Loose removable hitch

[oxydog]

My Hilux is fitted with an after-market replacement towbar, with a removable pin-type hitch. This hitch is loose, such that it rattles when driving on dirt roads and when jerked around by hand - should it be like that, and if not, how can I fix it? I'm concerned that, should I fix a bike rail on it, everything will move around violently. Also, when towing, won't this wear out the pin that keeps the whole hitch unit in place?

[CasKru]

Those units will have a snug fit as this will make it difficult to remove.

If the rattle irritates you you can always take something like DUCT Tape or bicycle inner tube and wrap it around the bar before inserting into the hole. m2cw

[OOOOMS]

This can be very irritating.....

One way to resolve is to drill a whole on one of the corners of the bumper square, weld a nut onto the outer, and skrew it tight onto the towbar attachment.

Will post some pics, easy fix imo!

[oxydog]

Hmmm, I like both these solutions. Maybe I'll tape it until I fit a tightening bolt. Thanks guys.

[ThysdJ]

Yes the welded on bolt is the best solution. Some of the manufaturers even build them that way.

[CasKru]

Yes the welded on bolt is the best solution. Some of the manufaturers even build them that way.

Mens kan altyd net 'n gaatjie boor en die gat tap. Dan hoef jy geen welding te doen nie.

PS: Always remember to remove you battery earth strap when welding on our vehicle.

[oxydog]

Cassie, is die staal dik genoeg om voldoende skroefdraad te sny?

[CasKru]

Cassie, is die staal dik genoeg om voldoende skroefdraad te sny?

Dit hang seker af van bumper tot bumpe. Dit gaan tussen 3mm en 5mm wees sover ek weet.

[OOOOMS]

Ma is terug van shopping......

[oxydog]

Sal werk vir my. Dink ek gaan Cassie se trick gebruik.

[ThysdJ]

5mm behoort genoeg vleis te wees om draad te tap, veral as jy dit op die hoek doen soos op Mark se foto.

[Mud Dog]

5mm should be enough, especially if you use a tight thread instead of a course one. But either way, I wouldn't recommend leaving the grub screw / bolt tightened whilst towing unless you've done as Thys first suggested by welding a nut on as well, otherwise a bit of extra sideway stress from a heavy trailer might just pop the thread. Since you speak of a bike rack, I would suggest you go with the nut as well. What I normally do in such instances is to tap the hole first, put a nut onto the bolt and screw it into the hole so that the threads are 'lined up' before welding. This gives you a bigger threaded area and allows you to use a coarser, (stronger) thread. Also use a high grade (8) steel bolt and nut.

[Danman]

If you decide to use the tap hole method, remember to remove the screw when towing.
The weight and stress whilst towing might dammage the tread. m2cw

[oxydog]

Hmm, that's true. Maybe a lekker big nut is the better option. I was also thinking: One should probably rather do it on the edge like Mark's, because it will have play both horizontally and vertically. Putting a bolt in diagonally will prevent it from moving in either plane, not just one.

[Mud Dog]

Correct!