hilux verloor krag!

ecotech · Post by **ecotech** » Sun Oct 19, 2008 11:18 pm

ek het n toyota hilux 3.0 kzte en ek verstaan iets nie lekker nie. as dit koud of koel is trek die ding soos n "bat out of hell" en as dit warm is is die ding soos n steeks donkie. ek het al gewonder of dit die turbo is en dit laat toets. die turbo is reg. ek het al die engine laat oordoen en dit sluit als in, van kop tot tone. ek gee nou moed op en is op die punt om die stuk diesel gemors op n ashoop te smyt en n 3l toyota camry of cressida motor in te sit en heeltemal weg te kom van diesel en turbo`s af. enige hulp daar buite asb.

ThysdJ · Post by **ThysdJ** » Mon Oct 20, 2008 6:55 am

Welkom hier by die forum Martin... Hier sal jy beslis iemand kry wat jou kan raad gee met jou dilemma.

Shimano · Post by **Shimano** » Mon Oct 20, 2008 9:41 am

Hi Martin,
Ek het die selfde probleem gehad veral as ek die lang pad vat. Ek die SAC intercooler laat insit en ek moet erken dit het n groot verskil gemaak. Die Lux trek nou met mening en dit bly so op die lang pad ook. Diesel verbruik ook heelwat beter as te vore.

Groete.

Niel · Post by **Niel** » Mon Oct 20, 2008 10:56 am

Wynand, het jy net die intercooler laat opsit of die power plug ook? Wat was die % verbetering in brandstof verbruik

Shimano · Post by **Shimano** » Mon Oct 20, 2008 11:14 am

Niel,
Ek het die chip ook laat insit. Diesel verbruik het verbeter vanaf n range van +/- 550km op n tenk tot tans so 680km. Dit is nou nie oop pad nie maar in die dorp rond met verkeer in oggend en middag. (tussen huis en werk)
Krag lewering het baie verbeter - sleep boot en ek kan die veskil dadelik agterkom. Dyno lesing net duskant 400Nm na die mod.
Al wat my afsit is die intake van die intercooler dit lyk nie so goed nie veral met die TJM bumper staan die ding nogal uit.

ecotech · Post by **ecotech** » Mon Oct 20, 2008 7:41 pm

hi wynand,

ek wil nie regtig die R15000-00 gaan spandeer om die intercooler roete en n power plug te doen en die lux trek nogsteeds soos n donkie nie. o ja het ek vergeet om te se dis n 4x2 met n landcruiser diff. die hilux se diff is te swak vir sleep en vir 4x4 roetes. ek kry meer gedoen met die cruiser diff alhoewel my handbriek maar aan die pap kant is. ek het dit oorweeg om die camry 3l petrol engine of die lexus v8 roete te gaan maar ek weet nie watter 1 die beste gaan wees nie want die lux is my daaglikse vervoer en wil die mees bekostigbare roete sowel as die beste roete volg. ek voel net die diesel is n donkie wat net nie die wilskrag het nie.

Scorpion · Post by **Scorpion** » Mon Oct 20, 2008 7:48 pm

The Lexus is a great conversion, but needs to be done right, otherwise it will give you endless problems! I also doubt if the Camry motor is worth it, since it was longitudally mounted and I don't think it will fit in the engine bay. The other opstions are 3RZ (2.7i) ot the 7M. Just be aware of the overheating problems if this one isn't done right either - just ask Kaspaas...

ecotech · Post by **ecotech** » Mon Oct 20, 2008 8:03 pm

thank you for the advise. the question is what would you do in my shoes? v8 or 6 cylinder? i have more faith in a old ford v6 engine then this lump in the engine bay. no power, no rpm`s, and heavy diesel consumption. i am happy with the lux but the power issue is getting to me. i will not sell my lux but i need to do like captain kurk said on star trek, " i need more power "

Scorpion · Post by **Scorpion** » Mon Oct 20, 2008 8:30 pm

Martin, no problem! I will go V8 any day, but like I said - it has to be done right. Blom is busy fitting a V8 into my SFA and we should be up and running soon. I'll give you real live feedback then.

