Canon camera zoom lenses

Being out in nature you just canot help taking photographs. All of us aren't professional photographers so don't be shy to show of your pictures here. Ask questions on how to improve your photography or what camera to buy. Somebody will be able to assist you.
Post Reply
User avatar
jacques kotze
Monster Truck
Monster Truck
Posts: 3640
Joined: Mon Jan 05, 2009 8:51 am
Town: Nelspruit
Vehicle: 2,8 4x4 Auto Fortuner. 2,8 4x4 Hilux singlecab.
Real Name: Jacques
Contact:

Thu Mar 01, 2012 2:33 pm

As I said in the "camera" topic, I'm interested in this Sigma lens:


Sigma 120-400mm F4.5-5.6 DG OS HSM for Canon »
This heavyweight, 1750g lens is designed exclusively for full-frame Canon SLRs (most top range) and is compatible with APS-C size sensor Canon SLRs as well.

Specifications

35mm equivalent focal length range: 192-640mm
Lens perspective: High powered telephoto
Minimum aperture: f22
Image stabilisation: Lens stabilisation
Hyper-Sonic motor: Yes
Special lens elements: 3 SLD glass
Filter size: 77mm
Weight: 1750g
Dimensions: 92.5 x 203.5
Maximum magnification: 1:4.2
Recommended applications: Field-based sports

Or if the money allows it, This one maybe. The experts can please give me some comments if this is a good lens for the price or not.

This High powered telephoto zoom lens is ideal for field sports and wildlife photography and is powered by Sigma’s HSM (Hyper Sonic Motor) for a quiet and high-speed AF as well as full-time manual focusing capability. It incorporates Sigma’s Optical Stabilisation Technology to combat blur caused by camera shake, and with its SLD (Super Low Dispersion) glass and Super multi-layer coating, flare and ghosting is reduced.

The addition of a 1.4x EX DG APO or 2x EX DG APO Tele Converters, produces a 210-700mm F7-9 MF ultra-telephoto zoom lens or a 300-1000mm F10-13 MF ultra-telephoto zoom lens respectively.

Calculate delivery time and charge on this product

User avatar
GI Jane
Monster Truck
Monster Truck
Posts: 4056
Joined: Mon May 16, 2011 4:07 pm
Town: Strand WC
Vehicle: Toyota Hilux 4x4, 2.41t Raider 1998 DC - front & rear difflock, 140lt fuel tank, 31" BFG a/t, snorkel, drawer system, alucab canopy, driver with attitude.
Real Name: Val
Club VHF Licence: X112

Thu Mar 01, 2012 3:25 pm

I don't know anything about that particular lens so can't comment on it. But I hope that what I write is helpful before you splash out on a lens

When I am interested in a lens I normally have a good look on websites to see what the write-ups are by a lot of different individuals and camera specialists and to see what tests have been conducted on the lens. What I would do is a comparison between the write ups on a Cannon 100-400mm and the Sigma lens. There is tons of information out there and there are conflicting opinions but you can still get some pretty good feedback.

Many people believe that the lens is more important than the camera body itself. I tend to agree with them. If you have a good camera body and you use a bad lens nothing you do can improve the picture until you replace it with another lens.

When I was still using film camera's I once bought a 100-400mm telephoto sigma lens and was bitterly disappointed with the quality of the photographs I got with it. A lot could have improved since then, but that was my experience. I am not knocking Sigma lenses, because I am led to believe that there are some lenses in their range which are very good and well priced in comparison to a Cannon or Nikon lens. In my experience the couple of extra rand and in some cases quite a bit more, can result in a photograph you will want to keep and some you will never be able to keep....

I would also have a good read about the converters.... You may be able to get away with some serious telephoto shots but most of them require manual focusing and that may be a problem if speed is needed for a shot....

Before you spend any of your hard earned money on a lens do a lot of reading.... it is very difficult to get rid of a bad lens once you have paid a lot of money for it because most people will have done their homework before buying a lens...

This is not to put you off, because as I said I don't know that particular lens nor have I read up about it....but after my experience with a lot of lenses, I would rather do without a lens for a while until I have can afford to buy the best one that can really do the job I want it to...

Hopefully there is someone on the forum that does have that particular lens and can give you feedback on it...

Sjoe reading through what I've written it sounds serious, but I would hate you to spend a lot of money and then not get the result you want.... :blink: :blink: :blink:
Image

User avatar
jacques kotze
Monster Truck
Monster Truck
Posts: 3640
Joined: Mon Jan 05, 2009 8:51 am
Town: Nelspruit
Vehicle: 2,8 4x4 Auto Fortuner. 2,8 4x4 Hilux singlecab.
Real Name: Jacques
Contact:

Thu Mar 01, 2012 3:46 pm

Thanks Val, can you explain to me some of the following found on lenses. DG, OS, HSM and SLD Glass, and what is a L lens, I know it is mostly manufactured with a white body. I know USM stand for Ultrasonic motor or something like that and IS stand for image stabilizer. And some is written III and II on, what dose that stand for? And also1.4x EX DG APO or 2x EX DG APO
Thanks Val.

