Durabak vs Rubabak

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Borntofish
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Durabak vs Rubabak

Post by Borntofish »

I have found a product called Rubabak from SA Automotive paints in Roodepoort.

I have painted all the wheel wells on my Lux with this product. At the cost of only R45.00 a litre it is far cheaper than Durabak and it is a waterbased product. The only problem is that it must be applied by roller or Spraygun. The spraygun must have a 6mm nozzle.

Next thing is to remove the seats and carpets and do the inside of the cab.

So for those of you looking for a rubberising paint try Rubabak.
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Re: Durabak vs Rubabak

Post by Spook »

Hier aan die Namibiese kus is ons nie lief vir Durabak nie want dit word te hard en hard kraak en as hy kraak, dan klim water kappiler onder die rubber in en dan roes hy eers lekker! Enigiets wat plooibaar bly, werk. Soos 3M se grys goete of Autokote se teer-goete.
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Re: Durabak vs Rubabak

Post by Borntofish »

Ja ek het 'n Bantam bakkie op die Nam kus gesien, 45k op die klok en hy was weg geroes! As jy by die see bly gaan hulle darem nou maar net roes
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Re: Durabak vs Rubabak

Post by Bfreesani »

Borntofish, can I use this stuff to seal and protect my chassis of my Zook?
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Re: Durabak vs Rubabak

Post by Borntofish »

I have used this stuff on my trailer's chassis and wheel covers. It is still on and in good nick now for the last year and a half. So I assume you can depends on what a ZOOK is?
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Re: Durabak vs Rubabak

Post by Bfreesani »

Suzuki SJ410 Jeep(y)
When she was still driving
When she was still driving
The Chassis needing some sealing
The Chassis needing some sealing
PICT0213.JPG
The body can do with quiet a bit of sealing, although I have done most work so far with fiber glass.
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Re: Durabak vs Rubabak

Post by Borntofish »

David, If I was you I would take that Chassis to Chamdor Sand blasting services. Let them Clean it, red oxide it and then paint it. They are not that expenisve, They charged me 1k to sandblast down a 6 foot trailer. At least then you would have piece of mind that most rust and defects are cleared away.
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Re: Durabak vs Rubabak

Post by Bfreesani »

We have been scraping and sanding that chassis for 3 days straight and painted it today with rust inhibitor. It has made a good seal, and the surface rust has turned black and gone hard. I am pleased with the result and was looking at the seal process next week. You mention red oxide, is that OK to use on a chassis. I have a spare tin here and was wondering if I could use it.
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Re: Durabak vs Rubabak

Post by ecotech »

red oxide only stops the rust for a while. it doesnt cure the problem. i have allways trusted the good old bitchemin (verskoon die spelling) want ekt al menige dae in woestyn en water deur gedring en whala, geen roes nie. selfs my oupa se tjorra wat in port shepstone geboer het het nie n kol roes op gehad waar die goed opgespry was nie maar ek se niks van die res nie..

oor die durabak. my pa se 1400 het die op die bak en 3 jaar in port elizabeth en die ding is vrot van die roes. rubbabak is net so spull gemors want ekt roes kolle in hitler se load bin onder die gemors....

so ek weet nie. elkeen het sy eie keuses
loop maar met my voete!!!!!!!!!!
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Re: Durabak vs Rubabak

Post by Bfreesani »

EK het "chassis black" gekoop vir die chassis en onderkant van die body, maar gedog ek sit bo oor die red oxide. Sal ek dan eerder dit direk op die skoon gemaakte metaal sit.
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Re: Durabak vs Rubabak

Post by Mud Dog »

Red oxide is an etch primer, etching into the metal using phosphoric acid. It's this process that dramatically improves rust resistance, however it needs to be applied to clean, grease free bright metal to be really effective. It does have rust inhibitive properties as well but would perhaps not be what's best suited to your situation. Since you have already used a rust converter, (It converts rust to iron phosphate, thus neutralizing the oxidation process), my suggestion would be to give it another coat of the same and allow 24 to 36 hrs to cure. As a protective overcoat a bituminous paint can be applied, (some brands of chassis black contain bitumen). ABE (African Bitumen Emulsions) are a nation wide company and have numerous bitumen based products for different applications. Check with your local outlet what they recommend. Bear in mind that many of these products do not fully harden and that their surtfaces are therefore easily 'hurt' and you might also get quite dirty in your assembly stage. One of the pros however is that it is so easy to address any areas where the problem reappears or where you just need to touch up. By that I mean in comparison to a hard cured paint where you have the possibility of 'lift' from the edges wherever you grind out any re-occuring rust. Softer bitumen products don't have that risk and your touch up coat will not only bond, but will emulsify and become one with the old coating.
They are also excellent water proofing products.
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Re: Durabak vs Rubabak

Post by Mud Dog »

P.S. I am also not a great fan of the rubberizing paints as I have seen it quite often (including on my own vehicles) where it gets a crack, gets hurt or just lifts, that rust takes hold and then creeps further underneath the rubberized coating.
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Re: Durabak vs Rubabak

Post by Bfreesani »

The Chassis black I have here is the Luxor brand Asphalt base with gloss finish. They say it should be surface dry in 15 minutes and can be handled after 2 hours. Does this give you any idea of what I have here.

My rust converter I used is the "sentt" product. They say it protects and primes rust ready for top coats. I am about to go turn the chassis over and start work on the underside and treat the same way. This product turn rust spots to a black gloss nearly resin looking finish. I feel like I may need to rough it up a bit before applying my paint or chassis black.

I used Duraback on my rocksliders :problem: , big mistake.. When you use these things for what they were made for, I left Duraback on rocks all over the country and now my redoxide is all exposed and the deeper scratches are now staring to show rust. If I can keep up with the diesel bill, the constant sliding does keep the rusting in check :twisted: , but under normal conditions the marks are showing bad.

