Hilux 4x4 Forum

coz it can wrote:yoit,gents and bullies.
need to find out how to improve the power of my hilux.
she dont wana move like i would of expected her to :evil:
please help.lolololo

Hi Shuaib

Improving the performance of the 4Y engine has been discussed at length, do a search for 4Y EFi, and cold air induction, you should find alot of information on these performance conversions!

mr b

Shamrock wrote:

coz it can wrote: also when I lock the diff she shudders, and its sceary.on some occasions she's quite.Whats the cause of that.

On what surface where you driving and at what speed?

On beach sand and off road.And I am now kynda sick of it.
Looking to swop it for a 2.8d.
BTW whats EFI.Dont know if my van has it.
yes I know...I'm abit green when it comes to 4x4.Its my first one and i'm learning

Hi Shuaib

Improving the performance of the 4Y engine has been discussed at length, do a search for 4Y EFi, and cold air induction, you should find alot of information on these performance conversions!

mr b [/quote]

Howzit.Thanks dude, will defnitly do the search.
Just a quick1,how many km's should I be getting on a tank.
cause at the moment i get 250 :x :evil: of a full tank.(50l) and its hurting the pocket if you know wat i mean

Stop waisting money ,time ,and effort just install a MANUAL Lexus conversion and all your problems are over .

coz it can wrote:a full tank.(50l)

Why did you put in a smaller tank?? :wth:

Shuaib, just in case you have'nt yet picked up on it, EFi = Electronic Fuel Injection ...... and there's definitely something amiss with that poor fuel economy, Yeah the 4Y is thirsty, but not that thirsty!

coz it can wrote:cause at the moment i get 250 :x :evil: of a full tank.(50l) and its hurting the pocket if you know wat i mean

Hi Shuaib,

The stock standard SFA has a 65ltr tank! But... from the fuel gauge needle pointing to full down to empty is about 42-45 litres(depending on gauge calibration), the jap's decided that a 20-25 litre reserve is nessecary for these vehicles... that I believe has nothing to do with the angles that these vehicles are expected to operate at continously...

mr b

conversion man wrote:Stop waisting money ,time ,and effort just install a MANUAL Lexus conversion and all your problems are over .

How much is that gonna cost me Dude,Sounds tempting

1.Guys i cant thank yourll enough. what decent gentlemen.thank you.
2. Now...where can i get myself a long range tank and an EFI system fitted.I in Durban.
And if any of your'll are in or around the area, and frequently go "bundu bashing" 4x4-ing please let me know, would love to join, and learn.
\And remember im still young and green

mr B, you've got a 2.2,correct.
what EFI system do you have and how do I get one fitted.

Shuaib,

Most of guys that have fuel injected there 4Y's have done it via information available on the forum. The cost is in the region on 13K, we use the 3Y's EFi hardware(intake, plenum, fuel rail, injectors, etc.), a customised electronic distributor, and the Dicktator EMU...

Thread on Kaapies EFi conversions(Bolt and Dadz): viewtopic.php?f=3&t=3775&hilit=efi&start=20

Thread on F_D's EFi conversion(the forum efi pioneering conversion):
chapter 1: viewtopic.php?f=34&t=676
chapter 2: viewtopic.php?f=34&t=1172

Thread about the components needed: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=7773&p=84874&hilit=efi#p84874

If you scratch aroundd the older threads of the forum, theres tons of info!

mr b

coz it can wrote:1.Guys i cant thank yourll enough. what decent gentlemen.thank you.
2. Now...where can i get myself a long range tank and an EFI system fitted.I in Durban.
And if any of your'll are in or around the area, and frequently go "bundu bashing" 4x4-ing please let me know, would love to join, and learn.
\And remember im still young and green

Shuaib, there are a few guys in your area ... look out for Piet (Bushwacker) on the forum or send him a PM (Private Message).

Good to have you aboard!

thanks mud dog(andy) I sure will get hold of bushwacker
the most ive done is driving on the beach sand when I go fishing.
Thanks again to all who helped me

Enjoy!