ROBERT
LR 4WD Rear Locker
LR 4WD Rear Locker
Posts: 269
Joined: Fri Feb 20, 2009 9:46 am
Town: Pretoria
Vehicle: 2002 D/C KZTE 4x4
Real Name: Robert

Thu Mar 01, 2012 4:02 pm

Hi Jacques,
the most impoetant thing to remeber is that it doesnt matter how good your camera is, if you havee an inferior lense it will take inferior photos, thaat said sigma is one of the better makes of lens, I have 17-70sigma which is pin sharp, I also have sigma 50-500mm which isn't sharp at its extremes, this can be a frustration. If you can afford it I would find a 100-400mm canon lens, (there are sometimes some good ones for sale on outdoor photo).
as for the Acronynms.

DG-optimised for digital cameras, there sensor sits a litle bit further back than conventional film
OS- optically stabilised (lens has a built in anti shake function)
HSM- High speed motor, ( the auto focus motor are quick and qiuet)
SLD- Special low distortion glass
EX- canons designation for a certain range of lenses
1.4x or 2.0x stand for the extra magnification should you put a converter betwwen the lens and camera (with most converters u lose the auto focus function.
APO=apochromatic lens (apo), is a photographic or other lens that has better correction of chromatic and spherical aberration than the much more common achromat lenses.
Image

User avatar
GI Jane
Monster Truck
Monster Truck
Posts: 4056
Joined: Mon May 16, 2011 4:07 pm
Town: Strand WC
Vehicle: Toyota Hilux 4x4, 2.41t Raider 1998 DC - front & rear difflock, 140lt fuel tank, 31" BFG a/t, snorkel, drawer system, alucab canopy, driver with attitude.
Real Name: Val
Club VHF Licence: X112

Thu Mar 01, 2012 4:35 pm

This is a good explanation of the role of image stabilisers http://usa.canon.com/cusa/consumer/stan ... vantage_IS" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;. I still prefer to use a tripod in cases where I can and particularly in long focal distances because don't think that IS can always control the camera shake sufficiently...
Image

User avatar
jacques kotze
Monster Truck
Monster Truck
Posts: 3640
Joined: Mon Jan 05, 2009 8:51 am
Town: Nelspruit
Vehicle: 2,8 4x4 Auto Fortuner. 2,8 4x4 Hilux singlecab.
Real Name: Jacques
Contact:

Thu Mar 01, 2012 6:13 pm

Thanks Val, If you have to buy a lens now,up to 300mm mainly for wildlife and nature pics(sunset, mountains etc.) and you have a budget of lets say about R6000 - R8000, what will you buy?

User avatar
ChrisF
Top Web Wheeler
Top Web Wheeler
Posts: 8280
Joined: Thu Sep 17, 2009 2:56 pm
Town: inniedorp
Vehicle: Toy
Real Name: Chris

Thu Mar 01, 2012 6:43 pm

Jacques have a look on the Outdoorphoto shop website (part of the Outdoorphoto forum) :
http://www.outdoorphotoshop.co.za/categ ... egoryID=88" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Canon EF 100-300 USM at R3 255
Canon EF 70 - 300 mm f 4.0 - 5.6 IS USM R 5 115 (a friend has one of these, pretty good value for money)

Both these are NOT "L" lenses, thus the low price.

The top of the line lenses in the Canon range are all "L" lenses. Thus this refers to top of the line glass, as well as superior quality construction. Also note that "L" lense fit on the "full frame" cameras, ie the 5D and 1D, where the other USM lenses does not. BUT, the L lenses also fits on the cropped sensor bodies.



As for SIGMA lenses .... Let's say Canon lense are the Mercs of the lens world, and SIGMA is the AUDI of the lens world ... surely not bad, even a couple of nice ones, yet not in the same league as the Canon lenses.


Having said that, I may very well buy myself a Sigma 300-800mm lens if my ship ever comes in. At an "affordable" R80k it competes with Canon lenses of R150k !! But Canon does not have lens with this same range so it is actually impossible to make a true comparison. I have seen pictures taken by this lens ... WOW !!! BUT, this is one MASSIVE lens !! It will physically NOT fit in the front of a single cab bakkie !!

User avatar
jacques kotze
Monster Truck
Monster Truck
Posts: 3640
Joined: Mon Jan 05, 2009 8:51 am
Town: Nelspruit
Vehicle: 2,8 4x4 Auto Fortuner. 2,8 4x4 Hilux singlecab.
Real Name: Jacques
Contact:

Thu Mar 01, 2012 7:10 pm

Thanks Chris, when you say "full frame" witch mine is not, I have the 600D, what is mine then? I've read something about a crop factor of 1.6, does this got something to do with it? What is crop factor anyway?

User avatar
ChrisF
Top Web Wheeler
Top Web Wheeler
Posts: 8280
Joined: Thu Sep 17, 2009 2:56 pm
Town: inniedorp
Vehicle: Toy
Real Name: Chris

Thu Mar 01, 2012 8:58 pm

Most camera terminology dates back to the days of film camera - before my time. :)

The old film SLR cameras used 35mm films. this had a specific width and height size. To this day electronic sensors are measured to this standard.

Most Canon SLR cameras (all but the 5D and 1D) has a cropped sensor. this just means that the sensor is smaller than the old 35mm reference. The ratio of this size difference is 1,6 - for Canon. For Nikon the ratio is 1,5. And just to remind you that there are alwyas exceptions, there are 2 models of the 1D Canon camera. The one has a 1,3 crop ratio.


now this crop ratio has another side effect - it affects the lens length. A 100mm lens on a cropped sensor Canon will have the same effective focal length as a 160 mm lens on a full sensor Canon camera. So if I put my 200mm lens on my 5D it has an actual focal length of 200mm. Should I now put this lens on my 7D it now has an effective focal length of 320mm.

