Lexus overheating, hot cabin

cprinsloo · Post by **cprinsloo** » Tue Oct 06, 2015 9:11 am

Hi all,

Just back from 8 days in the Kgalagadi, lion sightings were awesome, but now I need some advice.

1) The radiator and electrical fan couldn't handle the heat, in fact, cooling is totally inadequate. It's got a KZTE radiator with a 400 mm electrical fan (puller). The radiator itself is not adequate, because according to my knowledge, if I'm driving faster than let's say 40 kmh, the fan itself shouldn't make a huge diff, the airflow from the vehicle should be enough to cool everything down. It overheated during the day (OK, it was very hot, 40+), but I had to slow down at every incline to keep the needle out of the red zone.
Is it possible to get the rad tested for efficiency? Not too sure if it is a genuine KZTE rad or maybe some pirate part.
I eventually removed the air-con rad which was installed in front of the main rad, that helped with the low speeds in the park but not on the open road.

Various installers have various ideas: some move the rad back and install a pusher electrical fan (BMW) in front. I spoke to a guy in Upington, he likes the mechanical fan with a 2.4 diesel rad, apparently it works in the NC heat. One guy also said the thermostat can be modified by drilling a 4mm hole in the flange, apparently that helps as well ( to open earlier, hot water will be on both sides), but if the termostat is open the rad should still be adequate to keep the temp down.

How much work to install a mech viscous fan and what mods are involved?

I would like advice and pictures if possible, I'm a bit desparate. SWAMBO threatened to never go on holiday in the Hilux again, which brings me to the second problem:

2) The cab is very hot (and I mean not only uncomfortable, it's torture). I still wanted to install some insulation between the cab and gearbox and firewall and engine, but I didn't get to that. I'm wondering if the fact that the auto GB is maybe a bit bigger than the original GB causes the space between the cab and the hot bits to be too small. I saw one conversion where the guy used the stuff with which one seals roofs (that black rubber roll stuff with the aluminium on the one side), or one can use the Sondor foam with the alu on the one side (I think it's called Firex). I used the Sondor stuff on my old Landy, and also on the Hilux between the exhaust and the cab floor, they say it is fire retardent but it actually caught fire once..., and the alu is very thin and quickly gets damaged.

I was also thinking of lowering the GB with an inch to increase the space between the hot bits and the cab, but one can't lower the engine because of the exhaust manifolds, then the angles of the prop shafts can be a problem?

Anybody else with this problem?
Any suggestions? Would appreciate it very much.

Cheers,

Chris

Agteros · Post by **Agteros** » Tue Oct 06, 2015 4:26 pm

Chris sorry to hear about this problem...hope someone can come with a suitable answer...

Kaspaas · Post by **Kaspaas** » Tue Oct 06, 2015 4:47 pm

Chris, Before I did a 25mm body lift on Kaspaas the bolts on the plastic footrest would burn my foot when driving bare feet. Thys also applied that "Alu tape bitumen" in the cab, It definitely helped but after the 25mm lift it was totally gone. I later removed that tape as it wouldn't set anymore with the constant melting and setting.

cprinsloo · Post by **cprinsloo** » Tue Oct 06, 2015 7:33 pm

Thx gents, will definitely consider the bodylift.

Post by **JohanM** » Tue Oct 06, 2015 8:38 pm

Chris,

With regards to the overheating on your Lexus motor. I have been told by a few people that the height of the radiator in relation to the engine and the water outlet on the engine is very important as the waterflow needs to be in falling circular motion whereby the water in the top radiator hose is where most heat is absorbed and it needs to flow evenly in order to cool down enough through the radiator to be able to cope with the heat demands. If the radiator is higher even slightly that can be contributing towards the problem. The key here is the speed and also the even spread of water cooling down at the correct speed to ensure that cooling stays optimal. Remember that the motor comes from a passenger vehicle where the radiator sits quite a bit in front of the motor and is in a straight line. thus cooling effeciency can be achieved easy with enough airflow around the engine.

Your engine bay is currently "cooking" the cab and also the motor from the outside because of high stagnant air that is present when driving at low speeds. I would suggest you go the viscous route and also have a look at how the airflow through the engine bay can be improved in order to extract as much as possible heat away from the engine.