ThysdJ · Post by **ThysdJ** » Mon Oct 20, 2008 8:42 pm

Martin... you have many options, and you will get as many opinions from members of the forum too. I have, however, survived 1 x original 2.8D Hilux, 1 x 4y Hilux converted to a Ford 3.0 V6, and I am busy trying my level best to outlive/survive a 7MGE Hilux. The Camry wont work because the configuration of the coolant pipes are not right to have it mounted longitudinaly.

Here are some basic pointers to remember when planning/contemplating an engine conversion. Johann, Benny, and others that went thru this process before can maybe add some of the stuff I forget?

Rule 1 of Conversions: Conversions must always be done by people with experience in doing them, otherwise you are wasting your money, time and you will grow old before all the small niggly's are sorted out. You will also develop an unstoppable desire to start playing with matches in close proximity of the fuel tank of your converted vehicle.

Rule 2 of Conversions: Realise up front that it will take at least 30% longer to complete and you will spend at least 30% more than budgeted on the conversion. Also realise up front that other part of the vehicle might also need to be upgraded/converted to make the conversion work. Here we talk specifically of suspensions in the front to accommodate increase in weight of the new motor, drivetrain to accommodate more power, brakes, etc etc..

Rule 3 of Conversions: You are going to loose your money. Nobody buys a converted vehicle for "bookie" price. So if you build it you have to get maximum use out of it.

Each one of the possible engines mentioned by Johann below will work, but if you ignore the rule above you do so at your own peril.

Hope this helps Martin...

Dadz Toy BFI · Post by **Dadz Toy BFI** » Mon Oct 20, 2008 9:07 pm

Rule 2 - that's a conservative 30% ($$$) mos nÃª

(mine was closer to 60% more $$$)

Martin

I thought long and hard for about 8 months considering the big question "which Conversion".

:roll:

My heart said: 7MGE 8)
My Ego said: V8 :roll:
My mechanic said: Mazda 2.5D

My most trusted mech friend said: Ford V6 :?

My advice would be: take all the advice you can get, go see and/or drive converted vehicles esp. on Trails and when you've made up your mind question your decision, keep your mind "open" till the last minute.

I don't think the quest is to find "the perfect conversion"

but rather:

Which conversion which will best suite your needs.

Remembering my needs/his needs/their needs aren't necessary your needs

Fortunately for you there's lots of great okes here on this great forum who've done the various conversions and will be happy to guide you rather than trying to re-invent the wheel everytime

Hope this helps, best o' luck

Rich

Scorpion · Post by **Scorpion** » Mon Oct 20, 2008 9:47 pm

Wise words indeed, Rich!

I have to say that I haven't heard of a lot of KZ's giving trouble, so it might be wortj your while to take it to Toyota and let them check it out. The cost might be a lot less than a fullblown conversion.

ThysdJ · Post by **ThysdJ** » Tue Oct 21, 2008 7:05 am

Martin, I agree with Johann, firstly let Toyota see if they can fix what you have, secondly if they can't fix it then sell it and buy a different one, and only lastly, if you cannot find a suitable one you take the plunge and you build one, to your specifications.

The different types/makes of motors one can install has been discussed here on the forum in various threads, so a little bit of looking around will get you a lot of valuable information about each engine, and the special "needs" to make them work in a Hilux.

Good luck

ecotech · Post by **ecotech** » Tue Oct 21, 2008 12:18 pm

thanx for the advise thus far. i had hitler to toyota and they say there are nothing wrong with the vehicle. they say that the boost, power and god knows what ever gets regulated by the computer box. now my quesion is how? ok i can understand timing and so forth but not boost. they say that is how a kzte runs and to me thats pethetic cause a damn isuzu kb250 outruns me on a incline. now if thats the power toyota supplies then i rather look for power from another source. i have never stood back for a petrol engine but i have to say i dont know diesel. its as easy as pie to remove the old lump out of hitler and transplant a petrol engine and do a stand alone engine management system. my only worry is what will fit directly on hitlers box without going the adapterplate route from gilo engeneering.

