Hilux 4x4 Forum

Welcome Nico!

All good advice above, but research it more fully here by looking at the extensive coverage this issue has been given on this forum over the years. Whatever you do, don't send them in to be "re-tentioned" ... big mistake because they do it with heat. Cold press re-shaping is 1000% more eff...

I wouldn't worry about it, just leave it as is. A 2" lift is not a lot and doesn't make a significant difference in my opinion. Was your lift measured from before to after or from stock to after ... the old packs may have settled over time and your new packs may not be far from the original fac...

Right ... my bad.

It has been mentioned a number of times before on this forum. A search on front wheel bearings would most likely have brought that fact to light .... of course you have to read through it all.

You don't need to buy an expensive 54mm socket, a plumber's geyser element socket (pressed steel) works perfectly at a cost of about 80 / 90 rand.

Welcome Gary!

I agree that having it checked is a good idea. The oil could have water contamination which is rather serious because of rust to parts inside. It's obvious that you have no need nor desire to drive terrain where 4x4 is required, but the capability is there and you never know if or when you might nee...

... and you don't have to leave the cab to do it.

P.S. An alternative practise would be to leave the hubs unlocked, but to engage 4H instead (vehicle must stationary when you do this). This will churn up the oil in the transfer box as well as the diff.

Hi and welcome Riaan. There is no problem to just continue using the vehicle as a 4x2, but it really is recommended that you engage the hubs for a few kilos every now and then. This can be done safely on tar as long as the transfer box is not engaged (engaging 4x4). The reason for occasionally locki...

I'm no diesel fundi, but it's my understanding that the glow plugs act as a sort of spark plug, at least when the motor is cold. As Thabo said, the high compression and resulting heat, are effective enough for ignition. (Maybe the glow plug elements which surely remain very hot from the combustion, ...

Hi and welcome Sebastian. I don't know if David is still active here but you can try contact him using the contact details that are available. If you look at his profile on the left of his posts, at the bottom you will see "Contact" with a little 'speech bubble' next to it. click on the bu...

Welcome Peter. To the best of my knowledge, the rear end is the same for both 2wd and 4wd, just diff ratios may vary but that wont affect the suspension in any way.

That's just a dust cover for the clutch fork into the bell housing .... water getting in is not too much of a problem but it's ability to drain out is important. There should be vent holes at the bottom front end of the housing for this. Check that they're not clogged / blocked.

Very nice job and looks good. Well done. :thumbup: Without trying to detract from your efforts and workmanship, I would have done some things a little differently and intend my comments as positive input rather than criticism. Would have added a tread-plate for one (which you can still easily do). T...

You must use the Cruiser 75 ventilated discs with KZ-TE calipers, then it's a straight bolt-on. If you can, then also replace the booster / master cylinder with bigger KZ unit .... reason being that the KZ calipers have a bigger displacement and the standard master is just a little inadequate. Not a...

Welcome aboard Charl. Looking very good!!

Agree with Thabo .... I wouldn't go bigger than 33" tyres but as he said it more be strongly recommended to move the axle forward 30 / 35mm ... not a big issue ... search for "axle shift" on this forum. Without the forward shift, you are very likely going to get fouling of the tyre ag...

You can see what I did here (on pg2 of this topic) ..... viewtopic.php?f=8&t=15977&p=487178&hili ... ux#p487178

Leave the spare where it is and forget about two side by side tanks ... this issue has been raised here a few times (do a search) and is not a successful option. Filling and air-locks are a problem that doesn't go away ... you will also have to fit an independently operated fuel transfer pump. Rathe...

A 300mm lift is excessive and impractical besides the unnecessary problems and expense that you're going to encounter. A 90mm / 100mm lift doesn't require any further modification except maybe longer flexible brake lines in front, and is more than adequate, trust me ... unless you're looking for a s...

The lift shouldn't be too much of a problem, depends on what suspension is in there .... is it an SFA i.e. a solid front axle (beam axle) or IFS i.e. independent front suspension. SFA is easy ... leaf springs front and back .... just swap out the leaf packs and ideally shocks with a longer travel. I...

Here it is Wade

If you have one that has inlet / outlet on the wrong sides then simply mount it upside down. It wont affect the functionality of the valve, just makes cable connection a bit awkward.

I hope that the valve control cable is still there ... expensive from agents. You could make one up if needs be ... must be the solid wire core, not braided.

Just a premature suggestion, (depending on what you do or don't find), if you need a valve, just get a VW Golf one from Goldwagen ... cheapest option and they work very well. You may just have to make a new screw hole in the firewall to mount it .... needs at least two screws and the original hole w...

There should definitely be a valve for water flow. There are two components, the flap which controls air flow from outside and the valve that opens / closes water flow to the heater core. Both of these are normally cable operated but in later model vehicles the flap is often controlled by electrical...

Is the heater valve opening and closing as it should? After being closed for a long period of time it could very well be stuck. That's the first thing I would check. If that's working as it should then disconnect the pipe from the valve on the motor side and start the motor to see if water is indeed...

