Hilux 4x4 Forum

So i have a set of 32" Khumo tyres on 10J rims laying around at home.

Considering, fitting them on the LTD.
Only mod currently is the EFI and the Old Man Emu suspention.

Is there a way to make the 32" fit without moving the axcel?

Thinking of lifting the body 50mm, will this be sufficient?

The rear isn't a problem but 32" will foul on the foot-wells in front. A body lift isn't going to solve the problem with articulation. Move the axle, much easier to do than a body lift anyway. Even with the OME lift, the front prop slip joint can easily handle the 30mm forward shift. You just have to bend an "S" shape with heat into the drag-link (remove the nylon cups and all the grease before heating). You also have to shorten the torque-rod. Can be done by cutting and welding but the better option is to buy or make an adjustable one.

Personally I would stay with the 31's but do the shift anyway. I have 31's on my LTD and I've done rocky riverbeds where the other guys are running 33's ..... no problem, just have to choose your line carefully. I have scraped an axle or a diff here and there but it's slow deliberate driving, so no bashes. The 32's aren't going to help significantly over the 31's IMO.

An alternative would be to use the 31,s as daily runners and switch to the 32's for that extra ½" clearance when you're going to do some rougher stuff.

I was not to happy with the previous diff move i did on my Light blue SFA if it had a cross over steering then yes.the torqrod limits the articulation to much, and i do not like driving without it.

Having an adjustable torque-rod made up is not the end of the world. Get an engineering works to take 60mm out of the rod in the centre and put opposing threads onto each side of the split rod (one with LH thread and one with RH thread). They must also make up a 150mm long barrel nipple, also with opposing threads from each side that the split rod can turn into and be adjusted like a turn-buckle. Threads should be a tight fit so that it can't turn loose on it's own.

Can't understand why you were unhappy with your last axle shift .... one of the best mods you can do to the SFA and works fantastically if done right. It should not affect the handling of the vehicle at all. Seriously, it's the way to go and I would choose that option over a body lift every time.

My white SFA has had it done and torque rod is never removed. Yes, a torque rod limits articulation but as you say I would rather have it on than not with the standard push / pull steering. The thing is that it's better to have more articulation in the rear than the front anyway.

One of the things that appears to limit the articulation with the original torque rod is the rod rubbers which do not allow a lot of rotation about the fixing bolts.
I have replaced the ends with 'johnny joints' / rod ends. No torque rod causes a multitude of issues, even though sometimes they may not be blatantly obvious.

Mmmm Maybe i should reconsider That Diff move

GeorgeJvR wrote: ↑Tue Feb 04, 2020 12:50 pm Mmmm Maybe i should reconsider That Diff move

Time to do some reading, again.

You will be able to fit 33's too one day then:) Don't forget extending of the brake lines, and I would recommend increasing the prop length - I added 45mm to mine, good for the OME lift and axle shift together.

Tim86 wrote: ↑Tue Feb 04, 2020 1:40 pm You will be able to fit 33's too one day then:) Don't forget extending of the brake lines, and I would recommend increasing the prop length - I added 45mm to mine, good for the OME lift and axle shift together.

If you have an adjustable torque rod made up you just use the original one if the rubbers are still good (most of the time they are). There is no need for the rose joint / Johnny joint in that case because the twist will be taken up in the "turn buckle". To stop it from turning out of adjustment you turn one side into the barrel nipple with thread tape so that it's much tighter than the other side which you leave without tape. That way it twists back and forth on one side thread only. I would even put a bit of grease or copper-slip on that untaped side so that the threads don't wear.

George ek sal bly by 31.s.

Agree with staying with 31", less strain all round.


-F_D

Family_Dog wrote: ↑Tue Feb 04, 2020 8:05 pm Agree with staying with 31", less strain all round.


-F_D

And the speedo reads true.

The torque rod also partially reduces vertical movement of the axle.
The rubber bush is bonded onto the inner tube that has 'teeth' that bite into the brackets on the diff and the chassis when the bolts are tightened.
It is also bonded to its split outer casing and the whole bush assemblies are press fitted into the torque rod eyes at each end.
The friction between the split outer casing and the eye also prevents any movement between those surfaces (often they rust together).
When the axle moves up or down from the rod's neutral (set when the bolts are tightened) position, the rubber bushes go into twisting around the bolts. As there are two you need double the force/torque to twist them.
For a stock suspension with lesser vertical travel the torque requirement may be easily provided and the rod limitation not very noticeable.
With an OME 50mm lift suspension and axle shift the rod will have a more noticeable effect on the vertical travel as the available travel is now greater than stock, and the rod is shorter hence less of a lever arm about the bolts.
Rod ends will mostly mitigate the vertical limitation, as well as the horizontal (axle twist) limitation. You do however lose the dampening effect of the rubber, but I am unsure if this is noticeable.