Guy's...1 more thing. :shifty:
Is it posible for me to tension my suspension leaves at home.(d.i.y. way) :!:
and if any of your'll have a set lying around at home could I buy it of your'll.
(for the front of the van)
or whats the price to tension them up...cause I got a quote of R985 each.
Which is kynda ridiculous.
And would a branch and freeflow help with climbing hills

coz it can wrote:Guy's...1 more thing. :shifty: \

◙ Is it posible for me to tension my suspension leaves at home.(d.i.y. way) :!:

♦ and if any of your'll have a set lying around at home could I buy it of your'll.
(for the front of the van)

♦or whats the price to tension them up...cause I got a quote of R985 each.
Which is kynda ridiculous.

♦And would a branch and freeflow help with climbing hills

I thought you said "one more thing" ..
To actually re-tension them is not just something you can do at home unless you have a forging oven set up in your garage. The guys that do this use regulated high temps to anneal, reshape and then re-tension the steel, and it's never as good as the factory job. All these re-tensioning jobs end up sagging again in a short space of time. IMHO it would be better to do it yourself by re-shaping the leaves without re-tensioning. The factory tension is mostly still there, just the shape has flattened out a bit over time. To do this you would have to remove and dis-assemble the leaf packs without mixing up any blades, each one must go back on the same side it came off. The individual leaves are then beaten on a bed of sand to conform to an arc that you scibe out on a board or your garage floor. This arc would be made only fractionally tighter than that of the blade with the tightest curve. Re-assemble and re-fit.

A branch and freeflow will help although it's not always that significant. EFI would be better if you can afford it.

thanks again boetie.
EFI's are flipping expensive.branch is my only option for now,unfortunatly.
but im saving up for the EFI

Don't worry to much about the branch and free flow... these alone don't make much difference... but if you want a little better performance you can do the following:

1. Powerflow stainless steel 48mm ID exhaust with 2 freeflow boxes, don't go over 48mm... it just gets noisier and you loose torque...
2. Fit the brospeed branch... but do it in conjunction with a cam:
3. Source a brospeed type cam, that is re-degreed to maintain the low rpm torque... the normal brospeed cams are crr@pp... if you need to source one you can contact Malcolm Hartley of MasterCams in Cape Town... get it nitrided...

Once you have done these mods, you will have to alter the timing a bit, to about 8-10 degrees, normally it's 4-6 degrees BTDC... and then possibly fit slightly larger main jets than the standard ones... of course your fuel consumption will suffer a bit then!

mr b

Hey guy's...Me again.(your'll must think I'm full of questions and queries...lol.)
I've been advised by a mate to change my 2200 for a 7MGTE or 7MGE cressida engine.
Will I have hasels with this mod or will it run smoothly,and will my gear box be-able to run with the new motor or not...

coz it can wrote:Hey guy's...Me again.(your'll must think I'm full of questions and queries...lol.)
I've been advised by a mate to change my 2200 for a 7MGTE or 7MGE cressida engine.

Do not do the 7MGTE. unless you want to use your hilux for drag races.

coz it can wrote:Will I have hasels with this mod

initially as with any major modification you will experience some growing pains but in the long run it is worth it.

coz it can wrote:will it run smoothly

Eventually it will be sorted and you'll get lots of fun out of it.

coz it can wrote:will my gear box be-able to run with the new motor or not...

Yes on the 7MGE - NO on the 7MGTE..

Ewald, tell the man about your experiences.

What do you mean by growing pains... :problem:

What Bretton means is that with any conversion there are always little oversights that need to be attended to and often some aspects of the modification need to be altered or tweaked. These are normally things that arrise once the vehicle is in use .... you notice this, then you notice that etc. etc. ...... growing pains.

Mud Dog wrote:What Bretton means is that with any conversion there are always little oversights that need to be attended to and often some aspects of the modification need to be altered or tweaked. These are normally things that arrise once the vehicle is in use .... you notice this, then you notice that etc. etc. ...... growing pains.

Ah hah

Mud Dog wrote:What Bretton means is that with any conversion there are always little oversights that need to be attended to and often some aspects of the modification need to be altered or tweaked. These are normally things that arrise once the vehicle is in use .... you notice this, then you notice that etc. etc. ...... growing pains.

Hey Andy... you putting words in my mouth?? :problem:

You mean... 'What Thys means'...
:D

RustyRod wrote:

Mud Dog wrote:What Bretton means is that with any conversion there are always little oversights that need to be attended to and often some aspects of the modification need to be altered or tweaked. These are normally things that arrise once the vehicle is in use .... you notice this, then you notice that etc. etc. ...... growing pains.

