Stuck transfer case filler plug

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niclemaitre
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Mon Mar 19, 2018 1:10 pm

Hi there

My filler plug on the transfer case is stuck solidly. After stripping it with a socket :slap: , I've tried the vice grips, the bigger vice grips, the Knipex pliers, a smaller cheap Chinesium socket hammered on and nothing. There's not really room for the bobbejaan in there.

I'm left with two choices:
Break an easy-out off in it

Weld on a nut.

I'm worried that since the transfer case body is aluminium, welding a nut to the filler plug (which seems to be steel, since it's magnetic) might damage the case body. I only have an arc/stick/SMAW welder so its going to be interesting. Any advice, cautionary tales will be gratefully accepted.

Cheers
Nic
Happy trails
Nic

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Mars
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Mon Mar 19, 2018 2:07 pm

Hi Nick

As long as you do not draw an arc on the aluminium it should be fine. Fortunately the welding will not stick to the aluminium. I once tried to help a guy who had managed to weld a broken bolt very nicely to the cast iron engine block. That was a bit of fun. I have welded out broken studs/nuts from aluminium cylinder heads and engine casings without issue before using an arc welder. The process of welding a nut onto the plug has the added benefit of really making the plug very hot which causes it to expand. Once cooled off you might actually find that the plug comes out much easier.

Make sure that you disconnect the alternator (all the wires) before you start welding (and maybe even the earth clamp of the battery for good measure).
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ismail
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Mon Mar 19, 2018 2:32 pm

have you tried hitting a smaller hex socket on it? rather than the multipoint socket.
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Mon Mar 19, 2018 2:42 pm

Mars wrote:
Mon Mar 19, 2018 2:07 pm
Hi Nick

As long as you do not draw an arc on the aluminium it should be fine. Fortunately the welding will not stick to the aluminium. I once tried to help a guy who had managed to weld a broken bolt very nicely to the cast iron engine block. That was a bit of fun. I have welded out broken studs/nuts from aluminium cylinder heads and engine casings without issue before using an arc welder. The process of welding a nut onto the plug has the added benefit of really making the plug very hot which causes it to expand. Once cooled off you might actually find that the plug comes out much easier.

Make sure that you disconnect the alternator (all the wires) before you start welding (and maybe even the earth clamp of the battery for good measure).
+1

If you're going to weld under there, button your collar right up (not funny if splatter or slag gets into your shirt ... ask me ... :D: ) and use long welding gloves if you have. :winkx:
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niclemaitre
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Mon Mar 19, 2018 2:46 pm

Thanks guys.

I'll see if I can find a hex socket, then try the welder.

I know all about getting slag into my clothes. Such fun. I'll make a scarf from a cotton rag.
Happy trails
Nic

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ismail
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Mon Mar 19, 2018 4:30 pm

get an impact socket if you can the points seem to be sharper
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Mon Mar 19, 2018 7:16 pm

Sometime that nut get loosen the moment you put heat on it.
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Mon Mar 19, 2018 9:43 pm

When you loosen a metal filler plug in alu, always tap it with a hammer before you put on the socket and try to loosen it. It relieves the stress.

As for now after stuffing it up, my favorite way of doing it is to use a small chissel and hit it on the side of the head, so that you turn it with the chissel.
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Tue Mar 20, 2018 12:18 am

The cold chisel story works, especially on bigger diameter bolts and nuts but personally I would avoid too much hammering around the aluminium casing for fear of cracking it. I would still go the welding route, but carefully. Find a big nut that fits over the damaged plug end and weld it on the inside of the nut.
When your road comes to an end ...... you need a HILUX!.

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Life is like a jar of Jalapeño peppers ... what you do today, might burn your ass tomorrow.
Don't take life too seriously ..... no-one gets out alive.
It's not about waiting for storms to pass. It's about learning to dance in the rain.
And be yourself ..... everyone else is taken!
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niclemaitre
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Tue Mar 20, 2018 8:13 am

Got it free eventually.

Tried the 6 point socket (the el-cheapo sockets from Midas are surprisingly durable), didn't work.

Tried with a cold chisel and a hammer to turn it, but that didn't work and I was getting close to damaging the sealing face on the housing.

Welded on an M20 nut, then hammered a slightly smaller Imperial socket onto the nut (something like a 29ish equivalent), and broke it free with a powerbar.

Drained the diff, refilled it, with lovely new oil and then put in the new plug, with lots of copperslip on the threads, to the correct torque.
Happy trails
Nic

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ismail
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Tue Mar 20, 2018 9:11 am

happy days, glad you came right.
'93 DC 2.2 4x4 33" BF KM2's 60mm lift, Fakawi Canvas Canopy. SOLD
'03 SC 2700i 4x4 32" BFG KM2, SAC stage 1, OME springs, Rancho 9000XL shocks, ARB, Escape Gear seatcovers - goes like a bomb!!!!!!!!!

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Tue Mar 20, 2018 9:34 am

Mooi man!
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Mud Dog
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Tue Mar 20, 2018 9:42 am

:thumbup:
When your road comes to an end ...... you need a HILUX!.

Image
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Life is like a jar of Jalapeño peppers ... what you do today, might burn your ass tomorrow.
Don't take life too seriously ..... no-one gets out alive.
It's not about waiting for storms to pass. It's about learning to dance in the rain.
And be yourself ..... everyone else is taken!
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niclemaitre
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Tue Mar 20, 2018 10:00 am

ismail wrote:
Tue Mar 20, 2018 9:11 am
happy days, glad you came right.
Me too, you have no idea, how glad I am. I had visions of having to strip the transfer case, which according to the manual requires pulling the entire transmission.
Happy trails
Nic

SFA '97 DC affirmatively shopped
SFA '87 DC "Rooies"
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