This is one of the reasons the 7D is so popular under wild life photographers - longer reach with the most features of any of the cropped sensor cameras.



PS - I was using laymans terms, and the purists will spot a few issues with this post. but this should help you to understand the gest of crop factor.

User avatar
jacques kotze
Monster Truck
Monster Truck
Posts: 3640
Joined: Mon Jan 05, 2009 8:51 am
Town: Nelspruit
Vehicle: 2,8 4x4 Auto Fortuner. 2,8 4x4 Hilux singlecab.
Real Name: Jacques
Contact:

Thu Mar 01, 2012 9:21 pm

Thanks Chris, much appreciated, I have a much better understanding of some of the D600 witch I didn't no/understand before.
I will ask more questions as I go along. O, and I had a look at the link you posted, I think the lens for R5 115.00 is the one to go for.
So I take it, the 1.6 factor is a good thing thing then. :thumbup:

User avatar
ChrisF
Top Web Wheeler
Top Web Wheeler
Posts: 8280
Joined: Thu Sep 17, 2009 2:56 pm
Town: inniedorp
Vehicle: Toy
Real Name: Chris

Thu Mar 01, 2012 9:41 pm

unless you go for the 5D or 1D you will have to live with the 1,6 crop.

I opted for a 7D - due to the 1,6 reach as well as the high frames per second rate. NICE for action shots as well as objects where zoom is required.

But I also got the 5D - due to the larger sensor (no crop) the quality is just so much better. but it is too slow for the action shots



Jacques this game is just as "bad" as 4x4's .... A short wheel base with lockers WILL kick but on most obstacles, BUT for overlanding you wnat something different. With cameras the "perfect kit" is totally dependant on what you want to do with it.



The 500D and that lens is an excellent kit. as you find your field of speciality you will migrate to a different kit ...




PS - I only have just more than 1 years experience with this stuff, so please dont base your final desicion just on what I say .... :)

User avatar
jacques kotze
Monster Truck
Monster Truck
Posts: 3640
Joined: Mon Jan 05, 2009 8:51 am
Town: Nelspruit
Vehicle: 2,8 4x4 Auto Fortuner. 2,8 4x4 Hilux singlecab.
Real Name: Jacques
Contact:

Thu Mar 01, 2012 10:04 pm

Thanks Chris, Don't worry, I won't hold you or anyone else responsible if I by the wrong gear!

User avatar
GI Jane
Monster Truck
Monster Truck
Posts: 4056
Joined: Mon May 16, 2011 4:07 pm
Town: Strand WC
Vehicle: Toyota Hilux 4x4, 2.41t Raider 1998 DC - front & rear difflock, 140lt fuel tank, 31" BFG a/t, snorkel, drawer system, alucab canopy, driver with attitude.
Real Name: Val
Club VHF Licence: X112

Fri Mar 02, 2012 6:17 am

Hey Jacques, You seem to be getting sorted... Different lenses, work for different types of photography... so work out what you want to photograph and buy the lenses to go as you can... always try and buy the best qualilty that your budget allows... Good luck with the photographs.. and there is no end to it if you get hooked
Image

User avatar
jacques kotze
Monster Truck
Monster Truck
Posts: 3640
Joined: Mon Jan 05, 2009 8:51 am
Town: Nelspruit
Vehicle: 2,8 4x4 Auto Fortuner. 2,8 4x4 Hilux singlecab.
Real Name: Jacques
Contact:

Fri Mar 02, 2012 6:46 am

I'm starting to see some light here, It makes a huge difference if you know the acronyms in the camera "language" Now when I read something I know at least what I'm reading and it all makes more sense.

But don't go to far, there will be much more questions to come :thumbup: :thumbup:

User avatar
GI Jane
Monster Truck
Monster Truck
Posts: 4056
Joined: Mon May 16, 2011 4:07 pm
Town: Strand WC
Vehicle: Toyota Hilux 4x4, 2.41t Raider 1998 DC - front & rear difflock, 140lt fuel tank, 31" BFG a/t, snorkel, drawer system, alucab canopy, driver with attitude.
Real Name: Val
Club VHF Licence: X112

Fri Mar 02, 2012 6:53 am

I'm off to take photo's at Kambati near Swellendam this weekend. It's the Burger show and Extreme 4x4 and Hoppy and JP are driving in it.. So won't be on the forum this weekend. Back on Sunday late afternoon.... Got up early to hitch the trailer and pack the last bit of stuff to hit the road relatively early... But keep reading the different sites... there is tons of information out there to help you make your decisions and also a lot of photographers and photography enthusiasts on the forum...
Image

User avatar
jacques kotze
Monster Truck
Monster Truck
Posts: 3640
Joined: Mon Jan 05, 2009 8:51 am
Town: Nelspruit
Vehicle: 2,8 4x4 Auto Fortuner. 2,8 4x4 Hilux singlecab.
Real Name: Jacques
Contact:

Fri Mar 02, 2012 7:37 am

Thanks Val, enjoy!!