Liaan · Post by **Liaan** » Tue Oct 21, 2008 4:03 pm

Is die Cruiser dif dieselfde ratio as die oorspronklike dif, kry jou bakkie by ordentlike diesel ouens.

'n 2.4d Toyota laat 'n 250d Isuzu koud teen 'n bult, so ek dink iets snaaks is fout.

ecotech · Post by **ecotech** » Tue Oct 21, 2008 9:44 pm

nee die cruiser diff is swarder gera as die hilux diff en twee keer seo sterk. wel ek weet nie meer na wie toe om hitler toe te vat nie want ek raak nou moeg vir n lykswa en soek my krag. bosch diesel kry nie fout nie, toyota krynie fout nie, diesel tech kry ie fout nie en die lys gaan aan. dink sterk aan die ford v6 transplant. dis goedkoop, maklik om aan te werk en vrlik beskikbaar. maar ek ponder nog

Scorpion · Post by **Scorpion** » Thu Oct 23, 2008 1:47 pm

Which Toyota did you try, Martin? I always recommend Monument in Constantia. Ask for George the workshop manager. I always had brilliant service from them.

ecotech · Post by **ecotech** » Thu Oct 23, 2008 2:58 pm

i have been to honeydew toyota, monument toyota, the branch in krugersdorp en constantia. everybody comes up with the same story. theres nothing wrong and the computerbox regulates everything. that story is geting a bit long in the tooth. i cant see that a intercooler and a powerplug will change my mind to keep the diesel lump thats causing me to be passed by, need i expand on this and you will laugh i know, a stupid 1300 opel corsa bakkie on the uphill at hillsnax towards krugersdorp. i felt like a twit to move for a sardine can but i had to

Scorpion · Post by **Scorpion** » Thu Oct 23, 2008 4:41 pm

You then have a "dud". I haven't ever seen a KZ battle up that hill - and I drive it at least twice a week!

ecotech · Post by **ecotech** » Thu Oct 23, 2008 4:58 pm

it seems to me you are close to me. i think if you could drive hitler and feel for yourselve you would see what i am talking about. interrested? maybe your veiw and mine are different

Scorpion · Post by **Scorpion** » Thu Oct 23, 2008 5:21 pm

Martin, I live in Randpark Ridge, so yes, quite close. I haven't driven a KZ in a while, but I'll be happy to give you an "independant" opinion. But I warn you, I'm not a very big diesel fan...

ecotech · Post by **ecotech** » Thu Oct 23, 2008 6:00 pm

you see. my point aswell. i thought of the diesel as a major power plant but it failed horribly. if it wasnt for the drive by wire throttle of the kzte i would have changed it ages go but the electronic throttle control still bogs my mind

Liaan · Post by **Liaan** » Fri Oct 24, 2008 9:18 pm

ecotech wrote:nee die cruiser diff is swarder gera as die hilux diff en twee keer seo sterk. wel ek weet nie meer na wie toe om hitler toe te vat nie want ek raak nou moeg vir n lykswa en soek my krag. bosch diesel kry nie fout nie, toyota krynie fout nie, diesel tech kry ie fout nie en die lys gaan aan. dink sterk aan die ford v6 transplant. dis goedkoop, maklik om aan te werk en vrlik beskikbaar. maar ek ponder nog

Ja die Cruiser dif sal sterker wees, is die ratverhoudings tussen die Cruiser en die Hilux laer of hoer?
MAW loop die bakkie nou teen hoer revs as jy 120 ry as tevore of teen laer revs?

ecotech · Post by **ecotech** » Sat Oct 25, 2008 10:09 pm

die laptop en ek gaan vas sit. nee die diff ratios tussen die hilux en die landcruiser is persies die selfde. ek het nie low range nie net die diff is en lyk somer net sterker. die brieke hou langer en soos gevra die rev`s wel geen verandering nie. die bakkie hardloop so +- 100km/h teen 2000 rpm en 120km/h teen 2300rpm. 170km/h is so 3300rpm maar net vir kort tye. die stik diesel lump hou nie daarvan nie. die enigste nadeel van die landcruiser diff is n patetiese handbriek want die kabel moet gemaak word en as hy rek soos myne het dan het jy amper geen handbriek nie.

