Kagalagadi, Central Kalahari, Okavango Delta, Orange River

GI Jane · Post by **GI Jane** » Sat Mar 30, 2013 2:37 pm

Still just trying to gather my wits since arriving back from my trip.... But here goes..

Departed Cape Town a day later than expected due to a mother of all stomach bugs picked up at the extreme 4x4 challenge the weekend before... Anyway my trusty Hilux found its way quite successfully to the Orange River where I was meeting up with Hennie... still was'nt even sure I was fit enough to do the trip, but fortunately by Friday morning departure had recovered fully... so we loaded the Cruiser and made our way to meet up with the rest of the group at Malopo lodge. Had read a few bad reports on Malopo and unfortunately, they were quite correct. Place is getting pretty rundown and whatever you do, don't order the lamb chops for dinner, they were terrible... 800gram T bone is the way to go. We would probably stay at some alternative place next time around..

Next morning 2 Cruisers and Vigo left for Mata Mata our next stop.. Checked in at Twee Rivieren and sorted out our passports for our crossing into Bots. Officials friendly but slow.... It was very, very dry in Kagalagadi and still lots of dead carcasses around from the animals that died there recently... Saw a wide variety of animals and birds on route to the camp. Mata Mata was quite busy.

Next morning we saw a family of bat eared foxes. a bit camera shy. Further down the road we got a Cheetah and 3 cubs, unfortunately, too far away for good shots with a 400mm lens. There was a guy there with a shot-out bakkie and a 800mm lens (priorities,priorities), was ready to swop the cruiser for the lens and bakkie but Hennie was'nt buying into that... Darn..

The road to Mabuasehube was easy going, we did'nt even use 4x4, just a bit of soft sand here and there... Met a couple of Hilux's coming the wrong way on the 'twee spoor'.. We stopped over a night at Matopi camp on the way. Was great to be in the bush away from crowds at Mata...

Okay think I need to find some photo's

GI Jane · Post by **GI Jane** » Sat Mar 30, 2013 2:54 pm

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This is where a 800mm lens would have worked

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and here

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GI Jane · Post by **GI Jane** » Sat Mar 30, 2013 3:05 pm

Oh and we disturbed this guys breakfast... for bird enthusiasts, a falcon of some sort (I think)

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Our campsite at Matopi camp

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GI Jane · Post by **GI Jane** » Sat Mar 30, 2013 3:29 pm

From Matopi onto Mabuasehube. It was very, very dry everywhere... only 2 of the camps had a bit of water... We saw lots of lion and hyena spoor but after driving to all the pans the best we got were a bateleur with 2 little ones, cape vulture, another family of bat eared foxes, jackals, and a few other bird species... we did have a visit during the night from a brown hyena. Not sure which of the camps we stayed at for a couple of nights but it was relatively empty at all of the camps, in spite of us being told that the camps were fully booked.. Only 2 of the camps had some water, so it is safer to make sure that you carry sufficient water for showers etc... roads were still good enough not to engage 4x4...

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GI Jane · Post by **GI Jane** » Sat Mar 30, 2013 3:45 pm

We spent 3 nights in Mabua. The dirt road out of Mabuasehube towards Kang had some pretty thick sand. We drove to Ghanzi and booked into Thakadu camp for 2 nights. We wanted to do some shopping, refill water and diesel for the trek into Central Kalahari... Was great to have some proper showers and toilets for a few nights. We were all taking turns to cook dinners, which worked out really well. A variety of meals and a couple of nights off deciding what to cook... Fillet steak in Ghanzi is R52 per kilo., vegetables are not that great, look like they are on there way out, but the Spar and Choppies had almost everything you need. There is quite a lot of game at the camp we stayed at, and a waterhole alongside the pub and dining room, which is quite handy..

