Hilux 4x4 Forum

It would be of interest to know what problems owners have had with SFA models of the HiLux (pre 1999) as this would be an excellent indicator of any future hassles, or an indicator for preventative maintenance.

Problems I experienced with the six HiLux’s I have driven over the years approximately 950000 km, excluding items that have limited life such as brake pads & linings, fan belts, radiator hoses, etc.

Engine: – no problems. My current single cab is now at 292140 km and uses no oil in 10000km.

Fuel system:
Fuel pump packed up.

Electrical system:
Replace faulty voltage regular.
Wiring to load bin burnt out, replaced under guarantee.

Drive train:
Twice had to replace centre bearing on the prop shaft.
Had a rear diff reconditioned as there was an abnormal amount of slack, at the same time I replaced all the universal joints.
Rear oil seal on gearbox.
Twice: Front wheel CV oil seals replaced.

Had one gearbox reconditioned as it was jumping out of 4th gear.

Body:
Once vehicle had rust problems around wind screen and roof gutter.
Twice: Cracks in load bin where the floor joined the front wall. No doubt due to carrying a 750kg bakkie-sakkie for 4 months of the year.

Comments:
Only twice have I broken down on the road; with a broken fan belt (my fault for not having a spare), and with a faulty fuel pump.

Have never replaced a timing chain.

With my current HiLux I had both starter motor and alternator reconditioned at 200000km. I plan to buy a new alternator at 300000km.

What opinions/suggestions for a preventative maintenance programme.

Great Post Harold

This one should be interesting nê

I can only comment on my 4Y Motor that died on me at 183k

But... that's because a certain previous owner often ran it dry of oil :roll:

Other than that she's 20 years old this year so I spoilt her with EFi, a new Korean Motor and one of FD's Gx300 29MHz's

Looking forward to seeing the posts

Sommer nou keep this Lekker Thread hey Bennie mos

Maak it a "Sticky"

Rich

Your wish is my command

They are so damn addictive...

My 2.4SRX(22R Engine) has 206000km on her.I have had her 6 years.
Here is a list of the problems I have had:

ENGINE:none, although lately experincing engine run on, going to try colder plugs as suggested by Bennie.

FUEL SYSTEM:Replaced fuel pump(wasn't actually faulty Penn valve ease blockage see below)

COOLING SYSTEM:Replaced thermostat and 2 waterpumps

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM:Starter motor reconditioned at 204000km.Negative battery lead worked loose inside the clamp.

DRIVE TRAIN:None

BODY:Rusted quarter light window frame replaced with good second hand one.Have noticed rust starting on load bin seem but treated it before it could get any worse.Treated soom small rust patches on inside of bonnet on weekend(nothing serious).I have to keep an eye on her as I live just a kilometer or so from the sea!

BREAKDOWNS:Fuel filter blockage caused by Penn vavle ease thought it was fuel pump changed pump but then when it did it again traced it to Penn vavle ease blocking fuel filter.Will think twice before adding any additves to my fuel. :evil: Fan belt snapped once but was able to replace it on the road(had spare).

If I think of anything else I will add it later.I tried hard to think of anything else but it is difficult as she hasn't given me much trouble :D

I hope my new 2700i will give the same good service, actually after reading all the good reports on the 3RZ engine it should give even less problems!

Boy this thread is gonna be interesting

Cos Hilux's just don't break

I'll 2nd Thys' (Kaspaas) No.1 Complaint too


Keep 'em coming

Rich

Hi guys,

Can you please post costs (more or less) of repairs/replacements as well, will give some indication of costs to keep it running? e.g. whats the costs of refurbishing a gearbox?

Mine: 22R, now 165 K km, had it from 98 K km.

Snapped a v-belt once, replaced with spare. (R30)

Had a brake failure, but it was my own fault. Didn't assemble rear brake correctly, first the handbrake adjuster came loose, then the whole adjuster between the two pads fell out, didn't have brakes at all, luckily no other vehicles (Botswana cut lines). Repaired temporary with 8 mm threaded bar and 2 nuts, drove around for 6 weeks like that, replaced both drums and all pads and all springs for R 900 (labour included). (Not OEM)

Replaced front hub seals and carrier bearings for about R 800 IIRC.

