

Thanks Andy, mind is set to do it during the December closure. But will source the parts before that.

[Mud Dog]

If you don't have a g/box jack, be sure to organise some helpers .... those boxes are @#$%^& heavy!

[Donkey]

Hi Russell

Whilst the g/box is out also check the condition of the "fork" which is often over-looked, replaced my clutch kit on the platkar early in the year, only for the clutch to fail again in a few weeks due to a fork that had a hairline crack but I never picked it up.

Regards.

[mtbbiker]

Hi Guys

I am in the process of replacing the clutch on my 2700i (after 219K km). I have also tried to go the "heavy duty" clutch option. Every place I phoned (including SACHS) told me there is not such thing as a heavy duty Clutch .
I paid R2300 for a Sachs, they quoted me for the LUK about R2600. These I got from STAR brake and Clutch in Edenvale. I am also going to replace the Main Crank Seal (That is actually why I am replacing the Clutch). I got the original seal from Toyota for R465.00