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GI Jane · Post by **GI Jane** » Sat Mar 30, 2013 4:24 pm

From Ghanzi we continued on the A3 to just before the vet fence and turned right to drive along it into Central Kalahari... We stayed at Tau Pan for 3 nights, and spent the days driving between the dry pans. ... clouds would build up during the day but no rain. We had a rainbow late one afternoon, and also some lightning in the distance one night. We saw lots of giraffe, springbok, gemsbok, kudu, malibu storks, smaller antelope, ground squirrels, great variety of falcons, hawks, eagles.. we heard lion and hyena at night, but in spite of finding very fresh spoor the next morning we could not find them in the long grass and bush. On our last night at Tau we decided to change our route and head towards some water. The planned drive to Xada and Xaka would be 2 long days of driving on very bad roads, so we spent the last night in Central at Motopi pan and then headed for the Okavango Delta..

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I think they are the most unattractive birds I've ever seen, but they did entertain us for hours at the waterhole..

ROOFER · Post by **ROOFER** » Sat Mar 30, 2013 4:30 pm

Welcome back & thanks for the pics, looks like you had a swell time

GI Jane · Post by **GI Jane** » Sat Mar 30, 2013 5:09 pm

We drove back out to the crossing at the Kuke vet fence turned left at Sehitwa and headed for Drotsy's cabin on the Okavango, and the sounds of running water, hippo, fish eagle and a swarms of mosquito... 150 mosquito bites later,a good shower, meal and sleep, we headed for Mahangu and the Namibian border and Ngepe camp..... We stayed there for 3 nights and did daily trips to Mahangu.. There were lots of animals and a large variety birds around the water. Buffalo, elephant, letchwe, roan antelope, kudu, springbok, impala, crocs, etc..... Final overnight stop on the way back to the Orange River was Windhoek and Joe's pub for a good dinner.... and then on towards Vioolsdrif the next day...

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Fluit, fluit, my storie is uit....

GI Jane · Post by **GI Jane** » Sat Mar 30, 2013 5:11 pm

ROOFER wrote:Welcome back & thanks for the pics, looks like you had a swell time

Thanks Charl, am still trying to get used to city life, and yes it was a great time....

Hoppy · Post by **Hoppy** » Sat Mar 30, 2013 6:57 pm

Very good pics, is it a Nikon?

GI Jane · Post by **GI Jane** » Sat Mar 30, 2013 7:05 pm

Hee hee,,,, funny guy

Hoppy · Post by **Hoppy** » Sat Mar 30, 2013 7:28 pm

: three smileys.gif (49.59 KiB) Viewed 6532 times

Post by **Family_Dog** » Sat Mar 30, 2013 8:35 pm

Excellent photos and trip report Val. Loved that lightning shot - guess what my new desktop pic now is! :)

-F_D

Post by **Mud Dog** » Sun Mar 31, 2013 12:55 am

Nice to see you're back safe!

Great pics ...... (so far)

Ou Legend · Post by **Ou Legend** » Sun Mar 31, 2013 8:34 am

Lyk baie lekker,watse kamera het jy gebruik,mooi fotos.

GI Jane · Post by **GI Jane** » Sun Mar 31, 2013 9:01 am

Thanks guys. Took about 6000 photo's and don't want to bore you with too many photo's. I used a Canon 7D and 5Dmkiii, with a variety off lenses. Lightning shot I did on Bulb for about 3 min. Not too big on bird photography but got some good bird shots. Ellies were aggressive and charged us a couple of times, so we had to keep the vehicle running so we could get away.. it was tricky to avoid camera shake using a bean bag resting on the window. Marabou stork we watched for ages, what ugly birds, but so amusing and entertaining...

Post by **Haboob** » Sun Mar 31, 2013 11:47 am

Once again, great pics Val & welcome home

GI Jane · Post by **GI Jane** » Sun Mar 31, 2013 5:45 pm

Thanks...

swartvark · Post by **swartvark** » Mon Apr 01, 2013 7:48 am

Thanks for sharing VAL!!!!!
Stunning pics.

GI Jane · Post by **GI Jane** » Mon Apr 01, 2013 9:27 am

Thanks Tiaan, Long time no see... hope you and Muis are well..

