22R Carb issues

[GTO]

My 95 2.4SRX Hilux with 302000km since last year will idle fine but occasionally the revs drop almost stalling.
If I rev the engine it comes right, but if the Aircon(revs drop when AC is cycling) is on it sometimes stalls(but not often).
It may go for a few weeks without a hitch, also if it stalls it doesn't start so well again normally 2/3 swings of the starter.
It hasnt been to bad over the winter, I did find a perished vaccum pipe a few months ago and thought I had found my problem.
But today it stalled on me in CT traffic and it took maybe 3 or 4 minutes to get it started again.
I listened to the idling later today and idle fine but there is a slight hesitation every now and then.
I am the second owner and the carb has never been opened before.
A mechanic I know told me to rather go to a carburetor specialist.
I see there are pirate carbs on ebay from China but are they any good?

[GTO]

I did notice earlier tonight the fuel level in the sight glass is below the middle of the sight glass when not running and way above the middle of the sight glass when running?

There is a brown residue on the shafts and springs on the firewall side of the carb where the shaft exits the carb.

[Mud Dog]

Replace the needle and seat valve on the float. Don't try adjust the float level before checking where it sits with the new valve. As you know, it should be in the in the centre of the sight glass but if it's a tiny bit off (like a mm each way) it's no train smash. If it's out by more than that, adjust it.

Also bear in mind that the faltering of the motor can also be ignition related, like HT leads, plugs, rotor, rotor cap and even coil.

[GTO]

Would the high level not have caused the stall and hence difficult starting afterwards(engine flooded?)
Why a low level when not running and a high level when running?
Could it maybe be an issue with the return on the fuel pump?

[Mars]

When the level is high it could definitely cause flooding. When the engine is running and there is fuel pressure the needle and seat is supposed to close/restrict the flow into the carburetor bowl and the excess will then flow back to the tank through the overflow if your system does in fact have a fuel return. If the needle and seat does not seal properly it will cause the bowl to overfill.

I agree with replacing the needle and seat.

[GTO]

Thanks, I just want to check if there is any wear on the shaft by removing the air filter housing and checking the shaft for play.

Also I will remove the fuel cap and blow compressed air back up the return pipe just make sure it isn't blocked.

Then I will try Midas for a carb kit.

[Haboob]

Hi Stephen,
These carbs are an aluminium pewter mixture which is much softer than the shafts which are metal. They thus start wearing out at about 200 000 km and have play in the amount of fuel and air they allow into the carb which results in the uneven idling and in your case, dying of the engine. This could mean that yours are already extensively warn.
The other thing that I had problems with, is that this occurs with heavy accelleration, when the vehicle loses power and dies. This is fuel starvation and was caused by a dirty fuel filter, which was not allowing enough fuel through because it was that dirty. Change the fuel filter and see the difference. I aways kept a spare fuel filter in the cubby hole. I also used the extra large sized fuel filter as I had a double (long range) tank on my vehicle.
Hope you getsorted soon. Safe travels...

[GTO]

I had the carb rebuilt yesterday at Carburetor Sales&Spares in Paardeneiland.
Butterfly was worn as well as shafts.
It idles beautifully now.

[Haboob]

Glad you got it sorted, should be okay for another 150 000 km...

[NZ_N57R]

Hi GTO, just out of curiosity do you know how they sealed up the butterfly shaft? Drill it out, press in a new brass sleeve?
I have a 3Y petrol acting up in a similar fashion. Thanks