Hey Andy... you putting words in my mouth?? :problem:

You mean... 'What Thys means'...
:D

Sorry, Man! Must've had a senior moment again!

mwhugovr wrote:Herewith all expenses and items I had replaced on Agteros my '86 2200DC 4Y since Feb 2000 (tme when I bought it). I bought it on 150000km - it now has 212000km. It is still on the Firestone ATX's I bought it with - I reckon they will do another 20000km.

Apart from fuel and insurance and relicensing this was the only expenses. OK, I also fitted full OME on the 2/28/2003 at a cost of R 15121-60.
You will note - no expenses on drivetrain and engine. Agteros is using about 500ml of oil on 4000km.
I exclusively use it on hunting trips and 4x4 trails which is mostly associated with the ones associated with game parks as I don't like to go "off-road" just for the sake of it. Also have the FT 4.0 V6 4x4, RunX Sport (my wife's car) and Astra 200iE which I use for everyday use.

3/10/2000 Front Bearings 207.48
4/1/2000 Thermostat 101.53
29/6/2000 Service 791.05
5/4/2001 Alternator 378.33
7/18/2002 Plugs, points,condensor 177.00
1/14/2003 New Clutch 1580.00
1/25/2003 Fix Xhaust 120.00
6/11/2003 Wheel Allignment 120.00
10/23/2003 Service 643.49
11/10/2003 Fuel Pump 200.00
12/7/2004 New Radiator 1462.47
12/9/2004 New Battery 480.00
4/15/2005 Service 672.94
1/24/2006 Fix Xhaust 250.00
11/1/2006 Service 672.11
1/17/2007 Wheel Bearing Back 205.20
1/19/2007 Service&wheel bearing 1460.96
6/5/2007 New StainS Xhaust 2200.00
Total 11722.56

OK I can now add:

1. New Chevy valve lifters @ R530
2. New head skim and HG R2840
3. New BFG AT's R 5520

Hi Guy's...I've finally sorted 90% of the struffs on the sweetheart...and she is now running strong...still getting used to the passiveness of the 4Y :x ...gonna take me long-I know lol-Thank you guy's for all the advice and tips highly appreciate it...what i'd do without your'll hey (don't tell the mrs I said that-or else theres no supper tonight...lol)I've up-loaded some peeeechaaaz of her and I spending quality time on the beach...

I'm Boeta Mac and completely new to this forum. I drive a 1996 2,8d d/c raider 4x2.

My question is what is a SFA hilux

Hi Llewellyn and welcome!
(Using capslock / upper case is like shouting.)
SFA = Solid Front Axle (doesn't apply to 2x4 vehicles)
IFS = Independent Front Suspension

Hi Boeta Mac, welcome to the forum.

SFA is an acronym for "Solid Front Axle", as opposed to practically all modern 4x4bies, which are Independent Front Suspension, or IFS.

SFA provides a harsher ride than IFS and is heavier. No doubt more expensive to manufacture too. But it does provide far superior off road use, as when one side lifts up, the other digs deeper into the trail, thereby offering good traction. That does not happen with IFS suspension. Also, articulation is far better too.


-F_D

still nothing major with engine or turbo. MInor wear and tear so hopefully will carry on.

John, that's just run in now ... lotta life left there!

yip still standard and still like no other 4x4, only the tyres not std

96 hilux 2.8D 3L well actlluy never been stuck on the road with this van... got from brandnew.... milage is 628000.00km been to botswana mozambique capetown pe iesh just bout everywhere this hilux been... gearbox done twice my fault tho i overload alot... besyd service every 10000kms oil-ring broke after she was parked for 6months was having her totaly refubrished front to back... thats when oil ring broke on inital start up hence i needed to do the engine which is to costly so i got myself a 5L thats going in there by end of this week.... had starter recon alternator brushes done regulator changed. orginal propshaft still on the van with the high milage. other than that i lyk it more than current 3.0d4d :)

myne is 'n '90 4Y SFA 4x4 D/C, ek't hom gekry op 146 000 en het hom nou eers self 25 000 km's opgesit, dis nou nie naastenby so baie kilo's soos die "veterans" nie, maar ek't al bietjie reg gemaak... probleme so ver:

waterpomp vervang (die was nie stukkend nie, net vir ingeval)
clutch master en slave cylinders nuut ingesit
clutch plaat
waterpyp gebars van radiator af

dis min nog so ver, maar my meisie kos my meer as dit en ek verkies eerder my SFA se geselskap...

