southern Namibia, the C15, kgalagadi and Molopo

[mushroom]

So its me, swambo, the mistress (imbongolo - '88 hilux 2.2 4Y) and 27 days. We decided to do southern Namibia and some other stuff on our own, no convoy, no sat phones. Just a toolbox, passports and some cash....and lots of beer

Leave Krugersdorp to Red sands Kuruman on the N14 - not a bad campsite, but saw better

Then thru Upington, past the pienk padstalletjie - cold cokes, and an awesome story about some Oom who's cab was tusked by a charging elephant - the panel is on display..

Then to Augrabies campsite - where the baboons are so big the vervets even poefie themselves...

The falls were amazing, even though there was very little water around

[mushroom]

Do yourself a favour and take walk to the twin falls if you havent already been there, very lekka..

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Then we headed towards Pofadder and turned right about 70 kliks out of augrabies - see the following link for the map. Any co-ords can be given on request: viewtopic.php?f=156&t=20881" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

We hit our first gravel, and the imbongolo breathed a sigh of relief - now, not to break into a plitical slandering, but our Govament has spent millions on changing road names to things like Malibonwe and suchlike, but for whatever reason (perhaps cos its in the middle of nowhere!!!) they havent changed this one...

So through Ontseepkans border post - no questions on any meat, wood, beer, cheap ladies etc..and on to Ai-ais via Karasburg. Gents,and ladies, you have to stop at the SPAR here - lamb rib chops R55/kg !!!
Ai-ais was as hot as Hades, and only the cold Fish river to cool off in.

One night there and then we headed of to Hobas - passed this old rusty thing with bullet holes in it - something about a war remnant - could have been a Landy...

Then to the Canon roadhouse for lunch - these okes know how to do it - in the middle of nowhere - order the venison schnitzel - kudu - excellent, especially when washed dwon with BEEEEEG ice cold Hansa draughts....

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Back to the Hobas campsite to chill

Treated to an awesome sunset, and all was peacefull, with a couple of drops of rain...and then...

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within minutes I heard what sounded like a Landy or twenty, running low on oil (as they do..) and we suddenly had a bloody mini tornado run through the camp. The Tentco RTT handled very well, my legs got sandblasted as I hid behind the bongi, and swambo was tucked in the cab. The camp manger came round after and said it was the first time he had ever experienced something like that, so I didnt feel bad changing my now dirty jocks..

From there past Seehiem and Goageb to Aus where I had my first offer on the Hilux by the dude who is the village mechanic - declined the offer and went to have a draught at the Aus hotel. !0 kliks out of Aus is Klein Aus vista - very nice campsite.

[mushroom]

Two nights at Klien Aus, and then off to Luderitz. Now reports say the feral desert horses are not common to see. We rock up and count over 100 of these horses - just luck I guess..

Dont get to Luderitz on a Sunday, the place is deader than the ghost town up the road !! so the GPS said go to Dias point - found a little coffee shop which could sort us out with 10 oysters and a cold glass of wine right on the beach

We camped at Shark island for two days, and went to Kolmanskop to check out the ghost town. Crazy to think they were picking diamonds up off the sand.

If you are in Luderitz, on the road to the campsite at Shark island about 800m from the campsite on the left is a place which processes fresh oysters - stop in, have a cold one and plenty of fresh oysters. At R4 an oyster you have to (we ate 46 !!!).
Then onto the road I have dreamt of driving. The D707 runs between the Namib desert and the Tirasberg. When all the other 4x4's and tourists are driving on to Helmeringshausen turn left.....trust me, you want to do this part of the country.

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We stayed at a place called Namtib - spaced out campsites - only 6 of them, each under a big camelthorn tree, and a good 100m from the next oke....awesome place..

We were all alone, and has a couple of visitors. All small expect for this okie.

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He was set free to roam for food that night, but the next visitor was definitely not what I expected...........

[jgduvenage]

Very nice report!

[OOOOMS]

Great so far.....next

ps. nice pics :wink2:

[ChrisF]

LEKKER lees ek dan nou. :)

[Family_Dog]

Sounds like you had a whale of a time, James! ;)


-F_D

[jacques kotze]

I like your pics, please post some more

[arnize2]

Ai, dit bring lekker herinneringe. Jy kan maar nog gooi.