User avatar
ChrisF
Top Web Wheeler
Top Web Wheeler
Posts: 8280
Joined: Thu Sep 17, 2009 2:56 pm
Town: inniedorp
Vehicle: Toy
Real Name: Chris

Fri Mar 02, 2012 7:07 pm

uhm ja ... it does not stop ......

Went as far as cutting up a 2nd hand console to make space for the cameras .....
Attachments
21 (Small).jpg

User avatar
jacques kotze
Monster Truck
Monster Truck
Posts: 3640
Joined: Mon Jan 05, 2009 8:51 am
Town: Nelspruit
Vehicle: 2,8 4x4 Auto Fortuner. 2,8 4x4 Hilux singlecab.
Real Name: Jacques
Contact:

Fri Mar 02, 2012 7:43 pm

Jis Chris, dit lyk of hulle die ding kan doen. . . eendag as ek groot is met n regte werk dan sal ek ook vir my sulke lensies aanskaf. . maar ek het nog n happie om te gaan voor ek daar is.

Help my reg asb, is ek reg as ek se dat hoe laer die f stop is hoe beter is die lens? Soos bv n f2 is beter as n f 5 - 6.2. En nog n ding, hoekom is dit f 5 - 6.2, is ek reg as ek se dat n lens van bv 70 - 300mm met n f 5 - 6.2 soos volg werk. As die lens op 70mm gestel is dan is die f op 5, en as die lens op 300mm gestel is dan is die f stop op 6.2? het ek dit reg, hoop jy verstaan wat ek probeer skryf het. :wth:

User avatar
ChrisF
Top Web Wheeler
Top Web Wheeler
Posts: 8280
Joined: Thu Sep 17, 2009 2:56 pm
Town: inniedorp
Vehicle: Toy
Real Name: Chris

Fri Mar 02, 2012 9:06 pm

Jacques met moderne fotografie is daar DRIE groot opsies met die verstellings. die kombinasie van die verstellings maak dit moontlik om verskillende fotos te neem.

1) TYD (Tv) - n VINNIGE foto is lekker "skerp" en vries alle beweging.

Maar party keer wil mens JUIS die beweging "wys" - soos wanneer jy die Tv bietjie stadiger stel en die kamera "pan". Nou beweeg jy die kamera van kant tot kant dat dit net so vinnig beweeg soos n motor, dus is die motor "stil" en in fokus, maar die agtergrond is geblur. As jy die tyd reg stel kan jy dan selfs kry dat die motor in skerp fokus is, die agtergrond geblur EN dat die wiele n bietjie draai en WYS dat daar beweging is.

MAAR, tyd bepaal ook hoeveel lig inkom. te min en die foto is "under exposed" (donker), te lank oop en die foto is "blown out/over exposed".

2) Aperture (Av) - dis nou die "f" waarde. die kamera kyk deur n "gat" (aperture) om die foto te neem. Die gat se grote is n funksie van die f waarde. n KLEIN aperture het n GROOT waarde, bv f22. net so, n klein f waarde soos f4 beteken n GROOT opening/aperture. f 2,8 in nog groter en 1,2 BAIE GROOT. Natuurlik beteken die groter opening ook dat die lens se diameter groter is (wel meestal, eintlik is die waarde n funksie van die lens LENGTE en gat groote... maar nou raak ek heeltemaal te tegnies, wil net uitwys dat ek dit oor-vereenvoudig)

dit maak natuurlik ook sin dat n "groter gat" (lae f waarde) meer lig inlaat. So ook laat n kleiner gat minder lig in. Dus - n f5,6 lens sal n sekere tyd nodig hê vir n sekere foto, maar n f4 foto sal die HELFTE die tyd nodig hê vir die foto, weer die helfte minder vir n f2,8. Dus hoekom hulle verwys na n f2,8 lens as n vinnige lens ....

MAAR in die wereld is niks heeltemaal so eenvoudig nie - die f waardes het ook ander gevolge. n LAE f waarde lei tot n "narrow depth of field", dis nou waar net n "kort stukkie" in fokus is en die res uit fokus. Net so gebruik mens liewer n hoër f waarde vir landscapes, juis om die "depth of field" groter te maak en als in fokus te hou.

Dis hoekom die Av funksie daar is, juis sodat jy kan speel met die depth of field ......

die probleem is dat die tyd en aperture so soort van teen mekaar werk - wanneer jy die f waarde stel na n groter waarde, dus kleiner gat, dus minder lig, MOET die tyd langer gestel word sodat die foto steeds genoeg lig kry. Maar daar kom n punt wat die tyd so lank raak dat dit niet nie meer prakties is nie ....

3) ISO - normaalweg word fotos geneem met n ISO waarde van 100. n groter ISO waarde help ir die kere waar daar te min lig is om die tyd weer af te bring. In die vorige voorbeel kon jy die ISO opvat na 400 om die tyd 4 keer te verkort, terwyl jy steeds die groot f waarde gebruik.


die interaksie tussen die drie items staan ook bekend as die "light triangle"



Skuus jy het n vraag gevra - die f waarde op die lens is die LAAGSTE f waarde van daai lens, dus die grootste lens opening. So as jy n 70-200mm lens vergelyk en die een is f4 en die ander f2,8 beteken dit dat die 2,8 BAIE beter is in lae lig toestande, dus die drastiese prys styging.