hey peeps...wats ghappening...
hope yourll can help...I need a diagram of the vaccum hose pipes for the NIKKI carb...need to know exactly what SUCKS & WHAT BLOWS ...LOL
Tial and error :alvarin: drove me nutts and wasted alota fuel :evil:
pleeesse HELP

Engine:
Met 2nd owner while back (woman) and told be they overhauled engine somewhere along the line. did not give details. pistons and rings replaced on about 290 000. Top skimmed
Radiator replaced
waterpump replaced

Fuel system:
Feint smell of fuel after refuelling but reckon filler pipe needs replacement

Electrical system:
starter motor acts up once in a blue moon. normally works after rocking bakkie back and forth
idiot did rewiring of back lights (looked DIY) and after paying auto elec it seemed to work correct


Drive train:
replace centre bearing on the prop shaft.
Clutch replaced
drive shafts
brake drums
can't remember everything but the bill was 25k....

Body:
Loads of rust aka "Roeskol". Blerrie salty air in Cape town and standing hours at end at the sea side...
Loadbin area behind cab bent - not sure how that happened.
Few dents - I reversed into lamppost after 2007 world cup. I blame insufficient lighting in the parking terrain

Comments: otherwise still going strong - but will get Hoppy to do a strip search soon

200 000km service and repairs
Cambelt replacement and tensioners : R2648
A/C tensionar bearing R73
major service dyno power testing and replace all fluids(diffs, brake, radiotor,gearbox etc), grease, including flushing radiator : R4035
front brake pads and skim : R1084

Jobs pick up on inspection, will be done next tuesday as ran out time
gearbox mounting, turbo gasket, check propshaft universal play.

Engine still runs like a dream

Problems, what problems?

I bought an 89 2200 that had been severly abused by previous owner. A whining 5th gear , towbar and winch mount indicated this vehicles previous life was spent launching a boat and towing long distance as a holiday vehicle. The rust (most surface) also says it probably took a number of dips in the ocean.

The Lux had 430 000km on the clock and drove home the day I bought it (about 300km). I serviced him (Matshwane) at home, loaded my worldy possesions and wife and proceeded to move to Maun in Botswana. Despite a weber carb in seriously poor state, a rotten exhaust (replaced in JHB en-route) and a suspension basically rusted solid the Lux carted us and our lives over 2500km to Botswana. While living in Bots we made a number of trips in to the Delta and only problem encountered were leaky hub seals.

Shortly before returning home I had to have the brakes done as there was not much disc left (let alone pads). This was attended and we proceeded to relocate to Cape Town (via the Eastern Cape). This journey of over 3500km went trouble free, despite a 1 ton trailer loaded to the hilt. The lux rumbled on and we arrived in the Cape.

The ODO now reads 449000km and I have had to fix the wiring on the taillight cluster. This vehicle is unbelievably tough. I have decided to honour it with some major work at 450000km , it deserves it. Oil consumption is around 500ml per 5000km to date. It puffs a little on hills and there is some indication of oil seep on cylinder 1. Otherwise it just keeps on ticking!!!!

My SFA Hilux has recently decided to adapt LAND ROVER genes...

Its standing more in the garage with problems than it is on the road..........Constantly something else that suddenly gives in!!!!

Maybe a match should solve the problem or I should hammer the daylights out of it more often on road and offroad!!!!

start this topic again,our 96 d\c 22R bought in 98 with 18500 km now 290000km very similar probs, fuel pump failed fitted a pirate no good eventually found a genuine one. many sets of fan belts looks like the air con belt breaks and troughs the others off. now on 3rd centre prop shaft bearing, must buy genuine part. never get more than 40k km on rear brake linings. engine run on after switching off, that stopped after SAC gas flowed head and fitted branch and exhaust, they said it was an idling jet problem!!! have an idea the vacuum advance was sticking and not retarding fast enough after switch off. all and all considering where the truck has been very trivial problems only the fuel pump stopped us on the road . we have long given up on trying to better the fuel consumption 7km\lt open road 5km\lt in the bush 4 pulling the boat it's the only thing we have to pay for and a tyre now and then,a real bargain, licence fees have gone up +- 450 per year. I'am sure Bovu will last another 10years

My SFA Hilux 2.8 diesel has 241 000km on the clock. Only had to replace the head on 230 000km and then also reconditioned the radiator. I also replaced the clutch master cylinder about 2000km ago. The pilot bearing is starting to make a noise, so when I replace that, I will also replace the clutch. And thats it. Never had a breakdown or any misshaps.