Liaan · Post by **Liaan** » Sun Oct 26, 2008 9:10 am

Klink vir my na baie lae revs vir die spoed.

Hier is 'n stukkie uit die Steves Auto Clinic Website nadat hulle met 'n KZ besig was

'Teen 3 000 o.p.m. in vyfde rat teen 138 km/u is 'n....... '

Klink of jou ratio 'langer' is as normaal.

Ek haak nou vas op die rato ding maar eks oortuig dat jy die fout daar moet soek.

ecotech · Post by **ecotech** » Sun Oct 26, 2008 3:03 pm

dis n moontlikheid. ek wardeer alle informasie. ek dink dis dalk moontlki want ek kan lag lag oop pad so +- 160km/h haal, maar wat vir my snaaks is is my eerste is so vrek kort en dan tweede foel soos n ietwat langer en derde voel soos n ewigheid nog nie te praat van 4de en 5de nie. soos wat julle praat van cruising speed 100km/h moet ek in 4de doen want 5de is te laag op die rev counter. jy het dalk n geldige punt beet en het ek moontlik soos my gat gekyk toe ek na die ratios gekyk het en daar wel n verskil is. nie teenstaande gaan ek nie weer terug verander nie maar net my perde by n ander maak engine soek.

Scorpion · Post by **Scorpion** » Wed Oct 29, 2008 6:32 pm

So I drove Martin's diesel donkie today and I have to say, it is very pap (even for a KZ

). There is almost no power in the lower gears - you can't even take a corner in 2nd gear! I at first thought it had to be the diff ratio's playing havoc, as the Kz starts very easy with no smoke whatsoever. Martin also has a funny "Cruiser" axle with the pumpkin in the centre of the diff. I'm not 100% sure, but I don't think you get Cruiser axles with the centre pumpkin? The flipside of this is that he has power when the bakkie starts the first time in the morning, but after an hour or so driving, it's "pap"...

I'm stumped!

ecotech · Post by **ecotech** » Thu Oct 30, 2008 3:25 pm

johan nou het jy dit. dit is n donkie en ekt geen idee hoekom nie. is daar enige ander mense met deselfde probleem as ek? ek het verder gaan soek met die diff en dit is toe op ou laas nie n cruiser diff nie maar wel n d4d se diff dis die verskil. die diff het n paar veranderinge as die kzte diff maar pas persies en dis die lang en die kort daarvan. dankie aan een barmhartig samaritaan van honeydew toyota. hy is net so terug getrokke en verslae oor die krag isue en soos en aan hom en johan verduidelik het wil ek die ford v6 gaan en die responce was wat johan gese het. moenie!!!!!! verkoop die ding en koop n ander bakkie. wel dis die lang en die kort. nog so jaar uithou en dan maar gaan kyk vir n 30 d4d. dankie aan almal wat raad en advies gegee het.

HennieJ2 · Post by **HennieJ2** » Sat Nov 08, 2008 4:26 pm

Martin, I have a similar problem with my KZ. It is my 3rd KZ, but it is also the laziest of them all. What did help a bit, was to take it to Wildaf Diesel in Pretoria. The guy specializes on the KZ's and has the proper equipment. There are very few people in the country that has the computers to set these new pumps. What happened on one of my previous KZ's, is that the Toyota dealer fitted washers on the injectors and these guys don't take washers. My next step is to fit a Cirrus intercooler that is about R3 900 for a full D.I.Y kit (back of CAR magazine) and to fit a "cooler" thermostat, as mine is also going like a boeing, when it is cold and dead when it is hot. The one thing that I noticed, is that my operating heat is a little above half way mark, where the others were operating below the half-way mark. Another problem is, I have a D4D and maybe I compare the KZ against that. Regards, Hennie