Wanneer n lens n f waarde van 4-5,6 het beteken dit dat die lens op sy KORT afstand (70mm) n f waarde het van 4, maar soos jy zoom tot 200mm verander die LAAGSTE f waarde tot 5,6. Die tipe lense is ook drasties goedkoper as die lense wat n konstante f waarde het deur die hele "focal range".


In fotografie praat hulle van "stops" - van f4 tot f5,6 is n "full stop" (moderne kameras laat jou toe om in "third stops" te stel). Elke "stop" halveer(of verdubbel) die tyd (of die hoeveelheid lig wat ingelaat word)

User avatar
ChrisF
Top Web Wheeler
Top Web Wheeler
Posts: 8280
Joined: Thu Sep 17, 2009 2:56 pm
Town: inniedorp
Vehicle: Toy
Real Name: Chris

Fri Mar 02, 2012 9:13 pm

nog n tip terwyl ek nou so sit en gorrel ....

Die vinnigste tyd vir n lens is "1/die lens lengte".

dus as jy n 100mm lens gebruik moet nie die tyd vinniger stel as 1/100 sekonde nie.

so hoe langer die lens, hoe vinniger is die stadigste tyd wat jy kan gebruik.

Die reel is vir "hand held" fotos.

MAAR, sodra jy die kamera op n tri-pos sit kan jy die tyd so lank stel as wat jy wil.

User avatar
jacques kotze
Monster Truck
Monster Truck
Posts: 3640
Joined: Mon Jan 05, 2009 8:51 am
Town: Nelspruit
Vehicle: 2,8 4x4 Auto Fortuner. 2,8 4x4 Hilux singlecab.
Real Name: Jacques
Contact:

Fri Mar 02, 2012 9:30 pm

Jislaaik, dis baie inligting, ek sal eers n rukkie nodig he om dit te absorbeer, maar dankie, ek moet al die goed weet anders kan ek maar net sowel n muk en druk gekoop het. . . .ek gaan nou so rukkie leer!

User avatar
ChrisF
Top Web Wheeler
Top Web Wheeler
Posts: 8280
Joined: Thu Sep 17, 2009 2:56 pm
Town: inniedorp
Vehicle: Toy
Real Name: Chris

Fri Mar 02, 2012 9:53 pm

dit help om "als" te weet.

Maar speel met EEN ding op n slag.

Gelukkig is dit MAKLIK met die Tv en Av knoppie.

Sit die water sproeier aan en sit die kamera op Tv - stel nou die kamera VINNIG, en neem n foto - jy behoort elke water drupple te vries in die lug. Stel die tyd bietjie stadiger en neem nog n foto, en weer en weer en weer .... Later sal jy n tripod nodig hê, of die kamera op n bean bag moet rus, maar jy gaan eindig met n foto waard ie water een melkerige "golf" form.

Gaan sit nou naby jou blomme in die tuin, en sit die kamera of Av. f 16 en neem n foto, een stop af en nog n foto, en weer en weer en weer. tot jy op die laagste stelling is. Kyk na die fotos, in die eerste behoort ALS in fokus te wees van die blom tot die bos tot die grens muur. op die laagste f stelling sal slegs n gedeelte van die blom in fokus wees, met die res ge-blur.



begin ou rond kyk na fotos in boeke - kyk na die effek wat hulle skep.
- trou tafel met "iets" in fokus en die res sagter (uit fokus)
- bruid in fokus en die bruidegom wat klein bietjie "Sagter" is
- fotos waar beweging gedeeltelik gevries word .....


Vir nou los die ISO op automaties, dan kan jy lekker speel met Av en Tv terwyl die kamera die moeilike dink werk vir jou doen.


Volgende stap sal wees om doelbewus the EXIF data van fotos te bestudeer - dit is die elektronies inligting wat gekoppel is aan elke foto. Dit vertel die storie van watter "settings" gebruik was vir n foto ....

Ek hou baie van die artikels/fotos in WEG tydskruf waar die fotgraaf basiese inligting verskaf oor HOE daai foto geneem is.


Wens ons was nader aan mekaar, dan kon ons lekker saam gaan fotos neem het ....

User avatar
jacques kotze
Monster Truck
Monster Truck
Posts: 3640
Joined: Mon Jan 05, 2009 8:51 am
Town: Nelspruit
Vehicle: 2,8 4x4 Auto Fortuner. 2,8 4x4 Hilux singlecab.
Real Name: Jacques
Contact:

Fri Mar 02, 2012 10:09 pm

ChrisF wrote:dit help om "als" te weet.

Maar speel met EEN ding op n slag.

Gelukkig is dit MAKLIK met die Tv en Av knoppie.

Sit die water sproeier aan en sit die kamera op Tv - stel nou die kamera VINNIG, en neem n foto - jy behoort elke water drupple te vries in die lug. Stel die tyd bietjie stadiger en neem nog n foto, en weer en weer en weer .... Later sal jy n tripod nodig hê, of die kamera op n bean bag moet rus, maar jy gaan eindig met n foto waard ie water een melkerige "golf" form.