Aquanaut · Post by **Aquanaut** » Mon Apr 01, 2013 7:59 pm

Hi, we are planning our Botswana trip for June, but after reading some of the recommended books on Botswana, I see that they insist on pre-booking and pre- payment for all camping and Lodges, even prebooking to travel through some of the parks. I was hoping to do a similar trip through Botswana as we did in Namibia a year ago, where did not book for anything at all. That was the best trip where you aren't tied down by bookings. If you like a place, you stay an extra couple of nights or if you don't like the place, you leave the next morning.
Is this possible to do in Botswana?
We are planning to enter at Serowe, travel up to Francistown, bhuku island, Maun, Okovango Delta up to Kasana, trip to Vic Falls and return via the Hunters road back to Francis town and depending on days left, where we go from there is a thumb suck.
Any assistance would be appreciated.
Loved your photos.
Basil

Hoppy · Post by **Hoppy** » Mon Apr 01, 2013 10:01 pm

I don't do pre-booking either, works for me, you get bumped out if those tour-buses or trucks arrive even if you paid

Post by **CasKru** » Tue Apr 02, 2013 6:53 am

Thanks for the trip report and pichas.....Seems like an awesome trip.

My favourite fodie....

O... and welcome back

GI Jane · Post by **GI Jane** » Tue Apr 02, 2013 7:47 am

Hey Cassie, Thanks, Yip it was great fun...

Basil the booking system in Botswana is a bit crazy.... In my experience when you phone to book one is told the place is fully booked but when you get there, there is no-one around. The way I understand it is this.... People phone and book and are told to pay a deposit... they don't pay the deposit but no-one checks it so the booking remains intact, unlike Sanparks, where you're booking is immediately cancelled. Last year when we went to Chobe we tried to book for Savuti from here, were told it as fully booked, in Maun we went to the Park office in town and managed to get a campsite right on the Savuti channel. Mabua and Central was somewhat the same. We were told certain pans were fully booked, when we got there no-one was at the campsites. Only problem can be that communications between the main booking office and the Reserve gate are often not working so when you get to the gate they say that according to their records the sites are booked and it is normally a mission to get in... I think that if you avoid silly season ie the busiest seasons, you can get accommodation. Possibly better to go to Parks offices in a town and find out from them if there is space available.... There are also a lot of camps on the outskirts of reserves and you can do day drives, but my understanding is that a lot of people are finding Bots quite expensive now and tourism is down a bit. We have never had a problem getting accommodation anywhere so far when we arrived at a place..

Aquanaut · Post by **Aquanaut** » Tue Apr 02, 2013 9:14 am

Thanks Val. What is the procedure when traveling through parks to get to your destination, do you have to preboook your through trip as well or do you just drive through like normal?
Basil

GI Jane · Post by **GI Jane** » Tue Apr 02, 2013 10:46 am

Aquanaut wrote:Thanks Val. What is the procedure when traveling through parks to get to your destination, do you have to preboook your through trip as well or do you just drive through like normal?
Basil

Not sure exactly what you mean, but eg. When we went to Kagalagadi and Mabua, we booked and paid for the availlable campsites for the nights we intended staying. But when we got to our campiste at Mabua it was in a bad way, a few meters away was another empty campsite that was in much better condition. We went back to the camp office to ask if we could move to the better campsite, communications between main office and park was not working. We moved to the other camp for 3 days and no one arrived at all for the supposed booked camp... Central the same thing, when we asked if we could move to another pan that had some water, was told it was booked, attempts were made to contact central booking, no communications, we saw one other vehicle in the park the entire 5 days we were there and all campsites other than 1 were empty... so, not sure what is the best way to go about it other than what we did... Maybe there are other members with some better ideas. Found the parks offices in Maun pretty good. Must say the Bots people in my experience are very friendly and helpful and tend to make an effort to help where they can, just the communication network between main offices and parks are bad...

mushroom · Post by **mushroom** » Tue Apr 02, 2013 1:38 pm

Hey Val,

Welcome back, very lekka piks by the way

in your opinion was this better than last years moremi,savuti trip??

Basil, I would have to agree with Val....Bots bookings can be a ball ache, and most frustrating when you struggled to get in, only to find youre the only people "in". The operators offices in Maun (near the airport) are your best bet. We rocked up with a couple of nights unbooked, and by the time we left Maun we were in !!

Personally, I would not shift camp without clearing it with the blokes at the gate/reception - you dont want to drop camp late in the arvo cos the real occupants rocked up...