HennieJ2 · Post by **HennieJ2** » Sat Nov 08, 2008 4:31 pm

http://www.cirruscoolers.com/index.aspx ... =1&pid=401
This is their website and they claim it takes about 2.5 hrs to fit

http://www.chiptuning.co.za/home/content/view/20/33/
Also some info on chips - they are in Robertville on the West Rand. I have a Kauftech from Germany, which they are the agents of.

ecotech · Post by **ecotech** » Sat Nov 08, 2008 8:17 pm

hennie ek gee moed op. ek gaan nie meer sukkel met die krag issue nie. ek gaan maar terug landrover toe. soos ek vantevore gese het smaak dit my toyota se voertuie is overated en in my oe, ja ek mag maar n dud he maar toyota is rubbish. al die handelaars warheen ek was kyn my nie n duidelikheid gee oor n diff nie en dan nie eens te praat van n bakkie wat swak is nie. ek dink landrover is the way to go en de hell met toyota.

BenHur · Post by **BenHur** » Sat Nov 08, 2008 9:05 pm

Ek dink nie dis heelemal fair om 'n hilux 2x4 met verkeerde dif ratio met 'n rand lover te vergelyk nie maar as 'n rand lover jou gelukkig maak geniet hom dan maar... :roll: :roll:

HennieJ2 · Post by **HennieJ2** » Sun Nov 23, 2008 10:47 am

Martin,
It took me a while to find this photo of my very 1st KZ. This was a 4x2 2001 D/C and the photo was taken on a slight downhill with hardly any wind. Time of dat was around mid day, therefore the temparture did'nt help much. End of story - not all KZ's are dead. This photo was taken after I had long fights with Toyota over hard starting , smoking and low power issues. When I confronted the w/shop manager and demanded to check while they tuned the bakkie, he admitted that they couldn't set the pump and he then referd me to Wildaf Diesel in Pretoria. Needles to say, after I got the bakkie back from him, it had more power on 120k km, than when I bought it at 25k km. I will keep you informed, that is if you still have your KZ, on what difference did a intercooler have on performance. I plan to fit one mid December.
Regards

Hennie

ecotech · Post by **ecotech** » Sun Nov 23, 2008 11:15 am

ok, thats all fair.....

i noticed your red line starts at 4500 rpm, and mine at 3500 rpm.....

next i dont have a problem running up to 180km/h once i am over 100km/h but its the trouble of getting to 100km/h fast enough. i think i have the slowest 0-100 time of +- 60 seconds........haha

no jokes aside......i battle low down and not at the top......

Liaan · Post by **Liaan** » Sun Nov 23, 2008 8:41 pm

As jy 'n D4d dif in het is jou ratio verseker verkeerd.

Jy het jou bakkie lui gemaak deur die verkeerde dif in hom in te sit.

Hou op kla oor 'n pap KZ en sit die regte Ratio dif in.

Die d4d enjin se torque en krag kurwe is heel anders as ' n kz.

Dus hoekom hulle langer ratio's gebruik.

My vorige Mpy voertuig was 'n D4d 3.0 SC en as reg onthou was hy so op 120 teen 2400rpm en 190 teen 3600rpm+-

Of koop dan 'n Landy.

ecotech · Post by **ecotech** » Sun Nov 23, 2008 11:50 pm

ja ja, geld val nie uit die lug uit nie.....

yes, yes, money falls not out of the airs......

ek sal n ander diff kry sodra my finansies my toelaat.....

i will a other diff get so carries my finances allow....

ek het klaar ophou moan en geniet my ou pap hitler....

i have finished stoped moaning and enjoy my porrage hitler......

HennieJ2 · Post by **HennieJ2** » Mon Nov 24, 2008 8:28 am

The difference in ration ratio appears to be insignificant:
My KZ = 46.2 km / 1000rpm (185/4)
Martin's = 46 km / 1000rpm (138/3)

That is if my maths don't let me down.......

ecotech · Post by **ecotech** » Mon Nov 24, 2008 3:12 pm

let me post some pics of the speed i was doing and then do the maths....

i dono anymore but i have dicided hitler is part of the familie and here to stay....screw landrover, colt etc etc etc.....

