Sorry for keeping you hanging like this. This first couple of days back at the office has been a bit hectic.
The Last Stretch – Malealea and Coffee bay ( Via Lundean’s Nek)
Anyway … So we say goodbye to the luxuries of Ramabantha and head down to Malealea. Due to our decision to try our luck at some fly fishing, we only departed at lunchtime, but we were lucky enough to have met a group of people that did our exact route, just in the opposite direction and from their reports the road to Malealea is nothing to worry about and will take roughly two and a half hours.
Their report wasn’t far off and three hours later we checked into Malealea. The landscapes of Southeastern Lesotho are totally different to that of where we have just come from. One gets the feeling of being in typical Drakensberg area. There is no more treacherous mountain passes to cross and the potholes seem to have been filled here and there.
Malealea is a very nice camp. Similar to Ramabantha, electricity is supplied by a generator from 18:00 – 22:00. We didn’t experience the campsites to be quite as nice as Ramabantha, the boma and ablutions didn’t offer the same level of cleanliness. However, we found that they have made two, two-plate gas stoves as well as a few condiments available, which we thought was a nice touch. Besides camping, Malealea offers a range of accommodation possibilities such as Forest huts, Basotho huts and Chalets, each in a different price category.
There is curio shop and a well-stocked bar and a small coffee shop.
The highlight of our tour through Lesotho was definitely the pony trek down to Botsoela waterfall.
We couldn’t believe how strong and surefooted these ponies were. Uphill just lean forward in your saddle and downhill lean back and these ponies will take you to and fro without any incident. We traversed the slopes down into the valley and crisscrossed the river a few times. The path then takes you uphill again to the top of the waterfall. It is here where one dismounts your four legged friend. After a short hike you’re standing at the feet of this magnificent waterfall. Don’t expect to see the Victoria Falls, it’s a very modest fall, but don’t take anything from it either, it is beautiful and the cool mountain stream offers welcome relief after the two hour trip on pony back. We packed a few eats and had ourselves a lovely picnic while sitting in the cool water. Like with anywhere in Lesotho, money is a scarce commodity amongst the rural locals. There were a couple of kids around the falls offering a guide down to the falls and at the falls itself we encountered the “Local Band” who provided entertainment. We were told by our pony guide that it is customary to show gratitude for services rendered in financial terms, but not to overdo it because they also don’t want to create a culture of begging or greed.
On the way back I had the chance to let my pony stretch her legs a bit and galloped about one third of the way back to the stables. Well, all I can say is WOW, not only does these ponies know how to climb these mountains, but they’ve got some speed to. I must be honest, our guide told me that my pony, Sophia, was already ten years old, so I didn’t want to push her too hard, but even at that ripe old age, she was still more than willing. The rest of day was spent in the curio shop and we enjoyed a few ice cold Maluti’s again followed by a well-deserved afternoon nap.
The following day marked the end of our stay in the Kingdom In The Sky and shortly after breakfast we were on the road again heading for Tele Bridge border post. Once again, the road was in good condition (or maybe by now we were so conditioned to dodge the potholes that it seemed normal), we travelled at an average of 80km/h, or whatever the speed limit was. On the way one passes through Mafeteng. This is the second largest town, after Maseru, that we passed through. We noticed a Shoprite and most ATM’s from banks also available in SA. Mohale’s Hoek is closer to Butha-Buthe in size and only offers the bare minimum. The very last few kilometers to Tele Bridge is a bumpy gravel road, but can be managed in a sedan, if one goes slowly.
Arriving at the border post we were overwhelmed by the idea that we are about to return to SA. Even though Lesotho is very beautiful, one quickly realizes the value of being an SA citizen, but another surprise awaits us. When we presented our passports at the immigration desk, the two female officials mumbled something in seSotho and gave both my wife and I the beady eye with an expression on their faces of “You’re in big trouble.” They then informed us that we only have one stamp in our passports instead of two. It then dawned on us that when the lady at the Lesotho side of Caledonspoort asked us if we had our passports stamped, she meant that we needed to have it stamped again at Lesotho side’s immigration desk as well, which we didn’t do. With some very friendly smiles and pleading total ignorance we managed to convince them not to send us to the SA Embassy in Maseru and they stamped our passports and we were off.
This was a very scary moment and we suddenly realized how lucky we were that our passports weren’t checked at any of the nine roadblocks where we were stopped. You can only imagine the relief when we crossed the river and finally and officially entered SA again. This also illustrated how easily a mistake like this can happen which could result in dream holiday ending up in total disaster. Please remember to have your passports stamped on both sides of the border at the immigration office/desk.