The 65 K km I did with it included trips to Northern Cape twice, Namibia from top to bottom, a trip to the Cape via Sani, Naudesnek, Baviaanskloof and Gamkas, to Vic Valls via Bots, northern Natal a few times etc., usually heavily loaded and driving bad roads, no other problems.

Cheers,

Chris

These are my HiLux costs fo the past 12 months: distance travelled 37695 km
Consumption: 7.353 km/lt
Fuel cost R43711 (average R8.41/lt [range R6.87 to R10.50/lt])

Spares & Repairs:
Prop shaft universal joints, balancing; recon rear diff & front CV seals: R11091
Transfer gearbox recon: R8154
Redo brakes and new speedo cable R1556
New tyres: R3558
Licence: R441

Credit & Garage card costs : R609
Insurance: R5585
Other: R1970 Such as oil, plugs, filters, silicon spray, Q20, jump leads, tail light assembly, grease, grease nipples, masking tape, batteries for immobiliser, belt dressing, etc

Total costs: R76675 = R2.03/km

The two ‘big’ costs for this period was the rear diff and transfer box R19245, but I’m not complaining as my costs for the previous tree years was: R1.02 R1.21 and R1.38
For a 1998 model that has now almost done 300,000 km I think it’s pretty good.

My '97 22R 2.4 is standing on 192 000km. Only had her for 10 months so far.

ENGINE: Refurished the carb. Had a small problem with smoke when changing gears. This disappeared after a full service with correct oil.

DRIVETRAIN: Busted pinionshaft seal on rear axle which caused the bearings to fail in the diff. Refurbished both diffs, and replaced all 4 wheelbearings plus front hub assembly on both wheels. COST: R5000

ELECTRICAL: Only the battery..

BRAKES: The handbrake newer ever works. I've given up on it for now.

BODY: A small rust spot on the roof due to incorrect roofrack brackets used by previous owner.

SUSPENSION: None.

Castos wrote: Hand brake never ever works:
Why? What's the problem?

Come on guys, on this forum there must be some one who can advise Custos what to do to get his hand brake working?

Harold wrote:Castos wrote: Hand brake never ever works:
Why? What's the problem?

Come on guys, on this forum there must be some one who can advise Custos what to do to get his hand brake working?

Will create a seperate topic for this mate

See:

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=4033&start=0&st=0&sk=t&sd=a

Rich

A brick is the most effective SFA brake around

BenHur wrote:A brick is the most effective SFA brake around

Thats a LR brake as far as I know

Come on Chaps, lets get serious - That’s an un-called for and flippant response to some one who has a problem!

I was serious I have also given up on fixing it - two trails later and it is useless again. If you are a serious trail driver you accept the fact that the HB will fail again soon. My last cable broke within 3 months of replacing it. I tried parking on a 35 degree slope facing upwards with the handbrake and pulled the head of the cable where it fastens to the hand brake lever right off again. Fact is after you drove through water the handbrake does not work in reverse anymore and I then pull it harder and harder until it brakes/breaks. Now I just park her in gear (low 1st when on a trail)

BenHur wrote:I was serious I have also given up on fixing it - two trails later and it is useless again. If you are a serious trail driver you accept the fact that the HB will fail again soon. My last cable broke within 3 months of replacing it. I tried parking on a 35 degree slope facing upwards with the handbrake and pulled the head of the cable where it fastens to the hand brake lever right off again. Fact is after you drove through water the handbrake does not work in reverse anymore and I then pull it harder and harder until it brakes/breaks. Now I just park her in gear (low 1st when on a trail)

That's interesting, I've been through a lot of water recently :roll:

Rich
Ps. can you shift this stuff over to the new dedicated topic please Bennie

Rich

Harold wrote:Castos wrote: Hand brake never ever works:
Why? What's the problem?

