Hilux 4x4 Forum

............It wasn't till the tow truck driver stood there scratching his head, winch hook in hand, that we both realised that an 88 SFA Lux doesn't have a front or rear recovery point :!:

Finally we agreed that the only way my Lux was gonna get loaded onto the flatbed recovery truck was by hooking the right leaf spring clasp.

So I think it's about time I rectify the situation, if only to be prepared for recovering dead Nissans and Landy's

Here's some pics of my front end, can anyone post photos of their chosen recovery points please

Cheers

Rich

Hey pieter aka oom tas.
Hier is die bewyse my maat hiluxie al te snoesig bo oppie landy se flatbed??????????????

Wag laat ek die ene nie so gou laat verbygaan nie


VIVA LANDROVIA

Pleased to say that the Recovery Vehicle was a TOYOTA Dyna :)

And the breakdown was due to a cooked PIRATE coil

I guess Toyota figured that the Hilux would never need to be recovered

Hi Rich,

I just drilled holes through the mounting plates on the BB and TB. These plates are bolted onto the chassis with 2 or more bolts. (Just make sure that the bolts are rated I think 8.8 or higher..)

I've used both front and rear points a number of times without any problems, towing and snatching.....

Also see Pieter's post viewtopic.php?f=3&t=1010&p=8480&hilit=r ... ints#p8480

Hey pieter aka oom tas.
Hier is die bewyse my maat hiluxie al te snoesig bo oppie landy se flatbed??????????????

Blommie ou maat, ek kan verstaan dat jy verbaas is om n Hilux op n flatbed te sien, vir baie van ons is dit ook die eerste keer, maar dit is mos iets waaraan julle landi outjies baie gewoond is om agter op Flatbeds te ry

een van die mees gevaarlike hobbies is om toyotas....sorrie 4x4's te recover. Maak plan en sit behoorlike recovery punte op. Ek gebruik 50x16 flat bar en maak seker daar is 2 m10 ht boute wat vashou. Gebruik ook n bridal so my load word gehalveer.

Herman, jy moet kyk Katools het pragtige bakkie wat hy wil verkoop, maak nou vir eenkeer in jou lewe die regte besluit en koop vir jou so ordentlike bakkie. Onthou, eerstens gaan die mense nie meer vir jou lag oor jou Datsun nie en tweedens gaan jy ook n slag saam die manne kan praat met ordentlike 4x4s :D

Richard,

My Hilux had the same problem with regards to the recovery point. When the bull bar were fitted the original recovery hook was removed. I bought two Warn recovery hooks, and went about to fit them to the bullbar where it is located as close as possible to the chassis mounting point.

My Hilux has the same bull bar as yours, which was factory optional extras. I will post some pictures later as I first have to take some pics and post them for you.

My rear recovery point is the towbar which is fitted with a Ball & Pin towpoint and not the goose neck.

I have recovered Sani's, Discovery TDI's and also a few other similar sized vehicles, and never had mine come off....

Finally got around to posting a Pic of my rear recovery points

(think they're gonna get A LOT OF USE hey)

Rich, I want to do the same and fit shackles at the back (same as in your pic). Can that dril do 2 more?

The holesaw I bought is still RAZOR Sharp Bru

AND I bought TWO, just in case :roll: :roll: :roll:

I drilled 32mm holes front and back, to allow the the rather large knuckles to pass through.

Took about 2mins per hole using my 18v Makita - so we can do it here, at Tierkloof, at the Pub..... you choose, I'll bruise :!:

Rich

I still got four monster shackles I need to fit (2 front 2 back)
But after my last lot of drilling I think I will just go find some engineering place to drill the holes for me
Well thats the plan anyway, I might end up feeling to defeated if I dont do it myself :|

I've always just hitched up to the axles themselves next to a spring pedstal so that I don't strain the axle. Is this a bad idea?

:? I am not sue now, can you use the the bullbar /towbar for recovery, e.g. when being pulled or pulling a 4x4 out of mud with kinetic strap?
if not, what do you use on the body front and back? pics

If you use the BBar or Tbar make sure to connect the shackle on the Bracket that secures it to the cassis like a hole drilled into the bracker to fit your shackle onto.

BUT make sure your BBar or TBar is secured with at least 8.8 (12.9 even better) graded screws. If not replace it, as a 4.6 will sheer right off if you snatch.

tx, I will check the bolts, haven't got stck yet, but don't want to pull the bumper off if I help someone.

Dadz Toy BFI wrote:The holesaw I bought is still RAZOR Sharp Bru

AND I bought TWO, just in case :roll: :roll: :roll:

I drilled 32mm holes front and back, to allow the the rather large knuckles to pass through.