HennieJ2 · Post by **HennieJ2** » Mon Nov 24, 2008 6:13 pm

Martin, ek sien jou revs is definitief laer as die standard KZ. Alhoewel nie baie nie, maar dalk genoeg om die ou biki lam inie gat te maak. Ek het bv. groeter tyres op myne gesit, maar die verskil in krag was so, dat ek weer die regte size terug gesit het. Op jou 1ste foto, moes die revs ongeveer 3350rpm gewees het. Het vandag met Niell gesels, sy KZ is baie beter as ons s'n, maar ek dink ook biki nuuter as ons ou manne. Ek stel voorjy toets ook jou spoed met 'n GPS en sien hoe vergelyk die clock met die GPS. Dalk ry jy ook nog vinniger as 'n standard KZ. Laat weet jou as ek my DIY intercooler in gesit het. Goeie besluit om Hitler te hou - die "Rand Lover" kan jou dalk duurder kos..........

Groete

Hennie
PS: Lyk of jou lorrie so op 47km / 1000rpm hardloop. Moeilik om akkuraat te wees. Jy moet hom check spot-on op die 1000 rpm intervals en dan deel jy dit ini spoed eg. op 4000rpm se jy ry 190km/hr = 190/4 = km/1000rpm

Scorpion · Post by **Scorpion** » Tue Nov 25, 2008 12:38 pm

HennieJ2 wrote: Het vandag met Niell gesels, sy KZ is baie beter as ons s'n

Se wie? Ek sal nie 'n woord glo wat hy se nie...

HennieJ2 · Post by **HennieJ2** » Tue Nov 25, 2008 6:50 pm

Hallo Martin,
Biki van 'n up-date. Het vandag gou my donkie getoets. Hy hardloop op 46km / 1000rpm en op 3000rpm is die clock op 138km/h en die gps op 130km/h.
Groete
Hennie

ecotech · Post by **ecotech** » Tue Nov 25, 2008 8:06 pm

ja ok ek het nie 1 van daai fancy garmins nie ek het maar n rubbish nokia navigator maar dit werk. ek sal more toests. ek het wel getoets my speod deur die ratte en is soos volg

4000 rpm - 30km/h - 1st gear
4000 rpm - 60km/h - 2nd gear
4000 rpm - 120km/h - 3rd gear
4000 rpm - 160km/h - 4th gear
4000 rpm - 180km/h + -5th gear

my confuzion kom in 3de rat......kyk daai verskil......

BenHur · Post by **BenHur** » Wed Nov 26, 2008 3:22 pm

Jy moenie daai diesel 180 ry nie hy sal nooit hou nie

Post by **JohanM** » Wed Nov 26, 2008 3:37 pm

Martin,

Like Bennie said, no turbo diesel, be it BMW 330D or KZTE or anything else do not like to be driven hard, as the fuel quality is not up to standard and causes excessive EGT temperature builtup which will lead to cylinderhead cracking, blown headgaskets, piston crowns, melting and cracking and ultimately engine failure.

The ideal way to drive any turbo Diesel is to drive light foot halfway between maximum torque rpm and maximum power rpm. In your case it would be halfway in 5th gear (with the correct gear ratio & diff) between 1800rpm (torque) and 3600 rpm (power). You should then find that it still has a lot of power in reserve to overtake and be economical.

I have tested it on my dad's 3.0 D4D Fortuner and it runs happily at 2500 RPM in 5th gear at approx 126 km/h and returns fuel economy figures of 8.8l/100 km on the open road.....