Come on guys, on this forum there must be some one who can advise Custos what to do to get his hand brake working?

I've given up on it. I've replaced every piece of the handbrake assembly from front to back. It will work for a week or so and then it would work in one of the directions but newer in both (It will work going forward or backwards but newer both). Had a funny a week or so ago. We where standing on the the roof looking at a donga to play in when the Hilux dicided it is going to start running in gear and start itself. I looked like James Bond jumping into the Hilux.

I'll have a look thanks for the link.

The thing with the rear brake-shoes is that they wear down pretty quickly. Especially if the Hilux is driven off-road and in water/sand/dust/mud a lot.

That is why a good clean is imperative after an off-road session. The dust/sand/mud forms a paste on the inside of the drum and it grinds the shoes down. This is also one of the reasons I stay well clear of mud/muddy water... Unless there is no other way.. :roll: :roll:

ok my info

bought my hilux in Jan 2000 with 169 000km on it.
it now has 265 000km on it and this is what i have changed :

1. new tires on 195 000km (cost R3600)
2. replaced standard carb with weber on 210 000km after standard carb would give hassles (R500)
3. disable dual battery system 220 000km after it stooped alternator from charging
4. 240 000km put cowley branch on becuase standard carb hole in outlet manifualt was giving to mutch hassles (R1800)
5. 245 000km replace carb with other weber becuase i broke weber mixing screw :? :? , though carb was the problem meanwhile it was distrubutar cap and cables that needed to be replaced (carb R500, distrubitor cap/cables +- R400, beeing stupid and braking srew PRICELESS)
6.then just normal services every 10000km done by myself. Replacing brake piston caliper rubbers twice.
7. at the moment it is using (not leaking) quite a lot of oil - smokes alot - so i thing my valve stem seals are a bit warn so i am thinking of getting the head redone ....

In all this time a have only been stuck 1 becuase of battery going to flat to run the lights (more safety). Fixed it in 10 minutes by looking at the engine bay in the dark and seeing the short on the daul batery charger.

Ignition packed in on my 2.7i SC. Parked in my garage and the next day the key simply wouldn't turn. Toyota talked to me like I was an idiot, for which I do not blame them, and sent out a mac. He was sure it was just jammed against the steering lock but no luck. Couldn't push it back out the garage as the wheels were turned. Ended up removing the entire mechanism around the column, pushing the bakkie out and towing it away. Glad it didn't happen while on a trip. Never heard of this ever happening to a Lux.

Have just had the ignition switch pack up on my wife's HiLux, the key would not turn. Fortunately the wheels were straight so I was able to push it out of the garage. Then proceeded to apply first aid by way of silicon spray, etc but still would not turn.
Then proceeded to disassemble the steering and column electrics. Ended up having to drill out the ignition tumbles to get the inner barrel to turn and so remove the ignition switch.
Phoned Toyota to get an ignition switch and was told that it comes in a complete set, ignition switch, door locks and fuel cap: price over R2000. Won’t tell you what I told them to do with it. So I tried Midas and others for a pirate part - no luck. My wife meanwhile had to use the HiLux; can tell you she was not too happy about using a screwdriver as a key.

Then I remembered I had an ignition switch somewhere in my workshop, from where I do not remember. Found it; it fitted perfectly except the pin that secured it into the assembly was in the wrong place, but after a few minor modifications got it fitted and working perfectly. So now we have two keys, one for the ignition and another for the doors etc.
Sure beats spending R2000 plus.

Harold

It is not normally not too difficult to open the locking mechanism and move.modify some of the pins (or even reuse the other ignitiion's to rev ert back to one key. Have not done it on a Toy yet but on other cars and it is not that difficult. Even if you have to change the door lock to fit the new key it will still be worth your while

Just becareful of little springs jumping out and dropping on the floor when you take it apart, can be difficult to find

Herewith all expenses and items I had replaced on Agteros my '86 2200DC 4Y since Feb 2000 (tme when I bought it). I bought it on 150000km - it now has 212000km. It is still on the Firestone ATX's I bought it with - I reckon they will do another 20000km.