We arrived in Sterkpruit where we quickly filled up with diesel and we were left with a quick decision on planning the next stretch of our route: We are heading for Coffee Bay via Barkly East. We have one of two choices; 240km of tar road or 199km gravel road via Lundean’s pass. My wife’s words was: “Let’s take the gravel road, surely it can’t be worse than the road between Thaba-Tseka and Katse dam”, so I quickly stopped to lock the freewheel hubs, engaged 4H and off we went. The road up to Lundean’s Nek village wasn’t too bad. Up to this point we still encountered a minibus taxi every now and then. It is after Lundean’s Nek village that things started to get a little more interesting. Not too much further I decided not to labour the engine, gearbox and clutch so I engaged third gear 4L which proved to be a very comfortable driving arrangement for both the Lux and passengers, taking the terrain into account. We drove the pass and really enjoyed the scenery. The pass follows a river valley and it was interesting to think that Lesotho lies just on the other side of the river. The terrain was challenging, but I would be of the opinion that a 4x2 or SUV would be able to cross the pass without much difficulty (considering that we drove this route in summer, no rains or winter snow. I can imagine that this road can turn very ugly when wet or covered in snow sludge), the option of low range just made it so much easier.
Along the way we were suddenly faced with a closed farm gate which posed a bit of a What The Frikkedel moment, but there is satellite police station there and we were soon informed that we are still on the correct road heading for Barkly East. Soon after this we crossed a small stream where we quickly stopped for some very welcome relief from the heat. A little way further a farmer offered to quickly refill our flasks with some fresh mountain water.
This is skiing territory and we drove past the turnoff towards Tiffindell Ski Resort. The rest of the road up to Barkly East went by without incident. The route from Sterkspruit to Barkly East (Via Lundeans Pass) took us just shy of six hours to complete the 199km.
Next stop Elliot; upon our arrival in this well organized little town, we quickly did some shopping at the local Shoprite and we were pleased not to have to pay the exorbitant prices of Lesotho any longer.
From Elliot to Coffee Bay we drove through Mthatha and were soon reminded how the taxis in SA just do what they want. We arrived in Coffee Bay just before ten o’clock that evening. There is road works underway to improve the section from the N2 down to Coffee Bay, but when travelling this route, it is still necessary to drive very carefully as this road is riddled with potholes as well.
We were very disappointed with the accommodation at Philda’s Place and checked into the Coffee Bay campsite the very next day. The campsite is awesome! Every single site is just about secluded and one camp under a continuous canopy of Milkwood trees and at only R80pppn real value for money. Clean ablutions with hot showers and if you ask nicely, the owners might even help with freezer space in the office at the gate. We took a drive down to Hole In The Wall and even got some fishing in. Coffee Bay is very pretty and definitely warrants a visit at least once. The only criticism that we had is that this is a very poor part of our country and unemployment is rife. We were offered anything from beaded necklaces and bracelets to a wide variety of illegal substances. People offer guided tours to popular fishing spots, washing clothing or dishes or just plain begging around every corner and at some point it just got a bit much. Other than that, it’s really pretty and peaceful if you are well armed against the mosquitos.
Coffee Bay Marked the end of road trip and on the 6th of January we headed back to the fairest Cape. It was a truly remarkable trip with some unexpected (some nice, some not so nice) adventures. We will certainly return to Lesotho, but this time armed with some firsthand experience to make planning the next trip so much easier.
All-in-all we drove 5231km and used 748 liters of diesel. On this trip camping was most certainly the best way to explore our country (and Lesotho) on a shoestring budget. Having your own tent with your own bed and bedding also offered familiar surrounds in an unfamiliar location. In general we found the campsites to be well equipped and comfortable.
Some Tips on Lesotho
Before we headed for Lesotho I really tried my best to find information on Lesotho, but info is spread very thinly and things like “Prepare for the unexpected” just wasn’t good enough for me. So here are some of the lessons we learned during our stay.
• Don’t plan your trip with the same speeds in mind compared to SA. Work on a maximum of 40km/h and plan your next destination accordingly.
• Some extra equipment like a puncture repair kit, an inverter and a good tyre compressor came in very handy on our trip and I will highly recommend it.
• If at all possible, take an extra spare wheel with. It could have made life a lot simpler for us anyway.
• Diesel was fairly available on the route that we took. You will find diesel in almost every “major” town. (Map Studio sells a very detailed map of Lesotho and it proved to be invaluable on our trip)
• Diesel is slightly cheaper in Lesotho than in SA
• When approaching a roadblock, stop in line with the stop sign and wait to be called.
• Always wear your seatbelt.
• Always have some canned food with you and warm clothing or blankets in case you have to overnight next to the road. This is very unlikely, but a necessary precaution.
• The border crossings are hassle free. Just remember to have your passports stamped on both sides of the border.
• There is a maximum duty free allowance to take some of your own food with you. We were unaware of this and it ended up costing us dearly. The same applies to alcohol, although you will find it very difficult to explain those three cases of Whiskey, three cases of Brandy and six cases of Castle Lager as personal consumption. So take it easy and stay within reason.
• The Basotho people believe that tourists take their pictures and sell it in their home countries for millions. It is regarded fair to expect a small compensation for photographs. Just don’t overdo it. Five or Ten Maluti or SA Rand is sufficient.
• Throwing sweets for the kids is discouraged. One of the hosts at one of campsites said jokingly; “Dentists are not really an available profession around here.”
• We didn’t encounter any stone throwing.
• We found the Basotho people to be, generally, friendly, but do not take chances. Keep your vehicle locked and valuables in a safe place.