[RooiLux]

[quote="mushroom"]So its me, swambo, the mistress (imbongolo - '88 hilux 2.2 4Y) and 27 days. We decided to do southern Namibia and some other stuff on our own, no convoy, no sat phones. Just a toolbox, passports and some cash....and lots of beer

Leave Krugersdorp to Red sands Kuruman on the N14 - not a bad campsite, but saw better
The camp sites re not that nice,we slept in the chalets when we went through there to kgalagadi but overall red sands is a very nice place but I also think they should upgrade the camp site maby some grass as there is not that much of it or even paved stands with some more trees.

Also don't think the red sand is very tent friendly.

[mushroom]

Thanks guys, episode 2 of 5 will continue tonight...
Ja Marius - shade is a premium at red sands, and the sand does get in everywhere but there was lots more sand to come ...

[mushroom]

So where was I,...oh ja, the Namtib sunset, and the other visitor

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So, at 02h00 I hear a crunching noise. Knowing its a brown hyena, I'm out the RTT kaalgat shouting abuse and gooing stones at the "brown" hyeana. Climb back in the rtt all proud.....crunch,crunch...grab torch, open door, look.....poefie myself, the biggest spotted hyena I have ever seen. This oke ripped our campsite a brand new ringpiece. Now folks, I always thought the "cadac" story was a fireplace story...this oke picked up a newly filled 7kg cadac bottle and just cruised off as if he was carrying a tiny chop bone. Told sawmbo all is well, as long as he doesnt go for the rtt cover wedged between the bullbar and the grill.....you guessed it right. When he tugged the rtt cover, and the whole 2 ton hilux lurched twice I really soiled my boxers. After a while he buggered off, but did leave some damage. The only benefit I missed was when he must have crapped out half our washing up bowl - he must have howled like no-ones business.. :evil: :evil:

So, woke up and mourned the loss of the poef stool, the washbasin, and the near miss on the kettle and cadac cylinder. Quick chow and off to Solitaire via Bettas. Saw this cabbie, a real mix of everything but the lads at Ols Man Emu could learn a trick or two from this bloke..

then we hit the solitaire road...

Get to Solitaire, too early for the apple strudel, and hectic traffic waiting for petrol - the bowsers empty..eish - poor planning okes..

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so we jacked a jerry can into the cab and off we went to sossuslvlei. Hotter than hell, but an afternoon drive to Elim dune to soak in the sunset..

[OOOOMS]

Hope part 2 is going to be longer than part 1...

[mushroom]

Eish guys, made a hash of that one - solitaire was after sossus, not before, apologies... :alvarin: :alvarin:
Anyway - to continue...
Took a drive out to the sossusvlei and the dead vlei, I thought the deadvlei was better, swambo likes the sossusvlei - which had water in it !! not often that happens

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Had the first of many scorpions come visit in the camp - just a tip: they are attracted to light, so sitting chowing your dinner with a headlight on is not a good idea, cos the okies want to climb your leg to get in on the feast..

swambo bekuked herself...
Dont want to bore anyone so will skip the Walvis/Swakop mission - only to show the salt works in Walvis bay. Lekka colours around, but be prepared to get the cab salty and unhappy..

We ducked through Windhoek - with the obligatory stop at Joes Beerhouse - had the venison knuckle. About 1kg of kudu hindquarter....great stuff.
We then headed due south towards Mariental, but turned off on the C15 and then up another M road to camp at Bagatelle on the dunes. Very nice, with the campsites placed far apart and your own private shower, bodger box setup...swambo happy

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Spent the night there and then stocked up in Marientall, where they have the best SPAR in Namibia - best meat at the best price. From there I needed to get to the C15, and didnt want to backtrack 25 kliks, so punched in the next destination and just drove. It spat us out of Mariental on the M29, what a lovely isolated road....didnt see anyone for about 70 kliks..

We turned off the M29 and took a dune road to Gochas, the dune roads are very up and down...even my man boobies were bouncing up and down. At Gochas we turned right down the C15 to our next stop Red dunes campsite. Now Dr Piet (Oom) runs this farm, and whata lekka place. He is a champion, and his wife very nice too. They had a deep freeze full of Gemsbok steaks, springbok fillets and other venison things at a good price. He drives you about 3 kliks out into the dunes, and shows you to one of only three campsites. You will need low range to get to them
The bathroom is all outside under a tree, and the whole dune is yours.....people, go with me on this one, you have to stay here...

will continue the red dune story......

[OOOOMS]

Need these red dune co-ords pleeeeeeez

[jacques kotze]

Need these red dune co-ords pleeeeeeez

Send those co-ords please, I'm staying in Gochas for a few nights, so I would really like to check it out.