MOFASA · Post by **MOFASA** » Tue Apr 02, 2013 2:27 pm

AWSUM Pics Val

Thunder02 · Post by **Thunder02** » Tue Apr 02, 2013 2:39 pm

Great pics Val,glad you are home safe

,looking at those pics makes me all excited for our trip

Doing more or less the same route,5 vehicle convoy.

Post by **CasKru** » Tue Apr 02, 2013 3:04 pm

Thunder02 wrote:Great pics Val,glad you are home safe ,looking at those pics makes me all excited for our trip
Doing more or less the same route,5 vehicle convoy.

You mean 4 vehicles and one big a55 4 wheel trailer....

Thunder02 · Post by **Thunder02** » Tue Apr 02, 2013 5:49 pm

CasKru wrote:
Thunder02 wrote:Great pics Val,glad you are home safe ,looking at those pics makes me all excited for our trip
Doing more or less the same route,5 vehicle convoy.

You mean 4 vehicles and one big a55 4 wheel trailer....

GI Jane · Post by **GI Jane** » Tue Apr 02, 2013 8:41 pm

This trip was really great and very different from Moremi/ Chobe one but equally good.... I could go back to both. We missed out on Khutsi because the drive from Central was too long. We drove a lot including the game drives and decided that it would be great to take a break from it for a few days... We met guys in Ghanzi that had spent about 8 or 10 days in central, but that is a lot of water, fuel and stuff to cart in for that long. They were very equipped, all Landcruisers and 4x4 trailers. They carried something like 300 something litres of fuel with them... They saw lion, leopard and cheetah, but you have to stick around for them and also get up early and drive in the direction of the night roars. We picked up a lot of fresh tracks, but once they leave the road and head into the bush you just can't see them. The cruiser I travelled in had a roof flap, and even when almost sitting on the roof of the vehicle I could not see them.... Anyway if there was a vehicle leaving tomorrow I would be in it.... But aaaah the fuel prices.... not good...

And I agree it is a risk just going to an empty camp in case people arrive.. We did clear it up with the gate first, and they eventually agreed in spite of not getting through to the central office, but they told us we would have to move back to our original site if other people arrived. Fortunately no one did pitch...

Aquanaut · Post by **Aquanaut** » Tue Apr 02, 2013 9:11 pm

Hi Val & James, thanks for the info.
The maps and booklets that we have for planning our trip, all indicate that entrance / access fees to the various National Parks have to be prebooked and paid for before arrival, this also applies to vehicles who are only passing through a park on their way to another destination. So when we leave Maun to go to Kasana, we have to pass through two parks, even if we aren't camping in those parks, we have to pay an entrance fee.
Apparently the Botswana Parks work on a minimum tourist impact model, charge more to compensate for less tourists, this is to keep the impact on the enviroment at a low level. That is why their charges are expensive and their camps are always "fully booked"even when they are not.
This is the info we have read in a book published by a regular off road enthusiast, and was confirmed by friends who run a lodge near the S.A border.
I don't believe that a country would implement such a stupid model, surely tourism must be one of their biggest income generators, but I am no longer surprised at what happens in Africa.
So if anyone has been through the parks and had to pay entrance and exit fees, I would like to be prepared for this before we leave. We plan to avoid the parks campsites and hopefully camp on or in campsites run by private farm owners and rather do the daily trips into the Okavango etc.
Basil

GI Jane · Post by **GI Jane** » Wed Apr 03, 2013 10:35 am

The way I understand it, Botswana are attempting to phase out self drive element of tourism and are encouraging fly in fly out safaris, thereby ensuring the local population of employment as guides etc. and minimising the impact of lots of vehicles on their roads. There has been a lot of bad publicity about irresponsible self driving tourists some warranted and maybe some of it exaggerated. Most camps only allow access to local registered guides, and fees are high for private tourists, to hit you hardest where it hurts most, your pocket. Such is life....

mushroom · Post by **mushroom** » Wed Apr 03, 2013 10:50 am

Basil, the Bots Gov have implemented the decongestion policy in Chobe - cos thats where it is really needed. There is just too much traffic (day trippers) in that park as a result of the location relative to Kasane and all of its lodges. As for Moremi and Savuti, there they havent implemented anything for two reasons. It is quite remote (certainly Savuti !!) for any day trippers to "pop in". Moremi is not far from Maun but seems quiter than Chobe, as there are generally less tourists in Maun, hence no need to limit the tourist numbers.