Took about 2mins per hole using my 18v Makita - so we can do it here, at Tierkloof, at the Pub..... you choose, I'll bruise :!:

Rich

sorry buddy- I don't like that. The hole removes a lot of meat out of the bull bar, and leaves a point that may crack. you could weld a bit of plate on to get some of the strength back, making that section thicker... strong tow points are important. You will get stuck, and everyone must be equipped recovery. For your truck, i would bolt something bullet proof to the chassis, front and rear- and nothing weaker then a class III trailer hitch. When something breaks it can be dangerous. know anybody with a 13000lb winch? BIG FORCES!

ashtabula4wd wrote:

Dadz Toy BFI wrote:The holesaw I bought is still RAZOR Sharp Bru

AND I bought TWO, just in case :roll: :roll: :roll:

I drilled 32mm holes front and back, to allow the the rather large knuckles to pass through.

Took about 2mins per hole using my 18v Makita - so we can do it here, at Tierkloof, at the Pub..... you choose, I'll bruise :!:

Rich

sorry buddy- I don't like that. The hole removes a lot of meat out of the bull bar, and leaves a point that may crack. you could weld a bit of plate on to get some of the strength back, making that section thicker... strong tow points are important. You will get stuck, and everyone must be equipped recovery. For your truck, i would bolt something bullet proof to the chassis, front and rear- and nothing weaker then a class III trailer hitch. When something breaks it can be dangerous. know anybody with a 13000lb winch? BIG FORCES!

Sorry but I have to disagree. Rich's bullbar have enough meat left. Its a 2 ton 4x4 not a 16 ton truck he drives. If the BBar has strong enough bolts and mountings onto the chassis it should last a huge pull or snatch for that matter. What is not going to hold is those flimsy D-shackles in the pic, but I am sure we did discuss when I visited you Rich. Get some 3/4 inch bow shacles from a 4x4 store rather together with a decent pull (not tow) and or snatch strap

I got recovery points added to the back with hi-lift jack points same time. Instead of charging me later for another fitting. Changed the bolts for me to stronger ones, Free. Only charged me one hour labour but took a little longer. Tx to Safari Centre Boksburg, and Jaco for the advise on tyres etc.Sorry about all the questions
I don't have pics yet, but fitted the recovery plate, so the snatch rope will not pull the back bumper up.

I need some help from my peers.

I want to go and play in the sand at Atlantis, but my Lux do not have any recovery points.
And I`m 100% certain that I will need them sooner rather than later

You will all know my setup - I think its pretty standard.

This is the bullbar that I have in front:


As you can see from this picture there is no recovery hooks at the bottom







I bought these recovery hooks from 4x4 mega:


Would it be wise to drill one hole at the red mark (below the yellow arrow) so that I could place it there? I would use the new hole (red dot) + the one to the right of the new one to attach the hooks. One on the left and one on the right in front of the Lux.

This is the rear bumper
Same story, no holes for attaching Landrovers :)





What would you recommend, a stronger towing hitch?
Drilling holes in the plate that`s connected to the chassis?

Thank you
Petrus

The front one should be fine. You could also just drill a bigger hole in the plate so a shackle bold will fit through then you don't have to use the hook (I personally don't like them).

At the back I drill holes sort of diagonal almost along the line like in the last photo.

Cassie,
Kan jy foto's plaas van die recovery fittings op jou trokkie asb
Ek het die thread gevolg maar het nog steeds nie sekerheid oor waar en hoe dit die beste en veiligste gaan wees nie :wth:
Ek't 'n '90 D/K trokkie en sal verkies om die recovery points/fittings nie op die BB of towbar te monteer nie

chopper wrote:Cassie,
Kan jy foto's plaas van die recovery fittings op jou trokkie asb
Ek het die thread gevolg maar het nog steeds nie sekerheid oor waar en hoe dit die beste en veiligste gaan wees nie :wth:
Ek't 'n '90 D/K trokkie en sal verkies om die recovery points/fittings nie op die BB of towbar te monteer nie

Stel dit so. Myne is op die BB en die TB maar altwee is direk inlyn met die chassis. Ek sal die naweek kan fodies neem :)

Baie dankie, dit sal gaaf wees

I agree that it's not ideal to mount recovery points to the standard bull bar / rear bumper ... more so the rear bumper. What Cassie says IRO the front mounting should be A-OK .... but your rear bumper looks like a problem. It looks like it's already been compromised .... the indentations on the rear valence as well as on the alu tread plate tells a story of it's own .... that drop-plate plough is undoubtedly responsible. Personally I would remove the bumper and check that the mounting holes in the chassis are not torn. This is not uncommon ... the chassis mounting holes are in extensions of the chassis and not the actual chassis rails. These extensions are a lot weaker than the chassis rails and should be reinforced with thicker metal to prevent tearing. Re fit the bumper with new 8.8 grade bolts if the old ones look at all suspect. Remove that drop-plate! Fit your recovery hook to the mounting plates of the bumper just behind the bars. Ideally your recovery point should be in line with and mounted to the chassis rail, but this is not possible on the standard setup. I also don't like the hooks that much either, but if you make use of a bridle when recovering, I don't see a problem.