Some guys simply swap the torque rod out for a tractor top link, which is often much cheaper than having machining work done.

That LTD looks stunning as it is though.

Tim86 wrote: ↑Wed Feb 05, 2020 8:29 am That LTD looks stunning as it is though.

This is what is holding me back... She is sitting on 116000Km

Maybe i should fit the 32" as is just to see what she looks like

GeorgeJvR wrote: ↑Wed Feb 05, 2020 9:00 am Maybe i should fit the 32" as is just to see what she looks like

When you fit them on let me know . I was also considering fitting 32''s when my 31''s are due for change. it just looks cool.

Bear wrote: ↑Wed Feb 05, 2020 9:15 am

GeorgeJvR wrote: ↑Wed Feb 05, 2020 9:00 am Maybe i should fit the 32" as is just to see what she looks like

When you fit them on let me know . I was also considering fitting 32''s when my 31''s are due for change. it just looks cool.

All this talk of 31's and 32's got me thinking. It sounds like the general consensus is that 31's are the best fit for a SFA. At the moment I'm using 30.5's, but will need new tyres quite soon, so my question is, how does the standard 4y cope with 31's? Will I notice a loss in power, higher fuel consumption or not really see any difference other than my speedo reading more accurately? As far as I'm aware 30.5 is what the bakkie came out with. Thanks for the trouble.

31" tyres are fine, were fitted as standard.

Read the PDF Road Test here:

viewtopic.php?f=44&t=2109


-F_D

There shouldn't be much of a noticeable difference. You might find that it's a fraction shorter on legs when it comes to inclines on the open road. IIRC the original spare was a slightly smaller diameter than the 31's I had on the old silver SFA which was a 4Y. Could be that 31's became standard when the 22R motor replaced the 4Y.

Thanks, I think I'll try them when the time comes

Mud Dog wrote: ↑Wed Feb 05, 2020 6:40 pm There shouldn't be much of a noticeable difference. You might find that it's a fraction shorter on legs when it comes to inclines on the open road. IIRC the original spare was a slightly smaller diameter than the 31's I had on the old silver SFA which was a 4Y. Could be that 31's became standard when the 22R motor replaced the 4Y.

The strange thing is my 94' - 4Y came with 31'' Yokohamas standard. The sticker on the side post states 30'' inch tyre inflation specs though.
I have the original spare 31-10.5 R15 Yokohama - The funny thing thing is the spare was never used before, still has those rubber hair on the thread surface of the tyre.

I think the original tyre size for the split bead-lock rim was 30x16. When they started fitting the local Pro-White 15" rims they may have opted for the 31x15.

Hi Guys i'm leaning towards selling my 32" Kumho KL71 and buying 31" MTs for the LTD.
Seem like a lot of work for very litle ekstra clearance

Agreed.

GeorgeJvR wrote: ↑Wed Feb 05, 2020 9:29 am

Bear wrote: ↑Wed Feb 05, 2020 9:15 am

GeorgeJvR wrote: ↑Wed Feb 05, 2020 9:00 am Maybe i should fit the 32" as is just to see what she looks like

When you fit them on let me know . I was also considering fitting 32''s when my 31''s are due for change. it just looks cool.

You have tried the 32’’. I was awaiting your reply on fitting them.
What clearance issues did you have?

Bear wrote: ↑Wed Feb 12, 2020 9:40 am

GeorgeJvR wrote: ↑Wed Feb 05, 2020 9:29 am

Bear wrote: ↑Wed Feb 05, 2020 9:15 am

GeorgeJvR wrote: ↑Wed Feb 05, 2020 9:00 am Maybe i should fit the 32" as is just to see what she looks like

When you fit them on let me know . I was also considering fitting 32''s when my 31''s are due for change. it just looks cool.

You have tried the 32’’. I was awaiting your reply on fitting them.
What clearance issues did you have?