For the ultimate solitude, nothing beats Khutse or CK (I havent been into CK yet - only to Khutse). As for the DWNP prepaying - they have a lekka little office in Maun, where you can prebook/prepay all of your entrance fees. While you are in town, try and see if you can get a night or two at Savuti/Third bridge/Xakanaxa/North gate etc... theres a bloody good chance that you will have some luck

(dont forget to try Linyanti - its off the beaten track and may have some space - failing which there are some lekka little cutlines between Ngoma bridge and the Savuit gate where you could pull off into the bush and camp

)

When are you planning to go up? PM me with your dates - I might know someone who can help you with camp sites...

Aquanaut · Post by **Aquanaut** » Wed Apr 03, 2013 7:41 pm

mushroom wrote:Basil, the Bots Gov have implemented the decongestion policy in Chobe - cos thats where it is really needed. There is just too much traffic (day trippers) in that park as a result of the location relative to Kasane and all of its lodges. As for Moremi and Savuti, there they havent implemented anything for two reasons. It is quite remote (certainly Savuti !!) for any day trippers to "pop in". Moremi is not far from Maun but seems quiter than Chobe, as there are generally less tourists in Maun, hence no need to limit the tourist numbers.

For the ultimate solitude, nothing beats Khutse or CK (I havent been into CK yet - only to Khutse). As for the DWNP prepaying - they have a lekka little office in Maun, where you can prebook/prepay all of your entrance fees. While you are in town, try and see if you can get a night or two at Savuti/Third bridge/Xakanaxa/North gate etc... theres a bloody good chance that you will have some luck (dont forget to try Linyanti - its off the beaten track and may have some space - failing which there are some lekka little cutlines between Ngoma bridge and the Savuit gate where you could pull off into the bush and camp )

When are you planning to go up? PM me with your dates - I might know someone who can help you with camp sites...

Thanks James and Val.
We are planning for the 14th of June to the 29th, I know it is a short time, but that is all that I can afford to be away from my business. So we are trying to see as many of the good spots on the way.
Thanks again.
Basil

Post by **Haboob** » Wed Apr 03, 2013 8:12 pm

Basil, Last time I was there you paid the exorbitant fee for the day spent in the park. The camping fee is minimum, so getting through the gate to Savuti is where you pay. If you get to the campsite & ask for camping space, then you pay a few Pula p/p, but remember that you have to be out by 11:00 the next morning otherwise you pay for an extra day...

Aquanaut · Post by **Aquanaut** » Thu Apr 04, 2013 12:46 pm

Thanks Guys for all the info and help

GI Jane · Post by **GI Jane** » Thu Apr 04, 2013 1:34 pm

No problem Basil... Just found a card for the Khwai Development Trust.... There is a camp that is much less expensive ie no park fees, than Moremi and Chobe, if you look at T4A maps and you follow the road from Maun passed Moremi entrance gate, and go on to Mababe, turn right onto the transit road you will see a few campsite the Khwai Development Trust campsites. Contact person Fredrick Galebonwe email address fgalebonwe@gmail.com. not sure if they have a website but their email address is khwai@botsnet.bw. Offices are right next door to the Botswana wildlife offices in Maun... Total wild camping ie no facilities, and wild, as in sharing your campiste with a wide range of animals including, elephant, spotted hyena, honeybadgers, hippo, lion etc, and lots of them... not for the faint hearted... but very affordable... on the river, I think one can cross it from Moremi if the river is low, but we drove around... If you don't manage to get into one of the campsites at Moremi, there is a campsite outside the park called Mankwe, just passed Sankuyo, also a bit of a cr...y road to travel backwards and forwards if you stay there, but an option...

mushroom · Post by **mushroom** » Thu Apr 04, 2013 2:06 pm

Good thinking Val, I had forgotten about Mogotho - I can vouch for the Mogotho camp (kwhai community camp)

very very lekka campsite - massive area and miles of space between the sites. Awesome little game drive along the kwhai river too, but as Val says, dont venture too far away from the camp once the sun goes down, and stash all stuff up on the roof or in the cab - them hyenas are trixie little bastards