Look, it is 5mm thick steel, so it's going to be a while before it rusts through from the outside that dries in an hour after it has seen water. Duraback was incredibly hard and rough. I had to sand it down to make it more acceptable so you can slide in and out the vehicle without leaving your leg behind on them :o:
Last edited by Bfreesani on Sun Dec 07, 2008 1:22 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Durabak vs Rubabak

Post by Mud Dog »

If I was to interpret "Asphalt base" as meaning tar / bitumen, then I would say that' OK to use, although the quick drying is too fast for a real bitumen based paint.
Give it a try, you already have the product.
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Re: Durabak vs Rubabak

Post by Mud Dog »

OH!

Do NOT sand the rust converter surface .... that resin like smooth finish is NORMAL.

All the different brands work in the same way but what is important to note is that they are only effective insofar as much as how deep they can penetrate the rust, which is why they instruct the removal of all flaking, thicker rust .... hope you did that, otherwise the rust will still be active underneath.
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Re: Durabak vs Rubabak

Post by Bfreesani »

Yip, that was done, even did some electric wire brushing to make sure the rust spots even have some shiny bits.. BUT, I just turned the chassis over onto its "roof", to find my workers that were helping me, had not done much on the underside that they could not see. I still have some more stripping off of the old chassis paint to do before I can carry on. This requires me to use some stripper and scraping.

I am a bit scared of what I am going to do to the already treated top section. I am assuming that I can just add and double up the process and do a total once over.

How do they say?.... If you want something done right, do it yourself :x .. The rust really is not that bad on the chassis, but it did come form the coast which is my concern. We did a high pressure clean more than once, even with a solvent to remove oil residue from oil leaks and the like. I dropped the chassis over upside down and just got more sand falling out of a hole again :o: . I don't think I will ever get all of it out. My one relief is that the rust does not return as easy here in Gauteng
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Re: Durabak vs Rubabak

Post by Bfreesani »

Mud Dog wrote:If I was to interpret "Asphalt base" as meaning tar / bitumen, then I would say that' OK to use, although the quick drying is too fast for a real bitumen based paint.
Give it a try, you already have the product.
I also saw it that the asphalt is tar. I did see on the chassis while I am stripping that some places the old chassis paint is nearly oily while in other places it nearly chips off. So that chassis was done more than once, but with different products. The oily one seems to come off the best with normal thinners or as I just found out, good old petrol (cheaper than thinners :lol: )

Hope the petrol does not cause other problems down the line.
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Re: Durabak vs Rubabak

Post by Mud Dog »

The petrol should'nt cause too much hassle, after all, you want it to be oil / grease free. And when you turn it over, do it on wooden blocks, but it's not the end of the world if you scrape a little rust converter off here and there as you can just touch up again. Two coats of converter is normally not necessary but I suggested it because with the first coat most of the active ingredients are used up in the conversion process at the rust spots. A second coat leaves unused ingredient embedded in the coating to inhibbit a further outbreak. After all it cannot do harm, only good.
I did my work trailer like this about 12 yrs ago because I had rust starting all over, it still looks OK under there and I am on the coast.

Good luck & happy hunting.
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Re: Durabak vs Rubabak

Post by Rebel 4x4 »

This is now reviving a thread of about 10 years ago. I used the ABE Autokote product, which contains the Bitumen. On the Jimny chassis, you have this type of rubber/PVC (I don't know how to explain it) part coated over the chassis for protection. Now I used the product all over the chassis and on these specific areas it is still not 'cured'. Luckily it is not my daily drive, so it is still standing in my garage since nearly 2 weeks ago when I applied the product.

How long does this take to dry? I believe it is a really solid product when it is fully cured. If you touch the area, it feels sticky (but no residue on my hands). I have a 4x4 trip in about 6 and 7 weeks time, will it be completely dry by then? And also, how can I speed up the process? I tried using a fan to run in the wheel arch area, and after 4 days of continuously running, I don't see a difference.
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Re: Durabak vs Rubabak

Post by Mud Dog »

Thomas, I'm not sure but it could just be some resin or sticky oil from the product that's risen to the surface. if it doesn't come off on your hands, then I don't think it's a train smash but if you can scrape it off with your nail then something has prevented curing. I would leave it for a while and see what happens. You can always come back to those patches and re-do them later if necessary.
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Re: Durabak vs Rubabak

Post by Rebel 4x4 »

Mud Dog wrote: Wed Sep 05, 2018 5:02 pm Thomas, I'm not sure but it could just be some resin or sticky oil from the product that's risen to the surface. if it doesn't come off on your hands, then I don't think it's a train smash but if you can scrape it off with your nail then something has prevented curing. I would leave it for a while and see what happens. You can always come back to those patches and re-do them later if necessary.
Thanks Oom Andy, I will check if it comes off by scraping. My concern is that during driving, small little stones or dust can stick to the inside of the wheel arch and would not look nice after a while.
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Re: Durabak vs Rubabak

Post by Mud Dog »

If that happens, just leave it for a while. Once it hardens most of that will come away with a stiff nylon brush and if it still looks too bad you can always give it another coat.
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And be yourself ..... everyone else is taken!
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Re: Durabak vs Rubabak

Post by Rebel 4x4 »

Mud Dog wrote: Thu Sep 06, 2018 9:01 pm If that happens, just leave it for a while. Once it hardens most of that will come away with a stiff nylon brush and if it still looks too bad you can always give it another coat.
Yip, will leave it for another 6 weeks (that is until my next trip). Luckily my Jimny is not my daily drive, only used for 4x4 trips. At least then, I know I waited till the maximum period. (which will be totally 8 weeks)
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