Mud Dog wrote:......... Remove that drop-plate!........

Is it the part with the towbar on?

Mud Dog wrote:....I also don't like the hooks that much either.....

You convinced me. I returned them.
I did not like the "open" end of the hook.
For what it's worth- they are the same ones that Toyota fit...

When using shackles, rather use bow shackles than normal D-Shackles.

Bow shackles are at least rated.

Open hook recovery points are preferred, they allow you to do shackle-less recoveries using a bridle. Prefferably have 2 open hook type rcovery points on the front and 2 at the back of your vehicle to spread the load.

Aliminating shackles from a recovery has distinct advantages. No shackle, no "klip in die kettie" when you do kinetic recoveries and the recovery point breaks. Open hooks can also cause serious injuries when they start flying around, but the chances of then staying attached to the kinetic strap are less. They usually fall away from the stap and to the ground.

Holes in bull bars with shackles through them are dangerous... I saw a bull bar flying into a crowd once... scary stuff...

ThysdJ wrote:Open hook recovery points are preferred, they allow you to do shackle-less recoveries using a bridle. Prefferably have 2 open hook type rcovery points on the front and 2 at the back of your vehicle to spread the load.

Aliminating shackles from a recovery has distinct advantages. No shackle, no "klip in die kettie" when you do kinetic recoveries and the recovery point breaks. Open hooks can also cause serious injuries when they start flying around, but the chances of then staying attached to the kinetic strap are less. They usually fall away from the stap and to the ground.

Holes in bull bars with shackles through them are dangerous... I saw a bull bar flying into a crowd once... scary stuff...

Thys weet jy van `n plek hier naby wat my kan help met recovery points op die onderstel?

Praat bietjie met Ciske/Jaco by Gomad. Of jy kan die hake gaan koop en vir Allan Hoppy vra om hulle vir jou vas te sit.

Hello Thys
Dankie

Ek het hulle website gekry:
http://www.gomad4x4.co.za/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Ek het die heeltyd die verkeerde site gekry as ek gesoek het:
http://www.gomad.co.za/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Hulle sal die regte plek wees as ek die dag wil motorfiets ry :)

Agter het ek opsie gegaan met twee open hook punte, en vasgesit met rated bolts.

Traveler wrote:Agter het ek opsie gegaan met twee open hook punte, en vasgesit met rated bolts.

Is it possible for you to post some pictures?

Front + back ?

I've only got two at the back. I'll see to posting a pic.

Ok I'm going to be controversial... after the incident where Mudzilla got seriously injured via a flying hook, I'm somewhat persuaded that they are not the best recovery points, yes they are good, but not the best... reason... if you look at the design, the spring clip is held in place by the mounting bolts... and is not secured to the hook body itself... in the unlikely event of the bolts shearing(yes I know not likely if sercured correctly, but it can happen), the clip and hook separate and the hook becomes a free flying object, no longer being attached to the rope... very dangerous, if the recovery point was a closed loop, in the event of bolts shearing, the hook projectile would have stayed attached to the recovery strap... and would only have traveled the length of the strap, while loosing energy quickly due to the weight of the rope...

I'm not trying to start a fight... but would like to know what the best/safest recovery point is... I did a little research and found this link of interest... http://www.off-road.com/trucks-4x4/feat ... 13500.html

Bolt doesn't have any recovery points fitted... it's high time that I did it, and want to do it properly!

Personally I also prefer the idea of a closed loop so that it cannot come free of the rope. Whatever your preference, a bridle is strongly recommended.

Well gents, I'm by no means an expert

So here is a rookie thought: what if after all is said and done and you have fitted your recovery hooks etc...and you fit a piece of steel cable, one end tied to the chassis ond the other to your hook and/or bridle cable setup? Now I haven't hammered out all the details, but it could serve as an extra safety measure to prevent the snatch strap/rope/hook from getting airborne, provided that there is enough slack in the "safety rope" so as not to being pulled tight by the towing vehicle.