If I recall they were also quite cheap - about P60 p/p/n - but there is squat there in the way of amenities. Basil, see if you can get into South gate, and then Mogotho. This was from south gate you can do your day trips around the southern bit of Moremi - possibly up to 3rd bridge, mboma island etc.. and then do a full day trip (very relaxed) up to north gate. from north gate to Magotho is probably 40 mins incl the river crossing

check this out: viewtopic.php?f=4&t=27646

Aquanaut · Post by **Aquanaut** » Fri Apr 05, 2013 2:38 pm

I have included those recommendations into our planning session this weekend, this will be a great help. And yes, that is what I am looking for, wild animals in and around our camp site, that is the reason why we are going there, isn't it??
Thanks again,
Basil

African Adventures · Post by **African Adventures** » Tue Apr 09, 2013 10:38 am

Hi GI Jane,
Looks like an awesome trip.

I would like to publish your write up and picture in our magazine.

If I can use the article, can you please send it to me in a word document with the pictures (1mb or bigger per picture) to cobus@africanadventures.co.za

Cobus Steyl
Director - African Adventures
http://www.africanadventures.co.za" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
083 644 4554
012 661 0034

Bushcrazy · Post by **Bushcrazy** » Tue Apr 09, 2013 11:51 am

Congratulations on a very good report. We have also been in the previous week in the Central Kalahari Park and Moremi area's. We have prebooked to visit Nxai Pans but local persons in Maun adviced us rather to change the Nxai Pans to Third Bridge as it is extremely dry in Nxai Pans.

We didn't have any problems at the gate to enter Third Bridge but they also didn't know about the change and had to phone to Maun for clarity.

I will try to get our trip posted in the next few days.

jamiel · Post by **jamiel** » Tue Apr 09, 2013 12:47 pm

LEKKE

GI Jane · Post by **GI Jane** » Tue Apr 09, 2013 3:08 pm

Bushcrazy wrote:Congratulations on a very good report. We have also been in the previous week in the Central Kalahari Park and Moremi area's. We have prebooked to visit Nxai Pans but local persons in Maun adviced us rather to change the Nxai Pans to Third Bridge as it is extremely dry in Nxai Pans.

We didn't have any problems at the gate to enter Third Bridge but they also didn't know about the change and had to phone to Maun for clarity.

I will try to get our trip posted in the next few days.

Did you guys get any rain in the Kalahari, have heard reports of wide spread rain and was wondering whether it made it to Central..

Andre du preez · Post by **Andre du preez** » Tue Apr 09, 2013 3:24 pm

Baie , mooi!!

Bushcrazy · Post by **Bushcrazy** » Tue Apr 09, 2013 4:45 pm

Hi Jane. No rain during our stay from 24/03/2013 up to 05/04/2013. On our way back to RSA we overnigh at Khuma Rhino Sanctuary and had some rain there. Most of the days in Central and hiher up we saw promising clouds gathering and some lighting far away. Friends of our have been in Kalagadi the same time and they had been rained out.

African Adventures · Post by **African Adventures** » Sun Jun 02, 2013 5:09 am

Article published in African Adventures Magazine as well as on the website!

Have a look at the article in the magazine by going to http://www.africanadventures.co.za/magazines" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; and reading the last edition or read the article by following this link.

Leaving your soul behind - http://t.co/SbRtiiukL9" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Anyone can subscribe on the website to receive the digital magazine free every month. The link is also on the website.

Thank you for the article

Cobus Steyl
Director - African Adventures
http://www.africanadventures.co.za" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
083 644 4554
012 661 0034

GI Jane · Post by **GI Jane** » Sun Jun 02, 2013 11:39 am

Thanks for publishing the article Cobus, have seen it...

arichardwilson · Post by **arichardwilson** » Wed Oct 01, 2014 1:53 pm

Hello GI Jane. I am planning to drive from Ghanzi to Tau Pan in February 2015. can you tell me how long it took you and how difficult the route please?
Best wishes,
Anthony

Hoppy · Post by **Hoppy** » Wed Oct 01, 2014 2:03 pm

Welcome on the forum, PM sent.