A body lift will help. im sure 25mm will be enough. Also getting a aircon pusher fan will aid your cooling when in high ambient temperatures with slow speed driving. I would consider wiring this on the aircon so that when the aircon is on, it blows, but will include a override switch so that I can activate it when slow going in sand and need the extra bit of airflow through the engine bay.

Also is the autobox linked up to the radiator to allow foe cooling as an external cooler is not going to keep the autobox cool on its own. I would suggest you look at getting a radiator fitted for a automatic vehicle that has got the built in oil cooler. Then you can add the external cooler also to ensure the box stays on temperature.

I hope this helps.

Buffel · Post by **Buffel** » Tue Oct 06, 2015 8:44 pm

I stay in Kathu and Kgalagadi is close by. My Hilux is also fitted with the 4lt Lexus V8 BMW 740 Radiator and BMW electric fan with no overheating issues but I must state I have a 2.5 - 3" body Lift as well as Suspension lift with 35" bf Muds.The exhaust IS the main cause of heating the cab.Apart from the heat generated by the gearbox. If you think its hot while driving road surfaces.My Boet......Vat daai bakkie van jou duine toe as hy dan nie kook nie sal hy nooit kook nie. Dis n goeie platform om die heat exchange toe toets op enige modification.

4x4BEES · Post by **4x4BEES** » Tue Oct 06, 2015 8:59 pm

You can also look at bonnet vents, to help get the hot air out faster.

cprinsloo · Post by **cprinsloo** » Tue Oct 06, 2015 9:25 pm

Kaspaas wrote:Chris, Before I did a 25mm body lift on Kaspaas the bolts on the plastic footrest would burn my foot when driving bare feet. Thys also applied that "Alu tape bitumen" in the cab, It definitely helped but after the 25mm lift it was totally gone. I later removed that tape as it wouldn't set anymore with the constant melting and setting.

Thx Cobus, so the tape was applied on the inside of the cab? I would've thought the outside would be better to prevent the metal from getting hot. Of course not too sure about a fire hazard then...

cprinsloo · Post by **cprinsloo** » Tue Oct 06, 2015 9:30 pm

Buffel wrote:I stay in Kathu and Kgalagadi is close by. My Hilux is also fitted with the 4lt Lexus V8 BMW 740 Radiator and BMW electric fan with no overheating issues but I must state I have a 2.5 - 3" body Lift as well as Suspension lift with 35" bf Muds.The exhaust IS the main cause of heating the cab.Apart from the heat generated by the gearbox. If you think its hot while driving road surfaces.My Boet......Vat daai bakkie van jou duine toe as hy dan nie kook nie sal hy nooit kook nie. Dis n goeie platform om die heat exchange toe toets op enige modification.

Hi Stephan, die Hilux het warm geword in die sand en op die oop pad, met die 2.4 se ou dun radiatortjie het daai bakkie nooit eers in Koudom of Damaraland of Botswana se kaplyne eers bietjie warm geloop nie, hy moet weer so wees....

Die elektries fan moet wat my aanbetref nie heeltyd loop nie, gelukkig het ek 'n goeie een ingesit want hy het heeldag geloop, maak nie saak watterspoed ek ry nie., wat vir my sê die rad het nie genoeg kapasiteit om van die hitte ontslae te raak nie.

cprinsloo · Post by **cprinsloo** » Tue Oct 06, 2015 9:34 pm

JohanM wrote:Chris,

With regards to the overheating on your Lexus motor. I have been told by a few people that the height of the radiator in relation to the engine and the water outlet on the engine is very important as the waterflow needs to be in falling circular motion whereby the water in the top radiator hose is where most heat is absorbed and it needs to flow evenly in order to cool down enough through the radiator to be able to cope with the heat demands. If the radiator is higher even slightly that can be contributing towards the problem. The key here is the speed and also the even spread of water cooling down at the correct speed to ensure that cooling stays optimal. Remember that the motor comes from a passenger vehicle where the radiator sits quite a bit in front of the motor and is in a straight line. thus cooling effeciency can be achieved easy with enough airflow around the engine.

Your engine bay is currently "cooking" the cab and also the motor from the outside because of high stagnant air that is present when driving at low speeds. I would suggest you go the viscous route and also have a look at how the airflow through the engine bay can be improved in order to extract as much as possible heat away from the engine.

A body lift will help. im sure 25mm will be enough. Also getting a aircon pusher fan will aid your cooling when in high ambient temperatures with slow speed driving. I would consider wiring this on the aircon so that when the aircon is on, it blows, but will include a override switch so that I can activate it when slow going in sand and need the extra bit of airflow through the engine bay.