This is why using a recovery bridle is essential. If the recovery point breaks (closed loop or hook) the bridle catches the shackle / hook before it becomes a projectile.

How does the bridal catch a open ended hook when in missile mode?... not trying to be funny... trying to learn!

This pic below is probably the safest of all. The only change I would make is replace the thin blue Nylon straps with descent rated Nylon straps.

That's a decent looking setup... I'm going to go for closed loop recovery points!

The purpose of the thin blue strap (lanyard) is to dissipate energy when a recovery hook breaks. The lanyard will also break, that is it's purpose, but in the process it will slow down the momentum of the broken recovery hook. Another mistake they made at RdW when that guy was injured.

The whole idea with a shackle-less recovery hook setup is to minimise the number of links in your "chain". The more links the more points of potential failure, and the more pieces of metal you tie together the heavier your projectile.

Whatever recovery hook setup you choose to gop for, just make sure that they are fitted as directly to the chassis as possible, with the correct rated bolts, and that there are 2 at either end (front and rear) to spread the load.

Kinetic recoveries are not childs play, the incident at RdW is a clear indication of the kind of forces we talk af here. As I said before, make sure that if something has to break, let it be the soft stuff and not the hardware.

Gents

The info here is great, many thanks for the advice and pics

Would you say it's best to buy these items from 4x4 shops, or could 1 have them made to suite at a proper belting place which will provide test labels/certs so you're sure it fits your individual needs/ideas for your vehicle?

Cassie, do you have any more pics of setups like this and others?

Thanks

Zane

Zane. The recovery hooks you buy at 4x4 shops are also weight rated, so you know what kind of forces they can handle. Home made recovery points are not, so you taking pot-shots in the dark.

ThysdJ wrote:Zane. The recovery hooks you buy at 4x4 shops are also weight rated, so you know what kind of forces they can handle. Home made recovery points are not, so you taking pot-shots in the dark.

Thys, sorry if I wasn't clear I don't mean the hooks, I'm talking bout the Bridals and belting.

I've baught heavy duty Bow Shackles which are tested and certified(STAMPED), and my fixing points have been welded by a pro qualified welder so there's no questioning that.

Haggie Rand for example makes specialised belting ect... and they can make it to spec for personalised applications/vehicles with test certs ect... would this be acceptable? Or do only specialised 4x4 manufactures of these systems get recommended?

Thanks

Zane

Maddoglips wrote:Gents

The info here is great, many thanks for the advice and pics

Would you say it's best to buy these items from 4x4 shops, or could 1 have them made to suite at a proper belting place which will provide test labels/certs so you're sure it fits your individual needs/ideas for your vehicle?

Cassie, do you have any more pics of setups like this and others?

Thanks

Zane

Pulled that image from the net. It was the best one I could find.

oops... no worries, just make sure you know the breaking strength of the straps, and dont use any old strap as a kinetic (snatch) strap. IIRC Cassie can help you out with a kinetic rope, which is preferred to a kinetic strap.

Thys no probs, I'm bad at explaining myself over typing LOL

Okay first off I need to apologise.... I had my terminology totally wrong. When ever I said bridle I was actually referring to a lanyard

Okay now that I have that out of the way below is the minimum safe set up according to my experience: As you can see the shackle is connected to the bull bar. Not ideal but the bull bar is fitted with properly rated bolts and the point it is attached to is in line with the chassis. As you can see the snatch strap is fed through a loop in the lanyard and the other end is attached to another point on the vehicle. Ideally you want to attach the lanyard to another structure than what the snatch strap is connected to. The snatch strap is rated at 8Tons and the lanyard at 4T. you will also notice that the bonnet is open to protect the occupants in the event something should brake

Someone asked me how my recovery point looks like at the back. In the pic below is my alternative towbar I use. I have ground away the towbar "ploegskar" to give me more clearance on this towbar. The one currently on my bakkie also have built in loops where a shackle can be attached. This is a hook rated at 10000pds (5ton). It is fastened to the towbar with two 10mm rated bolts and is inline with the chassis. The towbar in turn is fitted to the chassis with 4 rated bolts as well.

I've purchased a recovery hook for the rear of my SFA (as per Cassies's 2nd pic above) which I'm planning on mounting to the standard rear BB bracket, in-line with and as close to the chassis as possible.

I guess it makes no difference whether i mount it on the left or on the right, just seeking advice on which side of the bracket would work best, i.e. outside or inside the bracket.

Any views?

Shaun best is 2 hooks, left and right! Then you can do a bridal setup for maximum safety.