Oom dan, the engine run-on issue you mentioned, is 99% of the time, a dirty electrical connector/loose wire on the idle cut-off solenoid circuit. Usually very easy to fix!

hello mr T have had to use bad fuel (20% paraffin!!!) who knows, in southern africa always thought that was the reason, heavy picking had to stall truck to switch it off. must say never solved the problem but since SAC did their thing alls good will check the circuit as you say thanks

240 000km, 1997, 2.4

In last 20 000km's that i have been owner -

Replaced el cheapo radiator with OEM Baehr
Fitted new Williard battery
Changed spark plug cap
Fitted new Bendix brake pads
Fitted new Sachs clutch.

Things to do this year -

Centre bearing replacement, propshaft servicing
Replace faulty voltage regulator and have some small issues sorted out by autoelec
Check out possible leaking exhaust manifold gasket
Perhaps do front wheel seals and bearings

Must add that i have been very happy with my SFA. It is super reliable and has never let me down or left me standed. it has had all its services by Toyota until 180 000km and since then i have given it a major service each 20 000 km.

Only used for trips and never used for any real 4x4 work i tend to baby it and want to keep it in the original and immaculate condition that it is today

Do you guys have any recommendations as to where the jobs i listed for this year can perhaps be carried out best in the Gauteng or Pretoria area?

Hi Guys and Guyesses...Our 2700i has developed a rattling noise coming from the drivetrain on pull away specially but not only then..sometimes hear it just driving along.I have checked all the plates and brackets..seems the only culprit can be the propshaft? Any hints and advice from someone more experienced than me(won't be too hard)? It's a LWB 4X2 Raider that otherwise runs like a Toyota but that marbles in a blik noise is driving us nuts! Help...

Heavy on fuel

I have done now 80 000kms of the 230 000 that the clock shows. Not missing a beat - even toured the entire Namibia with a blown headgasket (without knowing). Never let me down - never!

they're slow ?

JEEPIE wrote:they're slow ?

Very slow - if it sees a little uphill it feels like an elephant had jumped on the back of the bak.

Shuaib, I had the same problem on my previous Lux...Start off by checking your fuel filter. Unclip & shake out into your hand...if petrol dirty then replace filter.

96 D/C 4x4 .
No major problems yet .
Changed all oils .
To do : Change front axle seals . as started leaking on to disc brake on passenger side causing brakes to lock up when i brake .

Problems , current : As of yesterday cant get her into gear when engine is running , hot or cold makes no difference . Need advice !

Parts . =-R700 on spare fanbelt , filters , gearbox and engine and rear diff oils .

ordered parts : R200 for diff oil seal R490 for knuckle dust covers x2 .

R1957.00 quoted on transfer case rear propshaft . price including seal, washer, nut , Flange , oil t seal .
The flange itself is R1400 with a 20% discount .(havent purchased yet ) .

Hi all
Asked before but does anyone have any indie contact in JHB preferably northern suburbs. Have a fair amount of maintenance to have done mostly preventative. 1995 Raider 22R twin cab at about 220k kms.Vehicle was used from 1996 to 2012 on overlanding trips and since drives about 60 kms once a week on freeway and 80 km roads and not stop start.

Have a landcruiser 79 vehicle for overlanding trips now that is self serviced with any more difficult job done by Anton Wessels Motors in Boksburg and v happy with him after reference on LCCSA forum.

Why not let Anton Wessels look after the Lux as well? You seem to have trust in him.
Alternatively you can speak to Louis Zanoli at 4x4Direct Centurion 012-653-3208 or 071-697-6579 | Whatsapp 081-590-0479
Louis knows these vehicles very well but I don't think he operates a workshop any more (I might be wrong). Either way he can help troubleshoot or point you in the direction of someone.

Hi Mud Dog

Thanks again for advice - much appreciated. Will contact and update later.