Hilux 4x4 Forum

Hi my fuel gauge reading wont get to empty. Ive have ran my tank dry and got stuck. Any tip to fix it.




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The problem could be originating from the sender unit in the tank. That's where I would start unless this is a common problem with your model where the problem is with the electronics or the gauge itself.

New cluster. Don't take the tank out its the cluster

MCHILUX wrote:New cluster. Don't take the tank out its the cluster

Tnx. So i must replace the cluster unit.

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Yes common problem on them

Hello everyone, update on the issue the cluster was replaced and the issue is still there. My fuel gauge doesnt drop to empty level it gets stuck on quarter empty level. What else can cause this problem.

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As I said earlier, the problem could be originating from the sender unit in the tank. This is generally more common with older vehicles as the sender units are quite robust and take a long time to wear and develop problems, but if you're in the habit of riding with a ½ or ¼ tank of fuel rather than keeping it topped up, the fuel will sloshing about much more and the float swing-arm will also be more active, particularly in the lower range of the movement.

The way it works is there is a contactor that slides up and down over a winding on a plate as the float moves up and down, and this is where the wear takes place.

Unfortunately to check it you will have to remove it and that means dropping the tank.

I dont know if you still have this problem. Did you replace the cluster with brand new one or second hand one?
We have found that alot of these clusters give this problem. We have always just repaired the cluster and the problem was solved. If you got a second hand cluster, chances are good that it was already broken.

That looks like a cluster for a Vigo..yes?
Then it is easy.
Disconnect the 5-pin pump and guage connector at the tank.
Switch on the ignition.
Fuel guage must show E..for empty..as in nothing..all the way down.
If not - then it might be the cluster, or in some cases the harness (which I doubt).

On the 5-pin plug (harness side): short out pins 2 & 3.
Switch on the ignition.
It must now show F..full..

If the above tests correct, then only I will start looking at the sender unit.
Aikona take out tank yet..that is a murske job.
First I will try and find out the resistance measurements for the sender unit at pins 2 & 3.
..then do the testing with a multimeter.
At empty the measurement should be very close to open circuit.
At full something like 8 ohm or so.

Measurements not ok?
Well then...tank removal tools..check...case of beer..check...whole saturday gone...check...
lots of foreign vocabulary...check..

Vr2 Instruments wrote: ↑Wed Mar 01, 2017 7:47 am I dont know if you still have this problem. Did you replace the cluster with brand new one or second hand one?
We have found that alot of these clusters give this problem. We have always just repaired the cluster and the problem was solved. If you got a second hand cluster, chances are good that it was already broken.

hi there! im trying to fix my problem also. it doesnt go to empty and gets stuck between half and 3/4 full.
looking at it my best guess would be to replace the stepper motor, but it doesnt make sense as it does go thru the full range when you start the car? what did you do to fix yours sir?

Did you unplug the plug at the tank like Dirka said in his post?
Unplug the plug and see if it goes to E

Disconnect the 5-pin pump and guage connector at the tank.
Switch on the ignition.
Fuel guage must show E..for empty..as in nothing..all the way down.

Hie guy's, I also have the same problem on my Toyota hilux 2015 2kd, fuel gauge does not go below half even if it's empty, I replaced a fuel gauge bought one from Toyota but still the problem is there, when I unplug the socket on the gauge it goes right down to empty, but when I put the plug back it goes to half tank with the tank empty please help

Dirka wrote: ↑Wed Mar 01, 2017 12:29 pm That looks like a cluster for a Vigo..yes?
Then it is easy.
Disconnect the 5-pin pump and guage connector at the tank.
Switch on the ignition.
Fuel guage must show E..for empty..as in nothing..all the way down.
If not - then it might be the cluster, or in some cases the harness (which I doubt).

On the 5-pin plug (harness side): short out pins 2 & 3.
Switch on the ignition.
It must now show F..full..

If the above tests correct, then only I will start looking at the sender unit.
Aikona take out tank yet..that is a murske job.
First I will try and find out the resistance measurements for the sender unit at pins 2 & 3.
..then do the testing with a multimeter.
At empty the measurement should be very close to open circuit.
At full something like 8 ohm or so.

Measurements not ok?
Well then...tank removal tools..check...case of beer..check...whole saturday gone...check...
lots of foreign vocabulary...check.

Did you read this and follow the procedure? Did you replace the fuel gauge unit or the whole cluster? The problem described by a lot of the guys is that there is a problem in the electronic circuitry of the cluster itself which causes the faulty reading .... there is nothing wrong with the gauge, it's just getting false signals.

I just had my Hilux serviced this morning by Toyota Hillcrest.
They removed the cluster from the dash and resoldered some connections. This apparently is treated as a recall. No Charge. It takes less than 15 minutes to solve this problem. This seems to be a common problem with the faulty indication.

Hi. Mine kzn185 was, and with a 100% full tank still is reading just under 1/4. It went to full after the fill but then went wrong after I disconnected the battery for other maintenance.
I disconnected the batteries again then took the cluster out and gently slowly moved the needle to full and empty. It was free and ranged fine. I put it on empty and reinstalled the cluster then reconnected the battery. The needle gently went up to where it had been before, just less than 1/4. So the gauge is doing something.
I took the carpet up under the near side rear seat and found the inspection plate. Three screws released it. Ignition on. Reading1/4. Removed the sender plug. Needle went to empty. Plugged it in again, needle went to same 1/4 position.

So I think the sender unit is stuck. What do you think?

Looks like in need to drop the tank now? Is that a terrible job? (Tank is full so it needs to wait for 350 miles) Or drill some extra holes around the inspection plate so that I can undo the screws that can’t be reached holding the sender unit flange on so it can be “jiggled” a bit?
Or just drive around a bit and see what happens?

With your symptoms, I tend to agree that it is the sender unit. I would remove the fuel tank. It is not an overly complicated job. If you have access to a hoist it would be easier. It can be a bit of a struggle to remove the fuel pipes as well as the plugs for the wiring. A trick with the fuel pipes is to grip the hose where it is pushed over the fitting and to twist it. The hoses tend to “stick” to the fittings over time and that bond is more easily overcome by a rotational force than trying to pull the hose or going at it with a screwdriver.