Hi Rick Sorry man never had the chance to fit them

Mud Dog wrote: ↑Tue Feb 04, 2020 9:07 am The rear isn't a problem but 32" will foul on the foot-wells in front. A body lift isn't going to solve the problem with articulation. Move the axle, much easier to do than a body lift anyway. Even with the OME lift, the front prop slip joint can easily handle the 30mm forward shift. You just have to bend an "S" shape with heat into the drag-link (remove the nylon cups and all the grease before heating). You also have to shorten the torque-rod. Can be done by cutting and welding but the better option is to buy or make an adjustable one.

An axle move is not required for 32". It is only for 33" and bigger.

Rebel 4x4 wrote: ↑Mon Feb 24, 2020 12:23 pm

Mud Dog wrote: ↑Tue Feb 04, 2020 9:07 am The rear isn't a problem but 32" will foul on the foot-wells in front. A body lift isn't going to solve the problem with articulation. Move the axle, much easier to do than a body lift anyway. Even with the OME lift, the front prop slip joint can easily handle the 30mm forward shift. You just have to bend an "S" shape with heat into the drag-link (remove the nylon cups and all the grease before heating). You also have to shorten the torque-rod. Can be done by cutting and welding but the better option is to buy or make an adjustable one.

An axle move is not required for 32". It is only for 33" and bigger.

Hi Rebel

Know I see where you get the name from “REBEL”

This is an ongoing battle on all forums. Majority of the guys say 32's will touch on articulation and then one or two guys say it does not and the topic just ends there. If I am not mistaken the BF Goodrich 32's are actually 31.5”.

Kindly add more light on the subject as I am very keen on fitting 32's. The 285 wide just looks much cooler on 10jj wheels.

Bear wrote: ↑Mon Feb 24, 2020 2:05 pm

Rebel 4x4 wrote: ↑Mon Feb 24, 2020 12:23 pm

Mud Dog wrote: ↑Tue Feb 04, 2020 9:07 am The rear isn't a problem but 32" will foul on the foot-wells in front. A body lift isn't going to solve the problem with articulation. Move the axle, much easier to do than a body lift anyway. Even with the OME lift, the front prop slip joint can easily handle the 30mm forward shift. You just have to bend an "S" shape with heat into the drag-link (remove the nylon cups and all the grease before heating). You also have to shorten the torque-rod. Can be done by cutting and welding but the better option is to buy or make an adjustable one.

An axle move is not required for 32". It is only for 33" and bigger.

Hi Rebel

Know I see where you get the name from “REBEL”

This is an ongoing battle on all forums. Majority of the guys say 32's will touch on articulation and then one or two guys say it does not and the topic just ends there. If I am not mistaken the BF Goodrich 32's are actually 31.5”.

Kindly add more light on the subject as I am very keen on fitting 32's. The 285 wide just looks much cooler on 10jj wheels.

I had 32" Good Year Wrangler MT's on my Hilux SFA. Drove them a long time till they were 'sat'. It never touched under articulation.

Rebel 4x4 wrote: ↑Mon Feb 24, 2020 3:50 pm

Bear wrote: ↑Mon Feb 24, 2020 2:05 pm

Rebel 4x4 wrote: ↑Mon Feb 24, 2020 12:23 pm

Mud Dog wrote: ↑Tue Feb 04, 2020 9:07 am The rear isn't a problem but 32" will foul on the foot-wells in front. A body lift isn't going to solve the problem with articulation. Move the axle, much easier to do than a body lift anyway. Even with the OME lift, the front prop slip joint can easily handle the 30mm forward shift. You just have to bend an "S" shape with heat into the drag-link (remove the nylon cups and all the grease before heating). You also have to shorten the torque-rod. Can be done by cutting and welding but the better option is to buy or make an adjustable one.

An axle move is not required for 32". It is only for 33" and bigger.

Hi Rebel

Know I see where you get the name from “REBEL”

This is an ongoing battle on all forums. Majority of the guys say 32's will touch on articulation and then one or two guys say it does not and the topic just ends there. If I am not mistaken the BF Goodrich 32's are actually 31.5”.

Kindly add more light on the subject as I am very keen on fitting 32's. The 285 wide just looks much cooler on 10jj wheels.

I had 32" Good Year Wrangler MT's on my Hilux SFA. Drove them a long time till they were 'sat'. It never touched under articulation.

IMG-20110806-00002.jpg

Thanks bud.