[Mud Dog]

Great read and pics so far James!!

[Andre du preez]

Baie mooi

[mushroom]

Gents, the co-ords for Red Dunes
25 07' 48.07"S
18 56' 58.39"E
GO on to google earth and check it out
Will try and finish the report tonite - otherwise tomorrow evening

[mushroom]

One cannot forget the red dune toilet area - which is for your exclusive use. Probably the best setting for a morning constitution that a man could ever want...check it out...

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So hen we head off down the C15 towards Mata mata. Stop at the Kalahari bush lodge, and pick up some really good Gemsbok billo's for R160/kg - well worth the spend..
Get to the border post and see massive wood pile with a sign saying " N$ 8 balle" - I think to myself this is the best priced wood in the whole country. Big burly Nam customs dude comes strolling over to check vehicle and passport...
"Howzit my man, any chance I can but some of your cheap wood there?"
"ehhhhhh, NO, you must take your wood off of the veeehical"...oh sherbet....they confiscate ALL firewood, only for sale if your going into Nam. Lucky I only had a half bag on the roof. The newly wed dude and his new wife in the Hilux next to me have two BEEEEG mielie bags of wood...."Off the wood please sir"..I thought I saw a tear trickling down the poor okes face as I drove into the Kgalagadi Park...
Anyhows, mata mata, lots of game. Saw this old man with some porcupine quills stuck in his mane

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Lekka campsite

Saw lots of game, but its always the small things that make any trip into a game reserve, this poor okes horn went on its own mission, but he seems to be grooving along irrespective..

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For those who have been in the Kalahari, and been treated to the chorus of the barking gecko's, with the help of a ranger I eventually found one. Little buggers relative to the noise they make.

After 6 nights in the park we head out and due east to Van Zyls (the plan was to do the border road from the gate, but time was not on our side)

Then took some back roads east, and after about 190 kliks stumbled across a cattle auction in the bush. Toyota country this is...

Got to McCartys rest and then took the border track east along the Botswana border. The road is good when on the river bed, but turns in every klik or so over the dunes, deep soft, red sand. Didnt see a soul - perfect....

[mushroom]

That was the "river" road, heres one of the "dune"road

Got to Molopo game reserve. What a great place. Cos its so bloody far, hardly anyone goes there. We were one of two campers in the place, and we saw the other okes once. Real bush solitude, you cant beat that. The tracks through the reserve are very sandy, and this gave swambo the chance to hone up her low range skills (after learning how ot lock the wheels !! )

Driving around this reserve is just lekka...

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The campsites are placed far from each other - as long as you can camp in sites # 9 and upwards.

And after two nights here peoples, we had to head our way back to Krugersdorp. Will never forget this trip,....ever. Now to decide whether its Botswana, or Northern Namibia next year...mmmm, at least it lekka to have choices in life...
Mushroom signing off, adios

[OOOOMS]

Very, very nice

Tx for the great report and lovely pics :wink2:

[jacques kotze]

Thanks for the co-ords, will check it out

[Elize]

Molopo Game Reserve? Wat het jul betaal vir kampering? :)

Sal beslis volgende keer Red Sand onthou. Dit klink en lyk pragtig.

[mushroom]

Hi Elize,

Molopo was R60 pppn and then a R25 per person park fee. Really reasonable and well worth it
Kids are cheaper if they are under 12yrs

[Haboob]

Nice report James

[Dodging]

I think you just helped me plan next year's holiday


Great read

[Jingo73]

9/10 for reporting skills. Lyk baie lekker

[Wegbreek]

Nice report and thank you for sharing.

[Racing snake]

Brilliant report, James. Only problem is next time all the campsites will look like the cattle auction. Realy enjoyed the pics, thanks.

[Elize]

Baie dankie. Gaan beslis Molopo onthou as ons Februarie Kgalagadi en Mabua besoek. Is nogal op pad huistoe.

[OOOOMS]

Baie dankie. Gaan beslis Molopo onthou as ons Februarie Kgalagadi en Mabua besoek. Is nogal op pad huistoe.

Hi Elize, sorry to forward this bad news to you but we passed Molopo 7 days ago, nice small park, however seems the 'management' were fast asleep and the cleaning staff were all on leave....for weeks before we arrived.

The ablutions were so disgusting one could not enter the area...........

Hope they sort this out quickly...sadly only in ZA.....