Apart from fuel and insurance and relicensing this was the only expenses. OK, I also fitted full OME on the 2/28/2003 at a cost of R 15121-60.
You will note - no expenses on drivetrain and engine. Agteros is using about 500ml of oil on 4000km.
I exclusively use it on hunting trips and 4x4 trails which is mostly associated with the ones associated with game parks as I don't like to go "off-road" just for the sake of it. Also have the FT 4.0 V6 4x4, RunX Sport (my wife's car) and Astra 200iE which I use for everyday use.

3/10/2000 Front Bearings 207.48
4/1/2000 Thermostat 101.53
29/6/2000 Service 791.05
5/4/2001 Alternator 378.33
7/18/2002 Plugs, points,condensor 177.00
1/14/2003 New Clutch 1580.00
1/25/2003 Fix Xhaust 120.00
6/11/2003 Wheel Allignment 120.00
10/23/2003 Service 643.49
11/10/2003 Fuel Pump 200.00
12/7/2004 New Radiator 1462.47
12/9/2004 New Battery 480.00
4/15/2005 Service 672.94
1/24/2006 Fix Xhaust 250.00
11/1/2006 Service 672.11
1/17/2007 Wheel Bearing Back 205.20
1/19/2007 Service&wheel bearing 1460.96
6/5/2007 New StainS Xhaust 2200.00
Total 11722.56

Most common problem on the SFA is the character. Once you drove it, it is difficult to let go. Addictive and a bakkie of its own. Sold my previous '93 2.2 more than a year a half ago and it costed me another 63K to get a proper 2.2 one again. This time a bit older - '91 model but will stick to it. Do the changes and repairs as they come up.

HannesP wrote:Most common problem on the SFA is the character. Once you drove it, it is difficult to let go. Addictive and a bakkie of its own. Sold my previous '93 2.2 more than a year a half ago and it costed me another 63K to get a proper 2.2 one again. This time a bit older - '91 model but will stick to it. Do the changes and repairs as they come up.

So bek moet jam kry.

In 200 000km, i have replaced: 6 engines(4y, 7mge, 7mgte,2l2ti,4ye,wl2.5), 4 gearboxes, 5 clutches, 1 transfer box, 1 sideshaft, 2 diffs, 3 sets leaf springs, 4 sets shocks, 6 propshafts, 3 fuel tanks, 1 roof, 3 doors, 4 front fenders, 1 loadbin, resprayed 3 times, 3 canopies, 3 interiors, 2 front bumpers, 4 windscreens, 6 sets wheels and tyres,
Shame old rattle and humm has worked hard! By far the most expensive vehicle i've owned, but worth every sent!
Can annyone beat this?
Ps: Even with broken boxes, misfiring engines, bent diffs, bent propshafts, damaged fuel tanks, a roof secured with a snathchstrap etc, it has never been towed home!

Hi Alan - surely this is one for the Guiness book of records

Cool Allan, But I still have first option on the side-steps...

149 000km
balanced driveshaft, R950, common with SFA?
front wheel hubs seals R2400
Brake pads, R950
Steering control arm, R650, fixed steering knock and shudder
sevice/ lube and dyno R950

Excellenet service form SAC boksburg, mechanic very helpful to newbie.

2.8 d/cab SFA wrote:.........................Steering control arm, R650, fixed steering knock and shudder............

Excellenet service form SAC boksburg, mechanic very helpful to newbie.

Common Problem yes

Fix - I'd be interested to learn what his fix was

Can you give more details please

Rich

Ek wonder of iemand hiermee sal kan help. My linker agterwiel "lock" as ek net 'n bietjie hard moet rem. Ek het laas jaar op die R300 amper my bakkie omgegooi toe ek hard vir 'n bleddie golden arrow bus moes rem wat eenvoudig voor my ingesny het. Dit voel vir my of die linker agterste remskoene ook nou klaar is, dan wil ek sommer ook na die "break equalizer" laat kyk, want 'n "mechanic" het gese dis die fout. Hy kom dit egter nie self regmaak nie. Die ouens wat die vorige stel remme ingesit het, kon ook nie, al het hulle hooh en laag gesweer dis nou reg.