Also is the autobox linked up to the radiator to allow foe cooling as an external cooler is not going to keep the autobox cool on its own. I would suggest you look at getting a radiator fitted for a automatic vehicle that has got the built in oil cooler. Then you can add the external cooler also to ensure the box stays on temperature.

I hope this helps.

Thx Johan, seems quite complicated.

Space is a bit of a problem, I don't know how I will fit a blower without serious mods/cutting. I think even a viscous fan will be a problem to fit

Buffel · Post by **Buffel** » Tue Oct 06, 2015 9:41 pm

Dit kan wel wees of anders moet jy dalk kyk of die termostaat vas haak/foutief is .As ek reg verstaan het jy die lexus met die 2.4 se radiator laat loop?
Of hoe?

Buffel · Post by **Buffel** » Tue Oct 06, 2015 9:55 pm

Ek dink aangesien die instelasie reeds suksesvol gewerk het mens eers na ander vaktore moet kyk voordat jy reuse veranderings maak wat dalk onnodig geld gaan kos .Ek sal beslis oorweeg om eers te kyk vir lekke onder druk dan of die termostaat die verkoeling stesel genoeg tyd gee om die coolant/water temp af te bring dan sal ek kyk na die waterpomp of die impeller dalk los gekom het/foutief is of belt gly. so dan ook grassade wat radiator core kan blok en lugvloei beinvloed.Al hierdie dinge kan gedoen word sonder enige groot uitgawes en af getiek word vanaf die lys .Meeste van die tyd tel mens die probleem op wat maklik reg gestel kan word. my 2c worth

cprinsloo · Post by **cprinsloo** » Wed Oct 07, 2015 7:39 am

Buffel wrote:Dit kan wel wees of anders moet jy dalk kyk of die termostaat vas haak/foutief is .As ek reg verstaan het jy die lexus met die 2.4 se radiator laat loop?
Of hoe?

Nee, dit was voor die conversion, die 2.4 het nooit warm geloop met daai dun radiatortjie nie. Sal kyk na die termostaat ook. Hy werk beslis want onder kouer toestande loop hy mooi konstant, weet net nie of hy groot genoeg oopmaak nie.

Post by **pietpetoors** » Wed Oct 07, 2015 10:41 am

Not sure how your setup is but my opinion on our setup is:
Warm air raise and in my opinion gets trapped at the bonnet.
That is why some racing drivers put spacers at the rear of the bonnet so the hot air can flow out.
A backward scoop on the bonnet will do the same job.

You push hot air through the radiator over the engine and then it cannot escape. The V8 is so mush bigger than the 2.4, thus en engine bay is fuller than normal.

There is a rubber strip on the windscreen side which seals the bonnet when closed, I am going to remove that strip so there will be a slight gap for the air to escape and first see if that helps as neither a scoop or spacers under the bonnet appeal to me.

Inside the fenders are normally those rubber flaps, between the inside fender and chassis, I would remove those if they are still there to let air flow out easier.

Our Surf has an autobox radiator where the oil from the gearbox run through the radiator.
I see Johan said:
"Also is the autobox linked up to the radiator to allow foe cooling as an external cooler is not going to keep the autobox cool on its own. I would suggest you look at getting a radiator fitted for a automatic vehicle that has got the built in oil cooler. Then you can add the external cooler also to ensure the box stays on temperature."

I was wondering about this and I would rather install an external radiator for the gearbox itself.
If your gearbox oil becomes hot and runs through the radiator it warms up the water in the radiator, so now you have the engine and the gearbox heating up the water.

On our setup the pipes from the gearbox to the radiator runs very close to the exhaust manifold, at one place touching the metal pipes, so the exhaust heats up the gearbox oil, I will also change that and re route the pipes far away from the manifolds.

Post by **JohanM** » Wed Oct 07, 2015 7:49 pm

Pieter,

Bear in mind that the Autobox oil also needs to reach a certain temperature in order to operate optimum. Therefore the water temp from the radiator helps the box reach temperature soon and maintain it. The oil cooler is located in the lower radiator tank which is the cooler one.

A hot gearbox cannot by itself raise the water temperature enough to cause the engine to overheat as the oil cooler is not big enough compared to the size of the radiator of the vehicle. Also bear in mind that and auto box can get warm with the motor still within normal cooling paramaters. This is now applicable to a standard vehicle.