Gaan sit nou naby jou blomme in die tuin, en sit die kamera of Av. f 16 en neem n foto, een stop af en nog n foto, en weer en weer en weer. tot jy op die laagste stelling is. Kyk na die fotos, in die eerste behoort ALS in fokus te wees van die blom tot die bos tot die grens muur. op die laagste f stelling sal slegs n gedeelte van die blom in fokus wees, met die res ge-blur.



begin ou rond kyk na fotos in boeke - kyk na die effek wat hulle skep.
- trou tafel met "iets" in fokus en die res sagter (uit fokus)
- bruid in fokus en die bruidegom wat klein bietjie "Sagter" is
- fotos waar beweging gedeeltelik gevries word .....


Vir nou los die ISO op automaties, dan kan jy lekker speel met Av en Tv terwyl die kamera die moeilike dink werk vir jou doen.


Volgende stap sal wees om doelbewus the EXIF data van fotos te bestudeer - dit is die elektronies inligting wat gekoppel is aan elke foto. Dit vertel die storie van watter "settings" gebruik was vir n foto ....

Ek hou baie van die artikels/fotos in WEG tydskruf waar die fotgraaf basiese inligting verskaf oor HOE daai foto geneem is.


Wens ons was nader aan mekaar, dan kon ons lekker saam gaan fotos neem het ....
Jislaaik nou is ek sommer spuit dis al donker en slaap tyd, is nou mal lus vir foto's neem soos jy beduie het. Jy kan maar bly wees ek en jy bly ver van mekaar af, ek sou jou mal gehad het :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Dankie vir jou tyd om als so stap vir stap aan my te verduidelik, ek waardeer dit opreg. Ek gaan nou slaap sodat dit vinneger kan lug word. :dance1:

User avatar
ChrisF
Top Web Wheeler
Top Web Wheeler
Posts: 8280
Joined: Thu Sep 17, 2009 2:56 pm
Town: inniedorp
Vehicle: Toy
Real Name: Chris

Fri Mar 02, 2012 10:13 pm

goeie oefening vir my .. ek gaan volgende Donderdag en Saterdag vir n opvolg fotografie kurses. Komposisie, kleure, beligting (off camre lighting) Lightroom workflow ....

MENS ek sien uit daarna ..... :)

So die thread het my nou self baie opgewonde.

Ek will more deur n paar videos sit en werk wat van die onderwerpe hanteer, so bietjie voorbereiding ....

User avatar
jacques kotze
Monster Truck
Monster Truck
Posts: 3640
Joined: Mon Jan 05, 2009 8:51 am
Town: Nelspruit
Vehicle: 2,8 4x4 Auto Fortuner. 2,8 4x4 Hilux singlecab.
Real Name: Jacques
Contact:

Sat Mar 03, 2012 8:12 am

Watse tipe kurses sal werk vir my as beginner, het jy maar self geleer of het jy ook maar kursusse gedoen?

User avatar
ChrisF
Top Web Wheeler
Top Web Wheeler
Posts: 8280
Joined: Thu Sep 17, 2009 2:56 pm
Town: inniedorp
Vehicle: Toy
Real Name: Chris

Sat Mar 03, 2012 8:23 am

Jacques vir die eerste 6 maande het ek myself net gefrustreer met die SLR. :(

Toe hoor ek van 2 profesionele fotograwe wat n 5 aand kurses aanbied. Een aand per week.

Die kursus het met die BASICS begin, ons was almal totale beginners in die klas.


maar daar is ook mos maar net soveel wat mens in so kort tydjie kan doen - die wat daar nou n opvolg is vir die wat hul fotografie n stappie verder wil neem


kyk op PSSA (photographic society of SA) se web tuiste vir n klub in jou area. Die klub se tuiste sal dan vir jou sê watter kursusse beskikbaar is in jou area

User avatar
jacques kotze
Monster Truck
Monster Truck
Posts: 3640
Joined: Mon Jan 05, 2009 8:51 am
Town: Nelspruit
Vehicle: 2,8 4x4 Auto Fortuner. 2,8 4x4 Hilux singlecab.
Real Name: Jacques
Contact:

Sat Mar 03, 2012 8:38 am

Dankie Chris, ek sal op hulle website gaan kyk, hier is n oom in ons gemeente wat my trou foto's ook geneem het wat aangebied het om my bietjie tou wys te maak, maar hy gebruik Nikon, sal seker nie so groot verskil maak nie. As ek na n "klas" toe wil gaan sal ek moet PTA toe, hier waar ek bly gaan niks aan nie, hier is darrem een verkeerslig in die dorp, en hy werk so af en toe.

User avatar
Polarbear2008
LR4WD, Lockers, Crawler Gears
LR4WD, Lockers, Crawler Gears
Posts: 1310
Joined: Sat Feb 28, 2009 1:43 pm
Town: Cape Town
Vehicle: 01 Hilux Kz-te 4x4 Raider d/c
Real Name: Theunis
Club VHF Licence: X49
Location: Durbanville, Cape Town

Sun Mar 04, 2012 10:16 am

Jacques

As jy verskillende lense en "kit" wil vergelyk gaan kyk op http://www.dpreveiw.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;. Hulle vergelyk "appels met apples" deur alle toerusting deur dieselfde toetste te sit, sodat jy dit "side by side" kan vergelyk.