Do a disc brake conversion!

Louis Here is a whole thread about Hiluxes and their brakes..
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=3380

My Lux was a 2.4 1986 Double cab.

Problems Experienced,
Burst waterpipe (Small little pipe under the intake manifold) Send the head in for an overhaul and refitted.
220K Approx
Alternator 250K approx, and again at 410k
425k the 22r motor eventually started to sound like a dog puking. There was play on the Timing chain, slight piston knock. The waterpipe fittings started to deteriorate.

I then had one of the imported 4y's installed

And because of its age, Never ending chasing down of rust.

The most common problem I encounter with my SFA Hilux is, that there are other drivers who think their vehicle is a better off-road vehicle than the SFA Hilux.

The only vehicle better than my SFA Hilux is another SFA Hilux with a more competent driver.

The only common problem with a SFA lux is that you just cant get your hands on the m old hiluxes anymore and then the biggest problem is that by law were not allowed to drive over the over so called 4x4s out htere anymore -

Most common problem on the SFA is the character. Once you drove it, it is difficult to let go. Addictive and a bakkie of its own.

:D That's probably the 2nd most common problem. The most common problem is that the vehicle's capability exceeds that of the idiot behind the wheel (Forum members excluded of course!)

Well mine is a 1988 model with 4 Y engine. My brother bought it new in 1988. I bought it from him 5 years ago. Speedo standing at 384000 km currently. The only problems experienced is as follows: ( FROM NEW )
1. Fuel pump packed up 2 years ago
2. Powersteering pump replaced on 380000 km
3. Heater radiator replaced
4. Universals on rear propshaft replaced
5. Carburator replaced with a Weber

This is the only problems except normal wear items that gave problems

In March I started to refurbish the vehicle and resprayed it completely. OME and ARB bumper also fitted. Freeflow exhaust system with Wildcat branches fitted. 31-10.5 BF Goodrich MT's fitted with mags. All w/bearings were replaced, front diff seals replaced etc,etc,etc
A lot of hard work was put in and I believe she will go for another 20 years

Ek hoop ek is so gelukkig soos julle manne, ek het nou my eerste hilux vir n week en daar staan hy met SFA olie seels en bearings , voor en agter remme (HANDBRIEK) heat sender unit en die vader weet wat hulle alles nog gaan fout kry- sopas gehoor die voorste discs is ook klaar en een caliper (moes ek my Mazda laat gaan het?)

Ek weet die SFA is nogal taai dit is al wat redelik hou ondergrond by ons en die Cruisers ook

Die agter remme hou so tussen 3 en 4 weke dan is hulle klaar met al die water en modder ondergrond so bly maar weg as jy kan of hou spaar skoene by die huis

Wel, Ek het my Luxie nou al vir 'n jaar, my eerste Lux(was voorheen 'n Landy lover - het 5 van die goed gehad - fantasties in chalenges maar 'n m^%rse chalenge om aan die ry te hou).
Gekoop vir 55K op 213000km nou op 230000km. Was al 'n paar keer in Moz en by Hennops 4x4 maar het nognie begin chalenges ry nie, baie impressed met haar capabilities.

Sover het sy my net 'n battery en baie bier gekos(Sy het nie 'n aircon nie )

Had my 89 SFA for two years now..its done 250000km and I dont actually think I have had to replace anything over a few hundred bucks. I have certainly spent more on "nice to haves". Replaced dizzy and HT leads yesterday cos the old female dog started farting

The only problem with my '91 model is that it keeps getting me into trouble. I bought Swambo a bottle of perfume for Christmas. 300 bucks !! for a spoonful of what looks like brake fluid. I bought my lux a set of rear springs for 3000 bucks, and now I am accused of loving "That dirty great truck" more than I love her.
I give up.
Ron.

Irishman wrote:I am accused of loving "That dirty great truck" more than I love her.