If an autobox causes the radiator to not keep up with the cooling, the conversion wasn't done properly from the first go in my opinion.

Thus adding an extra external cooler is beneficial if towing heavy loads in high ambient temepratures or heavy slow speed extreme off roading.

The cooler pipes should run clear from any heatsource or be well insulated against it where it need to pass close to a heat source.

cprinsloo · Post by **cprinsloo** » Wed Oct 07, 2015 8:09 pm

Something else: I assume the hot water should exit on the thermostat side? And the hot water should enter the rad from the bottom: reason being that hot water rises and should cool as it rises thru the rad? Also, the water should pass as quickly as possible thru the rad (and engine) to keep the temp diff to a minimum ?

Post by **JohanM** » Wed Oct 07, 2015 8:15 pm

Chris, water enters the engine on the thermostat side. The Top radiator hose is the outlet hose and water falls slowly down the radiator channels in order to cool down, cooler water enter from the bottom hose.

Water actually circulate slowly as it needs to stay constant thus the water needs time in the radiator to cool down before entering the engine.

cprinsloo · Post by **cprinsloo** » Wed Oct 07, 2015 8:54 pm

JohanM wrote:Chris, water enters the engine on the thermostat side. The Top radiator hose is the outlet hose and water falls slowly down the radiator channels in order to cool down, cooler water enter from the bottom hose.

Water actually circulate slowly as it needs to stay constant thus the water needs time in the radiator to cool down before entering the engine.

OK, thx. My reasoning about the water that must move quickly is that the longer it stays in the engine, the hotter it will get, and then the more time it will spend in the rad as well so will cool down more, that's why I reason that the quicker it moves, the less time it spends in the engine to pick up energy (heat), it also spends less time in the rad but is isn't as hot as water that moved more slowly thru the engine, that's why I speculated that the temp gradient on fast moving water will be smaller than slow moving water.

I don't think it's really that important, just interesting, the important thing is the capacity of the rad and fan to get rid of the heat, whether it's slow or fast moving.

Anybody knows what's the dimensions of a BMW 740 rad?

grips · Post by **grips** » Thu Oct 08, 2015 9:15 am

Ek is maar `n appy as dit by ombouings kom. Het die Lexus Hilux ombouing baie goed bestudeer omdat ons die roete met my seun se SFA Hilux wou gaan.

Het al baie meer Lexus Hilux`e in die duine sien kook as die wat nie kook nie. Die Lexus enjin lê die Hilux vol voor in die grootste rede hoekom ek nie die Lexus roete wil gaan nie. Eerstens moet daai enjinkap ordentlike vents kry om die omgewings temp laer te kry. `n Doelgerigte enjin scoop op my 347 v8 Ranger het die temp onder die enjinkap met 10grade laat daal. Dit het `n inlaat vir koue lug voor en trek die warm lug agter uit.

Verkoelers is die hart van elke ombouing. `n Verkoeler vir `n 3.0l enjin of 2.4 of BMW gaan nie `n 4.0l V8 wat hard werk koud hou nie.
Laat maar `n aluminium verkoeler bou wat die werk kan doen.

Waaiers is die volgende kritieke area. `n Visco is die ideal maar beperkte spasie maak die gebruik daarvan nie altyd moontlik nie. Ek gebruik Syclone waaiers op 3 van ons 4x4`s en het nog nooit met oorverhitting gesukkel nie.
Midas specials werk nie. Jy kan nie van `n R1200.00 se waaier verwag om die werk van `n R4000.00 se waaier te doen nie.

Maar my beskeie opinie.