Chirs

Waar het jy jou kursus gedoen, en wat het dit gekos? Ek bly ook in die Kaap en oorweeg so-iets.
01 Hilux 3.0L KZ-TE 4x4 Raider d/c
GME Gx300 29meg & Vertex VX2200 VHF radio
Mikem load springs with greasable shackles and polybushes
Monroe Gas Magnum shocks
Kumho Road Venture AT - 30x9.5x15
National Luna Dual battery system
Frontrunner roofrack with s/steel table
Twin rear high lift jack points
Hilux4x4club sticker! ('nuf said!)
Echo3 4x4 offroad trailer with NL 74 Litre Fridge/Freezer
Dual loadbox slides
Wishlist:
Alu canopy
Warn Winch
Unlimited Fuel & Travel Budget!

User avatar
jacques kotze
Monster Truck
Monster Truck
Posts: 3640
Joined: Mon Jan 05, 2009 8:51 am
Town: Nelspruit
Vehicle: 2,8 4x4 Auto Fortuner. 2,8 4x4 Hilux singlecab.
Real Name: Jacques
Contact:

Sun Mar 04, 2012 10:22 am

Dankie Theunis, ek sal gaan kyk wat daar aan gaan.

User avatar
jacques kotze
Monster Truck
Monster Truck
Posts: 3640
Joined: Mon Jan 05, 2009 8:51 am
Town: Nelspruit
Vehicle: 2,8 4x4 Auto Fortuner. 2,8 4x4 Hilux singlecab.
Real Name: Jacques
Contact:

Sun Mar 04, 2012 11:06 am

Theunis, help my reg hierso, as ek op daai site gaan waar jy gese het hulle doen die comparison op kamers en so aan, dan is daar n klomp links en dinge, waar gaan ek vandaar af, ek het op almal al ingegaan maar kan nie sien waar hulle die comparison doen nie.

User avatar
ChrisF
Top Web Wheeler
Top Web Wheeler
Posts: 8280
Joined: Thu Sep 17, 2009 2:56 pm
Town: inniedorp
Vehicle: Toy
Real Name: Chris

Sun Mar 04, 2012 11:15 am

Theunis die manne is sommer daar op jou stoep. :)

Justin en Andrew is beide profesionele fotograwe en ken hul storie.

Gaan loer bietjie hier:

http://www.shutterbugs.co.za" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

User avatar
Polarbear2008
LR4WD, Lockers, Crawler Gears
LR4WD, Lockers, Crawler Gears
Posts: 1310
Joined: Sat Feb 28, 2009 1:43 pm
Town: Cape Town
Vehicle: 01 Hilux Kz-te 4x4 Raider d/c
Real Name: Theunis
Club VHF Licence: X49
Location: Durbanville, Cape Town

Sun Apr 15, 2012 10:09 pm

Jacques

Wat ek bedoel is dat elke stuk "kit" op dieselfde manier getoets word, so as jy na die toets "rapport" van een bv. kamera kyk, kan jy dit direk vergelyk met die "rapport" van 'n ander.

Hoop dit maak sin.
01 Hilux 3.0L KZ-TE 4x4 Raider d/c
GME Gx300 29meg & Vertex VX2200 VHF radio
Mikem load springs with greasable shackles and polybushes
Monroe Gas Magnum shocks
Kumho Road Venture AT - 30x9.5x15
National Luna Dual battery system
Frontrunner roofrack with s/steel table
Twin rear high lift jack points
Hilux4x4club sticker! ('nuf said!)
Echo3 4x4 offroad trailer with NL 74 Litre Fridge/Freezer
Dual loadbox slides
Wishlist:
Alu canopy
Warn Winch
Unlimited Fuel & Travel Budget!

User avatar
jacques kotze
Monster Truck
Monster Truck
Posts: 3640
Joined: Mon Jan 05, 2009 8:51 am
Town: Nelspruit
Vehicle: 2,8 4x4 Auto Fortuner. 2,8 4x4 Hilux singlecab.
Real Name: Jacques
Contact:

Mon Apr 16, 2012 8:09 am

Polarbear2008 wrote:Jacques

Wat ek bedoel is dat elke stuk "kit" op dieselfde manier getoets word, so as jy na die toets "rapport" van een bv. kamera kyk, kan jy dit direk vergelyk met die "rapport" van 'n ander.

Hoop dit maak sin.
Dankie, het so agter gekom na n ruk. Dankie vir die info :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

User avatar
niclemaitre
LR 4WD Full Lockers
LR 4WD Full Lockers
Posts: 696
Joined: Mon Jun 13, 2011 2:44 pm
Town: Stellenbosch
Vehicle: 87 DC 2.8D
Real Name: Nic
Location: Stellenbosch

Mon Apr 16, 2012 11:12 am

One of the best value for money photographic accessories that I have ever had is a small beanbag. You can use it anywhere to stabilize your camera, works very well for photos from a car or on rocks and is much faster to use than a tripod. About 15cmx15cmx2cm is perfect. Fill it with wheat kernels/maize kernels/or plastic BBs (then it will survive getting wet).
Happy trails
Nic

SFA '97 DC affirmatively shopped
SFA '87 DC "Rooies"

User avatar
jacques kotze
Monster Truck
Monster Truck
Posts: 3640
Joined: Mon Jan 05, 2009 8:51 am
Town: Nelspruit
Vehicle: 2,8 4x4 Auto Fortuner. 2,8 4x4 Hilux singlecab.
Real Name: Jacques
Contact:

Mon Apr 16, 2012 11:34 am

niclemaitre wrote:One of the best value for money photographic accessories that I have ever had is a small beanbag. You can use it anywhere to stabilize your camera, works very well for photos from a car or on rocks and is much faster to use than a tripod. About 15cmx15cmx2cm is perfect. Fill it with wheat kernels/maize kernels/or plastic BBs (then it will survive getting wet).
Good idea to put BB pellets in, will last longer than kernels :thumbup:

User avatar
george
Monster Truck
Monster Truck
Posts: 6604
Joined: Wed May 23, 2007 11:16 am
Town: Langebaan
Vehicle: Prado 90 VX 3.4 V6
Real Name: George
Club VHF Licence: HC107
Location: Langebaan
Contact:

Thu Apr 26, 2012 8:38 am

Hi Jacques. Hoe gaan dit nou met die 600D? Ek het ook sopas een gekry met die lense by en besef nou ek weet niks van fotos neem nie :oops:

Gaan 'n bietjie Chris se raad volg met die neem van water en so aan.

Chris jy is nie lus vir klas gee nie :?:
"The World is a book, and those who do not travel read only a page.-Saint Augustine"

User avatar
jacques kotze
Monster Truck
Monster Truck
Posts: 3640
Joined: Mon Jan 05, 2009 8:51 am
Town: Nelspruit
Vehicle: 2,8 4x4 Auto Fortuner. 2,8 4x4 Hilux singlecab.
Real Name: Jacques
Contact:

Thu Apr 26, 2012 8:47 am

george wrote:Hi Jacques. Hoe gaan dit nou met die 600D? Ek het ook sopas een gekry met die lense by en besef nou ek weet niks van fotos neem nie :oops:

Gaan 'n bietjie Chris se raad volg met die neem van water en so aan.

Chris jy is nie lus vir klas gee nie :?:
Nee dit gaan ok, ek sukkel maar aan so op my eie, dis die beste manier van leer. Jy kan gerus Chris se raad volg, dit het my baie gehelp. Jy kan vir G.I.Jane ook vra, sy help graag. :thumbup:

User avatar
george
Monster Truck
Monster Truck
Posts: 6604
Joined: Wed May 23, 2007 11:16 am
Town: Langebaan
Vehicle: Prado 90 VX 3.4 V6
Real Name: George
Club VHF Licence: HC107
Location: Langebaan
Contact:

Thu Apr 26, 2012 8:58 am

Wat se settings gebruik jy die meeste?
"The World is a book, and those who do not travel read only a page.-Saint Augustine"

User avatar
jacques kotze
Monster Truck
Monster Truck
Posts: 3640
Joined: Mon Jan 05, 2009 8:51 am
Town: Nelspruit
Vehicle: 2,8 4x4 Auto Fortuner. 2,8 4x4 Hilux singlecab.
Real Name: Jacques
Contact:

Thu Apr 26, 2012 9:24 am

Dit hang maar af, as ek vinnig wil neem dan sit ek hom op A+(die groen setting) maar dis net omdat ek nog nie al die settings goed ken nie, as ek my tyd vat dan sit ek hom op Tv, dan gee hy die effek van die voorwerp wat jy wil afneem is in fokus en die agtergrond is uit fokus. Ek persoonlik hou van so foto. As jy natuur soos berge, son opkoms/sak of enige landskap wil afneem dan sit ek hom gewoonlik op die setting met die berg op. Wat ek ook al gedoen het is om A-DEP setting te begin dan neem ek bv n boom af. Dan sit ek die volgende setting,M, en neem weer dieselfde boom af. So neem jy elke keer dieselfde boom af van dieselfde posisie af met elke setting op die kamera, so kan jy vergelyk en kyk watse setting werk vir watter tiepe foto jy wil neem. My manier is maar die dom manier, Chris en Val sal jou n makliker manier kan verduidelik.

User avatar
george
Monster Truck
Monster Truck
Posts: 6604
Joined: Wed May 23, 2007 11:16 am
Town: Langebaan
Vehicle: Prado 90 VX 3.4 V6
Real Name: George
Club VHF Licence: HC107
Location: Langebaan
Contact:

Thu Apr 26, 2012 9:32 am

jacques kotze wrote:Dit hang maar af, as ek vinnig wil neem dan sit ek hom op A+(die groen setting) maar dis net omdat ek nog nie al die settings goed ken nie, as ek my tyd vat dan sit ek hom op Tv, dan gee hy die effek van die voorwerp wat jy wil afneem is in fokus en die agtergrond is uit fokus. Ek persoonlik hou van so foto. As jy natuur soos berge, son opkoms/sak of enige landskap wil afneem dan sit ek hom gewoonlik op die setting met die berg op. Wat ek ook al gedoen het is om A-DEP setting te begin dan neem ek bv n boom af. Dan sit ek die volgende setting,M, en neem weer dieselfde boom af. So neem jy elke keer dieselfde boom af van dieselfde posisie af met elke setting op die kamera, so kan jy vergelyk en kyk watse setting werk vir watter tiepe foto jy wil neem. My manier is maar die dom manier, Chris en Val sal jou n makliker manier kan verduidelik.
Dankie Jacques sal so bietjie rondspeel.
Hier is a manual wat so 'n bietjie makliker lees
http://media.wiley.com/product_data/exc ... 19-129.pdf
"The World is a book, and those who do not travel read only a page.-Saint Augustine"

Post Reply

Return to “Photography”

  • Information
  • Who is online

    Users browsing this forum: No registered users