Get used to it Ron, I get that all the time... I am sure there are quite a few other guys here that also get the same...

I also get the "IF you had to choose between your Hilux and ME you would of course choose the Hilux..... " thing a lot. And of course she is right!! The Hilux does what you ask it to do, willingly, whenever you want to do it, and without talking back, and it very rarely has head-aches...

But still, I love them both..

I also get the "IF you had to choose between your Hilux and ME you would of course choose the Hilux..... " thing a lot. And of course she is right!! The Hilux does what you ask it to do, willingly, whenever you want to do it, and without talking back, and it very rarely has head-aches...

And of course with your years of experience you're spot on as always, Thuys!!

loving "That dirty great truck" more than I love her.

Hey Ron, perhaps you'd better wash her, ... the truck I mean!

cos the old female dog started farting

Hope youre talking of your wife, Tweetie!!

Ek het my hilux 2.8d in 1997 nuut gekoop. Het nou 510 000km op. Die volgende is al gedoen.

1. Termostaat 3 keer
2. Engine vervang op 380 000 km ( cluth ook vervang vir eerste keer met 50% lewe oor )
3. Ratkas seel 1 keer
4. Drade brand uit van voor tot agter
5. Roes by dak geut en op bak langs modderskerms
6. Seels op voor as hubs vervang 1 keer
7. Propshaft vervang 1 keer
8. Water pomp 1 keer

Sy het my net een keer laat staan met die eerste engin wat gebreek het.
Lank sal sy nog lewe

Haai Meiring Long time no hear, so hoe loop jou beer nog? Na die petrol pomp episode het sy toe verder haar goed gedra?

160 000km service
Brake pads rear drum,
Glow plug x1,
rear shackle bushes x8
major service,total lube and oil, brake fluid, diff/gearbox oil etc.
Tming belt done at 148000km so I will only do later before 200 000km. Heard it is wise not to take a chance and do it regular, not wait for every 100 000km.

Hi Bennie

Net so in kort vir die ander lesers ook. Ek het laas jaar vir my 'n 89 4y D/C ook gekoop en met Bennie se hulp brandstof inspuiting opgesit. Desember was ons Kalagadi en Namibia toe. Op pad het ons so 15 keer gaan staan vir so 10 min elk. Die probleem, die petrol pomp het net opgehou pomp, maar na ek dit afkoel met water loop sy weer. Na 'n nuwe het die probleem voortgegaan. My verklaring is dat die temperatuur van die petrol in die sisteem te warm word want dit gebeur net wanneer die buite temperature bokant 39 grade gaan. Hier by Mosselbaai het dit nog nooit gebeur nie.

Toe ek vir Vlakvark gekoop het het sy maar net 160 000 km gehad (na twintig jaar). Ek is die tweede eienaar. Ek het net senter bearing op die dryfas vervang en seels op die linker agter rem.

Meiring

Kyk na jou pick up in die tank en die pyp na die pomp. Miskien moet jy loer of iets nie die pick up restrict nie of anders moet jy dit groter maak. Ek twyfel of al jou petrol so warm kan word tensy jou exhaust teen die tank verby loop. Gewoonlik raak pompe warm as hy te veel sukkel om petrol gesuig te kry uit die tank, nie sommer vir ander redes nie.

Bennie

Ek het al die pype nagegaan ( die toevoer na die pomp en die terug vloei na die tank ). Die petrol loop vrylik deur. Ek het ook 'n druk meter op die lyn gesit om te sien wat gebeur. Die petrol pomp loop mooi, dan skielik val die druk na zero en dit net bokant 'n sekere temperatuur. Dan koel ek die pomp af en daar werk dit weer. Die tank en pype is ver weg van die exust.
Dit gebeur met albei my pompe. Toyota pomp en Midas pomp