TOYOTA 4YEFI · Post by **TOYOTA 4YEFI** » Fri Oct 09, 2015 10:16 am

HI

My opienie uit ondervinding is n elekt6riese fan werk nie en sal ook nooit werk nie want sy verkoeling is nie genoegsaam nie en die elektriese fan is ook onbetroubaar as dit kom by water en nie eers te praat van die irreteerende geraas wat hulle maak nie.my pa het sy een lexus motor in sy hilux verloor oor n elektriese fan (headgasket) toe het ek die ombouing vir hom oorgedoen met5 die oorspronklike visco jy kan maar gaan kyk op die forum soek net "my first attemp at a conversion". Ek het ook dieselfde opset in my 80 series cruiser en het geen hutte probleme nie. Hoe ek rideneer is dat daar baie min 4x4s of bakkies op die mark is wat met n elektriese fan uitkom bv Jeep JK wrangler en ek het al seker tien gesien wat kook in sand en met swaar sleep op selfs baie wind van voor af en dit is nuwe voetuie van die vloer af met standaard bande en suspensie jeep herken self dat hulle warm word en dar dit normaal is as die temp meter tot by driekwart gaan maar as ment dan op die erekenaar gaan kyk is die tempratuur al klaar tussen 110 en 120 grade. As ek jou kan raad gee haal daie electriese van uit en gaan visco toe hy vat dalk so klein bietjie van jou krag weg maar jy gaan n baie meer geruste hart he en water sal hom nie sommer breek nie tensy jy in die water in jaag nie. Ek hoop nie ek trap op iemand se tone nie en ek probeer ook nie jeep slag se nie ek dink tog dis n fantastiese voertuig en 4x4!!!

Mr_B · Post by **Mr_B** » Fri Oct 09, 2015 7:19 pm

If there isn't enough space for a viscous fan, i'd seriously consider a fixed fan. Super reliable, excellent cooling and less space required. Then add 2 side vented bonnet scoops so the rising stagnant air can escape.

cprinsloo · Post by **cprinsloo** » Sat Oct 10, 2015 3:52 pm

grips wrote:Ek is maar `n appy as dit by ombouings kom. Het die Lexus Hilux ombouing baie goed bestudeer omdat ons die roete met my seun se SFA Hilux wou gaan.

Het al baie meer Lexus Hilux`e in die duine sien kook as die wat nie kook nie. Die Lexus enjin lê die Hilux vol voor in die grootste rede hoekom ek nie die Lexus roete wil gaan nie. Eerstens moet daai enjinkap ordentlike vents kry om die omgewings temp laer te kry. `n Doelgerigte enjin scoop op my 347 v8 Ranger het die temp onder die enjinkap met 10grade laat daal. Dit het `n inlaat vir koue lug voor en trek die warm lug agter uit.

Verkoelers is die hart van elke ombouing. `n Verkoeler vir `n 3.0l enjin of 2.4 of BMW gaan nie `n 4.0l V8 wat hard werk koud hou nie.
Laat maar `n aluminium verkoeler bou wat die werk kan doen.

Waaiers is die volgende kritieke area. `n Visco is die ideal maar beperkte spasie maak die gebruik daarvan nie altyd moontlik nie. Ek gebruik Syclone waaiers op 3 van ons 4x4`s en het nog nooit met oorverhitting gesukkel nie.
Midas specials werk nie. Jy kan nie van `n R1200.00 se waaier verwag om die werk van `n R4000.00 se waaier te doen nie.

Maar my beskeie opinie.

Dankie vir die info Christo. Het jy dalk 'n foto van daai scoop wat in- en uitlaat? EK het 'n Craig Davies 16 duim fan op, gedink hy sal die job kan doen maar nog steeds te lig. En hy move iets soos 2100 l/sek ........

cprinsloo · Post by **cprinsloo** » Sat Oct 10, 2015 4:08 pm

Ok gents,

I think I have the solution: 4 " lift, 2 big air scoops, 30 inch viscous fan behind a 35 x 35 x 3 inch 7 core lorry rad and a huge electric blower fan in front.... (only kidding)

Had a look at a Hilux this morning with a VVTi with the original GB and 50 mm lift. KZTE rad with visc Lex fan (fan diam is 450 mm). The Lex fan is nice and flat. He doesn't even have a cowling and does dune driving without problems.

So the first thing on the list is a 40 mm body lift, then installation of the Lex visc fan. Maybe I'll need 20 mm but if there is a problem with the space I'll move the engine and GB back another 20 mm , which the lift will allow easily.

I WILL GET THIS SETUP RIGHT!!

Luckily I can handle a grinder and welder and spanners, I will not give up on my Hilex. It is important to never loose one's sense of humour and regard it as a challenge.

Thanks for all the advice so far.

Cheers,

C

cprinsloo · Post by **cprinsloo** » Sat Oct 10, 2015 4:14 pm

pietpetoors wrote:Not sure how your setup is but my opinion on our setup is:
Warm air raise and in my opinion gets trapped at the bonnet.
That is why some racing drivers put spacers at the rear of the bonnet so the hot air can flow out.
A backward scoop on the bonnet will do the same job.

