Torque Rod Bushing

[Tim86]

Looking for a torque rod bushing of any kind, or a rod with bushings in at a budget price, or an adjustable torque rod.

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Thanks!

[niclemaitre]

I think you may be able to get replacement poly bushings from Midas

[Tim86]

Obviously it depends on the establishment and salesperson, but I've found they don't even know what a torque rod is!! I shall give them all a proper sound out though.

[pampoen]

Tim is my suspicion that you might be doing an axle move right?

[Mud Dog]

There is very little chance that they have exactly the correct bush, so take the rod with you as well as an old bush and a bolt as a sample. You might find something oversized that can be cut or shaped to fit -preferably get the shock bushes that have the metal sleeve insert (with correct size for the bolt).

But now the question, why do you want to replace them .... they don't just give in that easily and very seldom ever need replacement.

[Bliksempie]

There is very little chance that they have exactly the correct bush, so take the rod with you as well as an old bush and a bolt as a sample. You might find something oversized that can be cut or shaped to fit -preferably get the shock bushes that have the metal sleeve insert (with correct size for the bolt).

But now the question, why do you want to replace them .... they don't just give in that easily and very seldom ever need replacement.

Andy,

Mine needs to be replaced as well. Darrell (Mikem) pointed that out to me. It makes a clunking noise when 4x4'ing

[Tim86]

Did that a while back Luke:)

Modded the drag link:

Andy my new truck was purchased without a rod installed so I pulled the one off my old truck. One of the bolts was so rusted onto the bush's internal metal tube that I had to use a power bar to turn it and the rubber sheared completely under the torque. I have been thinking along the same lines and have bought bits and pieces of poly bush and tube but thought I'd ask on the off-chance. The guys re-mold them with poly but you are looking at 400 bucks for one. 450 from stealers. To make one I would have to find two correct diameter poly's with a lip - like an enlarged shackle bushing, and insert either side. The lip will prevent the rod bush surround from grating against the diff & chassis brackets which is what I assume Bliksem is experiencing as his rubber is shot or departed from the inner tube. The previous owner and a number of other sfa owners with the rod removed say they experience no axle wrap under heavy breaking but I most certainly do, my brakes are good both sides and I doubt its just due to the fitment of 33's.

Also want to get the rod machined to make it adjustable, aftermarket OME on already and I plan on cold pressing the front leaves soon. These rods should have been extended and fitted to a pivot point back somewhere in line with the rear leaf shackle, the geometry doesn't work in my mind.

[niclemaitre]

I'm pretty sure that the company Midas get their poly bushings from make those torque rod bushings, I looked at them on their website some time ago, but I cannot now recall the name of the company

[Tim86]

Partquip or Ryan maybe??

Something like this:

polyurethane-replacement-engine-bracket-mount-bushing-kit-fit-for-honda-civic-96-00-ek-and-92.jpg

(18.68 KiB) Not downloaded yet

[Tim86]

Will go visit these guys

www.rpm.co.za

[Mud Dog]

These rods should have been extended and fitted to a pivot point back somewhere in line with the rear leaf shackle, the geometry doesn't work in my mind.

The geometry won't work if not mounted to the hanger-pin side - the flexing shackles would create too much of a variance.

[Tim86]

Ja sorry, extended forwards and fixed adjacent to front pin. Would negate most of the reduced articulation problem. I wonder if anyone has ever bothered to do this mod??

[Mud Dog]

I have often thought about this because the geometry does not appear to be correct when just looking at it. Every time I have to wonder what I'm missing -- surely the designing engineers with the thick coke-bottle glasses at Toyota couldn't have made a mistake .... did they make a compromise? .... is there more to this than meets a cursory inspection? ....

Then I think that the purpose is more about eliminating bump-steer than merely avoiding axle-wrap (which would also affect steer) - surely then the torque rod is intended to stop wrapping in relation to the arc of the drag-link rather than the arc of the leaf pack. When you look at the mounting and length of the rod in relation to the drag-link, this appears to make better geometric sense.

[Tim86]

If I had cross over I would not hesitate to weld on a new front bracket and extend the rod, maybe make one on either side to be pedantic;) - or one in the middle - I don't like the idea of my axle twisting the hell out of my leaves under heavy braking. Bigger wheels, throw in some Powerbrakes and you end up with not inconsiderable forces. The brake steer I get without the rod is quite unnerving as it is.

I do question the effectiveness of the rod in preventing bump steer - it feels as if the torque rod is 'fighting' the leaf pack.

[LouisZ]

There to keep your angle right of your diff relative to your prop shaft amongst others. Check without it where your prop shaft flange on the diff is showing when you jack it up. Lift the front up as high you can. Put thresles under the chassis and play with the jack up and down under your axle.

[dd6]

I bought Land Cruiser trailing arm poly bushes and had the outside machined down to fit the torque rod. I think the brand was Powertrac.

[JohanW]

adcomponents.co.za

Shipping is cheap and they are fast.

[niclemaitre]

Ah yes, that's them