Any feedback here?

Hi and welcome Daniel. A most unusual problem that I've not come across before. It sounds to me like there might be some diff "wind-up". Of course this is just a guess, but it can occur if there has been a diff replacement of an incorrect diff ratio (do you know the history of the vehicle?...

Just bear in mind that wherever you might need to make a hole for wiring, That you fit a rubber grommet so that there won't be chaffing of the insulation over time. The battery cables are quite thick so I would make two separate holes, one for each cable ... you will also get a good seal that way, w...

Hi Kathy and welcome. An interesting question to which I cannot give you a ready answer but maybe someone out there has done / tried this before and can give some definitive advice. What I will say is that which comes to mind and the first thing is whether you want to use the old bell housing and cl...

Some creative wiring going on there for sure .... they should definitely not be bridged as that would probably create a dead short .... could be that the black earth wire has been "re-purposed" as a feed to something else or there was some kind of relay that has been by-passed. You would h...

The sub assemblies should be the same and most likely the head as well. Things to watch out for are: • as Eric said, the sumps can be different which would mean that the oil pick-ups would also differ, but those are usually straight forward swaps with your existing motor ... just make sure that the ...

Hi Doug. A very strange and unusual problem indeed. I'm not very familiar with later model Hilux's ... still old school SFA. So I'm taking a complete shot in the dark here when I say that this sounds to me more like an intermittent electrical issue rather than a mechanical one. Mechanical problems a...

If you don't come right there then try Mayfair.

Check pic format and size ??? ... should be 800 x 600 .jpg Just a thought.

Welcome back Francisco !!

Midas and Autoboys used to keep generic stock.

Glad to hear that you got it sorted. :thumbup: Just keep it in mind should you start experiencing similar symptoms again. If it has happened once, it can happen again .... especially if there is excessive wear or damage on any of the brake mechanism components in the drum. It may however just be an ...

Hi and welcome. If your brakes are binding, first thing is to check out which wheel/s are getting hot, if any. Walk around the vehicle after a short drive and feel all the hubs for heat. If none of them are getting hot then it's more likely to be the rear and could be related to the parking brake me...

It could also be a warped brake disc. Not altogether uncommon. Happens if the disc is hot from heavy braking and then gets splashed with cold water. In such cases the warp is not readily seen by eye, but if it's there, the caliper which is static will force the steering to jerk back and fro.

Anything s possible with the right tools (big hammer). :laugh2: If you're considering fitting one to the '86 hilux, forget it ..... unless you really want to empty the bank account. The torque and power is way too much for the old drive train. You would have to replace it all and then what do you do...

More than anything else mentioned, this sounds more like a tyre / wheel problem. Is one of the rims perhaps buckled / out of true? Are the front rims both seated properly?

The later models that have electric engagement make use of an ADD (Automatic Diff De-coupler) on the front diff. The problem you're having is usually a poor connection or the ADD unit is gummed up. Cleaning up the connections would be the first thing to check and at the same time to verify that ther...

My memory fails me at this point but there have been threads here in the past that address this issue. Just do a search. Hope you come right.

Sounds like syncro's are worn. Sometimes changing the gear oil viscosity helps.

When I was with the military in SWA and Angola we used to do continuous eight hour (plus) runs through that soft sand with unimogs, buffels, hippo's, elands and samils ...... all diesels with wheels, not tracks .... in 30°+. And those things were heavy as well. No problems and I seriously doubt that...

You can replace with the booster from the KZ shape. If memory serves correctly you have to drill one or two new holes for the mounting bolts against the fire-wall. You would also have to use the KZ type master cylinder ... the old one wont fit the booster. Braking is also improved a bit by doing thi...

It does sound like it's a valve problem. 300K kilo's is nothing for those motors, so an engine replacement is not even a reasonable option. Other possibilities for compression loss are that there is a crack in the head or the head gasket is blown on that cylinder, both of which are unlikely if you'r...

Start up problems are mostly glow plug related but this doesn't explain it cutting out on you. It is however possible that the cutting out and the starting problems are two unrelated problems. Incorrect fuelling could also be a possibility. Have you noticed any unusual smoking at the exhaust? I woul...

Good to hear that Rudi. Hope that the problem is solved now.

I'm not a fundi with EFI but I assume from your map that you're not making use of a cold start valve. In such a case cold start fuel enrichment is done through the injectors. Those values could be either too low or even too high. What one could maybe try is manual priming by pouring a small cap full...

Found my old write-up here ...... viewtopic.php?f=3&t=28052&p=331711

Sounds like it's the rear springs from what you're saying but also bear in mind that if the front springs are unevenly sprung then the rear will also be out. You can check and eliminate that possibility by jacking up the rear ... must be a central jacking point like the diff. If the front stands lev...

Take it to Dylan at Alex Motors (old Cambridge goods sheds area). He had one of those models himself and knows them pretty well.

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