You push hot air through the radiator over the engine and then it cannot escape. The V8 is so mush bigger than the 2.4, thus en engine bay is fuller than normal.

Our Surf has an autobox radiator where the oil from the gearbox run through the radiator.
I see Johan said:
"Also is the autobox linked up to the radiator to allow foe cooling as an external cooler is not going to keep the autobox cool on its own. I would suggest you look at getting a radiator fitted for a automatic vehicle that has got the built in oil cooler. Then you can add the external cooler also to ensure the box stays on temperature."

I was wondering about this and I would rather install an external radiator for the gearbox itself.
If your gearbox oil becomes hot and runs through the radiator it warms up the water in the radiator, so now you have the engine and the gearbox heating up the water.

On our setup the pipes from the gearbox to the radiator runs very close to the exhaust manifold, at one place touching the metal pipes, so the exhaust heats up the gearbox oil, I will also change that and re route the pipes far away from the manifolds.

Thx Pieter.

I already have spacers on the hinges of the bonnet, but I will consider the scoop as well, will also remove the rubber flaps. I have a separate GB oil cooler for the auto box, it seems to work OK (it's installed in front of the main rad).

Cheers,

C

cprinsloo · Post by **cprinsloo** » Sat Oct 10, 2015 4:57 pm

TOYOTA 4YEFI wrote:HI

My opienie uit ondervinding is n elekt6riese fan werk nie en sal ook nooit werk nie want sy verkoeling is nie genoegsaam nie en die elektriese fan is ook onbetroubaar as dit kom by water en nie eers te praat van die irreteerende geraas wat hulle maak nie.my pa het sy een lexus motor in sy hilux verloor oor n elektriese fan (headgasket) toe het ek die ombouing vir hom oorgedoen met5 die oorspronklike visco jy kan maar gaan kyk op die forum soek net "my first attemp at a conversion". Ek het ook dieselfde opset in my 80 series cruiser en het geen hutte probleme nie. Hoe ek rideneer is dat daar baie min 4x4s of bakkies op die mark is wat met n elektriese fan uitkom bv Jeep JK wrangler en ek het al seker tien gesien wat kook in sand en met swaar sleep op selfs baie wind van voor af en dit is nuwe voetuie van die vloer af met standaard bande en suspensie jeep herken self dat hulle warm word en dar dit normaal is as die temp meter tot by driekwart gaan maar as ment dan op die erekenaar gaan kyk is die tempratuur al klaar tussen 110 en 120 grade. As ek jou kan raad gee haal daie electriese van uit en gaan visco toe hy vat dalk so klein bietjie van jou krag weg maar jy gaan n baie meer geruste hart he en water sal hom nie sommer breek nie tensy jy in die water in jaag nie. Ek hoop nie ek trap op iemand se tone nie en ek probeer ook nie jeep slag se nie ek dink tog dis n fantastiese voertuig en 4x4!!!

Dankie Juan. Stem saam met jou.

Watse verkoeler het jy in jou pa se SFA gesit? (Die rooie?)

Cheers,

C

grips · Post by **grips** » Sun Oct 11, 2015 5:46 pm

cprinsloo wrote:
grips wrote:Ek is maar `n appy as dit by ombouings kom. Het die Lexus Hilux ombouing baie goed bestudeer omdat ons die roete met my seun se SFA Hilux wou gaan.

Het al baie meer Lexus Hilux`e in die duine sien kook as die wat nie kook nie. Die Lexus enjin lê die Hilux vol voor in die grootste rede hoekom ek nie die Lexus roete wil gaan nie. Eerstens moet daai enjinkap ordentlike vents kry om die omgewings temp laer te kry. `n Doelgerigte enjin scoop op my 347 v8 Ranger het die temp onder die enjinkap met 10grade laat daal. Dit het `n inlaat vir koue lug voor en trek die warm lug agter uit.

Verkoelers is die hart van elke ombouing. `n Verkoeler vir `n 3.0l enjin of 2.4 of BMW gaan nie `n 4.0l V8 wat hard werk koud hou nie.
Laat maar `n aluminium verkoeler bou wat die werk kan doen.