Whippet wrote:Bennie

Ek het al die pype nagegaan ( die toevoer na die pomp en die terug vloei na die tank ). Die petrol loop vrylik deur. Ek het ook 'n druk meter op die lyn gesit om te sien wat gebeur. Die petrol pomp loop mooi, dan skielik val die druk na zero en dit net bokant 'n sekere temperatuur. Dan koel ek die pomp af en daar werk dit weer. Die tank en pype is ver weg van die exust.
Dit gebeur met albei my pompe. Toyota pomp en Midas pomp

Hi Whippet,

I would suggest replacing the 6mm ID pipe from the tank to the pump with something like 10mm ID... it may be that the HP pump is battling against the resistance of the smaller ID pipe, thereby generating extra load/heat... on my EFi conversion I'm running 10mm ID pipe from inside the tank to the HP pipe and 8mm from the HP pump to the fuel rail... I did have an issue when the elcheapo HP pump(R 350buck Ryan pump) packed up, I have since replaced it with a new Bosch heavy duty one and all is running well! Your other option is to install an intank VDO submersible pump, then fuel in the tank acts as a coolant... and it's very quiet... only pain is if it gives hassles in the middle of nowhere, you got to drop the fuel tank to get to it... could always put an inspection plate in the loadbin to access the intank pump from above...

B

Hi gents, I noticed that "Dads Toy BFI" has installed a new Korean 4Y EFI. I have just done the same after buying an old 86 DC 4X4 SLA. It had a Ford V6 which was done so I have installed the new engine. It came form Manderine Spares in Pta with the computer box and a complete vehicle harnass. Do any of you guys know how to wire this thing up? I am in Durban and need some advice please.

Peter, Dadz fitted a korean 4Y... without EFi... the EFi'ing was a seperate conversion from carb to fuel injection...

Fire away with your questions, there's plenty of guys here who are up-to-scratch with 4Y's and EFi in general!

B

Pete you came to the right place, and let me tell you, Dadz Toy and Snipes, they know everything there is to know about 4y's korean and original and how to EFI them. make sure to get hold of them and they will set you straight in no time... In the mean time there are a few threads on how they did it, so poke around a little and get the low-down so long until they come on-line again. If these guys can't help you you can ask Bennie (BenHur) he might have some answers for you too.

The EFi conversions we have done are mainly based on the Dicktator STD aftermarket ecu. Using the original ECU is a bit more complicated as it utilises a TPS(throttle position sensor), airflow meter of sorts, and a few other sensors... it may well make sense to toss the original ECU and fit a Dicktator... remember the 4Y EFi was never sold in SA, so the ECU is not tuned for local conditions and may therefore not be 100% suitable, as it cannot be mapped(tuned)... it has a preloaded map. The Dicktator STD ecu is not that expensive, last time I checked it was R 2100...

B

Thanks for the tip. Where can I get a Diktator in DBN and do you know of any guys in the DBN are who can commission the installation? :x

Oh ja I forgot to add that the engine is complete with all the components, tpi etc... so I am connecting everything up this week end. The fuel tank is back in after the acid wash and I will let the forum know if it runs and whether it runs well enough to tell people about. I am new to all of this but maybe have some confidence in the fact that everything is factory fitted, the electronic ignition, sensors etc...I am advised that this is a plugin unit that runs the Taxi industry. All will be revealed sometime on Saturday. Point taken that the mapping is preset???
I had a SFA back in the 90's and had to sell it when I changed wife for girl friend. I have owned a Disco V8, Colt Rodeo etc... but have always missed the honesty of the SFA.I have had the body de rusted and resprayed, I re upholsterd the interior with game viewer style fabric . A whole lot of other little details have been re done(owch on the pocket) but almost on the home straight. Great forum.

Hi gents, My 2200 hilux is dead,she looses power up hill dramaticlly,
Its my 1st bukkie and need to take her places :D
also when I lock the diff she shudders, and its sceary.on some occasions she's quite.Whats the cause of that.

yoit,gents and bullies.
need to find out how to improve the power of my hilux.
she dont wana move like i would of expected her to :evil:
please help.lolololo

coz it can wrote: also when I lock the diff she shudders, and its sceary.on some occasions she's quite.Whats the cause of that.

On what surface where you driving and at what speed?