HennieJ2 · Post by **HennieJ2** » Wed Nov 26, 2008 6:24 pm

Johan,
I am not bragging, but my 1st 2 KZ's have given me a pleasurefull 3 to 400k km between the two. I have driven them very cautious up to 30k and there-after they were working for their keep. This not meaning abusing them, but if one do long distances, it is tiresome to stick to 120km/hr. These bakkies were not the cheapest on fuel, but still were doing a lot beter on fuel than the average KZ's with log sheets to prove (average of 9.5km/ltr). Due to the ratio's they don't rev that high and the engine is not labouring much. My current work KZ is not only more thirstier, it is also lazier. It goes to show, that all engines are not as good assemled as others. As for cracking cylinder heads, I have not met a guy or even experienced it myself. My 1st KZ was traded in on 220k km with no engine trouble. All I had to do, is spent money on the fuel inj. system at 120k km and 200k km. That van had 150k km on the clock and still gave 155km/hr on the sand road through the Namib from Henties to Usakows.
To come back to the D4D's - don't make the mistake of comparing them to the KZ's - it's a total different animal, comsumption and power wise. I think that is the reason why my current KZ is irritating the living daylights out of me, especially when overtaking on a single lane two-way road.

ecotech · Post by **ecotech** » Wed Nov 26, 2008 7:41 pm

Its not that i want to do drag racing with my lux but its just the speed versus RPM that I wanted to show.

I normally drive not more then 120km/h if even. I drive like granny smith on a Sunday stroll so i don’t have a speed issue but its still the lack of power but i am going to start with the intercooler etc....

ed: Martin careful on that caps lock button of yours

NCES · Post by **NCES** » Fri Dec 19, 2008 9:21 am

Ek het self 'n KZ-TE met 207000km op die clock. Ek het dieselfde probleem as julle, biedtjie lui. Die probleem het begin nadat ek hom op 200000km by Toyota laat diens het en nuwe injector tips ingesit is. Niks is aan die diesel pomp gedoen nie. Volgens Toyota is die diesel pomp intern geslyt wat veroorsaak dat die dieselpomp sukkel om op die regte druk te werk wat weer die verleis aan krag veroorsaak as die enjin warm gery is. As die enjin koud is is die performance aanvaarbaar. Julle probleem le moontlik in die dieselpomp soos by myne.

HennieJ2 · Post by **HennieJ2** » Fri Dec 19, 2008 9:41 pm

Kobus,
Maak net seker die manne het nie gaan "washers' onder die tips in sit nie - die KZ's kry nie die koper washers onder die tips (injectors) nie. Jy sukkel dan met "hard starting" wanneer koud en swak performance wanneerbwarm.

Groete
Hennie

ecotech · Post by **ecotech** » Tue Jan 06, 2009 9:16 pm

after a long chat to bennie on the phone today he actually opened my eyes to a lot of things i never thought of in doing a conversion and thank the big chief upstairs i havnt started yet.

the simplest things are normally the most commen mistake. let me explain why!

well he told me that there might be simple solution to my problem. he explained the cenario of heat and intercooler etc to me. it made me think today and guess what. i had a mistake!

question to all! were does the kzte`s turbo sit on the motor? hmmmmm. made me think.
well it is situated prety low down, almost on the crossmember. well guess what my fault was? hmmmm. i had a seed net on the front! stupid, stupid! it blocked the cold air going in to cool the turbo and causing warm air coming in to the turbo being heated some more and leading to not warm but hot air going into the motor and hot air means no power.

i removed the fly infected seed net and drove down the road and oh my word, what a change allready. to make matters even more amazing is while talking to bennie on the phone the second time i went trough a river crossing like i do often getting to some of my clients and the cold water stormed through the radaitor and cooled everything down. i have to say i nearly crapped myself cos i didnt check the river has swollen due to all the rain and nearly nearly came short but all the water ran completely over the bonnet, so much so that i couldnt even see the bonnet but just water and that cooling was like a new lease of life to hitler.

normally in places were i use to drive in 3rd in could no drive in 4th and so forth. i was amazed by the change a bit of cooling can do to a diesel. next thing is the cooler and may i say again thanx to bennie i have picked up a couple of ideas and help. cooler on top of the motor and cooler fans on the cooler aswell. cold air is the thing for a diesel. now all i need is a snorkel. anybody want to give a kzte snorkel away? please keep me in mind.

well will keep you all up to date with the progress and performance change of my current 77kw and 236nm kzte.....

thanx bennie.....