Waaiers is die volgende kritieke area. `n Visco is die ideal maar beperkte spasie maak die gebruik daarvan nie altyd moontlik nie. Ek gebruik Syclone waaiers op 3 van ons 4x4`s en het nog nooit met oorverhitting gesukkel nie.
Midas specials werk nie. Jy kan nie van `n R1200.00 se waaier verwag om die werk van `n R4000.00 se waaier te doen nie.

Maar my beskeie opinie.
Dankie vir die info Christo. Het jy dalk 'n foto van daai scoop wat in- en uitlaat? EK het 'n Craig Davies 16 duim fan op, gedink hy sal die job kan doen maar nog steeds te lig. En hy move iets soos 2100 l/sek ........

Kom so pas terug van `n 4X4 GTG Community 4x4 forum My Ranger 347v8 (5.7l) en my seun se Hilux 5mge altwee met Syclone waaiers toegerus geen oorverhitting nie. Saterdag heeldag Waterford roete gery. Hilux se Craig Davies met Syclone vervang omdat ek nie tevrede was met die cycle van Craig Davies nie. Syclone kom nooit vir langer as `n paar minute aan nie.

As jy nie spasie het nie bly daar geen ander keuse as `n elektriese waaier nie. Wanneer jy elektries gaan kry die beste wat geld kan koop.

Ja visco seker die beste maar as daar nie plek is nie moet jy seker beter planne maak.

Het `n scoop van `n t6 Ranger gemodify nadat `n werkende effektiewe een my R21000.00 sou kos om in te voer.
Daar is vier openinge in die enjin kap gesny. Die scoop is in twee gedeel. koel lug word deur die voorste inlaat inforseer en weerskante agter uitgetrek.

3 ton draaibank op wa Upington hitte 40grade plus geen problem. Onthou net `n waaier kan nie `n oneffektiewe verkoeler goed laat lyk nie.

grips · Post by **grips** » Sun Oct 11, 2015 6:07 pm

O ja en as die spasie tussen jou enjin se waaier en verkoeler minder as 25mm op `n 4x4 is verwag maar een of ander stadium `n stukkende verkoeler.

Chris my earlike opinie jou verkoeler is te klein vir die Lexus.

Post by **LouisZ** » Mon Oct 12, 2015 1:25 pm

Die werk vir Bosbeer. Bmw 750 radiator waarvan die kante vergroot is met 15.5 inch elektriese fan. Thermo switch die laagste temperatuur waarby die switch aanskakel. Dink dit is 75 grade. Bosbeer het glad nie warm geraak op 4x4 roetes.

Buffel · Post by **Buffel** » Mon Oct 12, 2015 4:44 pm

Jip myne is dieselfde geen issues.

Post by **pietpetoors** » Mon Oct 12, 2015 6:20 pm

Had a brain wave.
We bought the Surf with snorkel not connected because the air intake for the Lexus is on the opposite side.

The air intake is 1.1 meter off the ground, so does it really need a snorkel?

Today I connected a straight pipe on the snorkel to go into the engine bay, very much like the SFA snorkels.
So when we drive the snorkel will be used to blow cool air into the engine bay.

If we do slow rock crawling type of trails there will be very little air movement into the snorkel but hot air goes up, so theoretically if we turn the head around the snorkel will then act as a chimney, air blown through the radiator by the fans can escape via the chimney.

: Surf Chimney

cprinsloo · Post by **cprinsloo** » Mon Oct 12, 2015 8:27 pm

grips wrote:O ja en as die spasie tussen jou enjin se waaier en verkoeler minder as 25mm op `n 4x4 is verwag maar een of ander stadium `n stukkende verkoeler.

Chris my earlike opinie jou verkoeler is te klein vir die Lexus.

Thx Christo. Ek dink aan daai BMW 750 verkoeler....

cprinsloo · Post by **cprinsloo** » Mon Oct 12, 2015 8:30 pm

LouisZ wrote:Die werk vir Bosbeer. Bmw 750 radiator waarvan die kante vergroot is met 15.5 inch elektriese fan. Thermo switch die laagste temperatuur waarby die switch aanskakel. Dink dit is 75 grade. Bosbeer het glad nie warm geraak op 4x4 roetes.

Dankie Louis. Wat is die doel van die vergrote kante?

Post by **LouisZ** » Mon Oct 12, 2015 9:35 pm

Meer water. Ook die kante is Ali, bietjie meer wind oor die dat die water koeler word.

Buffel · Post by **Buffel** » Mon Oct 12, 2015 10:59 pm

pietpetoors wrote:Had a brain wave.
We bought the Surf with snorkel not connected because the air intake for the Lexus is on the opposite side.

The air intake is 1.1 meter off the ground, so does it really need a snorkel?

Today I connected a straight pipe on the snorkel to go into the engine bay, very much like the SFA snorkels.
So when we drive the snorkel will be used to blow cool air into the engine bay.

If we do slow rock crawling type of trails there will be very little air movement into the snorkel but hot air goes up, so theoretically if we turn the head around the snorkel will then act as a chimney, air blown through the radiator by the fans can escape via the chimney.
snorkel-vent.jpg

Buffel · Post by **Buffel** » Mon Oct 12, 2015 10:59 pm

You can swap the intake manifold around to the left if you want to use the snorkel for air intake.

cprinsloo · Post by **cprinsloo** » Tue Oct 13, 2015 8:07 am

cprinsloo wrote:
LouisZ wrote:Die werk vir Bosbeer. Bmw 750 radiator waarvan die kante vergroot is met 15.5 inch elektriese fan. Thermo switch die laagste temperatuur waarby die switch aanskakel. Dink dit is 75 grade. Bosbeer het glad nie warm geraak op 4x4 roetes.
Dankie Louis. Wat is die doel van die vergrote kante?

Aa, thx, kon nie mooi sien nie, sien nou dis tenks. Wie het dit gedoen?

TOYOTA 4YEFI · Post by **TOYOTA 4YEFI** » Tue Oct 13, 2015 9:22 am

Hi

wees net versigti met bonnet vents want daar is n natuurlike lugfloei deur die gril en dan af teen die firewall en onder deer die bak die beste is om n lae druk sesteem te veroorsaak net onder die firewal wat sodoende veroorsaak dat die lug onder die bonnet uit gesuig word waneer daar bonet scoop op kom kan dit die lug vloei steur so hou daai een eerder as n last resort . maak seker die plaat wat standaard onder die radiator is is nogsteeds daar of bouy n plaat daar dit help met twee dinge , om te keer dat die wind nie net deer die rad gaan en dan dadelik af neuk reg voor die engine nie en dit help ook om water weg van dou fan af te hou waneer jy skielig in water in gaan. die groot geheim in n sfa hilux is goeie lugvloei deer die engine bay fan die gril af to onder die voertuig en daai rubber flaps in die wheel arches is ook noodsaklik myne was al vrot van ouderdom toe sny ek vir my nuwes uit neoprene rubber en dit aleen het n groot effek gehad op my ander hulix met n diesel motor is. ek hoop dit help . hou net moed jy sal hom wen!!!
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Lorry · Post by **Lorry** » Tue Oct 13, 2015 9:26 am

Have you taken your bonnet off and gone for a drive and see if that helps, if it does then you may need to modify your bonnet ,make a nice air scope to allow for air to move freely around your engine forcing air into the egine bay and normal speeds and allowing the air to escape whne at crawl speeds. Wrap your exhasut pipes in heat tape to remove the heat from the engine bay. if the air cannot move around your engine bay then a big raditor wont work as the air has no where to go and the temp will just rise.

Post by **LouisZ** » Wed Oct 14, 2015 9:45 am

Chris jy kan hom na enige Radiator plek toe vat, hulle behoort dit te kan verander.

cprinsloo · Post by **cprinsloo** » Wed Oct 14, 2015 8:56 pm

Gents,

Thanks for all the advice. It seems there are more than one way to skin a cat.

My plan is to do a body lift first, then to go viscous fat with a BMW 740 radiator. I know certain electrical fan configurations work, but I think I will go the viscous route. I will maybe need some space, but I'll move the engine back if necessary. Will then see about vents in the bonnet.

Thinking back, I can remember that at some stage my brakes also started to go spungy, which also point to the hot air not being removed efficiently from the engine bay. And it was very hot on certain days (42 deg), so then one needs everything to work optimum.

So, anybody knows where I can find what they apparently call the viscous star, the viscous clutch and the flat Lexus fan cheap?

Cheers,

C

cprinsloo · Post by **cprinsloo** » Wed Oct 14, 2015 8:57 pm

LouisZ wrote:Chris jy kan hom na enige Radiator plek toe vat, hulle behoort dit te kan verander.

Thx Louis