Niel · Post by **Niel** » Tue Jan 06, 2009 10:33 pm

Glad to hear things are sorted

ToyX4 · Post by **ToyX4** » Tue Jan 06, 2009 10:46 pm

Martin, ek is bly jy het reggekom, en die lig gesien.

Ek wil op my Ford se intercooler sommer n missproeier sit, om so die storie ook bietjie af te koel. Het by Driko raad gekry, en hy se vat sommer n windscreen washer bottle en motor storie. Die sal dan die intercooler met lekker koue water sproei.
Subaru doen dit op die WRX STi, so dit sal seker vir ons ook werk.

frik · Post by **frik** » Wed Jan 07, 2009 6:20 am

Shimano wrote:Niel,
Ek het die chip ook laat insit. Diesel verbruik het verbeter vanaf n range van +/- 550km op n tenk tot tans so 680km. Dit is nou nie oop pad nie maar in die dorp rond met verkeer in oggend en middag. (tussen huis en werk)
Krag lewering het baie verbeter - sleep boot en ek kan die veskil dadelik agterkom. Dyno lesing net duskant 400Nm na die mod.
Al wat my afsit is die intake van die intercooler dit lyk nie so goed nie veral met die TJM bumper staan die ding nogal uit.

Shimano ek het presies dieselfde gevoel lyk nie goed die ding wat daar onder hang nie het my Intercooler die vakansie boontoe geskuif en wat n verskil en om nie van looks te praat nie was regtig die moeite werd jy moet net bereid wees om n gat in jou bonnet te sny.

ecotech · Post by **ecotech** » Wed Jan 07, 2009 7:01 am

op pad is n d4d bonnet scoop mooi slap bang in die middel. ek kan nie aan die kant sit nie want die bonnet se support ribbs loop daar so middel moet doen maar die finansiele katastrofie waarin ek is moet eers oorwaai.

ek sal weer post sodra ek begin, tot dan jammer maar die peanuts raak gou op wt ek kry n week.

weereens thanx bennie

BenHur · Post by **BenHur** » Wed Jan 07, 2009 2:13 pm

Cool ek is bly jou wa is nou bietjie beter

ecotech · Post by **ecotech** » Wed Jan 07, 2009 8:44 pm

:evil: :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil:
is daar enige iemand wat vir toyota werk? wat de d@ner! R900-00 vir n blerri d4d se bonnet scoop. is hulle gerook? hulle snuif seker hulle onderbroeke!

enige iemand wat n d4d scoop het wat wil smous? dringend opsoek. asb!!!!!

Post by **JohanM** » Wed Jan 07, 2009 9:15 pm

Martin, hoekom probeer jy nie 'n paar scrap yards nie???? Seker sal jy erens 'n D4D kry wat gerol het of so iets. Seker jy sal sels met bietjie geluk een kry wat joune se kleur is.

jakeslouw · Post by **jakeslouw** » Thu Jan 08, 2009 1:16 am

Martin, the idea about a water spray onto the intercooler or somewhere onto the inlet manifold is a very valid one: I've even heard of people thinking about using dry ice and whatever to get the intercooler as cold as possible!

All TD motors enjoy cold air: even just driving on a cold, wet day should give you some extra kW!

Glad the penny dropped about the grass screen.

WELL DONE BENNY ON A DIFFICULT TELEPHONE DIAGNOSIS.

BenHur · Post by **BenHur** » Thu Jan 08, 2009 5:55 am

Have a lookie here, this is what you want.

Check out their site

http://www.quartermile.co.za/info/produ ... alogue.htm

BenHur · Post by **BenHur** » Thu Jan 08, 2009 6:06 am

Only kidding Martin what you want is this

http://www.quartermile.co.za/info/produ ... rayers.htm

ToyX4 · Post by **ToyX4** » Thu Jan 08, 2009 9:23 am

BenHur wrote:Only kidding Martin what you want is this

http://www.quartermile.co.za/info/produ ... rayers.htm

Hy kos R830 velle die storie.